PRACTICAL 
GARDEN-BOOK 


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THE  GARDE! 


GIFT  OF 
Thomas   H.    Means 


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EDITED  BY  L.  H.  BAILEY 


THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 


THE 

PRACTICAL  GARDEN-BOOK 


CONTAINING  THE  SIMPLEST  DI SECTIONS 
FOE  THE  GROWING  OF  THE  COMMONEST 
THINGS  ABOUT  THE  HOUSE  AND  GARDEN 


BY 

C.  E.  HUNN 

\\ 
AND 

L.  H.  BAILEY 


FOURTH    EDITION 


gotfc 

THE     MACMILLAN     COMPANY 

LONDON  :    MACMILLAN  &  CO.,  LTD. 

1904 

All  rights  reserved 


XA 


I      r     __ 


V 


COPYRIGHT,  1900 
BY   THE    MACMILLAN    COMPANY 


Set  up  and  electrotyped  March,  1900 
Reprinted  February,  1901;  June,  1903,  and  June,  1904 


Iflnuitl 

J.  Horace  McFarland  Company 
Harrisburg,  Pennsylvania 


LIKE  the  love  of  music,  books  and  pictures, 
the  love  of  gardens  comes  with  culture  and  lei- 
sure and  with  the  ripening  of  the  home  life. 
The  love  of  gardens,  as  of  every  other  beautiful 
and  refining  thing,  must  increase  to  the  end  of 
time.  More  and  more  must  the  sympathies 
enlarge.  There  must  be  more  points  of  contact 
with  the  world.  Life  ever  becomes  richer. 
Gardening  is  more  than  the  growing  of  plants  : 
it  is  the  expression  of  desire. 

As  there  must  be  many  gardeners,  so  there 
must  be  many  books.  There  must  be  books  for 
different  persons  and  different  ideals.  The  gar- 
den made  by  one's  own  hands  is  always  the  best 
garden,  because  it  is  a  part  of  oneself.  A  gar- 
den made  by  another  may  interest,  but  it  is  an- 
other person's  individuality.  A  poor  garden  of 
one's  own  is  better  than  a  good  garden  in  which 
one  may  not  dig.  Many  a  poor  soul  has  more 
help  in  a  plant  in  the  window  than  another  has 
in  a  plantation  made  by  a  gardener. 

I  would  emphasize  the  home  garden,  made  by 
the  members  of  the  family.  I  would  preach  the 
beauty  of  the  common  plants  and  the  familiar 


VI  THE     PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

places.  These  things  are  never  old.  Many 
times  I  have  noted  how  intently  an  audience  of 
plant -lovers  will  listen  to  the  most  commonplace 
details  respecting  the  cultivation  of  plants  with 
which  they  have  been  always  familiar.  There 
was  nothing  new  in  what  they  heard  ;  but  they 
liked  to  have  the  old  story  told  over  again,  and 
every  detail  called  up  a  memory. 

The  same  questions  are  asked  every  year,  and 
they  always  will  be  asked, —  the  questions  about 
the  simplest  garden  operations.  Upon  this  de- 
sire for  commonplace  advice  the  horticultural 
journals  live.  A  journal  which  publishes  only 
things  that  are  new  would  find  little  support. 
Some  of  these  common  questions  I  have  tried  to 
answer  in  this  little  book.  I  wish  them  answered 
in  the  simple  and  direct  phrase  of  the  gardener. 
Therefore  I  asked  my  friend  C.  E.  Hunn,  gar- 
dener to  the  Horticultural  Department  of  Cornell 
University,  who  lives  with  plants,  to  wrrite  ad- 
vice for  one  who  would  make  a  garden  ;  and 
this  he  did  in  a  summer  vacation.  These  notes, 
edited  and  amplified,  now  make  this  book. 

L.  H.  BAILEY. 

HORTICULTURAL  DEPARTMENT, 

CORNELL  UNIVERSITY. 
ITHACA,  N.  Y.,  February  22,  1900. 


THE 
PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 


Abobra  viridiflora.    A  handsome  tender  climber 

with  tuberous  roots,  that  may  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and 
stored  in  a  cellar.  The  foliage  is  dark  and  glossy,  the  flow- 
ers small  and  inconspicuous ;  but  the  small  scarlet  fruits  are 
very  effective  in  contrast  to  the  leaves,  making  it  a  desirable 
screen  plant.  It  is  sold  by  seedsmen.  Seeds  sown  as  soon 
as  warm  weather  comes  will  give  plants  which  bloom  in  the 
open  (in  a  warm  soil  and  exposure),  and  which  reach  a 
height  of  5  8  ft.  It  is  sometimes  grown  as  a  glasshouse 
plant.  It  is  cucurbitaceous  (allied  to  melons  and  gourds). 

Abronia.  Californian  trailing  perennials,  but 
treated  as  hardy  annuals.  They  thrive  in  any  warm,  open  gar- 
den soil,  and  are  very  satisfactory  for  the  margins  of  beds  or 
borders.  The  little  flowers  are  borne  in  clusters.  A.  lati- 
folia  or  arenaria  (yellow)  and  A.  umbellata  or  grandiflora 
(pink)  are  the  leading  kinds.  Usually  sown  where  they 
are  to  bloom.  Peel  the  husk  off  the  seed  oefore  sowing. 

Abutilons,  or  FLOWERING  MAPLRS  as  they  are 

called  by  many,  make  fine  house  or  bedding  plants.  Com- 
mon kinds  may  be  grown  from  seed  or  from  cuttings  of 
young  wood.  If  the  former,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in 
February  or  March  in  a  temperature  of  not  less  than  60°. 
The  seedlings  should  be  potted  when  from  four  to  six  leaves 
have  grown,  in  a  rich,  sandy  soil.  Frequent  pottings  should 

A  (1) 


2  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

be  made  to  insure  a  rapid  growth,  making  plants  large 
enough  to  flower  by  fall.  Or,  the  seedlings  may  be  planted 
out  in  the  border  when  danger  of  frost  is  over,  and  taken  up 
in  the  fall  before  frost  :  these  plants  will  bloom  all  winter. 
About  one -half  of  the  newer  growth  should  be  cut  off  when 
they  are  taken  up,  as  they  are  very  apt  to  spindle  up  when 
grown  in  the  house.  When  grown  from  cuttings,  young 
wood  should  be  used,  which,  after  being  well  rooted,  may 
be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  seedlings. 
The  varieties  with  variegated  leaves  have  been 
improved  until  the  foliage  effects  are  equal  to 
the  flowers  of  some  varieties;  and,  these  are  a 
great  addition  to  the  conservatory  or  window 
garden.  The  staple  spotted -leaved  type  is  A. 
Thompsoni.  A  compact  form,  now  much  used 
for  bedding  and  other  outdoor  work,  is  Savitzii, 
Abutiion  striatum  which  is  a  horticultural  variety,  not  a  distinct 
species.  The  old-fashioned  green-leaved  A.  striatum,  from 
which  A.  Thonpsoni  has  probably  sprung,  is  one  of  the 
best.  A.  megapotamicum  or  vcxillarium  is  a  trailing  or 
drooping  red-and-yellow-flowered  species,  which  is  excel- 
lent for  baskets.  It  propagates  readily  from  seed.  Abu- 
tilons  are  most  satisfactory  for  house  plants  when  they  are 
not  much  more  than  a  year  old.  They  need  no  special 
treatment. 

Aconitum.     MONK'S  HOOD.     WOLF'S  BANE. 

Hardy  herbaceous  perennials  allied  to  larkspurs.  They  are 
showy  border  plants,  usually  flowering  the  first  year  from 
seed,  if  the  seed  is  started  early,  and  bearing  panicles  of 
quaint  hood- shaped,  rich  flowers.  The  colors  have  a  wide 
range,  but  are  usually  deep  blue.  The  improved  varieties 
are  much  superior  in  size  and  markings.  Aconitums  are 
most  effective  when  planted  in  a  mixed  border  :  the  flower 
stalks  being  held  well  up,  show  the  blossoms  to  good  ad- 
vantage. Seed  may  be  sown  every  two  years,  as  the  plants 
in  their  year-old  and  2-year-old  stage  have  the  largest 


ACONITUM — AGAPANTHUS  3 

blossoms.  Sow  in  gentle  heat  in  March,  transplanting  to 
border  when  the  weather  is  settled.  Boots  may  be  divided 
if  desired,  but  best  results  are  to  be  expected  from  seed- 
lings. A.  Nopellus  is  the  commonest  one.  The  plants  are 
very  poisonous  if  eaten.  Bloom  in  early  summer.  2-3  ft. 

Acroclinium.  A  low -growing  everlasting  an- 
nual flower,  white,  violet,  or  rose  in  color.  Seeds  should 
preferably  be  started  in  a  hotbed  or  window,  and  planted 
out  when  danger  of  frost  is  past  ;  the  flowers  should  be 
gathered  when  half  expanded  and  hung 
in  the  shade  to  dry.  Half  -  hardy. 

_,        ,      i      <•  /-N  i  n    i  r     •  [^ff     Adlumia  cirrhosa 

Plant   1    foot    apart.      Grow    10-15    in. 
high.     See  Everlastings. 

Adlumia.  MOUNTAIN  FRINGE. 
ALLEGHENY  VINE.  One  of  the  daintiest 
of  climbers,  making  a  very  rapid  growth, 
and  when  once  established  seeding  itself 
and  thriving  for  years,  growing  10  or 
15  feet  in  a  season.  Give  rich,  rather 
moist  soil.  It  is  biennial,  blooming  the 
second  year.  Flowers  like  those  of  the 
bleeding  heart  and  other  dicentras.  It  is  native. 

Adonis.  A  low -growing  hardy  annual  or  per- 
ennial of  the  easiest  culture.  It  makes  a  fine  mass  effect, 
as  the  flowers  are  a  striking  dark  scarlet  or  crimson  color, 
and  the  plants  are  very  free  and  continuous  bloomers. 
Sow  early  in  the  spring  where  wanted.  The  perennial 
yellow-flowered  sorts  sometimes  bloom  the  first  year  from 
seed.  Adonises  are  very  neat  in  habit,  and  the  foliage  is 
fine  and  interesting.  10-15  in. 

Agapanthus.      AFRICAN    LILY.     A    tuberous - 

rooted,  well  known  conservatory  or  window  plant.  It  lends 
itself  to  many  conditions  and  proves  satisfactory  a  large  part 
of  the  year,  the  leaves  forming  a  green  arch  over  the  pot, 
covering  it  entirely  in  a  well  grown  specimen.  The  flowers 


4  THE     PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

are  borne  in  a  large  cluster  on  stems  growing  from  2  to  3 
ft.  high,  as  many  as  two  or  three  hundred  bright  blue  flowers 
often  forming  on  a  single  plant.  A  large,  well  grown 
plant  throws  up  a  number  of  flower-stalks  through  the 
early  season.  The  one  essential  to  free  growth  is  an  abun- 
dance of  water  and  an  occasional  application  of  manure 
water.  Propagation  is  effected  by  division  of  the  offsets, 
which  may  be  broken  from  the  main  plant  in  early  spring. 
After  flowering,  gradually  lessen  the  quantity  of  water  until 
they  are  placed  in  winter  quarters,  which  should  be  a  posi- 
tion fiee  from  frost  and  moderately  dry.  The  Agapanthus, 
being  a  heavy  feeder,  should  be  grown  in  strong  loam  to 
which  is  added  well  rotted  manure  and  a  little  sand. 

Ageratum.  A  half-hardy  annual,  used  as  a 
border  plant,  for  ribbon  bedding  for  mass  effect,  or  in 
mixed  beds  of  geranium,  coleuses  and  other  plants.  The 
seeds  germinate  readily,  but  as  the  plant  is  only 
half-hardy  and  is  usually  wanted  in  flower  when 
planted  out,  it  is  usual  to  sow  the  seed  in  boxes 
V  placed  in  hotbeds  or  windows  in  March,  trans- 
planting the  seedlings  to  small  boxes  or  pots  and 
growing  the  young  plants  on  until  the  1st  of  May, 
when  they  may  be  planted  out.  Pieces  of  young 
wood  root  very  easily,  and  the  gardener  usually 
increases  his  stock  by  cuttings.  The  dwarf  varie- 

Ageratum 

ties  are  the  most  desirable,  and  the  two  colors, 
blue  and  white,  may  bo  planted  together.  2-3  ft.  Plants 
may  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  set  in  the  house  ;  cut  them 
back  severely. 

Allegheny  Vine.     See  Adlumia. 

Almond  is  about  as  hardy  as  the  peach,  but  it 

blooms  so  early  in  the  spring  that  it  is  little  grown  east  of 
the  Pacific  slope.  It  is  an  interesting  ornamental  tree,  and 
its  early  bloom  is  a  merit  when  the  fruit  is  not  desired. 
The  Almonds  commonly  sold  by  nurserymen  in  the  east  are 


ALMOND— ALSTROMERIA  5 

hard-shell  varieties,  arid  the  nuts  are  not  good  enough  for 
commerce.  The  Almond  fruit  is  a  drupe,  like  the  peach, 
but  the  flesh  is  thin  and  hard  and  the  pit  is  the  "  Almond  " 
of  commerce.  Culture  the  same  as  for  peach. 

Flowering  Almond  is  a  very  early -flowering  bush,  ex- 
cellent for  shrub -borders.  It  is  usually  grafted  on  plum 
stock,  and  one  must  take  care  to  keep  down  the  plum  sprouts 
which  sometimes  spring  from  the  root. 

Aloe.  Succulent  tropical  plants,  sometimes  seen 
in  window  gardens.  Of  easy  culture.  See  that  the  pots 
have  perfect  drainage.  Make  a  soil  of  sandy  loam,  with 
one-third  or  one-fourth  part  of  broken  brick.  Pot  firmly. 
Water  whenever  needed,  but  the  soil  and  drainage  should 
be  such  that  the  earth  does  not  remain  soggy  or  become 
sour.  Aloes  thrive  year  after  year  without  repotting. 
Usually  propagated  by  cuttings.  A.  variegata  is  the  com- 
monest species. 

Alonsoa.  Tender  annual.  Not  very  well  known , 
but  a  bright  plant  for  second-row  border  or  a  low  bedding 
plant.  Planted  against  shrubbery  or  other  protection  after 
danger  of  frost  is  over,  it  lightens  up  a  dark  corner.  2-3  ft. 
Plant  10-15  in.  apart,  in  a  warm  place  protected  from  wind. 

Alstromeria.  The  Alstromerias  belong  to  tho 
amaryllis  family,  being  tuberous-rooted  plants,  having  leafy 
stems  and  terminating  in  a  cluster  of  from  10  to  50  small 
lily-shaped  flowers  of  rich  colors.  Most  of  the  kinds  should 
be  given  pot  culture,  as  they  are  easily  grown  and  are  not 
hardy  in  the  open  in  the  north.  The  culture  is  nearly  that  of 
the  amaryllis, — a  good,  fibrous  loam  with  a  little  sand,  pot- 
ting the  tubers  in  early  spring  or  late  fall.  Start  the  plants 
slowly,  giving  only  water  enough  to  cause  root  growth ;  but 
after  growth  has  become  established,  a  quantity  of  water  may 
be  given.  After  flowering  they  may  be  treated  as  are  ama- 
ryllis or  agapanthus.  The  plants  grow  1-2%  ft.  high.  The 
flowers  often  have  odd  colors. 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Sweet  Alyssum 


Althaea.     See  Hollyhock. 

Alyssum,  Sweet.  A  low-growing,  hardy,  white- 
flowered,  very  fragrant  annual  which  is  much  used  for  edg- 
ings, window  boxes,  and  the  like.  It  is  of  the  easiest  culture 
in  any  soil,  but  thrives  best  in  a  garden  loam  of  moderate 
fertility.  Seeds  may  be  sown  as  early  as  the 
ground  can  be  well  prepared  in  spring.  The  plant 
will  begin  to  bloom  when  2  or  3  inches  high,  and 
continue  to  bloom,  as  it  grows,  until  after  the 
first  hard  frosts.  It  makes  a  mat  1  to  2  ft. 
across.  If  immediate  effects  are  not  desired, 
the  plants  should  be  thinned  out  or  transplanted 
to  stand  half  a  foot  apart.  It  rarely  stands  more 
than  a  foot  high.  In  the  fall,  plants  may  be  cut 
back  and  put  into  pots  or  boxe*,  and  they  will 
bloom  in  the  window.  Better  results  in  winter 
blooming  are  secured  by  starting  seeds  in  boxes  in  August, 
September  or  October.  There  are  certain  hardy  perennial 
yellow-flowered  Alyssums  which  are  useful  for  prominent 
edgings  and  for  rockwork. 

Amarantus.  Decorative  annuals.  One  species 
(with  erect  spikes)  is  known  as  PRINCE'S  FEATHER,  another 
(with  variegated  foliage)  as  JOSEPH'S  COAT,  and  still  another 
(with  drooping  spikes)  as  LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING. 
Probably  the  finest  of  the  list  is  A.  salicifolius, 
often  called  Fountain  Plant.  This  has  graceful 
willow-shaped  leaves,  banded  and  tipped  with 
carmine,  bronze  and  orange.  The  tall  kinds 
make  fine  screens  for  unsightly  objects.  They 
may  also  be  used  against  masses  of  green  to  add 
color.  The  Amaranths  are  half-hardy  or  tender 
plants,  and  should  be  sown  in  boxes  in  March  or 
April,  to  be  planted  out  after  all  danger  of  frost  is  past. 
Seeds  may  also  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
They  were  once  among  the  most  popular  of  garden  plants, 


Prince's  Feather 


AMARANTHS— AMMOBIUM  7 

but  for  a  few  years  have  been  neglected.  Fine  colors  have 
recently  been  developed,  and  they  are  again  becoming  favor- 
ites. As  they  are  rather  coarse  and  weetly  plants,  do  not 
use  them  with  dainty  flowers.  Most  kinds  grow  2-3  ft.  high 
and  spread  2-3  ft. 

Amaryllis.  Popular  name  of  a  variety  of  house 
or  conservatory  tender  bulbs,  but  properly  applied  only  to 
the  Belladonna  Lily.  Most  of  them  are  hippeastrums,  but 
the  culture  of  all  is  similar.  They  are  satisfactory  house 
plants.  The  one  objection  to  their  culture  is  the  habit  of 
the  flower- stalk  starting  into  growth  before  the  leaves  start. 
This  is  caused  in  most  cases  by  stimulating  root  growth  be- 
fore the  bulb  has  had  sufficient  rest.  The  bulbs  should  be 
dormant  for  four  or  five  months  in  a  dry  place  with  a  temper- 
ature of  about  50°.  When  wanted  to  be  brought  into  flower, 
the  bulbs,  if  to  be  repotted,  should  have  all  the  dirt  shaken 
off  and  potted  in  soil  composed  of  fibrous  loam  and  leaf- 
mold,  to  which  should  be  added  a  little  sand.  If  the  loam 
is  a  heavy  one,  place  the  pot  in  a  warm  situation ;  a  spent 
hotbed  is  a  good  place.  Water  as  needed,  and  as  the  flowers 
develop  liquid  manure  may  be  given.  If  large  clumps  are 
well  established  in  8-  or  10-inch  pots,  they  may  be  top-dressed 
with  new  soil  containing  rotted  manure,  and  as  growth  in- 
creases liquid  manure  may  be  given  twice  a  week  until  the 
flowers  open.  After  flowering,  gradually  withhold  water  until 
the  leaves  die.  The  most  popular  species  for  window  gardens 
is  A.  Johns oni  (properly  a  hippeastrum),  with  red  flowers. 

Amethyst.     See  Browallia. 

Ammobium.  A  half-hardy  perennial  everlast- 
ing with  white  flowers.  Thrives  best  in  sandy  soil.  Sow 
seeds  where  plants  are  to  stand.  Although  perennial,  it 
blooms  the  first  year  from  seed,  and  is  usually  treated  as  an 
annual.  2-3  ft.  high.  Plant  12-18  in.  apart. 

Ammoniacal  Carbonate  of  Copper.  See  under 
Bordeaux  Mixture. 


8  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Anchusa.  Hardy  annuals  and  perennials,  fit 
for  heavy  borders.  The  plants  grow  to  the  height  of  2  to  3 
feet  and  bear  purple  or  blue  flowers,  which  are  showy  either 
on  the  plant  or  in  bouquets.  Propagated  from  seed  sown  in 
early  spring,  either  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  or  in  boxes 
or  hotbeds.  The  common  kind  is  annual.  Blooms  in 
summer. 

Anemone.     WIND  FLOWER.     A  group  of  hardy 

perennials.  The  best  known  of  this  genus  is  A.  Japonica 
alba,  or  Honorine  Jobert.  This  species  blooms  from 
August  to  November,  and  is  at  that  season  the  fin- 
est of  border  plants.  The  pure  white  flowers,  with 
lemon- colored  stamens,  are  held  well  up  on  stalks 
2-3  ft.  high.  The  flower  stems  are  long  and  ex- 
cellent for  cutting.  This  species  may  be  propa- 
gated by  division  of  the  plants  or  by  seed.  The 
former  method  should  be  put  into  practice  in  the 
Anemone  ja-  spring ;  the  latter  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  ripe  in 
pomca.  ^e  fall.  Sow  the  seed  in  boxes  in  a  warm,  shel- 
tered situation  in  the  border  or  under  glass.  The  seed 
should  be  covered  lightly  with  soil  containing  a  quantity 
of  sand  and  not  allowed  to  become  dry.  A  well  enriched, 
sheltered  position  in  a  border  should  be  given.  There  are 
red-flowered  varieties. 

The  varieties  of  A.  coronaria  are  tuberous -rooted  plants. 
The  tubers  of  these  should  be  planted  in  the  fall,  late  in 
September  or  early  in  October,  in  a  well  enriched,  sheltered 
border,  setting  the  tubers  3  in.  deep  and  from  4-6  in  apart. 
The  surface  of  the  border  should  be  mulched  with  leaves  or 
strawy  manure  through  the  severe  winter  weather,  uncover- 
ing the  soil  in  March.  The  flowers  will  appear  in  April  or 
May,  and  in  June  or  July  the  tubers  should  be  taken  up  and 
placed  in  a  dry  place  in  sand  until  the  following  fall.  This 
section  is  not  as  well  known  as  it  should  be.  The  range 
of  color  is  very  wide.  The  flowers  are  often  2  in.  across, 
and  are  lasting.  These  tubers  may  be  planted  in  pots  in 


ANEMONE — ANNUALS 


9 


the  same  manner  as  in  the  border,  bringing  them  into  the 
couservatory  or  house  at  intervals  through  the  winter, 
where  they  make  an  excellent  showing  when  in  bloom. 

The  little  wild  Wind  Flowers  are  easily  colonized  in  a 
hardy  border. 

Annuals.  The  annual  flowers  of  the  seedsmen 
are  those  which  give  their  best  bloom  in  the  very  year 
in  wrhich  the  seeds  are  sown.  True  annuals  are  those 
plants  which  complete  their  entire  life-cycle  in  one  season. 
Some  of  the  so-called  annual  flowers  will  continue  to  bloom 
the  second  and  third  years,  but  the  bloom  is  so  poor  and 
sparse  after  the  first  season  that  it  does  not  pay  to  keep 
them. 

Most  annuals  will  bloom  in  central  New  York  if  the  seeds 
are  sown  in  the  open  ground  when  the  weather  becomes 
thoroughly  settled.  But  there  are  some  kinds,  as  Cosmos 
and  Moonflowers,  for  which  our  season  is  commonly  too 
short  to  give  good  bloom.  These  kinds  may  be  started  early 
in  the  house  or  in  hotbeds  ;  and  similar  treatment  may  be 
given  any  plants  of  which  it  is  desired 
to  secure  blooms  before  the  normal  time. 

Prepare  the  ground  thoroughly  and 
deep.  Annuals  must  make  a  quick 
growth.  See  that  the  soil  contains 
enough  humus  or  vegetable  mold  to 
make  it  rich  and  to  enable  it  to 
hold  moisture.  If  the  ground  is 
not  naturally  rich,  spade  in  well- 
rotted  manure  or  mold  from  the 
woods.  A  little  commercial  ferti- 
lizer may  help  in  starting  off  the 
plants  quickly.  Prepare  the  land 
as  early  in  spring  as  it  is  in  fit  condition,  and  prevent 
evaporation  by  keeping  the  surface  loose  by  means  of 
raking. 

If  the  flowers  are  to  be  grown  about  the  edges  of  the 


A  box  garden 


1:)        THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

lawn,  make  sure  that  the  grass  roots  do  not  run  underneath 
them  and  rob  them  of  food  and  moisture.     It  is  well  to  run 
a  sharp  spade  deep  into  the  ground  about  the  edges  of  the 
bed  every  two  or  three  weeks  for  the  purpose  of  cut- 
ting off  any  grass  roots  which  may  have  run  into  the 
bed.     If  beds  are  made  in  the  turf,  see  that  they  are 
3  ft.  or  more    wide,  so  that  the  grass    roots  will  not 
undermine  them.     Against    the    shrub  borders, 
this  precaution  may  not  be  necessary.     In  fact, 
it    is    desirable    that    the    flowers   fill    all    the 
space   between   the    overhanging   branches  and 
the  sod. 

Flowers  against  a  gow  tne  see(js  freely.     Many  will  not  germi- 

nate. Even  if  they  do  all  germinate,  the  com- 
bined strength  of  the  rising  plantlets  will  break  the  crust  on 
the  hard  soils ;  and  in  the  thinning  which  follows,  only  strong 
and  promising  plants  are  allowed  to  remain.  Better  effects 
are  also  often  secured  when  the  colors  are  in  masses,  espe- 
cially if  the  flowers  are  thrown  into  the  bays  of  heavy  shrub 
borders. 

Plants  continue  to  bloom  for  a  longer  period  if  they  are 
not  allowed  to  produce  seeds.  The  flowers  should  be  picked, 
if  possible,  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  fade. 

In  the  selection  of  the  kinds  of  annuals,  one's  personal 
preference  must  be  the  guide.  Yet  there  are  some  groups 
which  maybe  considered  to  be  standard  or  general-purpose 
plants.  They  are  easily  grown  almost  anywhere,  and  are 
sure  to  give  satisfaction.  The  remaining  plants  are  mostly 
such  as  have  secondary  value,  or  are  adapted  to  particular 
purposes  or  uses. 

The  groups  which  most  strongly  appeal  to  the  writer  as 
staple  or  general -purpose  types  are  the  following:  Petunias, 
phloxes,  pinks  or  dianthuses,  larkspurs  or  delphiniums, 
calliopsis  or  coreopsis,  pot  marigold  or  calendula,  bachelor's 
button  or  Centaurea  Cyanus,  clarkias,  zinnias,  marigolds  or 
tagetes,  collinsias,  gilias,  California  poppies  or  eschscholtzias, 


ANNUALS  11 

verbenas,  poppies,  China  asters,  sweet  peas,  nemophilas, 
portulacas,  silenes,  candytufts  or  iberis,  alyssum,  stocks  or 
matthiolas,  morning-glories,  nasturtiums  or  tropseolums. 

Annual  flowers  possess  a  great  advantage  over  perennials 
in  the  fact  that  they  appeal  strongly  to  the  desire  for  ex- 
periment. The  seeds  are  sown  every  year,  and  there  is  suffi- 
cient element  of  uncertainty  in  the  results  to  make  the  effort 
interesting;  and  new  combinations  can  be  tried  each  year. 

Do  not  cut  the  old  stalks  down  in  the  fall.  They  will 
stand  in  the  snow  all  through  the  winter,  and  remind  you  of 
the  bursting  summer  time  and  the  long -ripening  fall;  and 
the  snow-birds  will  find  them  in  the  short  days  of  winter. 

Some  of  the  most  reliable  and  easily  grown  annuals  for 
the  north  are  given  in  the  following  lists  (under  the  com- 
mon trade  names)  : 

WHITE  FLOWERS 

Ageratum  Mexicanum  album .  Matthiola  (Stocks),  Cut  and 
Alyssum,  Common  Sweet.  Come  Again.  ruaj 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  compacta.  Matthiola,  Dresden    Perpet- 

Centranthus         macrosiphon  Matthiola,  Giant  Perfection. 

albus.  Matthiola,  White  Pearl. 

Convolvulus  major.  Mirabilis  longiflora  alba. 

Dianthus,  Double  White  Mar-  Nigella. 

garet.  Papaver  (Poppy),  Flag  of 
Iberis  amara.  Truce. 

Iberis      coronaria,      White  Papaver,  Shirley. 

Rocket.  Papaver,  The  Mikado. 

Ipomoea  hederacea.  Phlox,  Dwarf  Snowball. 

Lavatera  alba.  Phlox,  Leopoldii. 

Malope  grandiflora  alba.  Zinnia. 

YELLOW   FLOWERS 

Cacalia  lutea.  [mon.       Calendula  sulphurea. 

Calendula    officinalis,    Com-       Calendula  suffruticosa. 
Calendula  officinalis,  Meteor.       Calliopsis  bicolor  marmorata. 


12 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Yellow  Flowers*-  Continued 


Calliopsis  cardaminaefolia. 
Calliopsis  elegans  picta. 
Cosmidium  Burridgianum. 
Erysimum  Peroffskiaimm. 
Eschscholtzia  Californica. 
Hibiscus  Africanus. 
Hibiscus,  Golden  Bowl. 
Ipomoea  coccinea  lutea. 


Loasa  tricolor, 
Tagetes,  various  kinds, 
Thunbergia  alata  Fryeri. 
Thunbergia  alata  aurantiaca. 
Tropseolum,      Dwarf,     Lady 

Bird. 

Tropa3olum,  Tall,  Schulzi. 
Zinnia. 


BLUE  FLOWERS 


Ageratum  Mexicanum. 

Ageratum  Mexicanum,  Dwarf. 

Browallia  Czerniakowski. 

Browallia  elata. 

Centaurea  Cyanus,  Victoria 
Dwarf  Compact. 

Centaurea  Cyanus  minor. 

China  Asters  of  several  va- 
rieties. 

Convolvulus  minor. 

Convolvulus  minor  unicaulis. 

Gilia  achilleaBfolia. 

Gilia  capitata. 

Iberis  umbellata. 


Iberis  umbellata  lilacina. 

Kaulfussia  amelloides. 

Kaulfussia  atroviolacea. 

Lobelia  Erinus. 

Lobelia  Erinus,  Elegant. 

Nigella. 

Phlox     variabilis      atropur- 

purea. 

Salvia  farinacea. 
Specularia. 
Verbena,  Black-blue. 
Verbena  coerulea. 
Verbena,  Golden -leaved. 
Whitlavia  gloxinoides. 


RED  FLOWERS 


Cacalia,  Scarlet. 
Clarkia  elegans  rosea. 
Convolvulus  tricolor  roseus. 
Dianthus,  Half  Dwarf  Early 

Margaret. 

Dianthus,  Dwarf  Perpetual. 
Dianthus  Chinensis,  Double. 
Gaillardia  picta. 
Ipomoea  coccinea. 


Ipomoea  volubilis. 
Matthiola  annuus  (Stocks). 
Matthiola,     Blood -red     Ten 

Weeks. 

Matthiola  grandiflora,  Dwarf. 
Papaver  (Poppy)  cardinale. 
Papaver,  Double. 
Papaver,  Mephisto. 
Phaseolus  multinorus. 


ANNUALS  13 

Red  Floivers— Continued 

Phlox,  Large -flowering  Tropaeolum,      Dwarf,      Tom 

Dwarf.  Thumb. 

Phlox,  Dwarf  Fireball.  Tropseolum,  Dwarf. 

Phlox,  Black  Warrior.  Verbena  hybrida.        [fiance. 

Salvia  coecinea.  Verbena  hybrida,  Scarlet  De- 

Saponaria.  Zinnia. 

GOOD  FOR  EDGINGS  OF  BEDS  AND   WALKS 

Alyssum,  Sweet.  Lobelia  Erinus. 

Brachycome.  Nigellas. 

Colliusias.  Nemophilas. 

Dianthuses  or  Pinks.  Portulacas  or  Rose  Moss. 

Gypsophila  muralis.  Saponaria  Calabrica. 

Iberis  or  Candytufts.  Specularia. 

Leptosiphons. 

KINDS   WHICH  CONTINUE  TO  BLOOM  AFTER  FROST 

Abronia  umbellata.  Erysimum  Arkansanum. 

Adonis  sestivalis.  Eschscholtzias,     in      several 
Adonis  autumnale.  varieties. 

Argemone  graudiflora.  Gaillardia  picta. 

Calendulas.  Gilia  Achillesefolia. 

Callirrhoe.  Gilia  capitata. 

Carduus  Benedictus.  Gilia  laciniata. 

Centaurea  Cyanus  Gilia  tricolor. 

Centauridium.  Iberis  affinis. 

Centranthus  macrosiphon.  Lavatera  alba. 

Cerinthe  retorta.  Matthiolas  or  Stocks. 

Cheiranthus  Cheiri.  CEnothera  rosea. 

Chrysanthemums.  CEnothera  Lamarckiana. 

Convolvulus  minor.  CEnothera  Drummondii. 

Convolvulus  tricolor.  Phlox  Drummondii. 

Dianthus  of  various  kinds.  Podolepis  affinis. 

Elscholtzia  cristata.  Podolepis  chrysantha. 

Erysimum  Peroffskianum.  Salvia  coecinea. 


14  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Kinds  which  Bloom  after  Frost— Continued 
Salvia  farinacea.  Virginian  Stocks. 

Salvia  Horminum.  Viscaria  elegans. 

Verbenas.  Viscaria  oculata. 

Vicia  Gerardii.  Viscaria  cceli-rosa. 

Antirrhinum.     See  Snapdragon. 

Apple,  the  "King  of  Fruits,"  thrives  over  a 
wider  range  of  territory  and  under  more  varied  conditions 
than  any  other  tree  fruit.  This  means  that  it  is  easy  to 
grow.  In  fact,  it  is  so  easy  to  grow  that  it  usually  is 
neglected;  and  people  wonder  why  the  trees  do  not  bear. 

The  selection  of  varieties  of  Apples  for  home  use  is,  to  a 
large  extent,  a  personal  matter;  and  no  one  may  say  what 
to  plant.  A  variety  that  is  successfully  grown  in  one  sec- 
tion may  prove  disappointing  in  another.  One  should  study 
the  locality  in  which  he  wishes  to  plant  and  choose  those 
varieties  which  are  the  most  successfully  grown  there, — 
choosing  from  amongst  the  successful  kinds  those  which  he 
likes  best  and  which  seem  best  to  meet  the  purposes  for 
which  he  is  to  grow  them.  When  the  selection  is  made,  the 
trees  should  be  procured  from  a  near-by  nurseryman,  if 
possible,  as  one  is  then  able  to  select  his  own  trees,  receive 
them  in  the  shortest  time,  and  plant  them  before  they  have 
become  dry. 

The  land  on  which  an  orchard  is  to  be  planted  should 
have  been  in  cultivation  at  least  two  years  previous  to  set- 
ting the  trees  and  be  in  a  fine  physical  condition.  Dig 
the  hole  broad  and  deep  enough  to  take  in  all  the  roots  left 
after  pruning  off  the  bruised  ends  caused  by  digging  up  the 
tree,  and  trim  back  the  branches  at  least  two-thirds,  making  a 
smooth  cut.  Set  the  trunk  in  the  center  of  the  hole,  and 
sift  the  fine  dirt  down  through  the  roots,  slightly  lifting  the 
tree  once  or  twice  in  order  that  the  fine  soil  may  settle  under 
the  roots,  making  congenial  soil  for  the  new  roots  to  run 
through.  Fill  in  over  the  roots,  gradually  firming  the  soil 


APPLES  15 

above  with  the  feet.  When  the  hole  is  full,  firm  the 
soil  around  the  trunk  to  prevent  whipping  by  the 
wind,  leaving  the  surface  level.  If  the  trees  are  set  in  the 
fall  a  slight  earthing  up  to  the  trunk  may  be  beneficial 
in  certain  soils,  and  if  set  in  a  dry 
spring  a  mulch  of  straw  or  grass 
will  benefit  them.  Two- or  3-year- 
old  trees  (usually  the  latter)  are 
the  most  desirable  for  planting 
in  home  grounds.  Commercial 
orchards  are  often  planted  exclu- 
sively with  2-year-olds. 

In  orchard  cultivation,  Apple  trees  are  usually  planted 
35  to  40  ft.  apart  each  way.  In  home  grounds  they  may  be 
placed  somewhat  closer  than  this,  especially  if  they  are 
planted  upon  the  boundaries,  so  that  the  limbs  may  project 
freely  in  one  direction. 

It  is  ordinarily  advisable,  especially  in  the  humid  climates 
east  of  the  Great  Lakes,  to  have  the  body  of  the  tree  3%  to 
4%  ft.  long.  The  limbs  should  be  trimmed  up  to  this  point 
when  the  tree  is  set.  From  three  to  five  main  branches 
maybe  left  to  form  the  framework  of  the  top.  These  should 
be  shortened  back  one-fourth  or  one-half  when  the  tree  is  set. 
Subsequent  pruning  should  keep  the  top  of  the  tree  open 
and  maintain  it  in  more  or  less  symmetrical  form.  See 
Pruning. 

In  orchard  conditions,  the  trees  should  be  kept  in  clean 
culture,  especially  for  the  first  few  years  ;  but  this  is  not 
always  possible  in  home  yards.  In  lieu  of  tillage,  the  sward 
may  be  mulched  each  fall  with  stable  manure,  and  commer- 
cial fertilizer  may  be  applied  each  fall  or  spring.  If  fruit  is 
wanted  rather  than  foliage  and  shade,  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  make  ground  too  rich  but  to  keep  it  in  such  condition  that 
the  tree  is  making  a  fairly  vigorous  growth,  with  good  strong 
foliage,  but  is  not  overgrowing.  An  Apple  tree  in  full  bear- 
ing is  usually  in  good  condition  if  the  twigs  grow  from  10  to 


16  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

18  in.  each  season.  All  leaf-eating  insects  may  be  kept  off 
by  spraying  with  Paris  green.  The  Appleworm  or  codlin- 
moth  may  be  kept  in  check  by  spraying  with  Paris  green  as 
soon  as  the  blossoms  fall,  and  again  a  week  or  ten  days 
later.  The  leaf  blight  or  apple -scab  fungus  may  be  kept  in 
check  by  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  just  before  the 
flowers  open,  and  again  after  they  fall  (see  Spraying}.  A 
close  watch  should  be  kept  for  borers.  Whenever  the  bark 
appears  to  be  dead  or  sunken  in  patches,  remove  it  and 
search  for  the  cause.  A  borer  will  usually  be  found  under- 
neath the  bark.  About  the  base  of  the  tree  the  most  serious 
injury  occurs  from  borers,  since  the  insect  which  enters 
there  bores  into  the  hard  wood.  His  presence  can  be  de- 
termined by  the  chips  which  are  cast  from  his  burrows.  The 
only  remedy  is  to  dig  out  the  larvae.  If  they  have  got  far 
into  the  wood,  they  can  be  killed  by  running  a  flexible  wire 
into  the  burrows. 

Apple  trees  should  begin  to  bear  when  three  to  five  years 
planted,  and  at  ten  years  should  be  bearing  good  crops. 
With  good  treatment,  they  should  continue  to  bear  for  thirty 
or  more  years.  It  is  cheaper  to  buy  trees  from  the  nursery 
than  to  attempt  to  raise  them  for  oneself. 

The  dwarf  Apples  are  secured  by  grafting  any  variety 
on  the  Paradise  or  Doucin  stocks,  which  are  simply  small- 
growing  varieties  of  Apples.  Dwarfs  are  much  used  in  the  Old 
World.  There  is  no  reason  why  they  should  not  be  used  for 
home  gardens  in  this  country.  They  may  be  planted  8  to 
10  ft.  apart,  and  trained  in  various  ways.  The  body  or 
trunk  should  not  be  more  than  1  or  2  ft.  long.  The  top 
should  be  headed- in  each  year  a  third  or  a  half  of  the  annual 
growth.  Dwarfs  bear  sooner  than  standards.  A  dwarf  in 
full  bearing  should  produce  from  a  peck  to  a  bushel  of 
apples.  Usually  only  the  finer  or  dessert  variety  of  Apples 
should  be  grown  on  dwarf  trees. 

Many  of  the  local  varieties  of  Apples  are  excellent 
for  home  use.  From  the  following  list  of  dessert  va- 


APPLE — APRICOT  17 

rieties,  one  can  select  a  good  assortment  for  the  home 
garden : 

Summer. — Early  Joe,  Primate,  Garden  Royal,  Summer 
Pearmain,  Early  Harvest,  Summer  Rose,  Sweet  Bough,  Sum- 
mer Queen,  Early  Strawberry,  Williams  Favorite. 

Fall. — Chenango,  Dyer,  Jefferis,  Jersey  Sweet,  Maiden 
Blush,  Gravenstein,  Fall  Pippin,  Mother  (late  fall  to  winter), 
Twenty  Ounce. 

Winter.. — Newtown  Pippin,  Golden  Russet,  Bellflower, 
Belmont,  King  (late  fall  S.  of  N.  Y.),  Grimes  Golden,  Melon, 
Hubbardston  (Nonesuch),  Northern  Spy,  Jonathan,  Fameuse 
or  Snow,  Lady,  Rambo,  Canada  Red,  York  Imperial,  Pomme 
Gris,  Esopus  Spitzenburg,  Swaar,  Peck  Pleasant,  Rhode 
Island  Greening,  Tallman  Sweet,  Sutton  Beauty,  Wagener, 
Seek-no-further. 

Apricot.  This  fruit,  usually  thought  to  be  too 
tender  for  the  winters  in  the  latitude  of  New  York,  has 
proved  as  hardy  as  the  peach.  Given  the  right  conditions 
as  to  soil  and  exposure,  it  will  yield  abundant  crops,  ripen- 
ing its  fruits  about  three  weeks  in  advance  of  early  peaches. 
It  would  seem  that  more  attention  should  be  given  to  its 
cultivation.  In  western  New  York  commercial  orchards  are 
now  producing  crops  of  as  fine  fruit  as  that  brought  from 
California.  The  introduction  of  the  Russian  varieties,  a  few 
years  ago,  added  to  the  list  several  desirable  kinds  that  have 
proved  hardier  and  a  little  later  in  blooming  than  the  old 
kinds.  The  fruits  of  the  Russian  varieties,  while  not  as 
large  as  the  other  varieties,  fully  equal  many  of  them  in 
flavor,  and  they  are  very  productive.  The  soil  for  Apricots 
should  be  rather  dry  ;  especially  should  the  subsoil  be 
such  that  no  water  may  stand  around  the  roots.  The  expo- 
sure should  be  to  the  north  or  west  to  retard  the  blooming 
period,  as  the  one  great  drawback  to  their  successful  fruiting 
is  the  early  blooming  and  subsequent  freezing  of  the  flowers 
or  small  fruits. 

The  two  serious  difficulties  in  the  growing  of  Apricots 


18        THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

are  the  ravages  of  the  curculio  (see  Plum)  and  the  danger 
to  the  flowers  from  the  spring  frosts.  It  is  usually  almost 
impossible  to  secure  fruits  from  one  or  two  isolated  Apricot 
trees,  because  the  curculios  will  take  them  all.  It  is  possi- 
ble, also,  that  some  of  the  varieties  need  cross-pollination. 
The  Apricot  usually  thrives  best  on  strong  soil ;  but  other- 
wise the  treatment  which  is  given  the  peach  suits  the  Apri- 
cot very  well..  The  Russian  varieties  bear  more  profusely 
and  with  less  care  than  the  old-fashioned  and  larger  kinds. 
Amongst  the  best  kinds  of  Apricots  are  Montgamet,  Jackson, 
Royal,  St.  Ambroise,  Early  Golden,  Harris,  Roman  and 
Moorepark.  In  the  east,  Apricots  are  commonly  worked  on 
plums,  but  they  also  thrive  on  the  peach. 

Aquarium.  A  pleasant  adjunct  to  a  living 
room  or  conservatory  is  a  large  glass  globe  or  glass  box 
containing  water,  in  which  plants  and  animals  are  living 
and  growing.  A  solid  glass  tank  or  globe  is  better  than 
a  box  with  glass  sides,  because  it  does  not  leak,  but  the 
box  must  be  used  if  one  wants  a  large  Aquarium.  For 
most  persons  it  is  better  to  buy  the  Aquarium  box  than  to 
attempt  to  make  it.  Four  things  are  important  in  making 
and  keeping  an  Aquarium  (according  to  Miss  Rogers,  in 
Cornell  Nature- Study  Leaflet  No.  11) : 

"  (1)  The  equilibrium  between  plant  and  animal  life 
must  be  secured  and  maintained.  Animals  do  not  thrive  in 
water  where  no  plants  are  growing.  Nature  keeps  plants 
and  animals  in  the  same  pond,  and  we  must  follow  her  lead. 
The  plants  have  three  valuable  functions  in  the  Aquarium. 
First,  they  supply  food  for  the  herbivorous  creatures. 
Second,  they  give  off  a  quantity  of  oxygen  which  is  neces- 
sary to  the  life  of  the  animals.  Third,  they  take  up  from 
the  water  the  poisonous  carbonic  acid  gas  which  passes 
from  the  bodies  of  the  animals.  Just  how  the  plants  do 
this  is  another  story.  (2)  The  Aquarium  must  be  venti- 
lated. Every  little  fish,  snail  and  insect  wants  air.  A 
certain  quantity  of  air  is  mixed  with  the  water,  and  the 


AQUARIUM  19 

creatures  must  breathe  that  or  come  to  the  surface  for  their 
supply.  How  does  Mother  Nature  manage  the  ventilation 
of  her  aquaria,  the  ponds  and  streams  ?  The  plants  fur- 
nish part  of  the  air,  as  we  have  seen.  The  open  pond, 
whose  surface  is  ruffled  by  every  passing  breeze,  is  con- 
stantly being  provided  with  fresh  air.  A  tadpole  or  a  fish 
can  no  more  live  in  a  long-necked  bottle  than  a  boy  can 
live  in  a  chimney.  (3)  The  temperature  should  be  kept 
between  40°  and  50°  Fahr.  Both  nature  and  experience 
teach  us  this.  A  shady  corner  is  a  better  place  for  the 
Aquarium  than  a  sunny  window  on  a  warm  day.  (4)  It  is 
well  to  choose  such  animals  for  the  Aquarium  as  are 
adapted  to  life  in  still  water.  Unless  one  has  an  arrange- 
ment of  water  pipes  to  supply  a  constant  flow  of  water 
through  the  Aquarium,  it  is  best  not  to  try  to  keep  creatures 
that  we  find  in  swift  streams.  Practical  experience  shows 
that  there  are  certain  dangers  to  guard  against.  Perhaps 
the  most  serious  results  come  from  overstocking.  It  is 
better  to  have  too  few  plants  or  animals  than  too  many  of 
either.  A  great  deal  of  light,  especially  bright  sunlight,  is 
not  good  for  the  Aquarium.  A  pond  that  is  not  shaded 
soon  becomes  green  with  a  thick  growth  of  slime,  or  alga3. 
This  does  not  look  well  in  an  Aquarium,  and  is  apt  to  take 
up  so  much  of  the  plant-food  that  the  other  plants  are 
starved  out.  The  plants  in  the  school-room  window  will 
shade  the  Aquarium  nicely,  just  as  the  trees  and  shrubs  on 
its  banks  shade  the  pond.  If  we  find  this  slime  forming 
on  the  light  side  of  our  miniature  pond  we  put  it  in  a  darker 
place,  shade  it  heavily  so  that  the  light  comes  in  from  the 
top  only,  and  put  in  a  few  more  snails.  These  will  make 
quick  work  of  the  green  slime,  for  they  are  fond  of  it,  if  we 
are  not." 

The  aquatic  plants  of  the  neighborhood  may  be  kept  in 
the  Aquarium,—  such  things  as  myriophyllums,  charas,  eel- 
grass,  duckmeats  or  lemnas,  cabomba  or  fish  grass,  arrow- 
leafs  or  sagittaria,  and  the  like;  also  the  parrot's  feather, 


20  THE    PRACTICAL     G  AltDEN  -  BOOK 

to  be  bought  of  florists  ( a  species  of  myriophyllum ) .  Of  ani- 
mals, there  are  fishes  (particularly  minnows),  water  inscets, 
tadpoles,  clams,  snails.  If  the  proper  balance  is  main- 
tained between  plant  and  animal  life,  it  will  not  be  neces- 
sary to  change  the  water  so  frequently. 

Aquatics  and  Bog  Plants.  Many  water  plants 
are  easily  grown,  and  make  a  fine  addition  to  the  home 
garden.  The  sedges  and  other  bog  plants,  the  cyperus  or 
umbrella  plant,  the  common  wild  water  lily,  and  in  large 
grounds  the  nelumbium  or  Egyptian  lotus,  all  may  be  grown 
with  ease.  For  restricted  grounds  any  of  these,  with  the 
exception  of  the  nelumbium,  may  be  grown  in  tubs  made  by 
sawing  an  oaken  barrel  in  two,  filling  each  half  from  one- 
third  to  one-half  with  soil  composed  of  good  loam,  sand 
and  leaf-mold,  setting  the  plants  well  into  the  soil  and  fill- 
ing the  tubs  with  water.  These  tubs  should  be  sunk  to  the 
rim  in  the  borders  or  lawn,  both  for  a  good  appearance  and 
to  prevent  too  great  evaporation.  By  a  little  care  in  filling 
with  water,  these  plants  may  be  well  grown  through  the 
hottest  weather.  Most  of  the  foreign  water  lilies  are  not 
hardy,  but  some  of  them  may  be  grown  with  ease  if  the 
pond  is  covered  in  winter. 

Native  Aquatics  may  be  colonized  in  streams  or  ponds. 
If  artificial  ponds  are  to  be  made,  do  not  get  them  too  deep. 
A  foot  or  15  inches  is  sufficient  depth  of  water  to  stand 
above  the  crowns  of  the  plants  ;  and  the  greatest  depth  of 
water  should  not  be  more  than  2%  ft.  for  all  kinds  of 
water  lilies.  Half  this  depth  is  often  sufficient.  The  soil 
should  be  1  to  2  ft.  deep,  and  very  rich.  Cow  manure  may 
be  mixed  with  rich  loam.  Roots  of  hardy  water  lilies  may 
be  planted  as  soon  as  the  pond  is  clear  of  frost,  but  the 
tender  kinds  (which  are  also  to  be  taken  up  in  the  fall) 
should  not  be  planted  till  it  is  time  to  plant  out  geraniums. 
Sink  the  roots  into  the  mud  so  that  they  are  just  buried,  and 
weight  them  down  with  a  stone  or  clod.  In  cold  climates, 
protect  the  pond  of  hardy  Aquatics  by  throwing  boards  over 


AQUATICS— ARTICHOKE  21 

the  pond  and  covering  with  hay,  straw  or  evergreen  boughs. 
It  is  well  to  supply  an  additional  depth  of  water  as  a  fur- 
ther protection. 

Aquilegia.  COLUMBINE.  These  hardy  peren- 
nials are  general  favorites  for  borders  and  rockwork. 
Blooming  early  in  the  season,  they  may  be  said  to  head  the 
procession  of  the  perennials.  The  ease  with  which  they 
may  be  cultivated,  their  freedom  of  bloom,  their  varied 
colors  and  odd  shape  entitle  them  to  the  front  rank  among 
hardy  plants.  They  are  propagated  by  division  of  the 
plants  in  the  spring  or  from  seed  sown  in  the  fall.  Seed- 
lings maybe  expected  to  bloom  well  the  second  year.  They 
require  a  moist,  partially  sheltered  situation,  with  exposure 
to  the  sun.  The  common  wild  Columbine  (often  called 
"honeysuckle")  is  easily  grown  and  is  very  attractive. 
Clumps  of  Columbine  should  stand  12-18  in.  apart.  2-3  ft. 
high. 

Araucaria,  or  NORFOLK  ISLAND  PINE,  is   now 

sold  in  pots  by  florists  as  a  window  plant.  The  common 
species  (A.  excelsa)  is  most  excellent  for  this  purpose,  mak- 
ing a  symmetrical  evergreen  subject.  It  keeps  well  in 
a  cool  window,  or  on  the  veranda  in  the  summer.  Protect 
it  from  direct  sunlight,  and  give  plenty  of  room.  If  the 
plant  begins  to  fail,  return  it  to  the  florist  for  recuperation. 

Argemone.     See  Prickly  Poppy. 

Aristolochia,  or  DUTCHMAN'S  PIPE.  A  strong, 
woody  twiner  with  very  large,  heavy  leaves,  forming  a  dense 
screen  and  having  peculiarly  shaped  flowers.  But  on& 
species  is  considered  hardy  north,  A.  Sipho.  This  will  grow 
without  special  treatment  and  prove  a  satisfactory  orna- 
mental screen  or  porch  plant.  Reaches  a  height  of  20  or  30 
ft.  Young  plants  need  some  protection  in  cold  winters. 

Artichoke.  A  tall,  coarse  perennial  of  the  thistle 
tribe,  producing  flower- heads  which  are  edible.  When  once> 
established,  it  will  last  in  bearing  for  a  number  of  years.. 


22  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

While  this  plant  is  not  generally  grown  in  this  country, 
its  merit  as  a  supplementary  vegetable  for  salads  or  cooking 
is  great.  It  is  usually  grown  from  suckers  from  the  root, 
but  a  start  can  be  made  by  sowing  the  seed.  Sow  in  a 
border  or  seed  box  and  transplant  to  the  garden  in  early 
summer;  and  the  following  year  a  crop  may  be  had.  The 
parts  of  the  plant  used  are  the  flower-heads  and  the  young 
suckers,  the  former  boiled  or  eaten  raw  as  a  salad.  The  young 
shoots  may  be  tied  together  and  blanched,  using  them  like 
asparagus  or  Swiss  chard.  The  fleshy  scales  of  the  head 
and  the  soft  "bottom"  of  the  head  are  the  parts  used.  But 
few  of  these  plants  would  be  needed  for  a  family,  as  they 
produce  a  number  of  flower-heads  to  a  plant  and  a  quantity 
of  suckers.  The  plants  should  be  set  from  2  to  3  ft.  apart 
in  the  row,  the  rows  being  3  ft.  apart.  This  vegetable  is 
not  quite  hardy  in  the  north,  but  a  covering  of  leaves  or 
barnyard  litter  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  will  protect  them  well. 
The  plant,  being  a  perennial,  will  continue  to  yield  for  a 
number  of  years  under  good  cultivation.  These  plants  make 
no  mean  decorative  subjects,  either  massed  or  in  a  mixed 
border,  and  from  the  rarity  of  their  culture  are  always  ob- 
jects of  interest. 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem,  is  a  wholly  different 
plant  from  the  above,  although  it  is  commonly  known  as 
"Artichoke"  in  this  country.  It  is  a  species  of  sunflower 
which  produces  potato -like  tubers.  These  tubers  may  be 
used  in  lieu  of  potatoes.  They  are  very  palatable  to  hogs; 
and  when  the  plant  becomes  a  weed— as  it  often  does  -  it 
may  be  exterminated  by  turning  the  hogs  into  it.  Hardy. 

Arundo,  or  REED,  is  one  of  the  best  of  bold  and 
ornamental  grasses,  excellent  for  the  center  of  a  large  formal 
bed,  or  for  emphatic  points  in  a  mixed  border.  It  is  per- 
ennial and  hardy  in  the  northern  states,  but  it  is  advisable 
to  give  it  a  mulch  on  the  approach  of  winter.  Thrives  in 
any  rich  soil,  doing  best  where  somewhat  moist.  8-12  ft. 
The  clumps  enlarge  year  by  year. 


ASPARAGUS  23 

Asparagus.  A  hardy  herbacous  perennial, 
much  grown  for  the  soft,  edible,  early  spring  shoots.  The 
culture  of  this,  the  finest  of  early  vegetables,  has  been  sim- 
plified in  the  past  few  years,  and  at  present  the  knowledge 
required  to  successfully  plant  and  grow  a  good  supply  need 
not  be  that  of  a  professional.  The  old  method  of  excavating 
to  the  depth  of  3  ft.  or  more,  throwing  in  from  4  to  6  in. 
of  broken  stone  or  bricks  for  drainage,  then  filling  to  within 
1C  to  18  in.  of  the  surface  with  well  rotted  manure,  with  6 
in.  of  soil  upon  which  to  set  the  roots,  has  given  place  to 
the  simple  practice  of  plowing  or  digging  a  trench  from  14 
to  16  in.  deep,  spreading  well  rotted  manure  in  the  bottom 
to  the  depth  of  3  or  4  in. ;  when  well  trodden  down  covering 
the  manure  with  3  or  4  in.  of  good  garden  soil,  then  setting 
the  plants,  with  the  roots  well  spread  out,  covering  carefully 
with  soil  to  the  level  of  the  garden,  and  firming  the  soil 
with  the  feet.  This  will  leave  the  crowns  of  the  plants  from 
4  to  5  in.  below  the  surface.  In  setting,  1-year-old  plants 
will  prove  more  satisfactory  than  older  ones,  being  less 
liable  to  suffer  from  injury  to  the  root  system  than  those 
which  have  made  a  larger  growth.  Two  years  after  setting 
the  crop  may  be  cut,  but  not  sooner  if  a  lasting  bed  is  de- 
sired, as  the  effort  to  replace  the  stalks  has  a  tendency  to 
weaken  the  plant  unless  the  roots  are  well  established.  The 
yearly  treatment  of  an  Asparagus  bed  consists  of  cleaning 
off  tops  and  weeds  in  the  fall  and  adding  a  dressing  of  well 
rotted  manure  to  the  depth  of  3  or  4  in.,  this  manure  to  be 
lightly  forked  into  the  bed  the  following  spring  ;  or,  the 
tops  may  be  allowed  to  stand  for  winter  protection  and  the 
mulch  left  off.  A  top-dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda,  at  the 
rate  of  200  pounds  per  acre,  is  often  beneficial  as  a  spring 
stimulant,  especially  in  the  case  of  an  old  bed.  Good  re- 
sults will  also  follow  an  application  of  bone  meal  or  su- 
perphosphate at  the  rate  of  from  300  to  500  pounds  per 
acre.  The  practice  of  sowing  salt  on  an  Asparagus  bed  is 
almost  universal.  Still,  beds  that  have  never  received  a 


24  THE     PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

pound  of  salt  are  found  to  be  as  productive  as  those  having 
received  an  annual  dressing.  Nevertheless,  a  salt  dressing 
is  recommended.  In  stubborn,  heavy  soil  the  best  method 
to  pursue  in  making  a  permanent  bed  would  be  to  throw  out 
all  the  dirt  from  the  trench  and  replace  with  good,  fibrous 
loam.  Two  rows  of  Asparagus  25  ft.  long  and  3  ft.  apart  would 
supply  a  large  family  with  an  abundance  throughout  the 
season,  and  if  well  taken  care  of  will  last  a  number  of  years. 
Conover's  Colossal  is  the  variety  most  generally  grown, 
and  is  perhaps  the  most  satisfactory  sort.  Palmetto,  a 
variety  originating  at  the  south,  is  also  very  popular.  A 
newer  variety,  called  Donald  White,  originating  near  Elmira, 
N.  Y.,  is  recommended  by  the  trade. 

Asperula.  Hardy  annuals  and  perennials. 
The  low- growing  Asperula,  with  its  blue  or  white  flowers, 
is  not  as  often  used  as  it  should  be.  The  profusion  of  small 
flowers  and  the  long  season  entitle  it  to  a  place  in  low  borders. 
The  flowers  have  a  pleasing  fragrance.  Asperulas  may  be 
used  effectively  on  rockwork.  The  common  white  species,  or 
Woodruff,  grows  less  than  1  foot.  Grown  readily  from 
seeds,  and  blooms  the  first  year.  All  Asperulas  thrive  best 
in  a  rather  moist  soil. 

Asters,  China.  Half-hardy  annuals,  of  easy 
culture.  The  China  Aster  has  been  for  years  a  great 
favorite  in  both  old-fashioned  and  modern  gardens.  With 
the  improvements  in  shapes  and  colors,  they  are  now 
the  rivals  of  the  chrysanthemum.  As  early  as  1731  single 
white  and  red  Asters  were  grown  and  described  in  Eng- 
land, and  by  1845  they  are  mentioned  as  being  very  nu- 
merous in  New  England.  The  Germans  were,  perhaps,  the 
first  to  improve  the  Asters,  and  the  type  most  admired  and 
sought  fifty  years  ago  was  the  full -quilled  varieties.  Now, 
however,  the  informal  type  replaces  the  stiff,  formal  quilled 
flowers  of  that  period.  Compare  the  Comet  Aster  of  to-day 
with  the  Asters  of  even  twenty  years  ago,  and  note  the 
looseness  of  its  broad  rays,  giving  an  artistic  value 


ASTERS  25 

far  beyond  the  tall,   stiff,    purple-blue    or  whites    of  that 
period. 

The  early  Asters  will  bloom  in  August  if  the  seed  is 
sown  in  the  open  early  in  the  season.  They  are  repre- 
sented by  the  Queen  of  the  Market  and  Queen  of  Spring, 
either  of  which,  if  started  in  a  hotbed  or  window, 
will  begin  to  bloom  the  last  of  July.  The  Queen 
of  the  Market  is  probably  the  freest  of  growth, 
and  with  its  long  stems  makes  a  very  desirable 
variety  for  cut-flowers.  In  fact,  in  the  rich,  mel- 
low soil  in  which  Asters  delight,  this  variety  is 
likely  to  have  its  large  flowers  on  stems  so  long 
and  slender  that  the  plants  will  need  stakes. 

The  Victoria  Asters  hold  a  well  deserved  place  China  Aster 
among  the  leading  varieties,  and  with  high  culture  will 
generally  lead  in  size  and  profusion  of  bloom,  the  colors 
ranging  from  white  to  the  darkest  blue.  The  plants  are 
also  well  adapted  to  pot  culture.  The  chrysanthemum  - 
flowered  Asters,  both  tall  and  dwarf,  are  excellent,  as  are 
the  Truffaut  Perfection  and  Peony- flowered.  The  Comet 
Asters  are  amongst  the  best.  The  New  Branching  type  is 
now  in  great  favor.  .. 

The  culture  of  China  Asters  is  easy.  For  early  bloom 
the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  March  in  boxes  of  light  soil  and 
covered  one-quarter  of  an  inch  with  soil,  the  soil  pressed 
down  or  firmed  over  them  and  the  boxes  placed  in  a  hotbed 
or  a  sunny  window  and  attention  given  to  watering.  When 
the  seedlings  are  one  inch  high  they  should  be  trans- 
planted to  other  boxes,  setting  the  plants  3  inches  apart  or 
put  into  2 -inch  pots.  These  should  be  again  placed  in  a 
frame  and  grown  along  until  the  ground  has  become  com- 
paratively warm.  The  soil  will  need  to  be  well  enriched, 
mellow,  and  if  slightly  moist  under  the  surface  the  results 
will  be  all  that  could  be  wished.  Asters  will  grow  fairly 
well  on  rather  light  soil,  even  if  not  very  rich,  but  the  best 
results  can  only  be  obtained  when  the  highest  culture  is 


26 


THE       PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Spray  of  wild  Aster 


given.     If  the  rust  attacks  the  plants,    spray  with   ammo- 
niacal  carbonate  of  copper. 

Aster,  Native.  Wild  Asters  are  one  of  the 
glories  of  the  American  autumn.  They  grow  almost  every- 
where in  the  north  and  east, —  along  road- 
sides, in  meadows  and  swales.  Their  colors 
range  from  pure  white  to  pink,  and  purple, 
and  blue.  From  August  until  winter  closes 
in,  they  are  conspicuous  features  of  the  land- 
scape, vying  with  the  goldenrods  in  form  and 
color,  but  surpassing  them  in  color-range. 
Most  of  them  are  greatly  improved  when 
transferred  to  the  border.  They  become 
more  attractive  in  general  habit,  and  the  flowers  are  usually 
more  profuse  and  sometimes  larger.  They  are  of  the  easiest 
possible  culture.  They  can  be  removed  to  home  grounds  in 
the  fall  or  spring,  and,  with  little  care  until  they  are  estab- 
lished, will  make  most  attractive  displays  of 
autumn  color.  The  species  are  numerous  and 
much  confused,  and  it  is  not  necessary  to  make 
a  list  of  them  here.  Because  of  their  free  and 
careless  habit,  they  are  better  adapted  to 
planting  in  borders  than  in  the  formal  flower 
beds. 

Aubrietia  deltoidea.  A  very  hand- 
some little  trailing  hardy  perennial,  covered 
with  attractive  purple  flowers  in  early  spring. 
Should  be  planted  in  masses  for  best  effect. 
Propagated  by  cuttings  or  seeds,  usually  the  latter.  Excel- 
lent for  rockwork  and  permanent  low  edgings. 

Auricula.  A  half-hardy  perennial  of  the 
Primrose  tribe  (Primula  Auricula),  very  popular  in  Europe, 
but  little  grown  in  this  country  on  account  of  the  hot,  dry 
summers.  In  this  country  usually  propagated  by  seed,  as 
for  Cineraria  ;  but  special  varieties  are  perpetuated  by  off- 


wild  Asters 


AURICULA— AZALEA  27 

sets.  Seeds  sown  in  February  or  March  should  give  bloom- 
ing plants  for  the  next  February  or  March.  Keep  the 
plants  cool  and  moist,  and  away  from  the  direct  sun  dur- 
ing the  summer.  Gardeners  usually  grow  them  in  frames. 
In  the  fall,  they  are  potted  into  3-inch  or  4-inch  pots,  and 
made  to  bloom  either  in  frames  as  for  violets  or  in  a  cool 
conservatory  or  greenhouse.  In  April,  after  blooming  has 
ceased,  repot  the  plants  and  treat  as  the  previous  year. 
From  the  best  plants,  offsets  may  be  taken  and  treated  the 
same  as  seedlings.  As  with  most  annual -blooming  peren- 
nials, best  results  are  to  be  expected  with  year-old  or  2- 
year-old  plants.  Auriculas  grow  6-8  in.  high.  Colors  white 
and  many  shades  of  red  and  blue. 

Azaleas  are  less  grown  in  this  country  than 
in  Europe,  largely  because  of  our  hot,  dry  summers  and 
severe  winters.  There  are  two  common  types  or  classes, — 
the  hardy  or  Ghent  Azaleas,  and  the  Indian  Azaleas. 

Ghent  Azaleas  thrive  in  the  open  along  the  seacoast  as 
far  north  as  southern  New  England.  They  require  a  sandy, 
peaty  soil,  and  are  treated  as  other  shrubs  are.  The  large 
flower-buds  are  liable  to  injury  from  the  warm  suns  of  late 
winter  and  early  spring,  and  to  avoid  this  injury  the  plants 
are  often  protected  by  covers  or  shades  of  brush.  In  the 
interior  country,  little  attempt  is  made  to  flower  Azaleas 
permanently  in  the  open,  although  they  may  be  grown  if 
carefully  tended  and  well  protected.  Both  Ghent  and  In- 
dian Azaleas  are  excellent  pot-plants,  for  bloom  in  late 
winter  and  spring.  The  plants  are  imported  in  great  num- 
bers from  Europe,  and  it  is  better  to  buy  these  plants  than 
to  attempt  to  propagate  them.  Pot  them  up  in  large -sized 
pots,  keep  them  cool  and  backward  for  a  time  until  they  are 
established,  then  take  them  into  a  conservatory  tempera- 
ture, in  \\hich  carnations  and  roses  thrive.  They  should  be 
potted  in  a  soil  made  of  half  peat  or  well  decayed  mold  and 
half  rich  loam  ;  add  a  little  sand.  Pot  firmly,  and  be  sure 
to  provide  sufficient  drainage.  Keep  off  red  spider  by 


28  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

syringing.  After  blooming,  the  plants  may  be  thinned  by 
pruning  out  the  straggling  growths,  and  repotted.  Set  them 
in  a  frame  or  in  a  semi-shaded  place  during  summer,  and  see 
that  they  make  a  good  growth.  The  wood  should  be  well 
ripened  in  the  if  all.  After  cold  weather  sets  in,  keep  the 
Indian  or  evergreen  kinds  half-dormant  by  setting  them  in 
a  cool,  dull- lighted  cellar  or  pit,  bringing  them  in  when 
wanted  for  bloom.  The  Ghent  or  deciduous  kinds  may  be 
touched  with  frost  without  injury  ;  and  they  may  be  stored 
in  a  cellar  until  wanted. 

Bachelor's  Button.  Centaurea  Cy- 
anus  and  also  Gomphrcna.  Sometimes  applied 
to  double-flowered  Crowfoots. 

Balloon  Vine,  or  CARDIOSPERMUM.  An- 
nual tender  tendril  climber  of  very  rapid  growth. 
Seed  should  not  be  planted  until  the  soil  becomes 
warm.  A  very  pretty  effect  can  be  had  by  allowing 
the  vine  to  run  over  some  coarser  vine,  or  into  an 
evergreen  tree.  The  balloon- like  capsules  show  to 
good  advantage  between  the  leaves.  It  is  also  use- 
ful for  covering  piles  of  brush.  Grows  8-12  ft.  high. 

Balloon  Vine         ^ .  , 

Give  a  warm,  sunny  place. 

Balsams,  or  IMPATIENS.  Tender  annuals,  pro- 
ducing both  single  and  double  flowers  of  many  colors. 
These  well  known  favorites  are  usually  to  be  found  in  old- 
fashioned  gardens.  They  are  very  likely  to  seed  themselves, 
coming  up  in  unexpected  places  and  flourishing  in  neglect. 
They  do  best,  however,  in  rich,  sandy  soil.  If  the  seed  is 
sown  in  boxes  late  in  April  and  the  plants  transplanted  sev- 
eral times  they  will  be  much  dwarfer  and  the  flowers  much 
more  double.  A  stately,  though  very  formal  and  stiff,  effect 
may  be  had  by  planting  a  row  of  Balsams  in  the  rear  of  a 
low  border,  pinching  off  all  the  side  shoots  as  they  start  and 
growing  the  plant  to  a  single  stem.  This  will  become  cov- 
ered with  the  large  blooms,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a 


BALSAM — BASKET  PLANTS  29 

perfect  column  of  flowers.  Balsams  are  injured  by  the 
slightest  frost.  Seeds  germinate  quickly.  Plants  should 
stand  12-18  in.  apart.  They  grow  18-30  in.  high. 

Bartonia.  Hardy  annual,  with  golden  yellow, 
brilliant  flowers.  The  tall-growing  Bartonia  (B.  aurea) 
may  be  used  in  a  mixed  border  to  good  advantage.  It  is  a 
bushy  plant,  reaching  23  ft.  high.  The  dwarf  kind  may 
be  used  as  a  border  plant  or  in  a  rock  garden,  or  as  an 
edging.  The  fragrance  of  both  tall  and  dwarf  is  very  pro- 
nounced in  the  evening.  The  Bartonias  are  very  easy  to 
grow  in  a  warm  soil  and  sunny  exposure.  Their  numerous 
thread-like,  long  stamens  are  very  interesting. 

Basket  Plants.  In  order  to  have  a  good  hang- 
ing basket,  it  is  necessary  that  some  provision  be  made 
to  prevent  too  rapid  drying  out  of  the  earth.  It  is  custom- 
ary, therefore,  to  line  the  pot  or  basket  with  moss.  Open 
wire  baskets,  like  a  horse  muzzle,  are  often  lined  with  moss 
and  used  for  the  growing  of  plants.  Prepare  the  earth  by 
mixing  some  well  decayed  leaf -mold  with  rich  garden  loam, 
thereby  making  an  earth  which  will  retain  moisture.  Hang 
the  basket  in  a  light  place,  but  still  not  in  a  direct  sunlight; 
and,  if  possible,  avoid  putting  it  where  it  will  be  exposed  to 
drying  wind.  In  order  to  water  the  basket,  it  is  often  ad- 
visable to  sink  it  into  a  pail  or  tub  of  water.  Various 
plants  are  well  adapted  to  hanging  baskets.  Among  the 
drooping  or  vine-like  kinds  are  the  strawberry  geranium, 
Kenilworth  ivy,  maurandya,  German  ivy,  canary-bird  flower, 
Asparagus  Sprengeri,  ivy  geranium,  trailing  fuchsia,  wander- 
ing Jew,  and  othonna.  Among  the  erect-growing  plants 
which  produce  flowers,  Lobelia  Erinus,  sweet  alyssum, 
petunias,  oxalis,  and  various  geraniums  are  to  be  recom- 
mended. Among  foliage  plants  such  things  as  coleus,  dusty 
miller,  begonia,  and  some  geraniums  are  adaptable, 

Baskets.  For  the  picking  and  handling  of 
fruit  in  the  home  garden,  the  common  Climax  basket,  in 


30  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

various  sizes,  is  the  best  receptacle.  In  these  baskets  the 
products  may  be  sold.  When  the  baskets  are  sent  to 
market  or  to  a  friend,  they  should  be  neat  and  new  looking; 
therefore  keep  them  in  a  dry,  dark  place,  as 
in  an  attic  or  loft,  to  prevent  them  from 
becoming  warped  and  discolored. 

Bean.     Under  the  general  name  of 
Bean,  many  kinds  of  plants  are  cultivated. 
rn_      ,r~"-l»      They  are  all  tender,  and  the  seeds,  therefore, 

—...i    •  —  .— JT- 

— *        * — —•        should  not  be  planted  until  the  weather  is 
thoroughly  settled  ;    and  the  soil  should  be 
warm  and  loose.    They  are  all  annuals  in  northern  countries, 
or  treated  as  such. 

The  Bean  plants  may  be  classified  in  various  ways.  In 
respect  to  stature,  they  may  be  thrown  into  three  general 
categories;  viz.,  the  pole  or  climbing  Beans,  the  bush 
Beans,  and  the  strict -growing  or  upright  Beans  (as  the 
Broad  or  Windsor  Bean).  In  respect  to  their  uses,  Beans 
again  may  be  divided  into  three  categories;  viz.,  those 
which  are  used  as  string  or  snap  Beans,  the  entire  pod 
being  eaten  ;  those  which  are  used  as  shell  Beans,  the 
full-size  but  immature  Beans  being  shelled  from  the  pod 
and  cooked ;  dry  Beans,  or  those  which  are  eaten  in  their 
dry  or  winter  condition.  The  same  variety  of  Bean  may  be 
used  for  all  of  these  three  purposes  at  different  stages  of  its 
development;  but  as  a  matter  of  fact,  there  are  varieties 
which  are  better  for  one  purpose  than  the  other.  Again, 
Beans  may  be  classified  in  respect  to  their  species.  Those 
species  which  are  best  known  are  as  follows  :  (1)  Com- 
mon Bean,  or  Phaseolus  vulgaris,  of  which  there  are  both 
tall  and  bush  forms.  All  the  common  snap  and  string  Beans 
belong  here,  as  also  the  Speckled  Cranberry  types  of  pole 
Beans,  and  the  common  field  Beans.  (2)  The  Lima  Beans, 
or  Phaseolus  lunatus.  The  larger  part  of  these  are  pole 
Beans,  but  lately  dwarf  or  bush  varieties  have  appeared. 
(3)  The  Scarlet  Runner,  Phaseolus  multiflorus,  of  which  the 


BEANS  31 

Scarlet  Runner  and  White  Dutch  Runner  are  familiar  ex- 
amples. The  Scarlet  Runner  is  usually  grown  as  an  orna- 
mental vine,  and  it  is  perennial  in  warm  countries,  but  the 
Beans  are  edible  as  shelled  Beans.  The  White  Dutch 
Runner  is  oftener  cultivated  for  food.  (4)  The  Yard-Long, 
or  Asparagus  Bean,  Doliclios  sesquipedalis,  which  produces 
long  and  weak  vines  and  very  long,  slender  pods.  The 
green  pods  are  eaten,  and  also  the  shelled  Beans.  The 
French  Yard-Long  is  the  only  variety  of  this  type  which  is 
commonly  known  in  this  country.  This  type  of  Bean  is 
popular  in  the  Orient.  (5)  The  Broad  Beans,  of  which  the 
Windsor  is  the  common  type.  These  are  much  grown  in 
the  Old  World  for  stock  feed,  and  they  are  sometimes  used 
for  human  food.  They  grow  to  one  strict,  central,  stiff 
stalk,  to  a  height  of  2-4  or  5  ft.,  and  they  are  very  unlike 
other  kinds  of  Beans  in  appearance.  In  this  country,  they 
are  very  little  grown  on  account  of  our  hot  and  dry  sum- 
mers. In  Canada  they  are  somewhat  grown,  and  are  some- 
times used  in  the  making  of  ensilage. 

The  culture  of  the  Bean,  while  of  the  easiest,  often 
proves  a  failure  as  far  as  the  first  crop  is  concerned,  be- 
cause of  planting  the  seed  before  the  ground  has  become 
warm  and  dry.  No  vegetable  seed  will  decay  quicker  than 
Beans,  and  the  delay  caused  by  waiting  for  the  soil  to  be- 
come warm  and  free  from  excessive  moisture  will  be  more 
than  made  up  by  the  rapidity  of  growth  when  finally  they 
are  planted.  Beans  will  grow  in  most  any  soil,  but  the  best 
results  may  be  obtained  by  having  the  soil  well  enriched 
and  in  good  physical  condition.  From  the  5th  to  the  10th 
of  May  in  the  latitude  of  central  New  York,  it  will  be  safe 
to  plant  Beans  for  an  early  crop.  The  Beans  may  be 
dropped  2  inches  deep  in  shallow  drills,  the  seeds  to  lie  3 
inches  apart.  Cover  to  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  if  the 
ground  be  dry,  firm  it  with  the  foot  or  the  back  of  the  hoe. 
For  the  bush  varieties,  allow  2  ft.  between  the  drill-rows, 
but  for  the  dwarf  Limas  2/£  ft.  is  better.  Pole  Limas  are 


32  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

usually  planted  in  hills  2-3  ft.  apart  in  the  rows.     Dwarf 
Limas  may  be  sown  thinly  in  drills. 

A  large  number  of  the  varieties  of  both  the  green -podded 
and  the  wax-podded  Beans  are  used  almost  exclusively  as 
snap  Beans,  to  be  eaten  with  the  pod  while  tender.     The 
various   strains  of  the   Black    Wax  are   the   most   popular 
string  Beans.     The  pole  or  running  Beans  are  used  either 
green   or  dried,   and  the  Limas,   both  tall  and  dwarf,  are 
well  known  for  their  superior  flavor  either  as  shelled  or 
dry  Beans.     The  old-fashioned  Cranberry  or  Horticultural 
Lima  type  (a  pole  form  of  Phaseolus  vulgaris]  is  probably 
the   best    shell    Bean,  but  the  trouble  of   poling  makes  it 
unpopular.      Dwarf    Limas    are   much   more    desirable    for 
small    gardens    than   the    pole   varieties,   as    they   may   be 
planted   much   closer,  the    bother  of  procuring   poles    and 
twine  is  avoided,  and  the  garden  will  have  a  more  sightly 
appearance.     Both  the  dwarf  Limas  and  pole  Limas  require 
a  longer  season  in  which  to  mature  than  the  bush  varieties, 
and  only  one  planting  is  usually  made.     But  the  bush  va- 
rieties may  be  planted  at  intervals  of  two  weeks  from  the 
first  planting  until  the  10th  of  August.     Each  planting  may 
be  made  on    ground   previously    occupied   by  some  early- 
maturing  crop.     Thus,  the  first  to  third  plantings  may  be  on 
ground  from  which  has  been  harvested  a  crop  of  spinach, 
early  radish  or  lettuce  ;  after  that,  on  ground  where  early 
peas  have  been  grown  ;  and  the  later  sowings  where  beets 
or  early  potatoes  have  grown.     String  Beans  for  canning 
are  usually  taken  from  the  last  crop.     One  quart  of  seed 
will  plant  100  ft.  of  drill  ;  or  1  quart  of  Limas  will  plant 
100  hills. 

Limas  are  the  richest  of  Beans,  but  they  often  fail  to 
mature  in  the  northern  states.  The  land  should  not  be 
very  rich  in  nitrogen  (or  stable  manure),  else  the  plants 
will  run  too  much  to  vine  and  be  too  late.  Select  a  fertile 
sandy  or  gravelly  soil  with  warm  exposure,  use  some  soluble 
commercial  fertiliser  to  start  them  off,  and  give  them  the 


BEAN— BEDDING  33 

best  of  culture;  Aim  to  have  the  pods  set  before  the 
droughts  of  midsummer  come.  Good  trellises  for  Beans 
are  made  by  wool  twine  stretched  between  two  horizontal 
wires,  one  of  which  is  drawn  a  foot  above  the  ground  and 
the  other  6  or  7  ft.  high. 

Bean  plants  are  not  troubled  by  insects  to  any  extent, 
but  they  are  sometimes  attacked  by  blight.  When  this  oc- 
curs, do  not  plant  the  same  ground  to  Beans  again  for 
a  year  or  two. 

Bedding.  This  term  is  used  to  designate  the 
massing  of  plants  in  the  open  ground  for  the  purpose  of 
making  a  bold  display  of  color.  This  color  may  be  obtained 
with  flowers  or  with  strong  effects  of  foliage.  Bedding  is 
ordinarily  a  temporary  species  of  planting;  that  is,  the  bed 
is  filled  anew  each  year.  However,  the  term  may  be  used 
to  designate  a  permanent  plantation  of  plants  which  are 
heavily  massed  so  as  to  give  one  continuous  or  emphatic 
display  of  form  or  color.  Some  of  the  best  permanent  bed- 
ding masses  are  made  of  the  various  hardy  ornamental 
grasses,  as  eulalias,  arundo,  and  the  like. 

Some  bedding  is  very  temporary  in  its  effect.  Especially 
is  this  true  of  spring  Bedding,  in  which  the  plants  used  are 
tulips,  hyacinths,  crocuses  or  other  early-flowering  bulbous 
plants.  In  this  case,  the  ground  is  usually  occupied  later  in 
the  season  by  other  plants.  These  later  plants  are  usually 
annuals,  the  seeds  of  which  are  sown  amongst  the  bulbs  as 
soon  as  the  season  is  far  enough  advanced  ;  or  the  annuals 
may  be  started  in  boxes  and  the  plants  transplanted  amongst 
the  bulbs  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  fit.  Many  of  the  low- 
growing  and  compact,  continuous- flowering  annuals  are  ex- 
cellent for  summer  Bedding  effects.  Some  of  the  best  plants 
for  this  purpose  are  mentioned  in  the  following  list : 

Adonis  sestivalis.  Bartonia  aurea. 

Adonis  autumnalis.  Cacalia. 

Ageratum  Mexicanum.  Calendula  officinalis,  in  sev- 

AgeratumMexicanum, dwarf.  eral  forms. 

C 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Calendula  pluvialis. 
Calendula  Pongei. 
Calendula  sulphurea,  fl.  pi. 
Calendula  suffruticosa. 
Calliopsis  bieolor  marraorata. 
Calliopsis  cardamineefolia. 
Calliopsis  elegans  picta. 
Callirrhoe  involucrata. 
Callirrhoe  pedata  nana. 
Callirrhoe  pedata. 
Centaurea  Americana. 
Centaurea  Cyanus,    Victoria 

Dwarf  Compact. 
Centaurea  Cyanus  minor. 
Centaurea  suaveolens. 
Chrysanthemum      Burridge- 

anum. 

Chrysanthemum  carinatum. 
Chrysanthemum  coronarium. 
Chrysanthemum  tricolor. 
Convolvulus  minor. 
Convolvulus  tricolor. 
Cosmidium  Burridgeanum. 
Delphinium,  single, 
Delphinium,  double. 
Dianthus,  Double  White  Half 

Dwarf  Margaret. 
Dianthus,  Dwarf  Perpetual. 
Dianthus  Caryophyllus  sem- 

perflorens. 

Dianthus  Chinensis,  double. 
Dianthus  dentosus  hybridus. 
Dianthus  Heddewigii. 
Dianthus  imperialis. 
Dianthus  laciniatus,  Salmon 

Queen. 


Dianthus  plumarius.         [pi. 
Dianthus  superbus,  dwarf  fl. 
Dianthus,  Picotee. 
Elscholtzia  cristata. 
'  Eschscholtzia  Californica. 
Eschscholtzia  crocea. 
Eschscholtzia,  Mandarin. 
Eschscholtzia  tenuifolia. 
Gaillardia  picta. 
Gaillardia  picta  Lorenziana. 
Gilia  achilleeefolia. 
Gilia  capitata. 
Gilia  laciniata. 
Gilia  linifolia. 
Gilia  nivalis. 
Gilia  tricolor. 
Godetia  Whitneyi. 
Godetia  grandiflora  maculata. 
Godetia  rubicunda  splendens 
Hibiscus  Africanus. 
Hibiscus,  Golden  Bowl. 
Iberis  affinis. 
Iberis  amara. 
Iberis  coronaria. 
Iberis  umbellata. 
Impatiens  or  Balsam. 
Lavatera  alba. 
Lavatera  trimestris. 
Linum  grandiflorum. 
Madia  elegans. 
Malope  grandiflora. 
Matricaria  eximia  plena. 
Matthiola  or  Stock,  in  many 

forms. 

Matthiola,  Wallflower-leaved. 
Matthiola  bicornis. 


BEDDING 


35 


Nigella  or  Love -in- a- Mist. 
CEnothera  Drummondii. 
(Enothera  Lamarckiana. 
CEnothera  rosea. 
(Enothera  tetraptera. 
Papaver  or  Poppy,  of  many 

kinds. 

Papaver  cardinale. 
Papaver  glaucum. 
Papaver  umbrosum. 
Petunia,  Ring  of  Emerald. 
Phlox  Drummondii,  in  many 

varieties. 
Portulaca. 
Salvia  farinacea. 
Salvia  Horminum. 
Salvia  splendens. 
Schizanthus  papilionaceus, 
Schizanthus  pinnatus. 


Silene  pendula. 

Tagetes  or  Marigold,  in  many 

forms. 

Tagetes  erecta. 
Tagetes  patula. 
Tagetes  signata. 
Tropa3olum,  Dwarf. 
Verbena  auriculeeflora. 
Verbena  Italica  striata. 
Verbena  hybrida. 
Verbena  ccerulea. 
Verbena,  Golden -leaved. 
Viscaria  co3li-rosa. 
Viscaria  elegans  picta. 
Viscaria  oculata. 
Zinnia,  Dwarf. 
Zinnia  elegans  alba. 
Zinnia,  Tom  Thumb. 
Zinnia  Haageana. 
Zinnia  coceinea  plena. 


Silene  Armeria. 

Summer  bedding  is  often  made  by  perennial  plants  which 
are  carried  over  from  the  preceding  year,  or  better,  which 
are  propagated  for  that  particular  purpose  in  February  and 
March.  Such  plants  as  geranium,  coleus,  alyssum,  scarlet 
salvia,  ageratum  and  heliotrope  maybe  used  for  these  beds. 
It  is  a  common  practice  to  use  geranium  plants  which  are  in 
bloom  during  the  winter  for  bedding  out  during  the  sum- 
mer, but  such  plants  are  tall  and  ungainly  in  form  and  have 
expended  the  greater  part  of  their  energies.  It  is  better  to 
propagate  new  plants  by  taking  cuttings  or  slips  late  in  the 
winter  and  setting  out  young,  fresh,  vigorous  subjects. 

Very  bold  and  subtropical  effects  can  be  made  by  plant- 
ing in  the  open  such  things  as  palms,  bananas,  crotons, 
araucarias,  caladiums  and  cannas.  Plants  like  bananas  and 
palms,  which  are  kept  normally  in  pots,  would  better  be  left 
in  the  pots  and  plunged  to  the  rims  rather  than  turned  out 


36  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

directly  into  the  soil.  In  order  to  attain  quick  and  continu- 
ous effects,  it  is  advisable  to  set  the  plants  rather  close. 
As  such  plants  are  likely  to  be  injured  by  strong  winds,  it 
is  well  to  have  subtropical  beds  in  a  somewhat  protected 
place. 

Another  type  of  bed  is  that  which  attempts  to  make 
patterns  or  designs,  or  carpet-bedding.  There  are  com- 
paratively few  plants  which  are  adapted  to  this  purpose, 
for  the  plants  must  be  such  as  will  stand  shearing  and  which 
have  very  strong  and  constant  colors  of  foliage.  The  most 
popular  bedding  plants  are  coleus  (particularly  the  yellow 
Golden  Bedder)  achyranthes,  alternanthera,  Centaurea 
gymnocarpa,  and  such  succulent  plants  as  the  house  leeks. 
Some  of  the  annual  flowers  may  also  be  used  for  strong 
color  effects,  as  Lobelia  Erinus  and  sweet  alyssum.  Ordi- 
narily the  making  of  carpet-beds  should  be  left  to  profes- 
sional gardeners,  since  it  requires  much  skill  and  care  to 
make  and  keep  the  beds  in  perfect  condition ;  and  a  ragged 
or  imperfect  carpet-bed  is  worse  than  no  bed  at  all.  Carpet- 
beds  are  really  curiosities,  and  they  have  no  more  legitimate 
place  in  the  general  pictorial  landscape  design  area  than 
painted  stones  or  sheared  evergreens.  Therefore,  they 
should  be  placed  by  themselves  at  one  side,  where  they  do  not 
interfere  with  the  general  design  of  the  place.  In  public 
parks  they  make  a  very  useful  attraction  when  set  off  by 
themselves,  the  same  as  zoological  gardens  or  other  attrac- 
tions do. 

Beefsteak  Geranium  is  Begonia. 

Beets.  Being  one  of  the  hardiest  of  spring 
vegetables,  the  seed  may  be  sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
the  ground  can  be  worked.  A  light,  sandy  soil  is  the  best 
on  which  to  grow  Beets  to  perfection,  but  any  well  tilled 
garden  soil  will  raise  satisfactory  crops.  On  heavy  soil  the 
turnip  Beet  gives  the  best  results,  as  the  growth  is  nearly 
all  at  or  above  the  surface.  The  long  varieties,  having 
tapering  roots  running  deep  into  the  soil,  are  apt  to  be  mis- 


BEET — BEGONIA  37 

shapen  unless  the  physical  condition  of  the  soil  is  such  that 
the  roots  meet  with  little  obstruction.  A  succession  of  sow- 
ings should  be  made,  at  intervals  of  from  two  to  three  weeks, 
until  late  summer,  as  the  Beets  are  much  more  desirable 
in  their  young  stage  than  when  they  have  become  old  and 
woody.  The  Mangel-Wurzel  and  the  Sugar  Beet  are  usually 
grown  as  a  field  crop,  and  will  not  enter  into  the  calculations 
of  the  home  garden. 

In  order  to  hasten  the  season  of  the  extra- early  crop  of 
Beets,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or  in  the  soil  of  a 
hotbed  in  February  or  March,  transplanting  the  small  plants 
to  the  open  ground  at  the  time  the  first  sowing  of  seed  is 
made.  As  the  flat  or  turnip -rooted  varieties  grow  at  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  the  seed  may  be  sown  thickly,  and  as 
the  more  advanced  roots  are  large  enough  to  use  they  may 
be  pulled,  leaving  room  for  the  later  ones  to  develop,  thus 
growing  a  quantity  in  a  small  area  and  having  a  long  season 
of  small  Beets  from  one  sowing.  For  winter  use 
the  late  July  sown  seed  will  give  the  best  roots, 
growing  through  the  cool  month8  of  the  fall  t<5  a 
medium  size  and  remaining  firm  without  being 
tough  or  stringy.  These  may  be  dug  up  after 
light  frosts  and  before  any  severe  cold  weather, 
and  stored  in  barrels  or  boxes  in  the  cellar,  using 
enough  dry  dirt  to  fill  spaces  between  the  roots 
and  cover  them  to  the  depth  of  6  inches.  These 
roots,  thus  packed  in  a  cool  cellar,  will  be  fit  to 
use  through  the  entire  winter  months.  When  it 
can  be  had,  florists'  or  sphagnum  moss  is  an  ex-  Early 
cellent  medium  in  which  to  pack  roots  for  winter. 

The  early  round  or  turnip  varieties  are  best  for  early  and 
summer  use.  The  Long  Blood  Beets  may  be  used  for  stor- 
ing, but  these  require  a  longer  season  of  growth. 

Begonias.  Tender  bedding  and  house  plants. 
Next  to  the  geranium,  Begonias  are  probably  the  most  pop- 
ular for  house  culture  of  the  entire  plant  list.  The  ease  of 


38  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

culture,  profusion  of  bloom  or  richness  of  foliage,  together 
with  their  adaptability  to  shade,  make  them  very  desirable. 

Begonias  maybe  divided  into  three  sections:  the  fibrous - 
rooted  class,  which  contains  the  winter- flowering  varieties; 
the  tuberous-rooted,  those  which 
bloom  through  the  summer,  the 
tuber  resting  through  the  winter; 
and  the  Rex  forms,  or  Beefsteak 
Geraniums,  having  large  ornamental 
leaves. 

The  fibrous -rooted  kinds  may  be 
propagated  by  seed  or  cuttings,  the 
latter  being  the  usual  method.    Cut- 
tings of  half-ripened  wood  root  eas- 
Fibrous-rooted  B^ia  il?>    making   a    rapid    growth,  the 

plants  flowering  in  a  few  months. 

The  tuberous -rooted  varieties  are  propagated  by  division 
of  the  tuber  or  from  seed,  the  former  being  rarely  done  ex- 
cept to  increase  the  stock  of  some  extra  fine  variety.  The 
seeds,  like 'those  of  all  Begonias,  are  very  small,  and 
should  be  sown  with  great  care.  Simply  sprinkle  them  on 
the  surface  of  the  soil,  which  should  be  a  mixture  of  leaf- 
mold  and  sand,  with  the  addition  of  a  small  amount  of  fibrous 
ioam.  Watering  should  be  done  by  setting  the  pot  or  box 
in  which  the  seeds  are  sown  in  water,  allowing  the  moisture 
to  ascend  through  the  soil.  When  the  soil  has  become  com- 
pletely saturated,  set  the  box  in  a  shady  situation,  covering 
it  with  glass  or  some  other  object  until  the  tiny  seedlings 
appear.  Never  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry.  The  seedlings 
should  be  transplanted,  as  soon  as  they  can  be  handled,  into 
boxes  or  pots  containing  the  same  mixture  of  soil,  setting 
each  plant  down  to  the  seed-leaf.  They  will  need  three  or 
four  transplantings  before  they  reach  the  blooming  stage, 
and  at  each  one  after  the  first,  the  amount  of  fibrous  loam 
may  be  increased  until  the  soil  is  composed  of  one-third 
each  of  loam,  sand  and  leaf-mold.  The  addition  of  a  little 


BEGONIA — BLACKBERRIES  39 

well  rotted  manure  may  be  made  at  the  last  transplanting. 
These  tuberous -rooted  Begonias  make  superior  bedding 
plants  if  given  a  shady  situation  and  deep  soil ;  but  for  the 
amateur  they  are  perhaps  better  grown  as  pot-plants,  for 
one  is  able  to  give  them  better  conditions  by  that  method. 
The  flowers  are  both  double  and  single, 
ranging  in  color  from  pure  white  and  yellow 
to  pink  and  red.  After  flowering  the  plants 
will  die  down  and  the  tubers,  after  drying 
off,  may  be  placed  in  a  dry,  warm  place 
until"  spring. 

The  Rex  type,  having  no  branches,  is 
propagated  from  the  leaves.  The  large  ma- 
ture leaves  are  used.  The  leaf  may  be  cut  Rex  Begonia 
into  sections  having  at  the  base  a  union  of 
two  ribs.  These  pieces  of  leaves  may  be  inserted  in  the  sand 
as  any  other  cutting.  Or  a  whole  leaf  may  be  used,  cutting 
through  the  ribs  at  intervals  and  laying  the  leaf  flat  on  the 
propagating  bench  or  other  warm,  moist  place.  In  a  short 
time  young  plants  having  roots  of  their  own  will  form. 
These  may  be  potted  when  large  enough  to  handle,  and  will 
soon  make  good  sized  plants.  Kex  Begonias  usually  grow 
little  during  winter.  Be  sure  that  the  pots  are  well  drained, 
so  that  the  soil  does  not  become  sour.  New  plants — those 
a  year  or  so  old — are  usually  most  satisfactory.  Keep  them 
away  from  direct  sunlight. 

An  insidious  disease  of  Begonia  leaves  has  recently  made 
its  appearance.     The  best  treatment  yet  known  is  to  propa- 
gate  fresh  plants,  throwing  away  the  old  stock 
e  ^^  *n  w^cn  it  ig  grown. 

Bellis   Perennis-     See   Daisy. 
Blackberries-     The  one  essential  to 

tlie-   successful   growing   of  Blackberries  is   a 
moist  soil, — not  one  in  which  water  will  stand, 
but  one  rich  enough  in  humus  to  hold  sufficient 
Ancient  Briton  Blackberry  moisture  to  carry  the  crop  through  the  grow- 


40 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Shears  for  cutting  out 
old  canes 


ing  season.     It  is  usually  found  best  to  plant  in  the  fall, 
earthing  up  slightly  around  the  plants.     The  distance  be- 
tween the  plants  should  be  regulated  by  the  variety.    The 
smaller-growing  kinds  fas  Early  Harvest  and  Wilson)  may 
be  planted  4x7  ft.,  the  rank-growing  varieties 
(as    Snyder)  6x8  ft.      Thorough    cultivation 
throughout  the  season  will  help  in  a  material 
degree  to  hold  the  moisture  necessary  to  per- 
fect a  good  crop.     The  soil  should  be  culti- 
vated very  shallow,  however,  so  as  not  to  dis- 
turb the  roots,  as  the  breaking  of  the  roots 
starts  a  large  number  of  suckers  that  have  to 
be  cut  out  and  destroyed. 

Blackberries,  like  dewberries  and  raspber- 
ries, bear  but  one  crop  on  the  cane.  That  is, 
canes  which  spring  up  this  year  bear  next  year. 
From  3  to  6  canes  are  sufficient  to  be  left  in  each 
hill.  The  superfluous  ones  are  thinned  out  soon 
after  they  start  from  the  ground.  The  old  canes 
should  be  cut  out  soon  after  fruiting  and  burned. 
The  new  shoots  should  be  pinched  back  at  the 
height  of  2  or  3  ft.  if  the  plants  are  to  support 
themselves.  If  to  be  fastened  to  wires,  they  may 
be  allowed  to  grow  throughout  the  season  and  be 

cut  back  when  tied  to  the  wires  in  winter  or  early 
spring.  Tools  for  the  cutting  out  of.  the  old  canes 
are  well  represented  in  the  pictures.  Shears  are  used 
for  shortening- in  the  canes. 

Blackberry  plants  are  sometimes  laid  down  in  cold 
climates, — the  tops  being  bent  over  and  held  to  the 
ground  by  earth  or  sods  thrown  on  their  tips. 

Snvder  is  the  most  popular  commercial  variety: 

Knife  hook 

for  cutting  out   but  Agawam,  Ancient  Briton,  Taylor,  and  others  are 
better  in  quality.     A  new  patch  should  be  planted 
every  five  or  six  years. 

Blue   Bottle.     See  Centaurea 


Shears  for  heading- 
in  bushes 


BORDEAUX  MIXTURE  41 

Bordeaux  Mixture  is  a  fungicide,  used  to  com- 
bat mildews,  leaf-diseases,  blights,  etc.  It  is  sprayed  on 
the  plants  with  a  spray  pump  or  syringe,  or  it  may  be  ap- 
plied with  a  whisk  broom.  Apply  enough  of  it  so  that  the 
foliage  looks  blue.  It  is  made  as  follows  :  Copper  sulfate, 
6  pounds;  quicklime,  4  pounds;  water,  40  to  50  gallons. 
Dissolve  the  copper  sulfate  by  putting  it  into  a  bag  of  coarse 
cloth  and  hanging  this  in  a  vessel  holding  at  least  four  gal- 
lons, so  that  it  is  just  covered  by  the  water.  Use  an 
earthen  or  wooden  vessel.  Slake  the  lime  in  an  equal 
amount  of  water.  Then  mix  the  two  and  add  enough 
water  to  make  40  gallons.  It  is  then  ready  for  imme- 
diate use,  but  will  keep  for  some  time.  If  the  mixture 
is  to  be  used  on  peach  foliage,  it  is  advisable  to  add  an 
extra  pound  of  lime  to  the  above  formula.  When  ap- 
plied to  such  plants  as  carnations  or  cabbages,  it  will 
adhere  better  if  a  pound  of  hard  soap  is  dissolved  in 
hot  water  and  added  to  the  mixture.  For  rots,  molds, 
mildews,  and  all  fungous  diseases. 

Whilst  Bordeaux  Mixture  is  the  best  general  fungicide, 
it  discolors  the  plants  until  it  washes  off.  On  ornamental 
plants,  therefore,  a  colorless  fungicide  may  be  preferable. 
In  such  cases,  use  the  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper 
solution,  as  follows  :  Copper  carbonate,  1  ounce;  ammonia, 
1  volume  26°  Beaume,  %  volumes  water  (enough  to  dissolve 
the  copper) ;  water,  9  gallons.  The  copper  carbonate  is  best 
dissolved  in  large  bottles,  where  it  will  keep  indefinitely, 
and  it  should  be  diluted  with  water  as  required.  For  the 
same  purposes  as  Bordeaux  Mixture. 

Border.  The  word  border  is  used  to  designate 
the  heavy  or  continuous  planting  about  the  boundaries  of  a 
place,  or  along  the  walks  and  drives,  or  against  the  build- 
ings, in  distinction  from  planting  on  the  lawn  or  in  the  in- 
terior spaces.  A  border  receives  different  designations, 
depending  upon  the  kinds  of  plants  which  are  grown 
therein;  that  is,  it  may  be  a  shrub  border,  a  flower 


42  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

border,  a  hardy  border  for  native  and  other  hardy  plants, 
a  vine  border,  and  the  like.     As  a  rule,   the  most    effective 
planting  is  that  which  is  thrown  into  masses,  for  one  plant 
reinforces  the  other,  and  the   flowers  have  a  good  setting 
or  background.     Very  striking  displays  of  foliage  and  flowers 
and  plant  forms  can  be  made  when  massed  together.     As  a 
rule,  plants  are  more  easily  grown  when  planted  in  a  border, 
since  the  whole  area  can  be  kept  cultivated  with  ease ;  and 
if  a  plant  becomes  weak  or  dies,  its  place  is  readily  filled 
by  the  neighboring  plants  spreading  into  it.     Planting  in 
masses    is  also  essential  to  the   best    arrangement   of   the 
yard,  since   the   basis  of   any  landscape  is 
a  more  or  less  continuous  greensward  (see 
Lawn).      The    house  occupies   the    central 
part   of  the  area,  and  the  sides  are  heavily 
massed  or  planted  so  as  to  make  a  frame- 
work   for    the   whole   place.      The   border 
may  be  mixed, —that  is,  composed  of  a  great 
variety  of  plants, — or  it  may  be  made  up  of 
one  continuous  thing.      In  long  and    very 

Planting  by  the  steps  .  •*.•»*.        i_  L      v.  J.T. 

striking  borders,  it  is  often  best  to  have  the 
background  —  that  is,  the  back  row —of  one  general  type  of 
plant  in  order  to  give  continuity  and  strength  to  the  whole 
group.  In  front  of  this  a  variety  of  plants  may  be  set,  if 
one  desire. 

The  land  should  be  rich.  The  whole  ground  should  be 
plowed  or  spaded  and  the  plants  set  irregularly  in  the 
space  ;  or  the  back  row  may  be  set  in  a  line.  If  the  border 
is  composed  of  shrubs,  and  is  large,  a  horse  cultivator  may 
be  run  in  and  out  between  the  plants  for  the  first  two  or 
three  years,  since  the  shrubs  will  be  set  from  2  to  4  ft. 
apart.  Ordinarily,  however,  the  cultivating  is  done  by  hand 
tools.  After  the  plants  are  once  established  and  the  border 
is  filled,  it  is  best  to  dig  up  as  little  as  possible,  for  the 
digging  disturbs  the  roots  and  breaks  off  the  crowns.  It  is 
usually  best  to  pull  out  the  weeds  and  give  the  border  a 


BORDER  43 

top-dressing  each  fall  of  well  rotted  manure.  If  the  ground 
is  not  very  rich,  a  sprinkling  of  ashes  or  some  commercial 
fertilizer  may  be  given  from  time  to  time.  The  border 
should  be  planted  so  thick  as  to  allow  the  plants  to  run 
together,  thereby  giving  one  continuous  effect.  Most 
shrubs  should  be  set  3  feet  apart.  Things  as  large  as 
lilacs  may  go  4  feet  and  sometimes  even  more.  Common 
herbaceous  perennials,  like  bleeding  heart,  delphiniums, 
hollyhocks,  and  the  like,  should  go  from  12  to  18  inches. 
On  the  front  edge  of  the  border  is  a  very  excellent 
place  for  annual  and  tender  flowering  plants.  Here, 
for  example,  one  may  make  a  fringe  of  asters,  gera- 
niums, coleus,  or  anything  else  which  he  may  choose  (see 
Flower  Beds). 

The  border  is  an  excellent  place  in  which  to  colonize 
native  or  other  interesting  plants.  A  person  comes  across 
an  attractive  plant  on  his  tramp  and  wishes  it  were  in  his 
garden.  Whatever  the  time  of  year,  he  may  break  off  the 
top  close  to  the  ground,  take  up  the  roots  and  plant  them 
in  the  border.  If  a  little  attention  is  given  to  the  plant  for 
the  first  two  or  three  weeks,  as  watering  or  mulching  or 
shading,  it  should  become  established  and  give  satisfac- 
tory bloom  the  following  year.  Two-thirds  of  the  herbs 
which  one  would  take  up  in  this  way,  even  in  midsummer, 
should  grow.  Into  the  heavy  borders  about  the  boundaries 
of  the  place  the  autumn  leaves  will  drift  and  afford  an  ex- 
cellent mulch.  If  these  borders  are  planted  with  shrubs, 
the  leaves  may  be  left  there  to  decay,  and  not  be  raked  off  in 
the  spring.  The  general  outline  of  the  border  facing  the 
lawn  should  be  more  or  less  wavy  or  irregular,  particularly 
if  it  is  on  the  boundary  of  the  place.  Alongside  a  walk  or 
drive,  the  margins  may  follow  the  general  directions  of  the 
walk  or  drive. 

There  are  three  rules  for  the  choosing  of  plants  for  a 
hardy  border.  Choose  (1)  those  which  you  like  best,  (2) 
those  which  are  adapted  to  the  climate  and  soil,  (3)  those 


44  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

which  are   in   place  or  in  keeping  with  that    part   of   the 
grounds.     See  Herbs,  Shrubs,  Trees. 

Borecole   is    Kale. 

Borers.  There  is  no  sovereign  remedy  for 
borers  except  to  dig  them  out.  Do  not  rely  upon  washes  or 
other  applications.  If  trees  are  examined  two  or  three 
times  a  year,  it  is  not  a  laborious  undertaking  to  dig  them 
out,  as  they  will  not  be  deep  in  the  wood.  If  they  do  get 
deep  in  the  wood,  thrust  a  wire  into  the  burrow.  By  the 
chips  cast  from  the  holes,  or  by  the  dead  bark,  the  presence 
of  borers  may  be  detected.  Apple  and  peach  trees  are  par- 
ticularly liable  to  attack.  The  flat-headed  apple-tree  borer 
works  just  underneath  the  bark  on  any  part  of  the  trunk  or 
large  branches.  The  round-headed  apple-tree  borer  eats 
into  the  wood  at  the  crown. 

Boxes  of  many  sizes  can  be  utilized  in  which 
to  grow  plants.  Excellent  effects  of  bulbs  and  annuals  may 
be  had  in  old  soap  boxes.  The  boxes  may  be  placed  in 
the  best  situations  for  the  growth  of  the  plants,  and  they 
can  receive  better  attention  than  the  large  flower  bed. 
Vines  planted  about  the  edge  will  hide  the  sides, —  such 
vines  as  Kenil worth  ivy,  moneywort,  maurandya,  trailing 
fuchsia,  and  the  like. 

Brachycome.     See  Swan   River  Daisy. 

Broccoli.  This  is  almost  identical  with  the 
Cauliflower,  except  that  it  usually  requires  a  longer  season 
and  matures  in  the  fall.  It  is  grown  more  generally  in 
Europe  than  in  this  country.  The  special  merit  of  Broc- 
coli is  its  adaptability  for  late  summer  planting  and  its 
rapid  growth  in  the  late  fall.  It  is  said  that  a  large 
proportion  of  Broccoli  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
pickles.  The  culture  is  the  same  as  for  Cauliflower, —  deep, 
moist  soil  well  enriched,  cool  weather,  and  the  destruction 
of  the  cabbage  worm. 


BROCCOLI — BUDDING  45 

The  young  plants  may  be  grown  in  a  coldfrarae  or  in  a 
well  protected  border,  sowing  the  seed  about  the  15th  of 
May,  transplanting  into  rows  in  July.  In  sections  in  which 
early  fall  frosts  are  not  to  be  feared,  the  plants  may  be  set 
two  weeks  later,  say  August  1,  as  all  vegetables  of  the 
cabbage  family  make  the  best  growth  through  the  cool 
months  of  September  and  October.  The  plants  should  be 
set  18  in.  apart  in  the  rows,  the  rows  being  from  2%  ft.  to  3 
ft.  apart. 

Browallia  elata  is  a  very  fine  tender  annual, 
giving  a  border  or  mixed  bed  a  dash  of  amethyst  blue  not 
often  found  in  flowers.  It  is  a  strong -growing  plant  with  a 
profusion  of  bloom,  and  no  doubt  one  of  the  choicest  plants 
of  its  color  in  cultivation.  There  are  other  species  with 
white  flowers  that  serve  as  contrast,  and  may  be  grown 
with  this.  All  of  the  kinds  may  be  taken  up  and  potted 
in  the  fall,  cutting  the  plant  well  back,  and  a  profusion 
of  bloom  may  be  obtained  through  the  winter  months  if 
attention  is  given  to  pinching  off  the  seed  pods.  In  the 
garden,  let  the  plants  stand  12  in.  apart.  The  plants  grow 
1-2  ft.  high. 

Brussels   Sprouts.     This   is   a  vegetable   that 

should  be  more  generally  known,  as  it  is  one  of  the 
choicest  of  the  cabbage  family,  and  may  be  had  at  its 
best  after  the  season  for  cauliflower  has  passed.  It  is 
the  better  for  being  touched  by  the  fall  frosts.  The 
parts  used  are  the  buttons  or  sprouts  (miniature  cabbage 
heads)  that  grow  thickly  along  the  stem.  These  should 
be  cut  off  rather  than  broken.  The  very  small  hard 
"sprouts"  or  buttons  are  the  best.  The  culture  is  essen- 
tially the  same  as  for  late  cabbage  or  broccoli.  One  ounce 
will  sow  100  ft.  of  drill,  or  make  upward  of  2,000  plants. 
Set  plants  in  field  2-3  ft.  apart.  They  require  the  entire 
season  in  which  to  grow. 

Budding.     See  Grafting. 


46  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Bulbs.  The  outdoor  culture  of  bulbs  is  ex- 
tremely simple.  They  care  for  themselves  throughout  a 
greater  part  of  the  year,  many  of  them  flowering  when  no 
other  plants  are  able  to  grow  and  bloom  out  of  doors. 

While  all  the  so-called  Holland  bulbs  will  thrive  in  any 
kind  of  soil,  they  will  all  do  better  by  being  planted  in  a 
deep,  sandy  soil  well  enriched  with  well  rotted  manure. 
But  do  not  let  the  manure  come  into  direct  contact  with  the 
bulb.  Even  heavy  clay  soil  may  be  fitted  for  the  growing  of 
bulbs  by  the  addition  of  sharp  sand,  either  worked  into  the 
soil  or  placed  directly  under  the  bulb  when  planted.  To 
make  a  buU)  bed,  choose,  if  possible,  a  sandy  soil  and  throw 
out  the  top  soil  to  the  depth  of  6  in.  Put  into  the  bottom 
of  the  bed  about  2  in.  of  well  rotted  manure  and  spade  it 
into  the  soil.  Throw  back  half  of  the  top  soil,  level  it  off 
nicely,  set  the  bulbs  firmly  on  this  bed  and  then  cover  them 
with  the  balance  of  the  soil  ;  in  this  way  one  will  have  the 
bulbs  from  3  to  4  in.  below  the  surface.  In  the  fall  months 
the  top  of  the  ground  is  cooler  than  at  the  depth  of  5  or  6 
in.  and  the  top  of  the  bulb  will  not  want  to  grow,  while  the 
bottom,  which  is  always  in  a  hurry,  will  send  out  roots, 
to  push  out  the  leaves  and  flowers  the  next  spring.  When 
the  weather  is  cold  enough  to  freeze  a  hard  crust  on  the 
soil,  the  bed  should  have  its  winter  overcoat.  This  may  be 
straw,  hay,  cornstalks  or  leaves  spread  over  the  bed  to  the 
depth  of  6  in.  if  the  material  is  coarse  ;  but  if  leaves 
are  used,  3  in.  will  be  enough,  because  the  leaves  lay  close 
together  and  may  smother  out  the  frost  that  is  in  the 
ground  and  let  the  bulbs  start.  What  we  want  is  to  keep 
them  asleep  until  spring,  because  if  they  start  too  early  the 
hard  freezes  of  March  and  early  April  will  spoil  their  beauty 
if  the  leaves  or  flowers  are  near  or  above  the  surface. 
Early  in  April,  in  New  York,  the  covering  may  be  removed 
gradually,  and  should  all  be  off  the  beds  before  the  leaves 
show  above  the  ground. 

If   there  is   no  sandy  place  for  the    beds,   make    them 


BULBS  47 

as  directed,  leaving  the  stones  in  the  bottom  of  the  bed 
for  drainage.  Then,  when  ready  to  set  the  bulb,  place 
a  large  handful  of  sand  where  the  bulb  is  to  go  and  set  the 
bulb  on  it.  This  will  keep  the  water  from  standing  around 
the  bulb.  Very  fine  results  may  be  had  on  heavy  soil  by 
this  method. 

As  to  kinds  of  bulbs,  select  hyacinths,  tulips  or  nar- 
cissus or  daffodils,  with  snowdrops  or  crocuses  of  various 
colors  around  the  edge.  For  the  culture  of  these  and  other 
bulbs,  see  the  various  articles  throughout  the  book. 

The  growing  of  flowering  bulbs  through  the  winter  adds 
to  the  list  of  house  plants  a  charming  variety.  The  labor, 
time  and  skill  required  is  much  less  than  that  of  growing 
many  of  the  larger  plants  more  commonly  used  for  win- 
ter decorations.  The  larger  number  of  winter  bulbs  may 
be  left  out  of  doors  until  within  four  to  six  weeks  of  the 
time  when  they  are  wanted  in  flower.  Hyacinths,  narcissus, 
tulips,  and  crocus  can  be  made  to  flower  in  the  winter 
without  difficulty.  Secure  the  bulbs  so  as  to  be  able  to  pot 
them  by  the  middle  or  last  of  October,  or  if  earlier  all  the 
better.  The  soil  should  be  rich,  sandy  loam,  if  possible;  if 
not,  the  best  one  can  get,  to  which  add  about  one -fourth 
the  bulk  of  sand  and  mix  thoroughly.  If  ordinary  flower 
pots  are  to  be  used,  put  in  the  bottom  a  few  pieces  of 
broken  pots,  charcoal  or  small  stones  for  drainage,  then  fill 
the  pot  with  dirt  so  that  when  the  bulbs  are  set  on  the  dirt 
the  top  of  the  bulb  is  even  with  the  rim  of  the  pot.  Fill 
around  it  with  soil,  leaving  just  the  tip  of  the  bulb  showing 
above  the  dirt.  If  the  soil  is  heavy,  a  good  plan  is  to 
sprinkle  a  small  handful  of  sand  under  the  bulb  to  carry  off 
the  water,  'the  same  as  is  done  in  the  beds  outdoors.  If  one 
.does  not  have  pots  he  may  use  boxes.  Starch  boxes  are  a 
good  size  to  use,  as  they  are  not  heavy  to  handle  ;  and  ex- 
cellent flowers  are  sometimes  obtained  from  bulbs  planted 
in  old  tomato  cans.  If  boxes  or  cans  are  used,  care  must 
be  taken  to  have  holes  in  the  bottoms  to  let  the  water  run 


48  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

out.  A  large  size  hyacinth  bulb  will  do  well  in  a  5 -inch 
pot.  The  same  size  pot  will  do  for  three  or  four  narcissuses 
or  eight  to  twelve  crocuses. 

After  the  bulbs  are  planted  in  the  pots  or  other  recep- 
tacles, they  should  be  placed  in  a  cool  place,  either  in  a 
cold  pit  or  cellar,  or  on  the  shady  side  of  a  building,  or, 
better  yet,  plunged  or  buried  up  to  the  rim  of  the  pot  in  a 
shady  border.  This  is  done  to  force  the  roots  to  grow 
while  the  top  stands  still ;  as  only  the  bulbs  with  good  roots 
will  give  good  flowers.  When  the  weather  gets  so  cold  that 
a  crust  is  frozen  on  the  soil,  the  pots  should  be  covered 
with  a  little  straw,  and  as  the  weather  gets  colder  more 
straw  must  be  used.  In  from  six  to  eight  weeks  after 
planting  the  bulbs,  they  should  have  made  roots  enough  to 
grow  the  plant,  and  they  may  be  taken  up  and  placed  in  a 
cool  room  for  a  week  or  so,  after  which,  if  they  have 
started  into  growth,  they  may  be  taken  into  a  warmer  room 
where  they  can  have  plenty  of  light.  They  will  grow  very 
rapidly  now  and  will  want  lots  of  water,  and  after  the 
flowers  begin  to  show,  the  pots  may  stand  in  a  saucer  of 
water  all  the  time.  When  just  coming  into  bloom  the 
plants  may  have  full  sunlight  part  of  the  time  to  help 
bring  out  the  color  of  the  flowers. 

Bushes.     See  Shrubs. 

Cabbage.  For  an  early  crop,  the  plants  must  be 
started  either  in  February  or  early  March,  or  the  previous 
September  and  wintered  over  in  coldframes.  This  latter 
method  was  once  a  common  practice  by  gardeners  near  large 
cities,  but  the  building  of  greenhouses  to  replace  the  many 
hotbeds  of  the  market -gardener  has  changed  the  practice 
in  many  localities,  and  now  most  of  the  early  Cabbages 
in  the  north  are  grown  from  seed  sown  in  January,  Feb- 
ruary or  March.  The  plants  are  hardened  off  in  March  and 
early  April  and  planted  out  as  early  as  possible.  The  pri- 
vate grower,  or  one  with  a  small  garden,  may  often  procure 
his  early  plants  from  the  market-gardener  much  cheaper 


CABBAGE  49 

than  he  can  grow  them,  as  usually  only  a  limited  number  of 
early  Cabbage  plants  are  wanted ;  but  for  the  midseason  and 
main  crop,  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  May  or  June,  setting 
the  plants  in  July. 

For  early  planting,  the  number  of  varieties  is  limited  to 
three  or  four.  For  an  intermediate  crop  the  list  is  more 
extended,  and  the  late  varieties  are  very  numerous.  The 
early  list  is  headed  by  the  Jersey  Wakefield,  a  variety  which 
heads  very  quickly,  and,  although  not  one  of  the  solid 
kinds,  is  generally  grown.  The  Early 
York  and  Winnigstadt  are  good  varie- 
ties to  follow  it.  The  latter  especially 
is  solid  and  of  very  good  quality.  For 
the  midseason,  the  Succession  and  All 
Season  are  of  the  best,  and  for  the  win- 
ter supply  the  Drumhead,  Danish  Ball 
and  Flat  Dutch  types  are  the  leaders.  Early  ca 

One  of  the  best  of  the  Cabbages  for 
table  use  is  seldom  seen  in  the  garden  —  the  Savoy  Cabbage. 
It  is  a  type  with  netted  leaves,  making  a  large,  low-growing 
head,  the  center  of  which  is  very  solid  and  of  excellent 
flavor,  especially  late  in  the  fall,  when  the  heads  have  had 
a  slight  touch  of  frost.  Savoy  should  be  grown  in  every 
private  garden. 

The  seed-bed  should  be  made  mellow  and  rich.  A  good 
border  will  do.  The  seed  is  sown  preferably  in  rows,  thus 
allowing  thinning  of  the  plants  and  the  pulling  of  any 
weeds  that  germinate.  The  young  plants  will  well  repay 
attention  to  watering  and  thinning.  The  rows  should  be  3 
or  4  in.  apart.  When  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  trans 
plant,  they  may  be  planted  where  early  vegetables  have 
been  grown.  Set  the  plants  from  18  to  24  in.  apart  in  the 
row,  the  rows  being  3  ft.  apart  for  the  medium-growing 
kinds.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  furnish  about  two  thousand 
plants.  All  Cabbages  require  deep  and  rich  soil,  and  one 
that  holds  moisture  well, 


50  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  best  remedy  for  the  Cabbage  worm  is  to  kill  the 
first  brood  on  the  very  young  plants  with  Paris  green. 
After  the  plants  begin  to  head,  pyrethrum  or  salt  water 
may  be  used.  On  a  small  area,  hand-picking  may  be 
recommended. 

The  maggot  is  the  most  serious  Cabbage  pest.  After 
studying  the  seventy  odd  remedies  proposed,  Slingerland 
concludes  that  6  are  efficient  and  practicable  :  growing  the 
young  plants  in  closely  covered  frames ;  tarred  paper  cards 
placed  snugly  about  the  base  of  the  plants  to  keep  the  fly 
away  ;  rubbing  the  eggs  from  the  base  of  the  plant ;  hand- 
picking  of  the  maggots;  treating  the  plants  with  emulsion 
of  carbolic  acid;  treating  them  with  carbon  bisulfide.  The 
insecticidal  materials  are  injected  or  poured  into  the  soil 
about  the  base  of  the  plant. 

Respecting  these  two  insecticides,  Slingerland  remarks: 
"Always  use  the  crude  carbolic  acid,  as  it  is  much  cheaper 
than  the  purified  and  is  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as  effective. 
It  will  probably  be  safer  if  used  as  an  emulsion  than  if 
simply  diluted  with  water.  We  would  advise  that  it  be 
made  by  the  follow  formula  :  1  pound  of  hard  soap  or  1 
quart  of  soft  soap  dissolved  in  1  gallon  of  boiling  water,  into 
which  1  pint  of  crude  carbolic  acid  is  then  poured  and  the 
whole  mass  agitated  into  an  emulsion,  which  will  remain  in 
this  condition  for  a  long  time.  In  treating  the  plants,  take 
one  part  of  this  standard  emulsion  and  dilute  it  with  30 
equal  parts  of  water;  it  probably  can  be  used  stronger  with- 
out injury  to  the  plants.  If  the  emulsion  is  cold  and  semi- 
solid,  use  several  parts  of  warm  water  at  first.  Begin  the 
treatment  early,  a  day  or  two  after  the  plants  are  up,  or  in 
the  case  of  Cabbages  and  Cauliflowers  the  next  day  after 
they  are  set  in  the  field,  and  repeat  it  once  each  week  or  10 
days  until  about  May  20  in  our  state.  While  we  have  little 
faith  in  the  preventive  effects  of  the  early  treatments,  we  do 
believe  that  the  emulsion  will  then  kill  many  of  the  eggs 
and  recently  hatched,  maggots-  If  it  could  be  applied,  with 


CABBAGE   MAGGOT  51 

some  force  through  a  syringe  or  force  pump,  it  might  not  be 
necessary  to  go  to  the  trouble  of  first  removing  some  of  the 
earth  from  about  the  plants.  It  must  be  remembered  that 
its  success  will  depend  on  the  eggs  or  maggots  being  hit 
with  it.  None  of  the  Cabbages  in  our  experiment  were  in- 
jured in  the  least  by  an  application  containing  nearly  twice 
as  much  of  the  acid,  and  there  is  but  little  danger  of  its 
injuring  the  tenderest  foliage  of  radishes,  turnips  or  onions; 
if  any  injury  manifests  itself  on  these  crops,  dilute  the 
emulsion  with  40  or  50  or  more  parts  of  water,  instead  of  30. 
A  knapsack  or  wheelbarrow  sprayer  would  prove  a  very  use- 
ful instrument  in  applying  the  emulsion  on  a  large  scale." 

The  carbon  bisulfide  is  best  injected  into  the  soil  by 
means  of  a  long-nosed  syringe.  Slingerland  (Cornell  Bulletin 
78)  illustrates  a  specially  made  syringe  or  injector  for  this 
purpose  :  "Thus  Cabbage  plants  can  be  treated  once,  and 
once  is  usually  sufficient,  at  the  rate  of  about  10  plants  for 
1  cent  for  the  liquid,  using  about  1  teaspoonful  to  each 
plant.  As  the  injector  will  last  for  years,  and  several 
neighbors  might  join  in  the  purchase  and  use  of  one  instru- 
ment, its  cost  would  practically  not  influence  this  estimate 
of  the  cost  of  killing  the  maggots.  We  believe  it  is  the 
cheapest,  most  effective,  and  most  practicable  method  yet 
devised  for  fighting  this  pest  on  crops  of  Cabbages  and 
cauliflowers;  on  crops  of  radishes,  turnips,  or  onions  it  will 
probably  be  too  expensive  except  where  choice  or  new  va- 
rieties are  attacked.  The  carbolic  acid  emulsion  will  prove 
the  most  practicable  on  these  last  crops." 

The  club-root,  which  causes  the  roots  to  become  greatly 
thickened  and  distorted,  is  difficult  to  manage  if  Cabbages 
or  allied  plants  are  grown  continuously  on  land  in  which 
diseased  plants  have  been  raised.  Changing  the  location 
of  the  Cabbage  or  Cauliflower  patch  is  the  best  procedure. 
If  very  different  crops,  as  corn,  potatoes,  peas,  tomatoes, 
etc.,  are  grown  on  the  land,  the  disease  will  be  starved  out 
in  two  or  three  years, 


52  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Cacalia.      TASSEL    FLOWER.       LADIES'    PAINT 

BRUSH.  A  quaint  old  annual,  in  two  colors,  scarlet  and 
orange.  It  is  easily  grown,  and  makes  a  fine  second-row 
plant  for  a  border,  contrasting  well  with  Browallia  or  Agera- 
tum.  Sow  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  Let  plants  stand 
10-12  inches  apart.  Grow  l%-2  ft.  high. 

Cactus.  This  class  of  plants  is  often  seen  in 
small  collections  of  house  plants,  to  which  they  add  in- 
terest, being  altogether  different  from  other  plants.  All 
Cacti  are  easy  to  grow,  requiring  but  little  care  and  endur- 
ing the  heat  and  dryness  of  a  living  room  much  better  than 
most  other  plants.  Their  requirements  are  ample  drainage 
and  a  sandy  soil.  Cactus  growers  usually  make  a  soil  by 
mixing  pulverized  plaster  or  lime  refuse  with  garden 
loam,  using  about  two-thirds  of  the  loam.  The  very  fine 
parts,  or  dust,  of  the  plaster,  are  blown  out,  else  the  soil 
is  likely  to  cement.  They  may  be  rested  at  any  season  by 
simply  setting  them  away  in  a  dry  place  for  two  or  three 
months,  and  bringing  them  into  heat  and  light  when  they 
are  wanted.  As  new  growth  advances  they  should  have 
water  occasionally,'  and  when  in  bloom  they  should  be 
watered  freely.  Withhold  water  gradually  after  blooming 
until  they  are  to  be  rested. 

Some  of  the  most  common  species  in  cultivation  are  the 
Phyllocactus  species,  often  called  the  Night-blooming  Cereus. 
These  are  not  the  true  Night-blooming  Cereuses,  which  have 
angular  or  cylindrical  stems,  covered  with  bristles,  while 
this  has  flat,  leaf -like  branches;  the  flowers  of  these,  how- 
ever, are  very  much  like  the  Cereus,  opening  at  evening 
and  closing  before  morning,  and  as  the  Phyllocacti  may  be 
grown  with  greater  ease,  blooming  on  smaller  and  younger 
plants,  they  are  to  be  recommended.  See  Cereus. 

The  Epiphyllum,  or  Lobster  Cactus,  is  one  of  the  best 
of  the  family,  easy  of  culture.  It  bears  bright -colored 
blossoms  at  the  end  of  each  joint.  When  in  flower,  which 


CACTUS — CALCEOLARIA  53 

will  be  through  some  of  the  winter  months,  this  requires  a 
richer  soil  than  the  other  Cacti.  Opuntias,  or  prickly  pears, 
are  often  grown  as  border  plants  through  the  summer.  In 
fact,  all  the  family  may  be  planted  out,  and  if  a  number  of 
varieties  are  set  in  a  bed  together  they  make  a  striking  ad- 
dition to  the  garden.  Be  very  careful  not  to  bruise  the 
plants.  It  is  better  to  plunge  them  in  the  pots  than  to  turn 
them  out  of  the  pots. 

Caladium.  Tuberous -rooted,  tender  perennial 
plants  which  are  used  for  conservatory  decorations,  and 
also  for  subtropical  and  bold  effects  in  the  lawn.  The 
plants  which  are  commonly  known  under  this  name  are 
really  Colocasias.  The  plants  should  be  rested  during  the 
winter,  being  kept  in  a  warm  cellar  or  under  a  greenhouse 
bench,  where  they  are  not  liable  to  frost  or  dampness.  The 
roots  are  usually  kept  covered  with  earth  during  the  winter, 
but  they  are  kept  dry.  Early  in  the  spring 
the  roots  are  put  into  boxes  or  pots  and  are 
started  into  growth,  so  that  by  the  time 
settled  weather  comes  they  will  be  1  or  2 
feet  high  and  ready  to  set  directly  into  soil.  P^j 
When  set  out  of  doors,  they  should  be  given 
a  place  which  is  protected  from  strong 
winds,  and  one  which  does  not  receive  the 
full  glare  of  direct  sunlight.  The  soil 
should  be  rich  and  deep,  and  the  plants  Caiadium  or 
should  have  an  abundance  of  water.  Cala- 
diums  are  most  excellent  plants  for  striking  effects,  espe- 
cially against  a  house,  high  shrubbery  or  other  background. 
If  they  are  planted  by  themselves,  they  should  be  in  clumps 
rather  than  scattered  as  single  specimens,  as  the  effect  is 
better.  See  that  they  get  a  good  start  before  they  are 
planted  in  the  open  ground. 

Calceolaria.  Small  greenhouse  herbs  which 
are  sometimes  used  in  the  window-garden.  They  are  not 
very  satisfactory  plants  for  window  treatment,  however,  since 


54  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

they  suffer  from  dry  atmosphere  and  from  sudden  changes 
of  temperature.  In  the  window -garden  they  should  be  pro- 
tected from  strong,  direct  sunlight.  They  are  grown  from 
seeds.  If  the  seeds  are  sown  in  early  summer  and  the 
young  plants  are  transplanted  as  they  need,  flowering 
specimens  may  be  had  for  the  late  fall  and  early  winter.  In 
the  growing  of  the  young  plants,  always  avoid  exposing 
them  to  direct  sunlight  ;  but  they  should  be  given  a  place 
which  has  an  abundance  of  screened  or  tempered  light.  A 
new  crop  of  plants  should  be  raised  each  year.  There  is  a 
race  of  shrubby  Calceolarias,  but  it  is  little  known  in  this 
country.  One  or  two  species  are  annuals  which  are  adap- 
table to  cultivation  in  the  open  garden,  and  their  little, 
ladyslipper-like  flowers  are  attractive.  However,  they  are 
of  secondary  importance  as  annual  garden  flowers. 

Calendula.  These  are  the  well  known  POT 
MARIGOLDS,  and  add  a  bright  spot  to  any  garden.  Annual. 
Especially  are  they  fine  in  the  cool  days  of  the  fall,  when 
many  of  the  annual  flowers  have  gone  to  seed.  The  places 
of  short-lived  plants  may  be  filled  by  sowing  seed  of  Ca- 
lendulas in  May,  scattering  them  through  the  border  and 
allowing  the  plants  to  grow  where  they  come  up.  Easy  of 
growth  and  hardy.  1-2  ft.  high.  Should  stand  8-12  in. 
apart.  Colors,  yellow  and  orange. 

California   Poppy    (Eschscholtzia    Californica) . 

Low    perennial, poppy-like  plant,  grown  as  a  hardy  annual. 

It  is  certainly  one  of  the  best  low-growing  annuals,  bloom- 
ing through  a  long  season  and  being  at  its 
best  through  the  cool  days  of  fall,  after 
touched  by  frost.  Most  of  the  varieties  have 
flowers  of  fine  shades  of  orange  or  yellow, 
making  a  bright  spot  in  the  border  at  all 
California  PO  times.  They  are  like  the  pot  marigolds,  in 

that  once  planted  they  seed  themselves. 

They  are  never  out  of  place,  and  should  be  left  to  bloom 

wherever  they  may  be.      Flowers  open  only  in  sunshine. 


CALIFORNIA    POPPY — CALLA  55 

As  cut-flowers  they  are  excellent,  a  large  bowl  of  them  glow- 
ing like  a  golden  ball,  especially  if  they  are  emphasized  by 
a  few  blue  larkspurs  or  batchelor's  buttons. 

Propagated  by  seed,  which  would  best  be  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe,  thus  giving  the  plant  an  early  start,  arid  having 
bloom  through  the  season.  They  make  attractive  mats  of 
foliage.  12-18  in.  high.  Let  the  plants  stand  10  20  in. 
apart. 

Calla  (properly  Richardia) .      EGYPTIAN   LILY. 

All  things  considered,  this  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  of 
winter  house  plants,  lending  itself  to  various  conditions. 
The  requirements  of  the  Calla  are  rich  soil  and  an  abun- 
dance of  water,  with  the  roots  confined  in  as  small  a  space 
as  possible.  If  a  too  large  pot  is  used  the  growth  of  foliage 
will  be  very  rank,  at  the  expense  of  the  flowers,  but  by  using 
a  smaller  sized  pot  and  applying  liquid  manure  the  flowers 
will  be  produced  freely.  A  6-inch  pot  will  be  large  enough 
for  all  but  an  exceptionally  large  bulb.  If  desired,  a  number 
of  bulbs  may  be  grown  together  in  a  larger  pot.  Tne  soil 
should  be  very  rich  but  fibrous — at  least  one-third  well 
rotted  manure  will  be  none  too  much,  mixed  with  equal 
parts  of  fibrous  loam  and  sharp  sand.  The  tubers  should  be 
planted  firmly  and  the  pots  set  in  a  cool  place  to  make  roots. 
After  the  roots  have  partially  filled  the  pot,  the  plant  may 
be  brought  into  heat  and  given  a  sunny  position  and  an 
abundance  of  water.  An  occasional  sponging  or  washing  of 
the  leaves  will  free  them  from  dust.  No  other  treatment 
will  be  required  until  the  flowers  appear,  when  liquid  ma- 
nure may  be  given.  The  plant  will  thrive  all  the  better  at 
this  time  if  the  pot  is  placed  in  a  saucer  of  water.  In  fact, 
the  Calla  will  grow  finely  in  an  aquarium.  The  Calla  may 
be  grown  through  the  entire  year,  but  it  will  prove  more 
satisfactory,  both  in  leaf  and  flower,  if  rested  through  part 
of  the  summer.  This  may  be  done  by  laying  the  pots  on 
their  sides  in  a  dry,  shady  place  under  shrubbery,  or  if  in 
the  open  slightly  covered  with  straw  or  other  litter  to  keep 


56  THE2    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

the  roots  from  becoming  extremely  dry.  In  September  or 
October  they  may  be  shaken  out,  cleaning  off  all  the  old  soil, 
and  repotted,  as  already  mentioned.  The  offsets  may  be 
taken  off  and  set  in  small  pots  and  given  a  year's  growth, 
resting  them  the  second  year  and  having  them  in  flower  that 
winter. 

The  spotted  Calla  has  variegated  foliage  and  is  a  fine 
plant  for  mixed  collections.  This  blooms  in  the  spring, 
which  will  lengthen  the  season  of  Calla  bloom.  The  treat- 
ment of  this  is  similar  to  that  of  the  common  Calla. 

Calliopsis  is  a  garden  name  for  Coreopsis. 

Callirhoe.  G.  pedata  is  a  hardy  annual  which 
has  large,  graceful  blossoms  of  violet  or  red.  Is  it  a  very 
free-blooming  plant.  Should  be  started  in  a  frame  and 
planted  out  where  wanted.  2-3  ft.  high  and  grows  bushy. 
Plants  should  stand  l%-2  ft.  apart. 

Camellia.  Years  ago  Camellias  were  very  pop- 
ular, but  they  have  been  crowded  out  by  the  informal  flowers 
of  recent  times.  Their  time  will  come  again.  They  are 
half-hardy  woody  plants,  blooming  in  late  winter  and 
spring.  During  the  blooming  season  keep  them  cool — 
say  not  over  50°  at  night  and  a  little  higher  by  day. 
When  blooming  is  done  they  begin  to  grow,  then  give 
them  more  heat  and  plenty  of  water.  See  that  they  arc 
well  ripened  by  winter.  Always  screen  them  from  direct 
sunlight.  Do  not  try  to  force  them  in  early  winter,  after 
the  growth  has  ceased.  Their  summer  quarters  may  be  in 
a  protected  place  in  the  open  air.  Propagated  by  cut- 
tings in  winter,  which  should  give  blooming  plants  in  two 
years.  Use  a  porous  soil  for  Camellias,  with  considerable 
leaf-mold. 

Campanula.     BELL    FLOWER.     But  one  of  the 

Campanulas  commonly  listed  by  seedsmen  is  an  annual, — C. 
macrostyla,  a  clean-leaved  plant,  growing  2  feet  high,  spread- 
ing over  the  ground,  and  bearing  a  profusion  of  large,  violet, 


CAMPANULA— CANNA  57 

bell-shaped  flowers.  The  Canterbury  Bell  is  the  best  known. 
It  is  biennial,  but  if  started  early  and  transplanted  will 
bloom  the  first  season.  The  perennial  Campanulas  are 
most  excellent  for  borders.  C.  Carpatica  is  particularly 
good  for  edgings. 

Canary  Bird  Flower.     See  Nasturtium. 

Candytuft.  Well  known  sweet-scented  hardy 
annuals,  in  red,  purple,  and  white;  easy  of 
culture  and  fine  for  cutting.  One  of  the 
best  of  edging  plants  for  the  front  row.  The 
plants  grow  from  6  in.  to  1  ft.  tall.  Sow 
seeds  where  the  plants  are  to  grow,  letting 
plants  stand  6-12  in.  apart.  They  do  not 
last  the  entire  season,  and  successive  sow- 
ings may  well  bo  made.  There  are  also  perennial  kinds. 

Canna  is  now  the  favorite  bedding  plant.  The 
improvements  made  in  the  past  ten  years,  in  size  and 
markings  of  the  flowers,  have  created  a  liking  for  the  plant. 
The  tropical  effect  of  a  large  bed  of  Cannas,  either  mixed 
or  of  one  color,  is  not  surpassed  by  any  other  plant  used  for 
bedding  purposes. 

The  Canna  may  be  grown  from  seed  and  had  in  bloom 
the  first  year  by  sowing  in  February  or  March,  in 
boxes  or  pots  placed  in  hotbeds  or  warmhouse,  first 
soaking  the  seeds  in  warm  water  for  a  short  time.  Atten- 
tion to  transplanting  as  needed  and  removal  to  the  ground 
only  when  it  is  well  warmed  are  the  necessary  requirements. 
The  majority  of  Cannas,  however,  are  grown  from  pieces  of 
the  roots  (rhizomes),  each  piece  having  a  bud.  The  roots 
may  be  divided  at  any  time  in  the  winter,  and  if  early 
flowers  and  foliage  are  wanted  the  pieces  may  be  planted  in 
a  hotbed  or  warmhouse  in  early  April,  started  into  growth 
and  planted  out  where  wanted  as  soon  as  the  ground  has 
warmed  and  all  danger  of  frost  is  over.  A  hardening  of  the 
plants,  by  leaving  the  sash  off  the  hotbeds,  or  setting  the 


58  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

plants  in  shallow  boxes  and  placing  the  boxes  in  a  shel- 
tered position  through  May,  not  forgetting  a  liberal  supply 
of  water,  will  fit  the  plants  to  take  kindly  to  the 
final  planting  out.  After  frost  has  injured  the  tops, 
the  roots  may  be  dug,  choosing,  if  possible,  a  dry 
day.  The  soil  is  shaken  off  and  the  roots  stored 
in  a  warm,  dry  place  through  the  winter.  If  the 
cellar  is  too  dry  the  roots  are  liable  to  shrivel, 
in  which  case  it  would  be  best  to  cover  them  with 
soil  or  sand,  filling  in  around  the  roots  to  exclude 
the  drying  air. 

Cannas  grow  3  to  7  ft.  high.     For   dense  mass 
effects,  plant  12-18  in.  apart.    For  individual  plants, 
or  for  best  bloom,  give  more  room.     Fine  clumps 
may  be  had  by  planting  out  the  entire  old  root,  not 
dividing   it.     Cannas  want  a  rich,  warm  soil  and    a  sunny 
place.      They  are  very  easy  to  grow. 
Canterbury  Bell  is  a  Campanula. 
Carbonate  of  Copper.     See  Bordeaux  Mixture. 
Cardiospermum.     See  Balloon  Vine. 

Carnations  are  of  two  types,  the  outdoor  or 
garden  varieties,  and  the  indoor  or  forcing  kinds.  Nor- 
mally, the  Carnation  is  a  hardy  perennial,  but  the  garden 
kinds,  or  Marguerites,  are  usually  treated  as  annuals.  The 
forcing  kinds  are  flowered  but  once,  new  plants  being  grown 
each  year  from  cuttings. 

Marguerite  Carnations  bloom  the  year  the  seed  is  sown, 
and  with  a  slight  protection  will  bloom  freely  the  sec- 
ond year.  They  make  attractive  house  plants  if  potted 
in  the  fall.  The  seeds  of  these  Carnations  should  be  sown 
in  boxes  in  March  and  the  young  plants  set  out  as  early  as 
possible,  pinching  out  the  center  of  the  plant  to  make  them 
branch  freely.  Give  the  same  space  as  for  garden  pinks. 

The  winter-flowering  Carnations  have  become  prime 
favorites  with  all  flower  lovers,  and  a  collection  of  winter 


CARNATION 


59 


house  plauts  seems  incomplete  without  them.  Carnations 
grow  readily  from  cuttings  made  of  the  suckers  that  form 
around  the  base  of  the  stem,  the  side  shoots  of  the  flowering 
stem,  or  the  main  shoots  before  they  show  flower  buds.  The 
cuttings  from  the  base  malce  the  best  plants  in 
most  cases.  These  cuttings  may  be  taken  from 
a  plant  at  any  time  through  the  fall  or  win- 
ter, rooted  in  sand  and  potted  up,  to  be  held 
in  pots  until  the  planting  out  time  in  the 
spring,  usually  in  April,  or  any  time  when  the 
ground  is  ready  to  handle.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  pinch  out  the  tops  of  young  plants 
while  growing  in  the  pot,  and  later  while  in 
the  ground,  causing  them  to  grow  stocky  and 
send  out  new  growths  along  the  stem.  The 
young  plants  should  be  grown  cool,  a  temper- 
ature of  45°  suiting  them  well.  Attention  Carnation 
should  be  given  to  spraying  the  cuttings  each  day  while  in 
the  house  to  keep  down  the  red  spider,  which  is  very  partial 
to  the  Carnation.  In  the  summer,  the  plants  are 
grown  in  the  field,  and  not  in  pots.  The  soil  in 
which  they  are  to  be  planted  should  be  moderately 
rich  and  loose.  Clean  cultivation  should  be  given 
throughout  the  summer.  Frequently  pinch  out  the 
tops.  The  plants  are  taken  up  in  September  and 
potted  firmly,  and  well  watered  ;  then  set  in  a 
cool,  partially  shaded  situation  until  root  growth 
has  started,  spraying  the  foliage  often,  and  water- 
ing the  plant  only  as  it  shows  need  of  water. 

The  usual  living-room  conditions  as  to  moisture 
and  heat  are  not  such  as  the  Carnation  demands,  and  care 
must  be  taken  to  overcome  the  dryness  by  spraying  the  foli- 
age and  setting  the  plant  in  a  position  not  exposed  to  the 
direct  heat  of  a  stove  or  the  sun.  In  commercial  houses,  it 
is  not  often  necessary  to  spray  established  plants.  Pick  off 
most  or  all  of  the  side  buds,  in  order  to  add  to  the  size  of 


Carnation  cut 
ting 


60  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

the  leading  flowers.  After  all  is  said,  it  is  probably  advis- 
able in  most  cases  to  purchase  the  plants  when  in  bloom 
from  a  florist,  and  after  blooming  either  throw  them  away 
or  store  them  for  planting  in  the  spring,  when  they  will 
bloom  throughout  the  summer. 

Carpet  Bedding.  See  Bedding. 
Carrot,  while  essentially  a  farm  crop  in  this 
country,  is  nevertheless  a  most  acceptable  garden  vege- 
table. It  is  hardy  and  easily  grown.  The  extra  - 
early  varieties  may  be  forced  in  a  hotbed,  or  seed 
may  be  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit  to  work  in 
the<epring.  The  stump-rooted,  or  half-long  varieties, 
are  sown  for  the  general  garden  crop.  Well  en- 
riched, mellow  loam,  deeply  dug  or  plowed,  is  best 
suited  to  the  requirements  of  Carrots.  The  seed  for 
the  main  crop  may  be  sown  as  late  as  July  1. 
5  Sow  thickly,  thinning  to  3-4  in.  in  the  row.  The 
rows,  if  in  a  garden  that  is  hand-worked,  may  be  12  in. 
apart.  If  the  cultivation  is  done  by  a  horse,  the  rows  should 
be  from  2  to  3ft.  apart.  One  ounce  will  sow  100  feet  of  drill. 
Castor  Oil  Plant.  In  the  entire  list  of  quick- 
growing  plants  there  is  none  that  ex- 
cels this  for  rapidity  of  growth,  grace 
of  foliage  and  rich  effect.  Used  either 
as  a  specimen  plant,  with  cannas,  ca- 
ladiums,  or  for  a  tropical  bed,  or  as 
a  screen,  it  gives  the  most  satisfac- 
tory results.  Seeds  sown  early  in  the 
house,  and  the  plants  grown  in  the 
full  light,  make  fine,  stocky  plants  to 
set  out  about  the  middle  of  May. 
With  rich  soil  and  plenty  of  water,  castor  Bean 

they  will  grow  without  a  check  until  frost.  Height,  5-12 
ft.  For  screens,  plant  3-4  ft.  apart.  There  are  varieties 
with  differing  shades  of  foliage. 


CAULIFLOWER — CELERIAC  61 

Cauliflower.  The  general  culture  of  Cauliflower 
is  much  like  that  of  cabbage,  except  that  the  Cauliflower, 
being  more  tender,  should  be  more  thoroughly  hardened 
off  before  setting  out.  Still,  it  is  essential  that  the  plants 
be  set  out  as  early  as  possible,  as  the  warm  weather  of 
June  causes  them  to  make  imperfect  heads  unless  the  soil 
is  filled  with  moisture.  No  garden  crop  will  as  well  repay 
the  cost  and  time  of  thorough  irrigation,  either  by  running 
the  water  between  the  rows  or  applying  it  directly  to  the 
plants.  When  it  is  impossible  to  furnish  water,  it  would 
be  a  good  plan  to  mulch  heavily  with  straw  or  some  other 
substance.  This  mulch,  if  put  on  just  after  a  heavy 
rain,  will  hold  the  moisture  for  a  long  time.  When  the 
heads  begin  to  form  the  outside  leaves  may  be  brought  to- 
gether and  tied  above  the  head,  excluding  the  direct  sun- 
shine and  keeping  the  head  white  and 
tender.  No  vegetable  will  respond 
more  quickly  to  good  culture  and 
well  manured  soil  than  the  Cauli- 
flower, and  none  will  prove  such  an 
utter  failure  when  neglected.  It  is 
imperative  that  care  be  taken  to  de- 
stroy all  the  cabbage  worms  before 
the  leaves  are  tied  in,  as  after  that 

it  will  be  impossible  to  see  or  reach  them.  Cauliflower 
prospers  best  in  moist  soil  and  a  cool  climate.  From  1,000 
to  1,500  plants  may  be  grown  from  1  ounce  of  seed.  Good 
Cauliflower  seed  is  very  expensive. 

For  winter  crop,  seeds  may  be  started  in  June  or  July, 
as  for  late  cabbage. 

Erfurt,  Snowball  and  Paris  are  popular  early  varieties. 
Nonpareil  and  Algiers  are  good  late  kinds. 

Celeriac,    or    TURNIP- ROOTED    CELERY.      This 

tuber  has  the  celery  flavor  in  a  pronounced  degree,  and  is 
used  for  flavoring  soups  and  for  celery  salad.  It  may  be 
Served  raw,  sliced  in  vinegar  and  oil,  or  boiled.  The  culture 


62 


THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 


is  the  same  as  given  for  celery,  except  that  no  earthing  or 
blanching  is  required.  About  an  equal  number  of  plants  are 
obtained  from  the  same  weight  of  seed  as  from  celery  seed. 
Celeriac  is  extensively  used  abroad,  but,  unfortunately,  is 
little  grown  in  America. 

Celery  has  become  one  of  the  favorite  relish 
and  salad  vegetables,  and  is  now  very  generally  grown.  The 
self-blanching  varieties  have  simplified  the  culture  so  that 
the  amateur,  as  well  as  the  expert,  may  have  a  supply 
through  at  least  six  months  of  the  year.  The  so-called  new 
culture,  which  consists  of  setting  the  plants  close  together 
and  causing  them  to  shade  each  other,  can  be  recommended 
for  the  garden  when  a  supply  of  well  rotted  manure  is  to  be 
had,  and  when  any  amount  of  water  is  available.  This 
method  is  as  follows  :  Fork  or  spade 
into  the  soil  a  large  quantity  of  manure 
to  the  depth  of  10-12  in.,  pulverize  the 
soil  until  the  ground  for  the  depth  of  4-6 
in.  is  in  very  fine  condition.  Then  set 
the  plants  in  rows  10  in.  apart  and  the 
plants  but  5  or  6  in.  apart  in  the  rows. 
It  will  be  seen  that  plants  set  as  close 
as  this  will  soon  fill  the  soil  with  a  mass 
of  roots  and  must  have  large  amounts 
of  plant-food,  as  well  as  a  large  quan- 
tity of  water  ;  and  the  making  of  such 
a  bed  can  be  recommended  only  to 
those  who  can  supply  these  needs. 

The  common  practice  in  home  gardens  is  to  plow  or  dig  a 
shallow  trench,  setting  the  plants  in  the  bottom  and  hoeing 
in  the  soil  as  the  plants  grow.  The  distance  apart  of  the 
rows  and  plants  will  depend  on  the  varieties.  For  the  dwarf 
varieties,  such  as  White  Plume,  Golden  Self -blanching  and 
others  of  that  type,  the  rows  may  be  as  close  as  3  ft.  and  the 
plants  6  in.  in  the  rows.  For  the  large-growing  varieties,  as 
Kalamazoo,  Giant  Pascal  and,  in  fact,  most  of  the  late  varie- 


Celery 


CELERY  63 

ties,  the  rows  may  be  from  4%  to  5  ft.  apart  and  the  plants 
7  or  8  in.  in  the  row. 

The  seed  for  an  early  crop  should  be  sown  in  February  or 
early  in  March  in  shallow  boxes,  which  may  be  placed  in  a 
hotbed  or  sunny  window,  or  sown  directly  in  the  soil  of  a 
hotbed.  Cover  the  seeds  thinly  and  press  the  soil  firmly 
over  them.  When  the  seedling  plants  are  about  one  inch 
high  they  should  be  transplanted  to  other  boxes  or  hot- 
beds, setting  the  plants  I  in.  apart  in  rows  3  in.  apart.  At 
this  transplanting,  as  with  the  following  ones,  the  tall  leaves 
should  be  cut  or  pinched  off,  leaving  only  the  upright  growth, 
as  with  the  utmost  care  it  is  almost  impossible  to  prevent 
the  outside  leafstalks  from  wilting  down  and  dying.  The 
roots  of  the  plants  should  also  be  trimmed  back  at  each  trans- 
planting in  order  to  increase  the  feeding  roots.  The  plants 
should  be  set  as  deep  as  possible,  care  being  taken,  however, 
not  to  allow  the  heart  of  the  plant  to  be  covered  up.  The 
varieties  usually  grown  for  an  early  crop  are  the  so-called 
self-blanching  varieties.  They  may  be  made  fit  for  the  table 
with  much  less  labor  than  the  late  crop,  the  shade  required 
to  blanch  the  stalks  being  much  less.  When  only  a  few  short 
rows  are  grown  in  a  private  garden,  screens  of  lath  may  be 
made  by  driving  stakes  on  each  side  of  the  row  and  tacking 
lath  on,  leaving  spaces  of  an  inch  or  more  for  the  light  to 
enter  ;  or  each  head  may  be  wrapped  in  paper,  or  a  tile  drain 
pipe  may  be  set  over  the  plant.  In  fact,  any  material  that 
will  exclude  the  light  will  render  the  stalks  white  and 
brittle. 

The  seed  for  the  main  or  fall  crop  should  be  sown  in  April 
or  early  May  in  a  seed  bed  prepared  by  forking  fine,  well 
rotted  manure  into  a  fine  soil,  sowing  the  seed  thinly  in 
rows  8  or  10  in.  apart,  covering  the  seed  lightly  and  firm- 
ing over  the  seed  with  the  feet,  hoe  or  back  of  a  spade. 
This  seed  bed  should  be  kept  moist  at  nil  times  until  the 
seed  germinates,  either  by  close  attention  to  watering  or  by 
a  lath  screen.  The  use  of  a  piece  of  cloth  laid  directly  on 


64  THE    PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

the  soil,  and  the  bed  wet  through  the  cloth,  is  often  recom- 
mended, and  if  the  cloth  is  always  wet  and  taken  off  the 
bed  as  soon  as  the  seed  sprouts  it  can  be  used.  After  the 
young  plants  have  grown  to  the  height  of  1  or  2  in.  they 
must  be  thinned  out,  leaving  the  plants  so  that  they  do  not 
touch  each  other,  and  transplanting  those  thinned — if  wanted — 
to  other  ground  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  the  seed 
bed.  All  these  plants  may  be  sheared  or  cut  back  to  in- 
duce stockiness. 

If  in  a  private  garden,  the  ground  on  which  the  fall 
crop  is  usually  set  will  likely  be  land  from  which  a  crop  of 
some  early  vegetable  has  been  taken.  This  land  should  be 
again  well  enriched  with  fine,  well  rotted  manure,  to  which 
may  be  added  a  liberal  amount  of  wood  ashes.  If  the  ma- 
nure or  ashes  are  not  easily  obtained,  a  small  amount  may 
be  used  by  plowing  or  digging  out  a  furrow  8  or  12  in.  deep, 
scattering  the  manuie  and  ashes  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench 
and  filling  it  up  almost  level  with  the  surface.  The  plants 
should  be  set  about  the  middle  of  July,  preferably  just  before 
a  rain.  The  plant  bed  should  have  a  thorough  soaking 
shortly  before  the  plants  are  lifted,  and  each  plant  be  trim- 
med, both  top  and  root,  before  setting.  The  plants  should 
be  set  from  5  to  6  in.  apart  in  the  rows  and  the  earth  well 
firmed  around  each  one. 

The  after- cultivation  consists  in  thorough  tillage 
until  the  time  of  "  handling  "  or  earthing  up  the 
plants.  This  process  of  handling  is  accomplished  by 
drawing  up  the  earth  with  one  hand  while  holding  the 
plant  with  the  other,  packing  the  soil  well  around  the  stalks. 
This  process  may  be  continued  until  only  the  leaves  are  to 
be  seen.  For  the  private  grower,  it  is  much  easier  to  blanch 
the  Celery  with  boards  or  paper,  or  if  the  Celery  is  not 
wanted  until  winter,  the  plants  may  be  dug  up,  packed 
closely  in  boxes,  covering  the  roots  with  soil,  and  placed  in 
a  dark,  cool  cellar,  where  the  stalks  will  blanch  themselves. 
In  this  manner  Celery  may  be  stored  in  boxes  in  the  bouse 


CELERY— CENTURY  PLANT          65 

cellar.  Put  earth  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep  box,  and  plant 
the  Celery  in  it.  An  ounce  of  seed  will  furnish  about  three 
thousand  plants. 

Centaurea.  Showy  annuals  and  perennials. 
C.  Cyanus  is  the  CORN  FLOWER  or  BACHELOR  BUTTON, 
familiar  to  every  flower  lover,  and  always  seen  in  old- 
fashioned  gardens.  This  is  a  fine  plant  for  borders  or 
mixed  beds,  and  also  gives  good  flowers  for  bouquets.  A 
bunch  of  the  Corn  Flower,  with  a  sprinkling  of  yellow 
marigolds  or  California  poppy,  makes  a  rich  effect. 
These  Centaureas  are  easy  of  culture,  seeding  themselves 
after  once  being  planted,  and  coming  up  year  after  year  in 
great  profusion.  There  are  blue,  white  and  rose  varieties. 
Annuals.  2-3  ft.  Hardy. 

The  silver-leaved  Centaureas  are  used  only  for  foliage 
effects.  They  are  excellent  for  ribbon  beds  or  border  lines. 
The  seed  of  these  should  be  started  in  a  hotbed  or  box  in 
March,  the  young  plants  being  set  out  where  wanted  when 
the  ground  becomes  warm.  These  species  are  perennials, 
and  are  sometimes  grown  from  cuttings.  C.  candldisslma 
and  C.  gymnocarpa  are  among  the  best  white-leaved  bedders. 

Centranthus.  Low -growing  hardy  annuals  in 
two  colors,  red  and  white.  They  make  very  effective 
covering  for  low  rockwork,  and  are  also  suitable  for  vases 
or  lawn  baskets.  Sow  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  or 
start  indoors  if  early  bloom  is  wanted.  1  ft.  Thin  to  10-12 
in.  apart. 

Century  Plant,  or  AGAVE.  These  are  fine  or- 
namental plants  for  the  window-garden  or  conservatory,  re- 
quiring but  little  care  and  growing  slowly,  thus  needing 
repotting  only  at  long  intervals.  When  the  plants  havo 
outgrown  their  usefulness  as  house  plants,  they  are  still 
valuable  as  porch  decorations,  for  plunging  in  rockwork  or 
about  rustic  nooks.  The  striped-leaved  variety  is  the  most 
desirable,  but  the  common  type,  with  its  blue-gray  leaves, 
is  highly  ornamental. 

E 


66  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

There  are  a  number  of  dwarf  -  growing  species  of  Agave 
that  are  not  so  common,  although  they  may  be  grown  with 
ease.  Such  plants  add  novelty  to  a  collection,  and  may  be 
used  through  the  summer  as  noted  above  or  plunged  with 
cactus  in  a  bed  of  tropical  plants.  All  succeed  well  in 
loam  and  sand  in  equal  parts,  adding  a  little  leaf-mold  in 
the  case  of  the  small  varieties.  The  more  common  species 
are  propagated  by  suckers  from  around  the  base  of  the 
established  plants.  A  few  kinds  having  no  suckers  must 
be  grown  from  seed.  As  to  watering,  they  demand  no 
special  care.  Agaves  will  not  stand  frost. 

Cereus.     Under  the  name  of  NIGHT -BLOOMING 

CEREUS,  several  species  of  Cacti  are  cultivated.  The  name 
is  sometimes  applied  to  species  of  Phyllocactus,  the  flowers 
of  which,  in  white  and  shades  of  red,  sometimes  open  at 
nightfall.  Phyllocactuses  are  easy  to  grow.  See  Cactus. 
The  true  Night-blooming  Cereuses,  however,  are  species  of 
the  genus  Cereus.  The  commonest  oue  is  C.  nycticalus,  but 
C.  grandiflorus,  C.  triangularis  and  others  are  occasionally 
seen.  These  true  Night-blooming  Cereuses  all  have  long  rod- 
like  stems,  which  are  cylindrical  or  angular.  These  stems 
often  reach  a  height  of  10  to  30  ft.,  and  they  need  support. 
They  should  be  trained  along  a  pillar  or  tied  to  a  stake. 
They  are  uninteresting  leafless  things  during  a  large  part 
of  the  year  ;  but  in  midsummer,  after  they  are  three  or 
more  years  old,  they  throw  out  their  great  tubular  flowers, 
which  open  at  nightfall  and  wither  and  die  when  the  light 
strikes  them  next  morning.  They  are  very  easily  grown, 
either  in  pots  or  planted  in  the  natural  soil  in  the  conserva- 
tory. The  only  special  care  they  need  is  good  drainage  at 
the  roots,  so  that  the  soil  will  not  become  soggy. 

Cherry.  Of  Cherries  there  are  two  common 
types,  the  sweet  Cherries  and  the  sour  Cherries.  The  sweet 
Cherries  are  larger  and  taller -growing  trees.  They  com- 
prise the  varieties  known  as  the  Hearts,  Bigarreaus  and 
Dukes.  The  sour  Cherries  include  the  various  kinds  of 


CHERRY— CHERVIL 


67 


Morellos  and  pie  Cherries, 'and  these  usually  ripen  after  the 
sweet  Cherries.  The  sour  Cherries  make  low.  round-headed 
trees.  The  fruits  are  extensively  used  for 
canning.  Cherry  trees  should  be  planted 
when  2  and  3  years  old.  Too  rich  soil  tends 
to  make  growth  at  the  expense  of  fruit,  par- 
ticularly in  the  sweet  Cherries.  For  the 
sweet  types,  a  strong,  gravelly  loam  is  best. 
Sour  Cherries  thrive  well  on  clay  loams. 

Trees  of  the  sour  Cherry  should  be 
planted  18  by  18  ft.  apart,  in  well  prepared 
under-drained  soil.  The  trees  may  be 
slightly  trimmed  back  each  year,  keeping 
the  head  low  and  bushy.  Sweet  ChetT* 

The  sweet  Cherries  have  proved  disappointing  in  many 
instances  from  the  rotting  of  the  fruit.  This  may  never  be 
entirely  avoided,  but  good  cultivation,  soil  not  too  rich  in 
nitrogen,  attention  to  spraying,  and  picking  the  fruit  when 
dry,  will  lessen  the  loss  very  much.  In  years 
of  severe  rotting,  the  fruit  should  be  picked 
before  it  becomes  fully  ripe,  placed  in  a  cool, 
airy  room  and  allowed  to  color.  It  will  be 
nearly  as  well  flavored  as  if  left  on  the  tree  ; 
and,  as  the  fungus  usually  attacks  only  the 
ripe  fruit,  a  considerable  part  of  the  crop  may 
be  saved.  Set  the  trees  25  or  30  ft. apart. 

Leaf -blight  is  readily  controlled  by  timely 
spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  The  curculio  or  fruit  worm 
is  best  controlled  by  jarring,  as  for  plums  (which  see). 

Of  sweet  Cherries,  Windsor  is  the  most  popular  variety. 
Other  good  kinds  are  Napoleon,  Governor  Wood,  Dikeman, 
Black  Tartarian.  Of  sour  Cherries,  Ostheim  and  Early 
Richmond  are  very  early  and  productive,  but  better  kinds 
are  Montmorency  and  English  Morello. 

Chervil.  The  curled  Chervil  is  a  good  addi- 
tion to  the  list  of  garnishing  vegetables,  and  adds  flavor  to 


Black  Tartarian  Cherry 


G8  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

dishes  when  ^  it  is  used  to  season'.  Sow  seeds  and  cultivate 
the  same  as  parsley. 

The  tuberous  Chervil  resembles  a  short  carrot  or 
parsnip.  It  is  much  esteemed  in  France  and  Germany. 
The  tubers  have  somewhat  the  flavor  of  a  sweet  potato,  per- 
haps a  little  sweeter.  They  are  perfectly  hardy,  and,  like 
the  parsnip,  the  better  for  frosts.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  in  September  or  October,  as  it  does  not  keep  well ;  or 
as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit  to  work  in  the  spring,  it  being 
slow  to  germinate  after  the  weather  becomes  hot  and  dry. 
One  packet  of  seed  will  give  all  the  plants  necessary. 

Chestnuts.  Of  Chestnuts  there  are  three  types 
in  cultivation:  the  European,  the  Japanese,  and  the  Amer- 
ican. The  American,  or  native  Chestnuts,  of  which  there 
are  several  improved  varieties,  are  the  hardiest  and  most 
reliable,  and  the  nuts  are  the  sweetest,  but  they  are  also  the 
smallest.  The  Japanese  varieties  are  usually  injured  by  the 
winter  in  central  New  York.  The  European  varieties  are 
somewhat  hardier,  and  some  of  the  varieties  will  thrive  in 
the  northern  states.  Chestnuts  are  very  easily  grown. 
They  usually  bear  better  when  two  or  more  trees  are 
planted  near  each  other.  There  are  few  really  good  Chest- 
nut orchards  in  North  America,  but  Chestnut  planting  is  now 
considerably  agitated.  Sprouts  in  old  Chestnut  clearings 
are  often  allowed  to  remain,  and  sometimes  they  are 
grafted  to  the  improved  varieties.  The  young  trees  may  be 
grafted  in  the  spring  by  the  whip -graft  or  cleft -graft 
method  ;  but  the  cions  should  be  perfectly  dormant,  and 
the  operation  should  be  very  carefully  done.  Even  with 
the  best  workmanship,  a  considerable  percentage  of  the 
grafts  are  likely  to  fail  or  to  break  off  after  two  or  three 
years.  The  most  popular  single  variety  of  Chestnut  is  the 
Paragon,  which  bears  large  and  excellent  nuts  when  the 
tree  is  very  young.  When  the  home  ground  is  large 
enough,  two  or  three  of  these  trees  should  be  planted  near 
the  borders. 


CHICORY — CHRYSANTHEMUM  69 

Chicory.  The  Magdeburg  Chicory  is  the  va- 
riety usually  spoken  of,  it  being  the  one  most  extensively 
grown.  The  roots  of  this,  after  being  ground  and 
roasted,  are  used  either  as  a  substitute  or  an  adulterant  of 
coffee. 

The  Witloof,  a  form  of  Chicory,  is  used  as  a  salad, 
or  boiled  and  served  in  the  same  manner  as  Cauliflower. 
The  plants  should  be  thinned  to  6  in.  In  the  latter  part  of 
summer  they  should  be  banked  up  like  celery,  and  the  leaves 
used  after  becoming  white  and  tender.  This  and  the  com- 
mon wild  Chicory  are  often  dug  in  the  fall,  the  leaves  cut 
off,  the  roots  packed  in  sand  in  a  cellar  and  watered  until  a 
new  growth  of  leaves  starts.  These  leaves  grow  rapidly  and 
are  very  tender,  making  a  fine  salad  vegetable.  One 
packet  of  seed  of  the  Witloof  will  furnish  plants  enough  for 
a  large  family. 

Chrysanthemums  are  both  annual  and  per- 
ennial. The  annual  Chrysanthemums  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  well  known  fall-flowering  kinds,  as  they 
will  prove  a  disappointment  if  one  expects  large  flowers  of 
all  colors  and  shapes.  The  animals  are  mostly  coarse - 
growing  plants,  with  an  abundance  of  bloom  and  a 
rank  smell.  The  flowers  are  single  in  most  cases,  and 
not  very  lasting.  They  are  useful  for  massing  and 
also  for  cut-flowers.  They  are  among  the  easiest  of 
hardy  annuals  to  grow.  The  stoniest  part  of  the 
garden  will  usually  suit  them.  1-2  ft.  Colors  white 
and  shades  of  yellow,  the  flowers  daisy-like. 

Amongst  perennial  kinds,  Chrysanthemum  frutescens 
is  the  well  known  Paris  Daisy  or  Marguerite,  one  of 
the  most  popular  of  the  genus.  This  makes  a  very  fine  pot- 
plant  for  the  window-garden,  blooming  throughout  the  win- 
ter and  spring  months.  It  is  usually  propagated  by  cut- 
tings, which,  if  taken  in  spring,  will  give  large  blooming 
plants  for  the  next  winter.  Gradually  transfer  to  larger 
pots  or  boxes,  until  the  plants  finally  stand  in  6- inch  or 


70 


THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 


8-inch  pots  or  in  small  soap  boxes.     There  is  a  fine  yellow- 
flowered  variety. 

In  variety  of  form  and  color,  and  in  size  of  bloom,  the 
florists'  Chrysanthemum  is  one  of  the  most 
wonderful. of  plants.  It  is  a  late  autumn 
flower,  and  it  needs  little  artificial  heat  to 
bring  it  to  perfection.  The  great  blooms  of 
the  exhibitions  are  produced  by  growing 
only  one  flower  to  a  plant  and  by  feeding 
the  plant  heavily.  It  is  hardly  possible  for 
the  amateur  to  grow  such  specimen  flowers 
as  the  professional  florist  or  gardener  does; 
chrysanthemums  m  a  bo  neither  is  it  necessary.  A  well-grown  plant 
with  fourteen  to  twenty  flowers  is  far  more  satisfactory  as 
a  window  plant  than  a  long,  stiff  stem  with  only  one  im- 
mense flower  at  the  apex.  Their  culture  is  simple,  much 
more  so  than  that  of  many  of  the  plants  commonly  grown 
for  house  decoration.  Although  their  season  of  bloom  is 
short,  the  satisfaction  of  having  a  fall  display  of  flowers 
before  the  geraniums,  begonias  and  other  house 
plants  have  recovered  from  their  removal  from  out 
of  doors,  repays  all  efforts. 

Cuttings  taken  in  March  or  April,  planted  out  in 
the  border  in  May,  well  tended  through  the  summer 
and  lifted  before  frost  in  September,  will  bloom  in 
October  or  November.  The  ground  in  which  they 
are  planted  should  be  moderately  rich  and  moist. 
The  plants  may  be  tied  to  stakes.  When  the  buds 
show,  all  but  the  center  one  of  each  cluster  on  the 
leading  shoots  should  be  picked  off,  as  also  the  small 
lateral  branches.  A  thrifty  bushy  plant  thus  treated 
will  usually  have  flowers  large  enough  to  show  the 
character  of  the  variety,  also  enough  flowers  to  make 
a  fine  display.  As  to  the  receptacle  into  which  to  put 
them  when  lifted  from  the  border,  it  need  not  be  a 
flower  pot.  A  pail  or  soap  box,  with  holes  bored  for  drain- 


CHRYSANTHEMUM— CINERARIA  71 

age,  will  suit  the  plant  just  as  well,  and  by  covering  the 
box  with  cloth  or  paper  the  difference  will  not  be  noticed. 
If  cuttings  are  not  to  be  had,  young  plants  may  be  bought 
of  the  florists  and  treated  in  the   manner  described. 
Buy  them  in  midsummer  or  earlier. 

It  is  best  not  to  attempt  to  flower  the  same  plant 
two   seasons.     After  the  plant  has  bloomed,  the  top 
may  be  cut  down,  and   the  box  set  in  a  cellar  and 
kept  moderately  dry.     In  February  or  March, 
bring  the  plant  to  the   sitting-room   window 
vase  of  small     and  let  the  shoots  start  from  the  root.     These 
Chrysanthemums  shoots  are  taken  for  cuttings  to  grow  plants 
for  the  fall  bloom. 

There  is  a  hardy  race  of  Chrysanthemums,  very 
excellent  for  the  border.   Mulch  in  winter.    The  best  Hardy 

Chrysanthemum 

bloom  is  usually  given  the  first  and  second  years. 

Cineraria.  A  tender  greenhouse  plant.  It  may 
be  grown  as  a  house  plant,  although  the  conditions  nec- 
essary to  the  best  results  are  hard  to  obtain  outside  of  a 
greenhouse.  The  conditions  for  their  growing  are  a  cool 
temperature,  frequent  repotting  and  guarding  against  the 
attacks  of  the  greenfly.  Perhaps  the  last  is  the  most  diffi- 
cult, and  with  one  having  no  facilities  for  fumigating,  it 
will  be  almost  impossible  to  prevent  the  difficulty.  A 
living  room  usually  has  too  dry  air  for  Cinerarias.  The 
seed,  which  is  very  minute,  should  be  sown  in  August  or 
September  to  have  plants  in  bloom  in  January  or  Feb- 
ruary. Sow  the  seed  on  the  surface  of  fine  soil  and  water 
very  lightly  to  settle  the  seeds  into  the  soil.  A  piece  of 
glass  or  a  damp  cloth  may  be  spread  over  the  pot  or  box 
in  which  the  seeds  are  sown,  to  remain  until  the  seeds  are 
up.  Always  keep  the  soil  damp,  but  not  wet.  When  the 
seedlings  are  large  enough  to  repot,  they  should  be  potted 
singly  in  2-  or  3 -inch  pots.  Before  the  plants  have  be- 
come pot-bound,  they  should  again  be  repotted  into  larger 
pots,  until  they  are  in  at  least  a  6 -inch  pot  in  which  to 


72  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

bloom.  In  all  this  time,  they  should  be  grown  cool  and, 
if  not  possible  to  fumigate  them  with  tobacco  smoke,  the 
pots  should  stand  on  tobacco  stems,  which  should  be  moist 
at  all  times.  The  general  practice,  in  order  to  have  bushy 
plants,  is  to  pinch  out  the  center  when  the  flower  buds 
show,  causing  the  lateral  branches  to  start,  which  they  are 
slow  to  do  if  the  central  stem  is  allowed  to  grow.  Plants 
bloom  but  once. 

Gives.  These  belong  to  the  onion  family,  and 
are  propagated  by  division  of  the  root.  They  maybe  planted 
in  a  permanent  place  in  the  border,  and,  being  hardy,  will 
remain  for  years.  The  leaves  are  the  parts  used,  as  the 
roots  are  very  rank  in  flavor.  The  leaves  may  be  cut  fre- 
quently, as  they  readily  grow  again. 

Clarkia.  The  Clarkias  are  among  the  popular 
hardy  edging  and  vase  annuals,  bearing  rose,  white  or 
bordered  flowers  in  great  profusion.  The  double -flower- 
ing varieties  are  the  most  showy,  but  the  single  ones 
will  prove  very  satisfactory.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  where 
the  plants  are  wanted,  or  started  in  frames  for  earlier 
flowers.  6-18  in.  high.  Thin  to  6-12  in.  apart.  Plant 
in  a  warm  soil  and  sunny  place. 

Clematis.  One  of  the  best  of  woody  climbing 
vines.  The  common  C.  Flammula,  Virginiana,  panimlata 
and  others  are  used  frequently  to  cover  division  walls  or 
fences,  growing  year  after  year  without  any  care  and  pro- 
ducing quantities  of  flowers.  C.  panicMlata  is  now  planted 
very  extensively.  The  panicles  of  star-shaped  flowers  en- 
tirely cover  the  vine*  and  have  a  pleasant  fragrance.  One 
of  the  best  of  all  fall -flowering  vines,  and  hardy  North. 
Clings  well  to  a  chicken- wire  trellis. 

The  large-flowered  section,  of  which  Jackmani  is  per- 
haps the  best  known,  is  very  popular  for  pillar  or  porch 
climbers.  The  flowers  of  this  section  are  large  and  showy, 
running  from  pure  white,  through  blue,  to  scarlet.  Of  this 


CLEMATIS — COCKSCOMB  73 

class,  the    most    serviceable    purple    is    Jackmani  ;    white, 
Henryi  ;  blue,  Ramona  ;  crimson,  Madame  E.  Andre. 

The  Flammula  class  may  be  propagated  by  division  of 
the  roots.  The  large -flowered  kinds  are  propagated  by 
layers  or  root-grafting  on  C.  Flammula  and  others. 

A  deep,  mellow,  rich  soil,  naturally  moist,  will  suit  the 
requirements  of  Clematis.    In  dry  times  apply  water  freely, 
particularly  for  the  large-flowered  kinds.    Also 
provide  trellis  or  other  support  as  soon  as  they 
begin  to  run.     Clematis  usually  blooms  on  the 
wood  of  the  season :  therefore  prune  in  winter 
or  early  spring,  in  order  to  secure  strong  new         Clematis  pamcuiata 
flowering  shoots.     The  large-flowered    kinds  should  be  cut 
back  to  the  ground  each  year;  and  other  kinds  may  be  simi- 
larly treated  unless  they  are  wanted  for  permanent  bowers. 

The  Clematis  root  disease  is  the  depredation  of  a  nem- 
atode  or  eel- worm.  It  is  seldom  troublesome  in  ground 
which  thoroughly  freezes. 

Climbers.     Treated  under  Vines. 

Cobsea.  This  is  most  commonly  seen  in  the 
greenhouse,  although  it  is  one  of  the  best  of  tender 
climbers  for  porches.  Seed  sown  in  February  or  March, 
and  grown  in  gentle  heat,  will  make  suitable  plants  for  set- 
ting out  by  June.  It  may  also  be  grown  from  cuttings  of 
the  young  wood,  taken  in  February  and  rooted  in  brisk 
heat.  The  flowers  of  C.  scandens  are  shaped  very  much 
like  those  of  the  Campanulas,  but  are  larger.  They  open  a 
greenish  white  and  deepen  to  a  dark  purple  in  the  course  of 
a  few  days.  The  vines  in  full  bloom  have  a  gradation  of 
colors  as  the  flowers  are  in  different  stages  of  development. 
The  variegated  form  of  C.  scandens  should  be  propagated 
by  cuttings  to  hold  the  variegation.  Grows  10-15  ft. 
Tender.  Climbs  by  means  of  tendrils. 

Cockscomb.  Celosia  cristata  is  the  well  known 
Cockscomb,  having  combs  or  heads  of  scarlet,  crimson, 


74  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

rose  and  yellow.  The  combs  are  often  saved  for  winter 
bouquets  by  cutting  them  off  before  thoroughly  ripe  and 
drying  them.  The  feathered  section  comprises  tall -growing 
plants  with  plumes  of  various  colors  which,  with  the  colored 
leaves  of  some  varieties,  make  a  striking  feature  in  a 
border.  The  Celosias,  being  tender,  should  be  started  in  a 
hotbed  or  frame,  potted  off  when  out  of  the  seed-leaf,  and 
planted  out  in  well  enriched  soil  after  danger  of  frost  is 
past.  lX-2%  ft.  high. 

Coldframe.  A  Coldframe  is  a  simple,  low 
structure,  covered  with  glass  or  oiled  paper  or  cloth,  in 
which  plants  are  grown  without  artificial  heat.  It  differs 
from  the  hotbed  in  the  fact  that  it  has  no  bottom  heat.  The 
atmosphere  in  the  Coldframe  is  warmer  than  that  outside, 
because  it  is  protected  from  the  winds  and  because  there 
is  more  or  less  of  the  sun's  heat  stored  up  in  the  earth. 
For  the  details  of  construction  of  the  Coldframe,  see 
Hotbed. 

A  Coldframe  is  ordinarily  used  for  later  work  than  the  hot- 
bed :  that  is,  seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  Coldframe  from  two  to 
three  and  sometimes  four  weeks  in  advance  of  their  sowing 
in  the  open ;  whereas  in  a  hotbed  the  seeds  may  be  started 
from  one  to  three  months  earlier  than  they  may  be  out  of 
doors.  Coldframes  are  sometimes  used  for  the  wintering 
over  of  hardy  plants  which  are  started  in  the  fall.  For 
example,  cabbage  seed  may  be  sown  in  September  in  a 
Coldframe  and  the  young  plants  may  be  protected  therein 
during  the  winter.  If  they  are  properly  grown  and  hard- 
ened off,  they  will  not  be  injured  by  the  winter,  even 
though  they  freeze.  Lettuce  and  sometimes  cauliflowers  are 
carried  over  in  the  same  way.  Coldframes  are  also  used  to 
receive  plants  which  have  outgrown  the  hotbed  and  must  be 
transplanted.  Plants  which  need  hardening  off  may  also  be 
transplanted  from  the  hotbed  into  the  Coldframe.  The 
Coldframe  in  these  cases  is  an  intermediate  stage  between 
the  hotbed  and  the  open  field. 


COLEUS— COREOPSIS  75 

Coleus.  A  well  known  foliage  plant  for  pot 
culture  or  bedding.  It  was  used  very  extensively  at  one 
time  in  ornamental  bedding  and  ribbon  borders,  but  owing 
to  its  being  tender  has  lost  in  favor,  and  its  place  is 
largely  taken  by  other  plants.  Cuttings  root  very  readily. 
It  may  also  be  grown  from  seed,  although  the  types  have 
not  become  fixed,  and  a  large  number  of  differently  marked 
plants  may  be  had  from  the  same  packet.  This  would  not 
be  a  drawback  in  the  window- garden,  unless  a  uniform 
effect  is  wished.  Sow  the  seed  in  gentle  heat  in  March. 
Make  new  plants  from  cuttings  each  year,  and  throw  the 
old  ones  away. 

Collards.  This  is  a  name  given  to  a  kind  of 
kale,  used  when  young  as  greens ;  also  to  young  cabbages 
used  in  the  same  way.  The  seed  of  any  early  cabbage 
may  be  sown  thickly  in  rows  18  inches  apart,  from  early 
spring  to  late  fall.  The  plants  are  cut  off  when  6  or  8 
inches  high  and  boiled  as  are  other  greens.  The  kale 
Collards  is  grown  in  the  South,  where  cabbages  fail  to 
head.  It  grows  to  the  height  of  2  to  6  feet,  furnishing  a 
large  quantity  of  leaves. 

Collinsia.  A  -hardy  annual  that  should  be 
sown  in  the  fall,  where  wanted,  if  early  flowers  are  desired. 
The  flowers  of  all  the  varieties  are  showy,  either  in  masses 
or  planted  in  a  border.  Give  them  a  position  near  the  front, 
as  the  plants  rarely  exceed  18  inches  in  height. 

Columbine.     See  Aquilegia. 

Compost.     See  Manure. 

Convolvulus.     See  Morning  -  Glory . 

Coreopsis,  or  CALLIOPSIS.     Very  showy  hardy 

annuals,  growing  from  1  to  3  feet  high,  and  covered  through- 
out the  season  with  a  profusion  of  bloom.  The  colors  range 
from  lemon-yellow  to  dark  velvety  brown.  Excellent  for 
cutting,  and  very  effective  in  mixed  borders.  They  thrive  in 


76  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

any  garden  soil  if  they  have  full  sunlight.  Sow  where 
they  are  to  grow,  letting  the  plants  stand  6-12  in.  apart  for 
mass  effects. 

Corn  Salad.  This  is  one  of  the  earliest  spring 
salad  vegetables,  coming  into  condition  to  use  with  spinach, 
and  needing  the  same  culture.  Sown  in  the  fall,  and  cov- 
ered with  straw  or  hay  when  cold  weather  sets  in,  it  will 
start  into  rapid  growth  when  the  covering  is  removed  in 
March  or  April.  Or  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  early  spring, 
and  plants  will  be  fit  to  use  in  six  or  eight  weeks.  One 
packet  of  seed  will  suffice  for  a  small  family. 

Corn,  Sweet,  is  not  so  generally  used  as  it 
should  be.  Usually  when  planted  at  all,  only  one  planting 
of  one  kind  is  made.  The  ears  come  to  edible  maturity 
almost  simultaneously,  and  a  short  season  of  Sweet  Corn  is 
the  result.  The  first  planting  should  be  made  from  May  1 
to  10,  planting  early,  intermediate  and  late  varieties  at  the 
same  time,  then  at  intervals  of  two  weeks  until  the  middle 
of  July,  when  the  late  varieties  should  be  planted,  thus 
having  a  succession  from  the  first  crop  until  October. 
The  soil  for  Corn  should  be  rich  in  plant-food,  and  the 
coarser  manure  left  from  the  preparation  of  the  ground  for 
small  crops  may  be  used  to  good  advantage.  Corn  for  the 
garden  is  better  planted  in  drills,  the  drills  3  feet  apart, 
dropping  the  seed  from  10  to  12  inches  apart  in  the  drills. 
One  quart  of  seed  will  plant  200  hills. 

For  extra  early,  Marblehead,  Adams,  Vermont,  Minne- 
sota and  Early  Cory  are  favorites.  For  later  crop,  Crosby, 
Hickox,  Shoe  Peg  and  Stowell  Evergreen  are  now  popular. 

Cosmos.  The  Cosmos  grown  in  a  locality  free 
from  early  fall  frosts  is  certainly  a  beautiful  thing,  but 
there  are  probably  few  flowers  that  have  caused  so  much  dis- 
appointment to  the  flower  lover  in  the  North.  The  seed 
germinates  very  freely.  The  plants  grow  with  great  vigor, 
and  if  the  season  permits,  an  abundance  of  bloom  may  be 


COSMOS — CRANBERRY  77 

had  in  September.  An  early-flowering  strain  of  dwarf  Cos- 
mos has  been  offered  by  the  trade  for  several  years  ;  and 
each  year  there  seems  to  be  an  improvement  in  the  size  and 
colors,  so  the  time  may  shortly  come  when  this  will  equal 
the  late-flowering  varieties,  making  the  culture  of  Cosmos 
more  satisfactory.  Cosmos  flowers  are  borne  on  long 
stems,  and  the  colors  are  in  white  and  fine  shades  of  red. 
The  foliage  is  also  fine.  Seed  should  be  sown  in  gentle 
heat,  in  the  greenhouse,  hotbed  or  window  in  early  April, 
and  the  young  plants  transplanted  when  2  inches  high, 
setting  the  plants  well  down  in  the  soil  and  giving  at  least 
3  inches  between  the  plants,  as  they  are  very  likely  to  spin- 
dle up,  with  weak  stems,  if  crowded.  When  danger  of  frost 
is  over,  set  them  out  in  a  warm,  well  sheltered  position, 
3  feet  apart.  After  the  plants  start  into  growth,  pinch 
out  the  top  to  induce  a  bushy  growth.  If  situated  where 
the  wind  can  whip  them,  they  should  have  a  stake  driven 
close  to  the  stem,  and  be  tied  to  it  for  support.  Flowers 
of  Cosmos  are  on  the  order  of  single  Dahlias. 

Cranberry.  The  growing  of  Cranberries  in  ar- 
tificial bogs  is  an  American  industry.  The  common  large 
Cranberry  of  markets  is  also  a  peculiarly  American  fruit, 
since  it  is  unknown  in  other  countries  except  as  the  fruit  is 
shipped  there.  Cranberries  are  grown  in  bogs,  which  may 
be  flooded.  The  whole  area  is  kept  under  water  during  the 
winter  time,  largely  to  prevent  the  plants  from  winter  in- 
jury by  the  heaving  and  freezing  and  thawing  of  the  bogs. 
Flooding  is  also  employed  at  intervals  for  the  purpose  of 
drowning  out  insects,  mitigating  drought,  and  protecting 
against  frost  and  fires.  Every  good  Cranberry  bog  should 
have  facilities  for  flooding.  The  ordinary  practice  is  to  choose 
a  bog  which  has  a  creek  running  through  it,  or  through 
which  some  creek  or  ditch  may  be  diverted.  At  the  lower 
side  of  the  bog  flood  gates  are  provided,  so  that  when  the 
gates  are  shut  the  water  backs  up  and  floods  the  area.  It 
is  best  that  the  bog  be  comparatively  flat,  so  that  the  water 


78  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

will  be  of  approximately  equal  depth  over  the  whole  area. 
At  the  shallowest  places  the  water  should  stand  about  a  foot 
above  the  plants.  The  water  is  usually  let  on  the  bog  early 
in  December  and  kept  on  until  April  or  early  May.  No  flood- 
ing is  done  during  the  rest  of  the  year  unless  there  is  some 
particular  occasion  therefor. 

All  the  wild  and  turfy  growth  should  be  taken  off  the 
bog  before  the  vines  are  set.  This  is  done  either  by  digging 
it  off  and  removing  it  bodily,  or  by  drowning  it  out  by 
means  of  a  year's  flooding.  The  former  method  is  gen- 
erally considered  to  be  the  better.  After  the  turfy  growth 
is  removed,  the  bog  is  smoothed  and  covered  2  or  3  in. 
deep  with  clean  sand.  The  vines  are  now  set,  the  lower 
ends  of  them  being  shoved  through  the  sand  into  the  richer 
earth.  In  order  to  prevent  a  too  rapid  and  tangled  growth 
of  vine,  it  is  customary  to  resand  the  bog  every  three  or 
four  years  to  a  depth  of  one-fourth  or  one-half  inch. 
When  sanding  is  not  practicable,  the  vines  may  be  mown 
off  when  they  become  too  luxuriant. 

The  plants  for  setting  are  merely  cuttings  or  branches  of 
the  vines.  These  cuttings  may  be  from  5  to  10  in.  long. 
They  are  inserted  into  the  ground  in  a  hole  made  by  a 
crowbar  or  stick.  They  are  usually  planted  at  distances  of 
12  to  18  in.  each  way,  and  the  vines  are  allowed  to  cover 
the  entire  ground  as  with  a  mat.  In  three  years  a  good 
crop  should  be  secured,  if  the  weeds  and  wild  growth  are 
kept  down.  A  crop  ranges  between  50  to  100  barrels  per 
acre. 

Cress.    The  Upland  Cress,  or  the  true  PEPPER 

GRASS,  may  be  grown  on  any  garden  soil.  Sow  early  in  the 
spring.  It  makes  a  rapid  growth  and  can  be  cut  from 
four  to  five  weeks.  Succession  of  sowings  must  be  made, 
as  it  runs  quickly  to  seed.  The  curled  variety  is  the  one 
usually  grown,  as  the  leaves  may  be  used  for  garnishing  as 
well  as  for  salads.  One  packet  of  seed  will  be  sufficient  for 
each  sowing.  Any  good  soil  will  do.  Sow  thickly  in  drills 


CRESS— CROTON  79 

12-18  in.  apart.  In  summer  it  runs  to  seed  quickly,  so  that 
it  is  usually  grown  in  spring  and  fall. 

The  Water  Cress  is  more  exacting  in  its  culture,  and  can 
only  be  successfully  grown  in  moist  places,  such  as  edges  of 
shallow,  slow-running  creeks,  open  drains,  or  beds  excavated 
near  such  streams.  A  few  plants  for  private  use  may  be 
grown  in  a  frame,  provided  a  retentive  soil  is  used  and  at- 
tention given  to  watering  the  bed  often.  Water  Cress  may 
be  propagated  from  pieces  of  the  stem,  used  as  cuttings.  If 
one  is  fond  of  Water  Cress,  it  is  well  to  colonize  it  in  some 
clean  creek  or  pool.  It  will  take  care  of  itself  year  by  year. 
Seeds  may  also  be  used  for  propagating  it. 

Crocus.  A  hardy  bulb,  easily  grown  and  giv- 
ing good  satisfaction  either  in  the  border  or  scattered 
through  the  lawn.  They  are  also  forced  for  winter  (see 
Bulbs).  They  are  so  cheap  and  lasting  that  they  may  be 
used  in  quantity.  A  border  of  them  along  the  edges  of 
walks,  little  clumps  of  them  in  the  lawn,  or  masses  in  a 
bed,  give  the  first  touch  of  color  as  the  spring  opens.  They 
may  be  forced  with  ease  planted  in  pots  or  shallow  boxes, 
put  away  in  a  cool  place  and  brought  into  the  house  at  any 
time  through  the  winter.  A  low  temperature  will  bring 
them  into  bloom  in  perfection  in  about  four  weeks  from  the 
time  they  are  brought  in.  They  can  be  had  in  the  window- 
garden  in  this  way. 

A  sandy  soil  suits  the  Crocus  admirably.  Plant  in  the 
fall,  in  the  open,  setting  them  3  to  4  inches  deep.  When  they 
show  signs  of  failing,  take  up  the  bulbs  and  reset  them. 
They  tend  to  rise  out  of  the  ground,  because  the  new  bulb  or 
corm  forms  on  the  top  of  the  old  one.  If  best  results  are 
desired,  it  is  well  to  renew  the  bed  occasionally  by  buying 
new  bulbs.  Crocus  beds  may  be  filled  later  in  the  season 
with  quick-growing  annuals. 

Croton.  Under  this  name  many  varieties  and 
so-called  species  of  Codieeum  are  grown  for  conservatory 
decoration,  and  latterly  for  foliage  bedding  in  the  open. 


80  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  colors  and  shapes  of  the  leaves  are  very  various  and  at- 
tractive. The  Crotons  make  good  window-garden  subjects, 
although  they  are  very  liable  to  the  attack  of  the  mealy  bug. 
They  are  propagated  readily  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
wood  any  time  during  winter  or  spring.  The  plants  should 
be  given  an  abundance  of  light  in  order  to  bring  out  their 
line  colors  ;  but  it  is  usually  advisable  to  screen  them  from 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  when  they  are  grown  under  glass. 
If  the  red  spider  or  the  mealy  bug  attack  them,  they  may 
be  syringed  with  tobacco  water.  Plants  which  are  propa- 
gated indoors  during  the  winter  may  be  massed  in  beds 
out  of  doors  during  the  summer,  where  they  make  very 
striking  effects.  Give  them  rich,  deep  soil,  and  be  sure 
that  they  are  syringed  frequently  enough  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves  to  keep  down  the  red  spider.  If  the 
plants  have  been  gradually  subjected  to  strong  light  before 
they  are  taken  out  of  doors,  they  will  stand  the  full  sun- 
light and  will  develop  their  rich  colors  to  perfection.  In  the 
fall  they  may  be  taken  up,  cut  back  and  used  for  window- 
garden  or  conservatory  subjects.  Crotons  are  shrubs  or 
small  trees,  and  they  may  be  transferred  into  large  pots  or 
tubs  and  grown  on  into  large  tree-like  specimens. 

Cucumber.  For  early  use,  the  Cucumber  is 
usually  started  in  a  hotbed  or  coldframe  by  sowing  the  seed 
on  pieces  of  sod  4  to  6  inches  square,  turned  grass  side 
down.  Three  or  four  seeds  are  placed  on  or  pushed  into 
each  piece  of  sod  and  covered  with  1  to  2  inches  of  fine  soil. 
The  soil  should  be  well  watered  and  the  glass  or  cloth  placed 
over  the  frame.  The  roots  will  run  through  the  sod.  When 
the  plants  are  large  enough  to  set  out,  a  flat  trowel  or  a 
shingle  may  be  slipped  under  the  sod  and  the  plants  moved 
to  the  hill  without  check.  In  place  of  sod,  old  quart 
berry  boxes  are  good  ;  after  setting  in  the  hill  the  roots 
may  force  their  way  through  the  cracks  in  the  baskets.  The 
baskets  also  decay  rapidly.  Flower  pots  may  be  used. 
These  plants  from  the  frames  may  be  set  out  when  danger 


CUCUMBER  81 

of  frost  is  over,  usually  by  the  10th  of  May,  and  should  make 
a  very  rapid  growth,  yielding  good- sized  fruits  in  two 
months.  The  hills  should  be  made  rich  by  forking  in  a 
quantity  of  well  rotted  manure,  and  given  a  slight  elevation 
above  the  garden — not  high  enough  to  allow 
the  wind  to  dry  the  soil,  but  slightly  raised 
so  that  water  will  not  stand  around  the  roots. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  fifty  hills.  The 
hills  may  be  4-5  ft.  apart  each  way. 

The  White  Spine  is  the  leading  general -purpose  variety. 
For  very  early  or  pickling  sorts,  the  Chicago,  Russian,  and 
other  picklings  are  good. 

The  striped  beetle  is  an  inveterate  pest  on  Cucumbers 
and  squashes.  Following  is  the  latest  advice  (Hall  and 
Sirrine,  New  York  State  Experiment  Station) :  "  Poisons  can 
be  used  with  success  against  these  beetles  for  only  a  short 
time  in  the  spring,  when  they  begin  to  feed;  and  again,  in 
the  fall,  against  beetles  of  the  new  brood.  This  fall  poi- 
soning will  succeed  only  where  there  is  not  an  abundance 
of  wild  fall  flowers;  for  the  beetles  will  desert  any  poisoned 
crop  for  the  unpoisoned  flowers  and  will  feed  upon  the 
flowers  to  a  considerable  extent,  anyhow,  if  they  are  to  be 
found.  Green  arsenite,  dry,  gave  best  results.  It  was 
found  a  waste  of  the  poisons  to  apply  them  in  Bordeaux 
mixture,  as  the  mixture  so  repelled  the  insects  that  they 
would  not  eat  the  sprayed  vines  to  secure  the  poison. 
These  poisons,  applied  in  water,  are  liable  to  burn  or  stunt 
the  plants.  It  is  necessary,  then,  if  we  wish  to  poison  the 
beetles,  to  use  a  trap  crop  to  attract  the  insects  and  to  apply 
the  poison  to  this  crop  instead  of  to  the  plants  we  design  to 
protect.  On  small  areas  it  may  be  advisable  to  shut  in  the 
small  plants  of  the  growing  crop  by  the  well  known  cloth - 
topped  boxes;  by  the  tent- like  cloth  covers  spread  over  arched 
hoops  or  wires;  by  boxes  made  from  a  rectangular  piece  of 
cloth  and  two  short  6-inch  boards  with  cleats  attached  to 
insert  in  the  soil  and  hold  the  boards  upright;  or  even  6- 


82  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

inch  wire  plate-covers.  Covers,  however,  are  too  expensive 
on  large  areas,  and  they  have  the  disadvantage  of  fre- 
quently making  the  plants  weak,  so  that  winds  will  snap 
them  off  or  twist  and  ruin  them  when  the  covers  have  to  be 
removed.  If  covers  are  used  alone,  their  removal  leaves 
the  unprotected  vines  not  only  for  feeding  places  but  for 
breeding  places  for  the  beetles. 

"Bordeaux  mixture,  if  thoroughly  and  frequently  ap- 
plied, makes  as  efficient  a  protection  as  the  covers,  is  much 
cheaper,  and  at  the  same  time  protects  the  plants  from  dis- 
eases. This  mixture  (1-to-ll  formula)  should  be  sprayed 
upon  the  Cucumbers  when  they  are  just  well  up,  again  when 
they  show  the  third  leaf,  and  the  third  time  just  before  the 
plants  commence  to  form  runners.  The  early  application 
can  probably  best  be  made  with  a  knapsack  sprayer,  and 
later  ones  by  any  good  pump  sprayer.  The  three  applica- 
tions should  not  cost  over  $2  per  acre.  The  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture is  a  much  better  repellant,  according  to  station  tests, 
than  kerosene,  turpentine,  tobacco  dust,  cow  manure,  bur- 
dock infusion,  slug  shot,  bug  death,  or  any  other  known 
compound.  Indeed,  all  materials  of  this  class,  supposed  to 
drive  away  the  beetles  by  their  distasteful  odor,  proved  fail- 
ures when  used  alone.  Air-slaked  lime,  dusted  over  the 
vines,  will  make  them  unpalatable  to  the  beetles,  but  the 
lime  is  liable  to  stunt  the  plants.  It  may  be  used,  with 
care,  by  those  whose  crop  is  not  large  enough  to  warrant 
purchase  of  a  spraying  outfit. 

"All  of  these  appliances  or  applications,  covers,  Bor- 
deaux mixture  or  lime,  merely  protect  the  young  plants 
until  they  are  strong  enough  to  stand  the  injury  from  the 
beetles ;  they  do  not  kill  the  insects.  To  do  this,  trap  crops 
are  needed.  As  the  squash  is  the  beetle's  favorite  food 
plant,  this  vegetable  should  be  planted  —  in  single  rows 
along  the  margins  of  small  patches,  in  several  rows  around 
large  fields— about  four  days  before  the  Cucumbers  or 
melon  seeds  are  sown.  When  these  trap  plants  are  up  and 


CUCUMBER — CURRANT  83 

the  beetles  appear  about  them,  dust  about  half  the  plants 
with  green  arsenite,  reserving  the  other  half  for  use  if  rain 
or  heavy  dew  makes  the  poison  soluble  and  kills  the  vines 
first  treated.  The  beetles,  attracted  by  their  favorite  tid- 
bit, will  feed  upon  the  squash  vines  and  be  poisoned  by  the 
arsenite.  When  the  Cucumbers  or  melons  are  up,  unless 
they  are  protected  by  covers,  spray  with  Bordeaux,  and  poi- 
son more  of  the  squash  vines.  When  the  beetles  commence 
to  pair,  the  squashes  may  be  cultivated  up,  leaving  only  a 
few  vines  for  the  beetles  to  feed  upon  at  flowering  time,  as 
the  insects  prefer  the  squash  flowers  and  will  not  molest  the 
others.  Beans  may  be  used  with  some  success  as  a  fall 
catch  crop,  where  wild  flowers  are  not  too  plentiful.  They 
should  be  planted  on  the  Cucumber  or  melon  fields;  and 
when  the  beetles  leave  the  old  vines  to  feed  upon  the  fresh 
bean  plants,  they  should  be  treated  to  liberal  doses  of  poi- 
son as  well." 

The  mildew  on  the  vines  can  be  prevented  by  Bordeaux 
mixture  spray. 

Currants.  The  Currant,  being  one  of  the 
hardiest  and  most  productive  of  fruits,  is  often  neglected, 
the  patch  allowed  to  become  foul  with  grass,  never 
thinned  or  trimmed,  the  worms  eating  the  leaves  until,  in 
the  course  of  time,  the  plants  weaken  and  die. 
Along  the  fence  is  no  place  to  plant  Currants,  or, 
indeed,  any  other  fruit ;  plant  out  in  the  open,  at 
least  5  feet  from  anything  that  will  interfere  with 
cultivation.  No  fruit  crop  will  respond  more  read- 
ily  to  good  care  than  the  Currant.  Clean  cultiva- 
tion and  a  liberal  use  of  manure  or  fertilizers 
will  certainly  be  followed  by  -well  paying  crops. 
One-  or  two -year- old  plants  may  be  set  4  by  6 
feet.  Trim  the  bush  by  cutting  off  most  of  the  suckers 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  If  the  season  is  dry,  a 
mulch  of  straw  or  leaves  will  assist  the  plants  to  establish 
themselves. 


84  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  red  and  white  Currants  bear  mostly  on  two-year-old 
or  older  wood.  A  succession  of  young  shoots  should  be 
allowed  to  grow  to  take  the  place  of  the  old  bearing  wood. 
Cut  out  the  canes  as  they  grow  older.  The  partial  shade 
afforded  by  a  young  orchard  suits  the  Currant  well,  and  if 
the  ground  is  in  good  condition  no  bad  results  will  follow  to 
the  orchard,  provided  the  Currants  are  removed  before  the 
trees  need  the  entire  feeding  space. 

A  Currant  patch  should  continue  in  good  bearing  for  10 
to  20  years,  if  properly  handled.  One  very  important  point 
is  to  keep  the  old,  weak  canes  cut  out,  and  a  succession  of 
two  to  four  new  ones  coming  from  the  root  each  year.  For 
home  use,  White  Imperial  and  Moore's  Euby  are  excellent. 
Prince  of  Wales  is  a  heavy  bearer  and  excellent  for  cooking. 
Wilder,  Victoria,  Cherry  and  White  Grape  are  meritorious 
varieties. 

To  combat  the  Currant  worm,  spray  thoroughly  with 
Paris  green  to  kill  the  first  brood,  just  as  soon  as  holes  can 
be  seen  in  the  lower  leaves — usually  before  the  plants  are 
in  bloom.  For  the  second  brood,  if  it  appear,  spray  with 
white  hellebore.  For  borers,  cut  out  and  burn  the  affected 
canes. 

Cuttings.  Cuttings  are  parts  of  plants  which 
are  inserted  in  soil  or  water  with  the  intention  that  they 
shall  grow  and  make  new  plants.  They  are  of  various  kinds. 
They  may  be  classified,  with  reference  to  the  age  of  the 
wood  or  tissue,  into  two  classes  ;  viz.,  those  made  from 
perfectly  hard  or  dormant  wood  (taken  from  the  winter 
twigs  of  trees  and  bushes),  and  those  made  from  more  or 
less  immature  or  growing  wood.  They  may  be  classified 
again  in  respect  to  the  part  of  the  plants  from  which  they 
are  taken,  as  root  Cuttings,  tuber  Cuttings  (as  the  ordinary 
"seed"  planted  for  potatoes),  stem  Cuttings  and  leaf  Cut- 
tings. 

Dormant  wood  Cuttings  are  used  for  grapes,  currants, 
gooseberries,  willows,  poplars  and  many  other  kinds  of  soft- 


CUTTINGS  85 

wooded  trees  and  shrubs.     Cuttings  are  ordinarily  taken  in 
fall  or  winter,  but  cut  into  the  proper  lengths  and  then 
buried  in  sand  or  moss  where  they  do  not  freeze,  in  order 
that  the  lower  end  may  heal  over  or  cal- 
lus.    In  the    spring  these   Cuttings    are 
set  in  the  ground,  preferably  in  a  rather 
sandy  and  well  drained  place.     Usually, 
hardwood  Cuttings  are  made  with  two  to 
four  joints  or   buds,  and  when   they  are 
planted,    only   the    upper    bud     projects 
above  the  ground.     They  may  be  planted 
erect,  as  the  picture,  shows,  or  somewhat 

T  j        xv,    4.   j.r,       /-<    -Li-  The  planting  of  dormant  wood 

slanting.     In  order  that  the  Cutting  may  Cuttings 

reach  down  to  moist  earth,  it  is  desirable 
that  it  should  not  be  less  than  6  inches  long  ;    and  it  is 
sometimes  better  if  it  is  8  to  12  inches.     If  the  wood  is 
short-jointed,  there    may  be  several  buds  on  a  Cutting  of 
this  length  ;  and,  in  order  to  prevent  too  many  shoots  from 
arising  from  these  buds,  the  lowermost  buds  are  often  cut 
out.     Roots  will  start  as  readily  if  the  lower  buds  are  re- 
moved, since  the  buds  grow  into  shoots  and  not  into  roots. 
Cuttings  of  currants,  grapes,  gooseberries,  and  the  like  may 
be  set  in  rows  which  are  far  enough  apart  to  admit  of  easy 
tillage  either  with  horse  or  hand  tools,  and  the  Cut- 
tings may  be  placed  from  3  to  8  inches  apart  in  the 
row.     After  the  Cuttings  have  grown  for  one  season, 
the  plants  are  usually  transplanted  and  given  more 
^f    '  room  for  the  second  year's  growth,  after  which  time 
they  are  ready  to  be  set  in  permanent  plantations. 
In    some  cases,  the  plants  are  set  at  the  end  of   the 
Root  Cuttin     ^rs^  year  '•>  but  two-year  plants  are  stronger  and  usu- 
whichhas  given  ally  preferable. 

rise  to  a  shoot  Root  Cuttings  are  used  for  blackberries,  raspber- 
ries, and  a  few  other  things.  They  are  ordinarily  made  of 
roots  from  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil  to  one's  little  finger,  and 
are  cut  in  lengths  from  3  to  5  inches  long.  The  Cuttings 


86  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

are  stored  the  same  as  stem  Cuttings  and  allowed  to  cal- 
lus. In  the  spring  they  are  planted  in  a  horizontal  or 
nearly  horizontal  position  in  moist,  sandy  soil,  being  en- 
tirely covered  to  a  depth  of  1  or  2  inches. 

Softwood  or  greenwood  Cuttings  are  always  rooted  under 
cover  ;  that  is,  in  a  greenhouse,  coldframe  or  dwelling 
house.  They  are  usually  made  of  wood  which  is  mature 
enough  to  break  when  it  is  bent  sharply.  When  the  wood 
is  so  soft  that  it  will  bend  and  not  break,  it  is  too  immature, 
in  the  majority  of  plants,  for  the  making  of  good  Cuttings. 
One  to  two  joints  is  the  proper  length  of  a  greenwood  Cut- 
ting. If  of  two  joints,  the  lower  leaf  should  be  cut  off  and 
the  upper  leaves  cut  in  two,  so  that  they  do  not  present 
their  entire  surface  to  the  air  and  thereby  evaporate  the 
plant  juices  too  rapidly.  If  the  Cutting  is  of  only  one  joint, 
the  lower  end  is  usually  cut  just  above  a  joint.  In  either 
case,  the  Cuttings  are  usually  inserted  in  sand  or  well 
washed  gravel,  nearly  or  quite  up  to  the  leaves.  Keep  the 
bed  uniformly  moist  throughout  its  depth,  but  avoid  any  soil 
which  holds  so  much  moisture  that  it  becomes  muddy  and 
sour.  These  Cuttings  should  be  shaded  until  they  begin  to 
emit  their  roots.  Coleus,  geraniums,  fuchsias,  and  nearly 
all  the  common  greenhouse  and  house  plants,  are  propagated 
by  these  Cuttings  or  slips. 

Leaf  Cuttings  are  often  used  for  the  fancy -leaved  bego- 
nias, gloxinias,  and  a  few  other  plants.  The  young  plant 
usually  arises  most  readily  from  the  leaf -stalk  or  petiole. 
The  leaf,  therefore,  is  inserted  into  the  ground  much  as  a 
green  Cutting  is.  Begonia  leaves,  however,  will  throw  out 
young  plants  from  the  main  veins  when  these  veins  or 
ribs  are  cut.  Therefore,  well-grown  and  firm  begonia  leaves 
are  sometimes  laid  flat  on  the  sand  and  the  main  veins  cut  ; 
then  the  leaf  is  weighted  down  with  pebbles  or  pegs  so  that 
these  cut  surfaces  come  into  intimate  contact  with  the  soil 
beneath.  The  begonia  leaf  may  be  treated  in  various  other 
ways  and  still  give  good  results.  See  Begonia. 


CUTTINGS— CUTWORMS  87 

In  the  growing  of  all  greenwood  Cuttings,  it  is  well  to 
remember  that  they  should  have  a  gentle  bottom  heat  ;  the 
soil  should  be  such  that  it  will  hold  moisture  and  yet  not 
remain  wet  ;  the  air  about  the  tops  should  not  become  close 
and  stagnant,  else  the  plants  will  damp  off  ;  and  the  tops 
should  be  shaded  for  a  time. 

An  excellent  method  of  starting  Cuttings 
in  the  living  room  is  to  make  a  double  pot, 
as  shown  in  the  picture.  Inside  a  6-inch  pot, 
set  a  4-inch  pot.  Fill  the  bottom,  a,  with 
gravel  or  bits  of  brick,  for  drainage.  Plug  the 
hole  in  the  inside  pot.  Fill  the  spaces  between, 
c,  with  earth,  and  in  this  set  the  Cuttings. 
Water  may  be  poured  into  the  inner  pot,  6,  to  Cuttings  inserted  in 
supply  the  moisture.  double  pot 

Cutworms.  Probably  the  remedy  for  Cut- 
worms most  often  practiced  in  gardens,  and  which  cannot 
fail  to  be  effective  when  faithfully  carried  out,  is  hand- 
picking  with  lanterns  at  night  or  digging  them  out  from  around 
the  base  of  the  infested  plants  during  the  day.  Bushels  of 
Cutworms  have  been  gathered  in  this  way,  and  with  profit. 
When  from  some  cause  success  does  not  attend  the  use  of 
the  poisoned  baits,  discussed  next,  hand-picking  is  the  only 
other  method  yet  recommended  which  can  be  relied  upon  to 
check  Cutworm  depredations. 

By  far  the  best  methods  yet  devised  for  killing  Cutworms  in 
any  situation  are  the  poisoned  baits  ;  hand-picking  is  usually 
unnecessary  where  they  are  thoroughly  used.  Poisoned 
bunches  of  clover  or  weeds  have  been  thoroughly  tested, 
even  by  the  wagon-load,  over  large  areas,  and  nearly 
all  have  reported  them  very  effective  ;  lamb's  quarters 
(pigweed),  pepper- grass  and  mullein  are  among  the  weeds 
especially  attractive  to  Cutworms.  On  small  areas  the 
making  of  the  baits  is  done  by  hand,  but  they  ha-ve  been 
prepared  on  a  large  scale  by  spraying  the  plants  in  the 
field,  cutting  them  with  a  scythe  or  machine,  and  pitching 


88  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

them  from  wagons  in  small  bunches  wherever  desired. 
Distributed  a  few  feet  apart  between  rows  of  garden  plants 
at  nightfall,  they  have  attracted  and  killed  enough  Cut- 
worms often  to  save  a  large  proportion  of  the  crop  ;  if  the 
bunches  can  be  covered  with  a  shingle,  they  will  keep 
fresher  much  longer.  The  fresher  the  baits,  and  the  more 
thoroughly  the  baiting  is  done,  the  more  Cutworms  one  can 
destroy.  However,  it  may  sometimes  happen  that  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  such  green  succulent  plants  cannot  be  ob- 
tained early  enough  in  the  season  in  some  localities.  In 
this  case,  and  we  are  not  sure  but  in  all  cases,  the  poisoned 
bran  mash  can  be  used  to  the  best  advantage.  It  is  easily 
made  and  applied  at  any  time,  is  not  expensive,  and  thus 
far  the  results  show  that  it  is  a  very  attractive  and  effective 
bait.  A  tablespoonful  can  be  quickly  dropped  around  the 
base  of  each  cabbage  or  tomato  plant,  small  amounts  can  be 
easily  scattered  along  the  rows  of  onions,  turnips,  etc.,  or 
a  little  dropped  on  a  hill  of  corn,  cucumbers,  etc.  It  was 
used  on  sweet  potato  hills  in  New  Jersey  last  year,  and 
"  served  as  a  complete  protection,  the  Cutworms  preferring 
the  bran."  It  is  well  to  apply  it  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  day  the  plants  are  set  out. 

The  best  time  to  apply  these  poisoned 
baits  is  two  or  three  days  before  any  plants 
have  come  up  or  been  set  out  in  the  garden. 
If  the  ground  has  been  properly  prepared,  the 
worms  will  have  had  but  little  to  eat  for  sev- 
eral days  and  they  will  thus  seize  the  first 
opportunity  to  appease  their  hunger  upon  the 
baits,  and  wholesale  destruction  will  result. 
The  baits  should  always  be  applied  at  this  time 

Protection  from  cutworms  ~  ^  . 

wherever  Cutworms  are  expected.  But  it  is 
not  too  late  usually  to  save  most  of  a  crop  after  the  pests 
have  made  their  presence  known  by  cutting  off  some  of  the 
plants.  Act  promptly  and  use  the  baits  freely, — M.  V. 
Sling  erland. 


CUTWORMS — DAHLIA  8i) 

Cutworms  may  be  kept  away  from  plants  by  making  a 
collar  of  stiff  paper  or  tin  about  the  base,  as  in  the  picture ; 
but  this  is  not  practicable  on  a  large  scale. 

Cyclamen.      A     tender     greenhouse     tuberous 

plant,  sometimes  seen  in  the  window-garden.  Cyclamens  may 
be  grown  from  seed  sown  in  April  or  September  in  soil  con- 
taining a  large  proportion  of  sand  and  leaf-mold.  If  sown 
in  September,  they  should  be  wintered  in  a  coolhouse.  In 
May  they  should  be  potted  into  larger  pots  and  placed  in  a 
shaded  frame,  and  by  July  will  have  become  large  enough 
for  their  flowering  pot,  which  should  be  either  a  5-  or 
6 -inch  one.  They  should  be  brought  into  the  house  before 
danger  of  frost,  and  grown  cool  until  through  flowering.  A 
temperature  of  55°  suits  them  while  in  flower.  After 
flowering,  they  will  need  a  rest  for  a  short  time,  but  should 
not  become  very  dry,  or  the  bulb  will  be  injured.  When 
they  start  into  growth,  they  should  have  the  old  soil  shaken 
off  and  be  potted  into  smaller  pots.  At  no  time  should  more 
than  half  the  tuber  be  under  the  soil. 

Tubers  large  enough  to  flower  the  first  year  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  seedsmen  at  moderate  prices;  and  unless 
one  has  facilities  for  growing  the  seedlings  for  a  year,  pur- 
chase of  the  tubers  will  give  the  best  satisfaction.  The  soil 
best  suited  to  the  Cyclamen  is  one  containing  two  parts 
leaf-mold,  1  part  each  of  sand  and  loam. 

Daffodils    are  a  kind  of   Narcissus.     They   are 

hardy,  and  require  the  treatment  recommended  for  Crocus. 
They  may  be  naturalized  in  the  grass,  but  they  usually  do 
not  persist  long  on  account  of  our  hot,  dry  summers.  Daf- 
fodils have  been  much  improved  of  late.  Plant  in  the  fall, 
4-6  in.  deep.  Excellent  old  garden  plants. 

Dahlia.  The  Dahlia  is  an  old  favorite  which, 
on  account  of  its  formal  flowers,  has  been  in  disfavor  for  a 
few  years,  although  it  has  always  held  a  place  in  the  rural 
districts.  Now,  however,  with  the  advent  of  the  cactus  and 


90  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

semi-cactus  types  (or  loose-flowered  forms),  and  the  im- 
provement of  the  singles,  it  again  has  taken  a  front  rank 
among  late  summer  flowers,  coming  in  just  in  advance  of 
the  Chrysanthemum. 

The  single  varieties  may  be  grown  from  seed,  but  the 
double  sorts  should  be  grown  from  cuttings  of  young 
stems  or  from  division  of  the  roots.  If  cuttings  are 
to  be  made,  it  will  be  necessary  to  start  the  roots  early 
either  in  a  hotbed  or  house.  When  the  growth  has 
reached  4  or  5  inches,  they  may  be  cut  from  the  plant 
and  rooted  in  sand.  Care  should  be  taken  to  cut  just 
below  the  joint,  as  a  cutting  made  between  two  joints 
will  not  form  tubers.  The  most  rapid  method  of  pro- 
lhlia  pagation  of  named  varieties  is  to  grow  from  cuttings 
in  this  way.  In  growing  the  plants  from  roots,  the  best 
plan  is  to  place  the  whole  root  in  gentle  heat,  covering 
slightly.  When  the  young  growth  has  started,  the  roots 
may  be  taken  up,  divided,  and  planted  out  3  to  4  feet  apart. 
This  plan  will  ensure  a  plant  from  each  piece  of  root, 
whereas  if  the  roots  are  divided  while  dormant,  there  is 
danger  of  not  having  a  bud  at  the  end  of  each 
piece,  in  which  case  no  growth  will  start. 

The  Dahlia  flourishes  -best  in  a  deep,  rich, 
moist  soil,  although  very  good  results  can  be  had 
on  sandy  soil,  provided  plant-food  and  moisture 
are  furnished.  Clay  should  be  avoided.  If  the 
plants  are  to  be  grown  without  stakes,  the  center 
of  each  plant  should  be  pinched  out  after  making 
two  or  three  joints.  By  doing  this  the  lateral  Dahha 
branches  will  start  near  the  ground  and  be  stiff  enough  to 
withstand  the  winds.  In  most  home  gardens  the  plants  are 
allowed  to  reach  their  full  height,  and  are  tied  to  stakes  if 
necessary.  Dahlias  are  very  susceptible  to  frost.  The  tall 
kinds  reach  a  height  of  5-8  feet. 

After  the  first  frost,  lift  the  roots,  let  them  dry  in  the 
sun,  shake  off  the  dirt,  trim  off  tops  and  broken  parts,  and 


DAHLIA— DANDELION  91 

store  them  in  a  cellar  as  you  would  potatoes.  Cannas  may 
be  stored  in  the  same  place. 

Daisy.    The  perennial  English  Daisy,  or  Bellis 

perennis,  is  a  prime  favorite  as  an  edging  plant.  The  cheer- 
ful little  flowers  show  early  in  the  spring,  and  with  a  little 
care  bloom  continuously  through  a  long  season.  They 
should  be  given  well  enriched,  moist  soil,  and  be  mulched 
through  hot  weather.  The  usual  method  of  propagation  is 
by  division  of  the  crowns,  made  in  cool  weather.  They  may 
also  be  grown  from  seed,  but  the  chances  are  that  many  in- 
ferior flowers  will  be  produced.  Set  the  plants  3  or  4  inches 
apart.  Height  3  to  5  inches.  The  colors  are  white,  pink  and 
red.  Hardy  if  mulched  in  winter,  but  best  results  are  ob- 
tained if  plants  are  renewed  frequently. 

Many  other  plants  are  called  Daisy,  particularly  the  wild 
Asters,  the  Ox-eye  Daisy  or  Whiteweed,  and  the  Paris  Daisy 
(Chrysanthemum  frutescens) . 

Damping  Off  is  the  rotting  off  of  cuttings  or 
young  plants  near  the  surface  of  the  soil.  It  is  the  work  of 
fungi;  but  these  fungi  are  injurious  because  they  find  con- 
ditions congenial  to  their  rapid  growth.  Prevention  is 
worth  more  than  cure.  See  that  the  soil  is  wet  clear 
through,  not  wet  on  top  and  dry  beneath.  Keep  it  as  dry  as 
possible  on  the  surface.  Avoid  soggy  soils.  On  peaty  soils, 
sprinkle  sand  or  coal  ashes  to  keep  the  top  dry.  Give  the 
plants  free  circulation  of  air.  Give  them  abundance  of 
room.  If  Damping  Off  threatens,  transplant. 

Dandelion.  This  common  weed  would  hardly 
be  recognized  if  seen  under  cultivation  in  the  vegetable 
garden.  The  plants  attain  a  large  size  and  the  leaves  are 
much  more  tender.  The  seed  may  be  selected  from  the 
best  field-growing  plants,  but  it  is  better  to  buy  the  French 
seed  of  the  seedsmen. 

Sow  in  spring  in  well  manured  soil,  either  in  drills  or  in 
hills  1  foot  apart.  A  cutting  of  leaves  may  be  had  in  Sep- 


92  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

tember  or  October,  and  some  of  the  stools  may  stand  until 
spring.  The  delicacy  of  the  leaves  may  be  improved  by 
blanching  them,  either  by  the  use  of  boards  or  earth.  One 
trade  packet  of  seed  will  supply  a  large  number  of  plants. 
The  whole  plant  is  destroyed  when  the  crop  of  leaves  is  taken. 

Datura.  BRUGMANSIA.  Large -growing  an- 
nuals with  large,  trumpet -shaped  flowers.  The  coloring  of 
some  of  the  flowers  is  very  attractive,  but  the  odor  of  the 
plant  is  unpleasant.  Plants  should  be  set  4  feet  apart. 
They  grow  3-4  feet  high,  bear  large  leaves,  and  therefore 
make  good  low  screens.  Frost  kills  them.  Sow  seed  where 
plants  are  to  grow ;  or,  better,  start  them  in  the  house  three 
or  four  weeks  before  the  weather  is  fit  for  planting  out- 
side. Some  of  the  Daturas  are  weeds.  The  great  spiny 
seed  pods  are  interesting. 

Delphinium.     See  Larkspur. 

Dewberry.      The   Dewberry   may  be   called    an 
early  trailing  blackberry.      The  culture  of  this,  as  of  the 
blackberry,    is    very   simple;   but,   unlike   the   latter,  some 
support  should   be    given   to  the   canes,  as   they   are   very 
slender  and  rank    growers.     A  wire  trellis   or 
large -meshed    fence -wire    answers    admirably  ; 
or  (and  this  is  the  better  general  method)  they 
maybe  tied  to  stakes.     The  fruits  are  large  and 
showy,   which,   combined   with  their  earliness, 
makes   them    desirable;    but   they  are  usually 
deficient  in  flavor.     The  Lucretia  is  the  leading 
variety  in  cultivation. 

Lucretia  Dewberry  T          , ,  ,  ,    .          .    ,  T 

Lay  the  canes  on  the  ground  in  winter.  In 
the  spring  tie  all  the  canes  from  each  plant  to  a  stake. 
After  fruiting,  cut  the  old  canes  and  burn  them  (as  for 
blackberries).  In  the  meantime,  the  young  canes  (for  next 
year's  fruiting)  are  growing.  These  may  be  tied  up  as  they 
grow,  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  cultivator.  Dewberries 
are  one  to  two  weeks  earlier  than  blackberries. 


DIANTHUS — DIBBERS  93 

Dianthus,  or  PINK.  Under  this  head  are  in- 
cluded Chinese  Pinks,  Sweet  William,  Picotee,  Carnation 
(which  see),  and  the  perennial  or  Grass  Pinks.  All  of 
them  are  general  favorites. 

The  Chinese  Pinks  (Dianthus  Chinensis,  or  Heddewigii)  are 
now  very  popular.  They  are  biennials,  but  flower  the  first 
year  from  seed,  and  are  treated  as  hardy  annuals.  They  have 
a  wide  range  of  color  and  markings.  Some  of  them  are  as 
double  as  a  rose,  and  are  edged,  splashed  or  lined  with  other 
colors.  The  single  ones  are  very  brilliant  and  are  profuse 
bloomers.  Sow  seeds  where  plants  are  to  stand,  or  if  early 
bloom  is  desired,  start  in  the  house.  Set  the  plants  6-10 
in.  apart.  They  grow  8-15  in.  high.  They  bloom  until  after 
frost.  Of  easiest  culture  in  any  good  soil,  and  should  be 
even  more  popular.  The  petals  are  often  quite  deeply  and 
oddly  cut. 

The  Sweet  William  is  an  old-fashioned  perennial,  having 
flowers  of  many  combinations  of  color,  growing  for  several 
years  when  once  planted,  but  being  the  better  for  renewal 
every  two  years.  Raising  new  stock  from  seeds  is  usually 
better  than  dividing  old  plants.  Of  late  years,  the  Sweet 
William  has  been  much  improved. 

The  perennial  garden  or  Grass  Pinks  are  low- growing, 
with  highly  perfumed  flowers.  They  are  very  useful  for 
permanent  edgings,  although  the  grass  is  likely  to  run  them 
out  unless  a  clean  strip  is  kept  on  either  side.  Divide  the 
old  plants  when  the  edging  begins  to  fail ;  or 
raise  new  plants  from  seed.  Seedlings  usually 
do  not  bloom  much  the  first  year.  Usually  per- 
fectly hardy. 

Dibbers  are  hand  tools  used  for  mak- 
ing holes    in  which   to    set    plants  or  to  drop 
seeds.     They  are  better  than  a  hoe  or  a  spade 
for  most  transplanting.     For  small  plants,  as  cabbages  and 
tomatoes,  a  cylindrical  Dibber  is  generally  used.     (See  the 
lower  one  in  the  cut.)     It  can  be  made  from  an  old  spade 


94  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

handle  or  any  hardwood  stick.  When  broad  holes  are 
wanted,  the  triangular  iron  Dibber  (sold  by  dealers)  is  ex- 
cellent. It  is  particularly  useful  in  hard  soils. 

Dicentra  includes  the  Bleeding  Heart ;  also 
the  native  little  Dutchman's  Breeches  and  Squirrel  Corn, 
and  a  few  other  species.  All  are  hardy  perennials  of 
the  easiest  culture,  blooming  in  spring.  In  common  with 
all  perennial  herbs,  they  are  benefited  by  a  winter  mulch  of 
leaves  or  litter.  Propagated  by  dividing  the  clumps. 

Dictamnus.     FRAXINELLA  or  GAS  PLANT.    An 

old  border  plant  (perennial  herb)  with  white  or  pale  red 
flowers.  The  leaves  of  the  plant  emit  a  strong  odor  when 
rubbed,  likened  to  that  of  the  lemon  verbena.  It  has  been 
advertised  as  the  Gas  Plant  from  the  fact  that  the  plant 
exudes  an  oily  matter  that  may  be  ignited,  especially  in 
warm,  dry  weather.  Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  The  plant  blooms  the  third  year, 
and  improves  with  age.  Set  plants  3  feet  apart.  Height  2 
to  3  feet. 

Dill.  An  annual  aromatic  herb  that  will  seed 
itself  if  seeds  are  left  to  ripen,  and  an  abundance  of  plants 
may  always  be  had.  The  culture  is  of  the  easiest.  The 
seeds  are  often  used  to  flavor  pickles. 

Diseases.  Diseases  of  plants  may  be  caused 
by  some  physiological  disturbance  to  the  plant  system,  or  by 
the  incursions  of  some  parasitic  organism,  as  insects  or  fungi. 
The  work  of  insects,  however,  is  ordinarily  not  classed  with 
plant  Diseases  (see  Insects).  Of  Diseases  which  are  caused 
by  plant  parasites  or  by  physiological  disturbances,  there 
are  two  general  groups  : 

(1)  Parasitic  fungous  Diseases,  such  as  the  apple-scab, 
black-rot  and  mildew  of  the  grape,  leaf-blight  of  the  plum 
and  pear,  black -knot,  and  the  like.  These  Diseases  are 
characterized  by  definite  spots,  discolorations  or  excres- 
cences, which  are  more  or  less  scattered  over  the  surface  of 


DISEASES  95 

the  leaf,  fruit  or  branch.  As  a  rule,  the  leaves  and  fruits 
which  are  attacked  have  a  tendency  to  drop  from  the  tree. 
The  general  treatment  for  these  Diseases  is  to  spray  with 
some  fungicidal  mixture,  like  the  Bordeaux  mixture  or  the 
ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper.  The  treatment  is  useful 
in  proportion  as  it  is  applied  early  and  thoroughly.  After 
the  fungus  once  gets  into  the  tissues  of  the  host-plant,  it  is 
difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  kill  it.  If,  however,  the  fungi- 
cide is  upon  the  plant  before  the  fungus  is,  the  parasite 
may  not  be  able  to  obtain  a  foothold.  Even  after  it  does 
obtain  a  foothold,  it  is  probable,  however,  that  the  spray 
will  check  its  spread  by  preventing  the  development  of  its 
external  parts. 

(2)  The  physiological  and  bacterial  Diseases,  or  those 
which  are  termed  constitutional  troubles.  In  these  cases 
there  are  rarely  any  definite  spots,  as  in  the  attacks  of 
parasitic  fungi,  but  the  entire  leaf,  or  even  the  entire  plant, 
or  a  large  part  of  it,  shows  a  general  weakening  and  Dis- 
ease, as  if  there  were  some  cutting  off  of  the  accustomed 
source  of  nourishment.  Such  Diseases  are  very  likely  to  be 
seen  in  a  general  yellowing  and  death  of  the  leaf,  in  the 
dying  of  the  leaf  along  the  main  veins  and  around  the 
edges,  showing  that  the  difficulty  is  one  which  affects  the 
entire  leaf,  and  not  any  particular  part  of  it.  In  general, 
there  is  a  tendency  for  the  foliage  in  plants  so  attacked  to 
wither  up  and  hang  on  the  tree  for  a  time.  The  peach- 
yellows  and  pear  blight  are  Diseases  of  this  kind.  There 
are  no  specific  treatments  for  troubles  of  this  sort.  They 
must  be  approached  by  what  physicians  call  prophylaxis  — 
that  is,  by  methods  of  sanitation  and  prevention.  The  dis- 
eased plants  or  parts  are  cut  away  and  burned.  All  those 
conditions  which  seem  to  favor  the  development  of  the  Dis- 
ease are  removed.  Varieties  which  are  particularly  sus- 
ceptible are  discarded.  Careful  management  in  matters  of 
this  sort  is  often  much  more  important  than  any  attempt  at 
specific  treatment. 


96        THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

Dolichos.     Mentioned  under  Hyacinth  Bean. 

Dracaenas  of  the  conservatories  (properly 
mostly  CORDYLINES)  are  sometimes  used  as  house  plants, 
Protect  from  direct  sunlight,  keep  an  even  and  fairly  high 
temperature,  water  freely  when  they  are  growing.  When 
the  plants  begin  to  fail,  return  them  to  the  florist  for  recu- 
peration, where  they  may  have  equable  conditions.  They 
are  handsome  long-leaved  foliage  plants,  excellent  for 
jardinieres. 

Drainage  serves  two  purposes:  first,  to  carry 
superfluous  water  from  the  land;  second,  to  lower  the  water- 
table  or  hard-pan,  and  to  make  the  soil  loose  and  friable 
above.  Nearly  all  hard  clay  lands  are  much  benefited  by 
draining,  even  though  they  are  not  too  wet.  The  region  of 
free  or  standing  water  is  lowered  and  air  is  admitted  into 
the  soil,  rendering  it  fine  and  mellow.  For  carrying  off 
mere  surface  water,  surface  or  open  ditches  are  sufficient ; 
but  if  the  soil  is  to  be  ameliorated,  the  drain  must  be  be- 
neath the  surface.  The  best  underdrains  are  those  which 
use  hollow  or  cylindrical  tiles,  but  very  good  results  may  be 
had  by  making  drains  from  stones.  In  regions  where  there 
are  many  flat  stones,  a  very  good  conduit  may  be  laid  with 
them,  but  they  are  likely  to  get  out  of  order.  If  there  is 
considerable  fall  to  the  ditch,  the  bottom  may  be  filled  for 
the  space  of  10  inches  or  a  foot  with  common  stones  rolled 
in,  and  the  water  will  find  its  way  between  them.  If  the 
stones  are  even  deeper  than  this,  the  results  will  be  better; 
and  such  ditches  also  provide  place  for  disposing  of  super- 
fluous stones. 

The  deeper  the  ditch  the  further  it  will  draw  on  either 
side.  It  should  always  be  deep  enough  to  be  protected  from 
freezing,  particularly  if  tiles  are  used.  Three  feet  should 
be  the  least  depth,  and  3%  feet  is  a  good  average  depth. 
Drains  as  deep  as  this  need  not  be  placed  oftener  than  2  to  3 
rods  apart,  unless,  in  garden  conditions,  it  is  desired  to 


DRAINAGE— ECHEVER1A  97 

very  thoroughly  ameliorate  a  heavy  clay  soil,  in  which  case 
they  may  be  placed  every  20  feet.  The  better  the  fall 
the  quicker  the  drain  will  act  and  the  more  permanent  it  will 
be,  as  it  will  tend  to  clean  itself  and  not  fill  up  with  silt. 
It  is  important  that  the  outlet  be  entirely  free,  and  it  should 
be  protected  with  stones  or  mason  work.  The  roots  of  some 
trees,  particularly  of  willows  and  elms,  are  attracted  by  tile 
drains,  and  often  fill  up  the  pipes.  "When  the  drain  goes 
near  such  trees,  therefore,  it  is  well  to  cement  the  joints. 
In  general  practice,  however,  the  joints  should  not  be 
cemented,  because  a  large  part  of  the  drainage  water  enters 
at  those  places.  In  laying  the  tiles,  it  is  well  to  cover  the 
joints  with  inverted  sod,  tarred  paper,  wisps  of  straw, 
stones  or  other  material.  This  prevents  the  fresh  earth 
from  falling  in  between  the  joints,  and  by  the  time  the  ma- 
terial is  decayed  the  earth  will  have  become  so  thoroughly 
set  that  no  further  trouble  will  result.  Although  under- 
drains  take  off  superfluous  water,  nevertheless  an  under- 
drained  soil  will  hold  more  moisture  than  one  which  is  not 
drained,  particularly  in  the  case  of  clay  lands  with  high 
subsoils.  This  is  because  fine,  mallow  soils  are  ablo  to  hold 
more  moisture  than  very  loose  and  open  or  very  dense  and 
compact  ones.  A  well  constructed  underdrain  should  last 
indefinitely. 

Dutchman's  Pipe.     See  Aristolochia. 

Echeveria.  Tender  succulents  largely  used  for 
carpet  bedding  and  rock  gardens.  Echeveria  secunda  is  some- 
times called  OLD-HEN-AND-CHICKENS,  from  the  little  plants 
that  grow  out  from  the  stem  of  the  parent  plant  and  show 
around  the  edges  of  the  rosette  top;  but  the  hardy  Hen- 
and-Chickens  of  old  gardens  is  a  different  but  closely  allied 
plant  (Sempervivum  tectorum).  All  the  species  are  of  easy 
culture  and  thrive  on  sandy  soil.  They  should  not  be 
planted  out  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  over  and  the  ground 
thoroughly  warm.  Propagated  by  the  offsets.  Height  3 


98  THE    PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

inches.  The  name  Echeveria  is  now  given  up  by  bota- 
nists for  Cotyledon. 

Egg-plant.     GUINEA  SQUASH.     Unless  one  has 

a  greenhouse  or  a  very  warm  hotbed,  the  growing  of  Egg- 
plants in  the  North  should  be  left  to  the  professional  gar- 
dener, as  the  young  plants  are  very  tender,  and  should  be 
grown  without  a  check.     The  seed  should  be  sown  in  the 
hotbed  or  greenhouse  about  April  10,  keeping  a  temperature 
of  from  65°  to  70°.     When  the  seedlings  have  made  three 
rough  leaves,  they  may  be  pricked  out  into  shallow  boxes, 
or,  still  better,  into  3-inch  pots.     The  pots  or  boxes  should 
be  plunged  to  the  rim  in  soil  in  a  hotbed  or  coldframe  so 
situated  that  protection  may  be  given  on  chilly  nights.     The 
10th  of  June  is  early  enough  to  plant  them  out  in  central 
New  York.      The  soil  in  which  they  are  to  grow  cannot  well 
be  made  too  rich,  as  they  have  only  a  short  season  in  which 
to  develop  their  fruits.     The  plants  are  usually  set  3  feet 
apart  each  way.     A  dozen  plants  are  sufficient 
for  the  needs  of  a  large  family,  as  each  plant 
should  yield  from  two  to  six  large  fruits.     The 
fruits  are  fit  to  eat  at  all  stages  of  growth,  from 
those   the    size  of  a  large  egg  to  their  largest 
development.     One  ounce  of  seed  will  furnish 
600  to  800  plants. 

The  New  York  Improved  Purple  is  the  stan- 

ITew  York  Purple  Egg-plant  dard  variety>       Black  pekin  ig  good<       For  ear]y> 

or  for  a  short-season  climate,  the  Early  Dwarf  Purple  is 
excellent. 

Endive.     As  a  fall  salad  vegetable,  this  should 

be  better  known,  it  being  far  superior  to  lettuce  at  that 
time  and  as  easily  grown.  For  fall  use,  the  seed  may  be 
sown  from  June  to  August,  and  as  the  plants  become  fit  to 
eat  about  the  same  time  from  sowing  as  lettuce  does,  a  suc- 
cession may  be  had  until  cold  weather.  The  plants  will 
need  protection  from  the  severe  fall  frosts,  and  this  may  be 
given  by  carefully  lifting  the  plants  and  transplanting  to  a 


ENDIVE  — EVERGREENS  99 

frame,  where  sash  or  cloth  may  be  used  to  cover  them  in 
freezing  weather.  The  leaves,  which  constitute  practically 
the  whole  plant,  are  blanched  before  being  used,  either  by 
tying  together  with  some  soft  material  or  by  standing  boards 
on  each  side  of  the  row,  allowing  the  top  of  the  boards  to 
meet  over  the  center  of  the  row.  The  rows  should  be  \% 
or  2  feet  apart,  the  plants  1  foot  apart  in  the  rows.  One 
ounce  of  seed  will  sow  150  feet  of  drill. 

Eschscholtzia.     See  California  Poppy. 

Eutoca.  Hardy  early -flowering  annuals  hav- 
ing pink  or  blue  flowers,  good  for  masses.  Sow  seed  early 
where  wanted.  Height  1  foot.  Eutocas  are  properly  classed 
with  Phacelias. 

Evergreens.  Evergreens  are  plants  which  hold 
their  foliage  in  winter.  Ordinarily,  however,  in  this  country 
the  word  Evergreen  is  understood  to  mean  coniferous 
trees  with  persistent  leaves,  as  pines,  spruces,  firs,  cedars, 
junipers,  arborvitae,  retinosporas,  and  the  like.  These  trees 
have  always  been  favorites  with  plant  lovers,  as  they  have 
very  distinctive  forms  and  other  characteristics.  Many  of 
them  are  of  the  easiest  culture.  It  is  a  common  notion  that, 
since  spruces  and  other  conifers  grow  so  symmetrically, 
they  will  not  stand  pruning  ;  but  this  is  an  error.  They 
may  be  pruned  with  as  good  effect  as  other  trees,  and  if 
they  tend  to  grow  too  tall  the  leader  may  be  cut  out  with- 
out fear.  A  new  leader  will  arise,  but  in  the  meantime  the 
upward  growth  of  the  tree  will  be  somewhat  checked,  and 
the  effect  will  be  to  make  the  tree  dense.  The  tips  of 
the  branches  may  also  be  headed  in  with  the  same  effect.  The 
beauty  of  an  Evergreen  lies  in  its  natural  form  ;  therefore, 
it  should  not  be  sheared  into  unusual  shapes,  but  a  gentle 
trimming  back,  as  suggested,  will  tend  to  prevent  the  Nor- 
way spruce  and  others  from  growing  open  and  ragged. 
After  the  tree  attains  some  age,  4  or  5  inches  may  be  taken 
off  the  ends  of  the  main  branches  every  year  or  two  with 


100  THE    PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

good  results.  This  slight  trimming  is  ordinarily  done  with 
Waters'  long-handled  pruning  shears. 

There  is  much  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  proper  time 
for  the  transplanting  of  Evergreens,  which  means  that  there 
is  more  than  one  season  in  which  they  may  be  moved.  It 
is  ordinarily  unsafe  to  transplant  them  in  the  fall  in  north- 
ern climates  or  bleak  situations,  since  the  evaporation  from 
the  foliage  during  the  winter  is  likely  to  injure  the  plant. 
The  best  results  are  usually  secured  when  they  are  trans- 
planted just  as  new  growth  is  beginning,  rather  late  in  the 
spring.  Some  people  also  plant  them  in  August,  and  the 
roots  secure  a  hold  of  the  soil  before  winter.  In  transplant- 
ing conifers,  it  is  very  important  that  the  roots  be  not  ex- 
posed to  the  sun.  They  should  be  moistened  and  covered 
with  burlaps  or  other  material.  The  holes  should  be  ready 
to  receive  them.  If  the  trees  are  large,  or  if  it  has  been 
necessary  to  trim  in  the  roots,  the  top  should  be  cut  when 
the  tree  is  set.  Large  Evergreens  (those  10  feet  and  more 
high)  are  usually  best  transplanted  late  in  winter,  at  a  time 
when  a  large  ball  of  earth  may  be  moved  with  them.  A 
trench  is  dug  around  the  tree,  it  being  deepened  a  little  day 
by  day  so  that  the  frost  can  work  into  the  earth  and  hold  it 
in  shape.  When  the  ball  is  thoroughly  frozen,  it  is  hoisted 
onto  a  stone-boat  and  moved  to  its  new  position. 

For  low  hedges  or  screens,  one  of  the  most  serviceable 
Evergreens  is  the  arborvitae  in  its  various  forms.  Red  ce- 
dars are  also  useful.  Perhaps  the  handsomest  of  all  of  them 
for  such  purposes  is  the  ordinary  hemlock  spruce  ;  but  it  is 
usually  difficult  to  move.  Transplanted  trees  from  nurseries 
are  usually  safest.  If  the  trees  are  taken  from  the  wild, 
they  should  be  selected  from  open  and  sunny  places.  For 
neat  and  compact  effects  near  porches  and  along  walks,  the 
dwarf  retinosporas  are  very  useful.  Most  of  the  pines  and 
spruces  are  too  coarse  for  planting  very  close  to  the  house. 
They  are  better  at  some  distance  removed,  where  they  serve 
as  a  background  to  other  planting.  If  they  are  wanted  foi 


EVERGREENS— 


individual  specimens,  they  should  be  given  plenty  of  room, 
so  that  the  limbs  will  not  be  crowded  and  the  tree  become 
misshapen.  Whatever  else  is  done  to  the  spruces  and  firs, 
the  lower  limbs  should  not  be  trimmed  up,  at  least  not  until 
the  tree  has  become  so  old  that  the  lowest  branches  die. 
Some  species  hold  their  branches  much  longer  than  others. 
The  oriental  spruce  (Picea  orientalis)  is  one  of  the  best  in 
this  respect.  The  occasional  slight  heading-  in,  which  we 
have  mentioned,  will  tend  to  preserve  the  lower  limbs,  and 
it  will  not  be  marked  enough  to  alter  the  form  of  the  tree. 

Everlastings  are  flowers  which  retain  their 
shape  and  usually  their  color  when  they  are  dried.  Most  of 
them  are  members  of  the  composite  family.  In  order  to 
have  them  hold  shape  and  color,  cut  them  with  very  long 
steins  just  before  they  are  fully  expanded,  and  hang  them  in 
an  airy  place  away  from  the  sun.  They  are  all  annuals,  or 
grown  as  such,  and  are  of  very  easy  culture.  Sow  seeds 
where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  Good  kinds  are  Ammobi- 
um,  Gomphrena  or  Bachelor's  Buttons,  Bhodanthe,  He- 
lichrysum,  Xeranthemum,  and  Acrocliniuin.  Certain  wild 
composites  may  be  similarly  used,  particularly  Anaphalis 
and  species  of  Gnaphalium.  Some  of  the  grasses  make 
excellent  additions  to  dry  bouquets  (see  Grass).  With  these 
dry  bouquets,  various  seed  pods  look  well. 

Fenzlia.  Little  hardy  annuals,  having  a  pro- 
fusion of  bloom  through  the  entire  summer.  The  flowers  are 
a  delicate  pink,  with  yellow  throat  surrounded  by  dark 
spots.  A  charming  edging  plant  or  window  box  subject. 
Sow  the  seed  in  boxes  or  where  plants  are  wanted,  and  thin 
to  the  distance  of  10  inches.  Height  3  to  4  inches.  Now 
classed  with  Gilia. 

Ferns.  Probably  the  one  Fern  grown  most 
extensively  as  a  house  plant  is  the  small  -leaved  Maidenhair 
Fern  (or  Adiantum  gracillimum)  .  This  and  other  species  are 
among  the  finest  of  house  plants,  when  sufficient  moisture 


102  '-7HF     PRACTICAL,    GARDEN -BOOK 

•       '       .      »  •        ••'..• 

can  be  given.  They  make  fine  specimens,  as  well  as  serv- 
ing the  purpose  of  greenery  for  cut -flowers.  Other  species 
often  grown  for  house  plants  are  A.  cuneatum  and  A. 
Capillus-  Veneris.  All  these  do  well  in  a  mixture  of  fibrous 
sod,  loam,  and  sand,  with  ample  drainage  material.  They 
may  be  divided  if  an  increase  is  wanted. 

Other  Ferns  for  house  culture  include 
Nephrolepis  exaltata.  This  is  no  doubt  the 
most  easily  grown  of  the  list,  flourishing  in 
a  sitting-room.  The  new  variety  of  N.  exal- 
tata, called  the  Boston  Fern  (see  figure), 
is  a  decided  addition  to  this  family,  having  a 
drooping  habit,  covering  the  pot  and  making 
a  fine  stand  or  bracket  plant. 

Several  species  of  Pteris,  particularly  P. 
serrulata,  are  valuable  house  Ferns,  but  re- 
quire a  warmer  situation  than  those  mentioned  above.  They 
will  also  thrive  better  in  a  shady  or  ill -lighted  corner. 

Perfect  drainage  and  care  in  watering  have  more  to  do 
with  the  successful  growing  of  Ferns  than  any  special  mix- 
ture of  soils.  If  the  drainage  material  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  or  box  is  sufficient,  there  is  little  danger  of  over- 
watering;  but  water-logged  soil  is  always  to  be  avoided, 
Do  not  use  clay  soils.  Ferns  need  protection  from  the  di- 
rect sunshine,  and  also  a  moist  atmosphere.  They  thrive 
well  in  a  close  glass  box,  or  window -garden,  if  the  conditions 
can  be  kept  equable. 

The  native  Ferns  transplant  easily  to  the  garden,  and 
they  make  an  attractive  addition  to  the  side  of  a  house,  or 
as  an  admixture  in  a  hardy  border.  The  Ostrich  and  Cin- 
namon Ferns  are  the  best  subjects.  Give  all  outdoor  Ferns 
a  place  which  is  protected  from  winds,  otherwise  they  will 
shrivel  and  perhaps  die.  Screen  them  from  the  hot  sun, 
or  give  them  the  shady  side  of  the  building.  See  that  the 
soil  is  uniformly  moist,  and  that  it  does  not  get  too  hot. 
Mulch  with  leaf -mold  in  the  fall. 


FERTILIZERS  103 

Fertilizers.      Soil    is    productive   when    it    has 

good  physical  texture,  plant- food,  and  a  sufficient  supply  of 
moisture.  Even  though  it  has  an  abundance  of  plant-food, 
if  its  texture  is  not  good,  it  will  not  raise  a  good  crop. 
Soil  has  good  texture  when  it  is  open,  mellow,  friable, 
rather  than  loose  and  leachy,  or  hard  and  cloddy.  Commer- 
cial Fertilizers  add  plant-food,  but  usually  they  have  only  a 
small  influence  in  correcting  faulty  texture.  Therefore, 
before  concentrated  Fertilizers  are  applied  to  land,  it  should 
be  gotten  into  good  physical  condition  by  judicious  tillage 
and  by  the  incorporation  of  vegetable  mold  or  humus.  The 
leading  source  of  humus  in  most  gardens  is  stable  manure. 
See  Manure. 

The  plant-food  in  commercial  Fertilizers  is  largely  in  a 
soluble  or  quickly  available  condition.  Therefore,  a  little 
Fertilizer  applied  late  in  the  fall  or  early  in  the  spring  will 
tend  to  start  the  plants  off  quickly  in  the  spring  and  to 
cause  them  to  become  established  before  the  trying  weather 
of  summer.  For  garden  purposes,  it  is  usually  advisable  to 
buy  one  of  the  so-called  complete  Fertilizers;  that  is,  one 
which  contains  nitrogen,  potash  and  phosphoric  acid.  If  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  stalk  and  foliage  is  wanted  rather  than 
flowers  or  fruit,  an  application  of  nitrogen  alone  is  usually 
advisable.  The  most  readily  available  nitrogen  in  commer- 
cial form  is  that  which  is  afforded  by  nitrate  of  soda  and 
sulfate  of  ammonia.  In  garden  practice  this  may  be  ap- 
plied at  the  rate  of  300  to  400  pounds  an  acre,  although  this 
quantity  is  more  than  is  profitable  to  use  in  most  general 
field  or  agricultural  conditions.  If  it  is  desired  to  have 
stout,  stocky  plants,  with  early  and  profuse  bloom,  it  is 
ordinarily  advisable  to  use  somewhat  sparingly  of  nitrogen 
and  to  use  a  little  more  heavily  of  potash  and  phosphoric 
acid.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  leguminous  plants, 
which  have  the  power  of  appropriating  atmospheric  nitro- 
gen, and  among  such  plants  are  sweet  peas.  Heavy  ferti- 
lizing of  sweet  pea  land  with  strong  stable  manure  tends  to 


104  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

make  the  vines  grow  too  tall  and  to  bear  comparatively  few 
flowers.  For  dressing  of  lawns,  a  Fertilizer  which  is  com- 
paratively rich  in  nitrogen  is  usually  to  be  advised. 

An  important  value  of  commercial  Fertilizers  is  to  use 
them  to  start  off  the  plants  quickly  in  the  spring.  The  food 
is  available  and  acts  at  once.  When  used  for  this  purpose, 
the  Fertilizer  may  be  applied  in  the  hill;  but  when  it  is  de- 
sired for  the  enriching  of  the  land  and  for  the  support  of  the 
crop  throughout  the  season,  it  should  be  applied  to  the  en- 
tire surface.  Always  avoid  putting  the  Fertilizer  on  the 
crown  of  the  plant,  or  directly  in  contact  with  it.  It  is 
usually  better  to  work  the  Fertilizer  in  lightly.  For  most 
garden  operations,  it  is  better  to  apply  in  spring. 

Feverfew.     See  Pyretlirum. 

Fig.  The  Fig  is  little  grown  in  the  East 
except  as  a  curiosity,  but  on  the  Pacific  coast  it  has 
gained  more  or  less  prominence  as  an  orchard  fruit.  The 
trees  are  usually  planted  at  distances  of  about  18  to  25  feet 
apart.  Figs  will  stand  considerable  frost,  and  seedling  or 
inferior  varieties  grow  out  of  doors  without  protection  as 
far  north  as  Virginia.  Many  of  the  varieties  fruit  on  young 
sprouts,  and,  inasmuch  as  the  roots  will  stand  considerable 
cold,  these  varieties  will  often  give  a  few  Figs  in  the  north- 
ern states.  Figs  have  been  fruited  in  the  open  ground  in 
Michigan.  In  all  frosty  countries,  however,  the  Fig  should 
be  laid  down  during  the  winter  time.  The  following  notes 
from  Professor  Massey,  of  North  Carolina,  indicate  how  this 
may  be  done : 

"The  light  hoar-frosts  that  have  occurred  here  affected 
vegetation  only  on  low  grounds,  and  today  (November  5) 
our  gardens  on  high  ground  show  no  signs  of  frost.  Lima 
beans  and  tomato  vines  are  as  green  as  in  summer  time, 
and  this  morning  we  gathered  ripe  Figs  from  our  trees  in 
the  garden  —  the  latest  I  have  ever  known  Figs  to  ripen. 
As  the  early  crop  of  Figs  ripens  in  July  (if  it  escapes  the 


PIGS— FLOWER    BEDS 


105 


Branches  of  Fig  tree 
pegged  down 


ig  branches  covered 


Winter  frosts,  for  the  fruit  is  now  set  on  the  trees),  and  the 
late  crop  begins  in  August  and  continues  to  ripen  in  suc- 
cession till  frost,  it  is  easy  to  see  what  a  desirable  fruit  the 
Fig  is.  In  this  section  it  is  easy  to  have  a  great  abundance 
of  Figs,  and  it  is  possible  almost  anywhere  in  the 
United  States  to  have  both  early  and  late  crops 
in  abundance  by  taking  a  little  trouble  to  protect 
the  trees  in  winter.  Years  ago  the  writer  grew 
Figs  in  abundance  in  a  very  cold  locality  in 
northern  Maryland,  and  never  failed 
to  get  a  good  crop.  '  Where  the  winter 
temperature  seldom  drops  lower  than 
18°  or  20°  above  zero,  Figs  will  need  no  special 
protection  if  sheltered  from  cold  winds.  In 
colder  climates  they  should  be  branched  from  the 
ground,  and,  after  the  leaves  have  fallen,  be  bent 
^o  the  ground  in  four  bundles  and  covered  with 
earth,  making  a  sharp  mound  over  the  center  and 
sloping  off  like  a  four-pointed  star  or  cross,  as  shown  in 
the  cuts,  taken  from  Bulletin  74  of  North  Carolina  Ex- 
periment Station."  t 

Flower  Beds.  Two  classes  of  subjects  are  to 
be  considered  in  the  discussion  of  Flower  Beds  :  those  con- 
cerned with  the  location  of  the  bed  ;  those  concerned  with 
the  actual  making  of  the  bed  itself.  Most  persons  do  not 
consider  the  former  subject.  If  one  wants  a  flower  garden  in 
which  there  is  to  be  a  collection  of  plants  grown  for  the 
plants'  sake,  the  garden  should  be  placed  at  the  rear  or  one 
side,  and  may  be  laid  out  in  regular  fashion  like  a  vegetable 
garden.  If  the  flowers  are  to  be  a  part  of  the  home  picture, 
—  that  is,  a  part  of  the  place  itself,—  then  they  may  be 
freely  distributed  amongst  the  border  planting,  or  as  edgings 
along  groups  of  shrubbery.  It  is  rarely,  if  ever,  allowable 
to  place  formal  beds  in  the  lawn  in  home  grounds.  The 
place  for  carpet-bedding  is  usually  in  parks  or  other  public 
areas,  in  sections  which  are  set  aside  and  devoted  to  that 


106  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN  -  BOOK 

particular  purpose,  the  same  as  another  section  may  be  de- 
voted to  a  zoological  garden,  play -ground  or  to  other  spe- 
cific use.  Flowers  which  are  grown  in  the  middle  of  the 
lawn  have  little  relation  to  other  planting,  and  they  have  no 
background  to  show  them  off  to  good  advantage.  It  is  also 
difficult  to  grow  them  in  small  beds  in  the  grass,  since  they 
are  exposed  to  sun  and  wind,  and  the  grass  roots  absorb  the 
food  and  moisture.  In  the  formal  bed,  every  effort  must  be 
made  to  keep  it  prim,  otherwise  it  becomes  displeasing  ; 
whereas,  if  the  flowers  are  planted  more  or  less  promiscu- 
ously in  large,  irregular  borders,  or  along  the  edge  of  shrub- 
bery, the  failure  of  one  or  even  of  a  dozen  plants  is  not  a 
serious  matter.  The  growing  of  plants  in  formal  designs 
requires  so  much  care  and  attention  that  a  large  part  of  the 
fun  of  plant-growing  is  lost.  Such  plant-growing  should 
ordinarily  be  left  to  those  who  make  a  business  of  it. 

In  making  a  Flower  Bed,  see  that  the  ground  is  well 
drained  ;  that  the  subsoil  is  deep  ;  that  the  land  is  in  a 
mellow  and  friable  condition,  and  that  it  is  rich.  Each  fall 
it  may  have  a  mulch  of  rotted  manure  or  of  leaf -mold,  which 
may/be  spaded  under  deeply  in  the  spring  ;  or  the  land  may 
be  spaded  and  left  rough  in  the  fall,  which  is  a  good  prac- 
tice when  the  soil  has  much  clay.  Make  the  Flower  Beds  as 
broad  as  possible,  so  that  the  roots  of  the  grass  running  in 
from  either  side  will  not  meet  beneath  the  flowers  and  rob 
them  of  food  and  moisture.  It  is  well  to  add  a  little  com- 
mercial fertilizer  each  fall  or  spring. 

Flowering  Maple.     See  Abutilon. 

Forget-me-not.  This  old  favorite  grows  so 
easily,  looks  so  cheerful,  and  with  a  little  care  will  bloom 
so  long,  that  it  should  have  a  place  in  every  collection  of 
flowering  plants.  It  is  perennial,  but  the  best  results  may 
be  had  by  dividing  the  roots  as  often  as  every  other  year;  or 
seedlings  may  be  taken  up  from  around  the  old  plants. 
They  require  a  moist  soil,  with  shade  a  part  of  the  day. 
They  will  thrive  exceedingly  if  grown  in  a  frame  like 


FORGET-ME-NOT— FREESIA  107 

pansies.  Easily  grown  from  seeds,  usually  blooming  the 
first  fall.  Excellent  for  low  edgings.  Height  6  inches. 

Four-o'clock.    MIRABILIS.      Tender  annual,   a 

plant  of  old-fashioned  gardens,  and  always  interesting. 
Grows  2  to  3  feet  high.  Drop  seeds  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand,  thinning  them  to  12  to  18  inches  apart.  The  colors 
are  white  and  pink.  There  are  variegated-leaved  forms; 
also  dwarfs.  Excellent  for  the  back  row  in  a  bed  of 
annuals. 

Foxglove,  or  DIGITALIS.     Foxgloves  make  most 

effective  border  plants,  either  as  a  background  or  planted 
among  other  things.  The  tall  flower- spikes  are 
covered  during  the  blooming  period  with  funnel- 
shaped  drooping  flowers  in  various  colors  and  with 
fine  markings.  Some  of  the  newer  varieties  have 
flowers  that  rival  the  Gloxinias  in  shadings  and  mark- 
ings. The  plants  are  perfectly  hardy,  growing  in  one 
situation  for  a  number  of  years ;  but,  as  with  many 
other  perennials,  they  are  all  the  better  for  being 
divided  at  intervals.  They  maybe  grown  readily  from 
seed.  Sow  in  boxes  under  glass  or  in  the  border 
where  wanted.  They  bloom  the  second  year.  A  rich, 
deep  soil  and  partial  shade  suit  their  requirements.  Foxglove 
Period  of  bloom,  July  and  August.  Height  2  to  4  feet. 

Frame.     See  Hotbed  and  Coldframe.    . 

Freesia.  One  of  the  best  and  most  easily  handled 
winter-flowering  bulbs.  The  white  or  yellowish  bell -shaped 
flowers  are  produced  on  slender  stalks  just  above  the  foliage, 
to  the  number  of  six  to  eight  in  a  cluster.  They  are  very 
fragrant,  and  last  for  a  considerable  time  when  picked. 
The  bulbs  are  small,  and  look  as  though  they  could  not 
produce  a  growth  of  foliage  and  flowers,  but  even  the 
smallest  mature  bulb  will  prove  satisfactory.  Several 
bulbs  should  be  planted  together  in  a  pot,  box  or  pan,  in 
October,  if  wanted  for  the  holidays,  or  later  if  wanted  at 


108       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

Easter.  The  plants  bloom  from  ten  to  twelve  weeks  from 
planting,  under  ordinary  care.  No  special  treatment  is  re- 
quired ;  keep  the  plants  cool  and  moist  through  the  growing 
season.  The  soil  should  contain  a  little  sand  mixed  with 
fibrous  loam,  and  the  pot  should  be  well  drained.  After 
flowering,  gradually  withhold  water  and  the  tops  will  die 
down,  after  which  the  roots  may  be  shaken  out  and  rested 
until  time  to  plant  in  fall.  Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  them 
perfectly  dry.  The  bulbs  increase  rapidly  from  offsets. 
Plants  may  also  be  grown  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown 
as  soon  as  ripe,  giving  blooming  plants  the  second  or  third 
year.  Height  12  or  15  inches.  Easy  to  bloom  in  the  win- 
dow. The  white  form  (Freesia  refracta  alba)  is  the  best. 
See  Bulbs. 

Fritillaria,    or    FRITILLARY.     Bulbous    plants, 

the  commoner  species  hardy.  Only  the  Crown  Imperial  is 
well  known  in  this  country.  This  is  an  old-fashioned  plant, 
which  takes  care  of  itself  when  once  planted.  The  other 
hardy  Fritillarias  are  treated  like  tulips. 

Frost.  The  light  frosts  of  late  spring  and  of 
early  fall  may  be  prevented  by  any  means  which  will  keep 
the  air  in  motion,  or  which  will  fill  the  air  with  moisture  or 
cloud -like  vapor,  so  that  there  is  less  radiation  from  the 
ground.  When  frost  is  expected,  it  is  well  to  water  the 
plants  and  the  ground  thoroughly.  This  will  ordinarily  pro- 
tect them  from  two  or  three  degrees  of  still  frost.  The  water 
should  be  applied  just  at  nightfall.  On  larger  areas,  it  is 
often  practicable  to  make  a  smudge.  In  order  to  be 
effective,  the  smudge  must  be  rather  dense  and  lie  over 
the  whole  area,  and  it  should  be  kept  up  until  the  danger 
from  frost  is  past.  Material  which  burns  very  slowly  and 
with  much  smoke  is  preferable.  Moist  manure  or  straw  or 
other  litter  is  useful.  Materials  which  are  dry  enough  to 
blaze  are  of  little  use.  Ordinarily,  frost  comes  towards 
morning.  It  is  well  to  have  the  piles  of  rubbish  ready  at 
nightfall  and  have  them  lighted  toward  the  latter  part  of 


FROST— FUNGI  109 

the  night,  when  the  frost  is  expected.  The  smudge  should 
be  kept  up  until  sunrise.  It  is  well  to  have  these  piles  of 
smudge  material  on  all  sides  of  the  area ;  or  if  the  area  is  on 
a  slope,  it  may  be  sufficient  to  have  them  on  the  upper 
side,  for  there  is  usually  a  movement  of  air  down  the  hill- 
side and  the  area  will  thereby  be  covered  with  the  smudge. 
For  a  thorough  protection,  it  is  best  to  have  many  small 
piles  rather  than  a  few  large  ones.  If  the  piles  are  placed 
every  ten  feet  around  the  areas,  better  results  are  to  be  ex- 
pected. There  are  especially  prepared  tar- like  materials 
for  use  in  smudging  plantations,  but  they  are  little  used  in 
this  country,  although  some  of  them  are  excellent. 

Fuchsia.  Well-known  window  or  greenhouse 
shrub.  It  is  readily  grown  from  cuttings.  Soft,  green  wood 
should  be  used  for  cuttings,  and  it  will  root  in  about  three 
weeks,  when  the  cuttings  should  be  potted.  Take  care  not 
to  have  them  pot-bound  while  in  growth,  but  do  not 
over- pot  when  bloom  is  wanted.  Given  warmth  and  good 
soil,  they  will  make  fine  plants  in 
three  months  or  less.  In  well  pro- 
tected, partially  shady  places  they 
may  be  planted  out,  growing  into 
miniature  bushes  by  fall.  Plants  may 
be  kept  on  from  year  to  year;  and 
if  the  branches  are  well  cut  back  after 
blooming,  abundant  new  bloom  will 
come.  But  it  is  usually  best  to  make 
new  plants  each  year  from  cuttings, 

since  young  plants  usually  bloom  most  profusely  and  de- 
mand less  care.  Fuchsias  are  amongst  the  best  of  window 
subjects. 

Fumigation  is  mentioned  under  Insects. 

Fungi.  Flowerless,  leafless  plants,  living  mostly 
on  food  (either  living  or  dead)  which  has  been  prepared  by 
other  plants  or  by  animals.  Molds,  mushrooms  and  puff- 


110  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

balls  are  familiar  examples.  Some  of  the  parasitic  kinds 
cause  great  damage  to  the  plants  or  animals  on  which  they 
live.  Examples  of  these  injurious  parasitic  kinds  are  apple  - 
scab  fungus,  potato  mildew,  grape  mildew,  corn  smut 
fungus,  and  the  like.  Most  of  these  are  combated  by 
spraying  with  materials  containing  copper  or  sulfur. 

Funkia,  or  DAY  LILY.     Hardy  perennial  herbs, 

growing  in  dense  clumps  and  bearing  attractive  foliage. 
They  are  of  the  easiest  culture.  F.  subcordata,  the  white- 
flowered  species,  is  commonest.  Of  blue -flowered  forms  there 
are  several,  of  which  F.  ovata  (or  F.  ccerulea)  is  perhaps 
the  best.  Funkias  are  excellent  for  borders,  or  as  a  formal 
edging  to  long  walks  or  drives.  There  are  variegated  forms. 
Funkias  grow  12  to  24  inches  high,  and  the  flower  clusters 
stand  still  higher.  Propagated  by  dividing  the  roots.  Day 
Lily  is  a  name  applied  also  to  species  of  Hemerocallis, 
which  are  yellow-flowered  lilies. 

Gaillardias  are  plants  that  should  have  a  place 

in  every  garden,  either  as  border  plants  or  for  cutting.  The 
flowers  are  very  showy  and  lasting  in  bouquets,  as 
well  as  on  the  plants.  The  double  form  has  perfect 
balls  of  color.  Gaillardias  are  both  annual  and  per- 
ennial. The  perennials  usually  have  flowers  much 
larger  than  the  annuals ;  and  they  bloom  the  first  year 
if  seed  is  started  early.  These  are  also  propagated  by 
seed  or  cuttings.  If  from  seed,  it  should  be  sown 
under  glass  in  February  or  March,  setting  out  the 
young  plants  where  wanted  when  danger  of  frost  is 
over.  The  cuttings  may  be  made  of  the  new  growth 
in  the  fall  and  wintered  over  in  the  house.  Set  2  feet 
apart.  Height  2  feet,  blooming  from  July  until  hard  frosts. 
The  perennials  are  usually  orange. 

The  annual  kind  (Gaillardia  picta  of  florists)  is  prob- 
ably the  best  kind  for  the  home  garden.  It  is  of  the 
easiest  culture.  Hardy.  Two  feet.  Sow  seeds  where 


GAILLARDI  A— GLADIOLUS  111 

plants   are    to   bloom.      The   colors  of   the   flowers   are   in 
rich  shades  of  yellow  and  red. 
Galanthus.     See  Snowdrop. 

Garlic.  An  onion-like  plant,  the  bulbs  of  which 
are  used  for  flavoring.  Little  known  in  this  country  except 
amongst  those  of  foreign  birth.  It  is  multiplied  the  same 
as  multiplier  onions  —  the  bulb  is  broken  apart  and  each 
bulbule  or  "  clove "  makes  a  new  compound  bulb  in  a  few 
weeks.  Hardy;  plant  in  early  spring,  or  in  the  South  in 
the  fall.  Plant  2  to  3  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

Gas  Plant  is  Dictamnus. 

Geranium.  What  are  generally  known  as 
Geraniums  are,  strictly  speaking,  Pelargoniums,  which  see. 
The  true  Geraniums  are  mostly  hardy  plants,  and  therefore 
should  not  be  confounded  with  the  tender  Pelargoniums. 
Geraniums  are  worthy  a  place  in  a  border.  They  are 
hardy  perennials,  and  may  be  transplanted  early  in  the 
spring,  setting  them  2  feet  apart.  Height  10  to  12  inches. 

The  common  wild  Cranesbill  (Geranium  maculatum)  im- 
proves under  cultivation,  and  is  an  attractive  plant  when  it 
stands  in  front  of  taller  foliage. 

Gilia.  Low -growing  hardy  annuals,  good  for 
front  borders  or  rockwork,  growing  from  seed  very  quickly 
and  continuing  in  flower  a  long  season.  They  will  do  well 
in  light  soil.  Sow  seed  in  the  fall  or  early  spring  where 
plants  are  wanted.  Gilia  tricolor,  blue,  white  and  yellow, 
is  the  best,  but  there  are  excellent  white  and  red  sorts. 

Gladiolus.  A  popular  summer -flowering  bul- 
bous plant,  thriving  best  in  moist,  sandy  loam,  that  has  had 
an  application  of  well  rotted  manure  the  previous  year. 
No  manure  should  be  used  the  year  of  planting,  as  it  has  a 
tendency  to  rot  the  bulbs.  Plantings  maybe  made  from  the 
time  the  ground  is  in  condition  to  work  in  the  spring  until 
late  in  June.  In  planting,  the  bulbs  should  be  set  3  inches 


112  THE    PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

deep  and  8  to  10  inches  apart,  unless  they  are  to  be  grown 
in  groups,  when  they  may  be  planted  five  or  six  in  the 
space  of  1  foot.  Stakes  should  be  furnished  each  plant 
to  support  the  flower- spike.  When  in  groups,  one  stake 
may  be  used,  setting  it  in  the  middle  of  the  circle. 

Gladioli  are  increased  by  bulblets  formed  around  the 
old  bulbs  (or  corms),  or  they  may  be  grown  from  seed.  The 
bulblets  should  be  planted  in  drills  in  April  or  May,  and 
will  grow  to  flowering  size  in  one  or  two  years.  In  the 
same  way,  seed  sown  early  in  drills,  grown  through  the 
summer,  the  little  bulbs  taken  up  and  stored  through  the 
winter  and  again  planted  out,  will  often  make  bulbs  large 
enough  to  flower  the  second  year. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  lift  all  bulbs  before  freezing 
weather,  as  most  varieties  are  tender.  They  should  be  har- 
vested with  the  tops  on,  and  laid  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place 
to  ripen.  The  tops  are  then  cut  off  and  the  bulbs  stored  in 
a  dry  place  (fit  for  potatoes,  but  drier)  until  wanted  the  fol- 
lowing spring.  See  Bulbs. 

Glaucium,  or  HORNED  POPPY.     The  kind  most 

cultivated  (G.  luteum)  has  bright  yellow  flowers  in  July  and 
September.  The  flowers,  contrasting  with  the  deep  cut 
glaucous  leaves,  make  a  fine  effect  in  the  mixed  or  ribbon 
border.  Seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  where 
wanted.  Thin  to  12  inches  apart.  Height  12  to  20  inches. 
Perennial;  but  treated  as  a  hardy  annual. 

Gloxinia.  Choice  greenhouse  tuberous -rooted 
perennials,  sometimes  seen  in  window  gardens,  but  really 
not  adapted  to  them.  Gloxinias  must  have  a  uniform  moist 
and  warm  atmosphere  and  protection  from  the  sun.  They 
will  not  stand  abuse  or  varying  conditions.  Propagated 
often  by  leaf-cuttings,  which  should  give  flowering  plants 
in  one  year.  From  the  leaf,  inserted  half  its  length  in  the 
soil  (  or  sometimes  only  the  petiole  inserted )  a  tuber  arises. 
This  tuber,  after  resting  until  midwinter  or  later,  is  planted 
and  flowering  plants  soon  arise.  Gloxinias  also  grow  readily 


GLOXINIA— GOMPHRENA  113 

from  seeds,  which  may  be  germinated  in  a  temperature  of 
about  70°.  Flowering  plants  may  be  had  in  a  year  if  seeds 
are  sown  in  late  winter  or  early  spring.  This  is  the 
usual  method.  Soil  should  be  porous  and  rich. 

Godetia.  Very  free -blooming  annuals  in  fine 
colors,  harmonizing  well  with  the  California  poppy.  Many 
of  the  varieties  are  beautifully  blotched  with  contrasting 
colors.  They  are  very  satisfactory  plants  for  solid  beds  or 
border  lines,  blooming  from  June  to  October.  Seed  may  be 
sown  in  heat,  and  seedlings  planted  in  open  ground  at  a  dis- 
tance of  18  inches  apart  when  danger  of  frost  is  over.  A 
rather  poor  soil  will  cause  them  to  bloom  better  than  one 
very  rich,  as  they  are  inclined  to  make  a  rank  growth. 
Height  1  to  2  feet. 

Golden  Feather.     See  Pyrethrum. 

Goldenrod  (Solidago  of  many  species). 
The  Goldenrod  of  the  wayside  is  so  familiar  that  the 
thought  of  bringing  it  into  the  garden  is  distasteful 
to  many  persons.  But  if  given  a  suitable  place  in  a 
well  enriched  border,  no  plant  has  greater  possibili- 
ties. A  large  clump  against  a  hedge  of  green,  or 
massed  behind  a  well  grown  plant  of  the  blue -flower- 
ing wild  asters,  makes  a  striking  contrast.  They  bloom 
late  in  the  season,  and  the  rich  yellow  and  golden 
colors  and  the  graceful  forms  are  always  pleasing. 

Goldenrods  will  grow  more  vigorously  and  the  blooms  be 
larger  if  the  roots  are  divided  every  third  or  fourth  year. 
There  are  several  species  catalogued  by  nurserymen,  and 
some  of  the  stock  is  superior  to  the  wild  type,  either  having 
a  larger  truss  of  flowers  or  blooming  later.  Goldenrods 
range  in  height  from  2  to  6  feet.  All  are  easily  propagated 
by  division.  Transplant  in  the  fall,  if  convenient,  although 
spring  planting  may  be  equally  successful. 

Gomphrena.  BACHELOR'S  BUTTON.  GLOBE 
AMARANTH.  A  useful  everlasting  for  winter  bouquets.  Seed 


114  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

may  be  sown  in  heat  in  March,  the  plants  transplanted  once 
before  setting  out  to  cause  them  to  grow  stocky  and  branch- 
ing ;  or  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  warm  place  where  the  plants 
are  to  grow.  The  flowers,  to  retain  their  colors,  should  be 
cut  before  fully  expanded  and  dried  in  a  dark,  airy  place. 
See  Everlastings.  Set  the  plants  18  inches  apart.  Height 
12  inches.  The  heads  resemble  clover  heads.  The  term 
Bachelor's  Button  is  also  given  to  the  cornflower  (Centaurea 
Cyanus) . 

Gooseberry.  Since  the  advent  of  the  practice 
of  spraying  with  fungicides  to  prevent  mildew,  the  cul- 
ture of  the  Gooseberry  has  increased.  There 
is  now  no  reason  why,  with  a  little  care, 
good  crops  of  many  of  the  best  English  va- 
rieties may  not  be  grown.  The  price  for 
good  fruits  of  Gooseberry  is  usually  remu- 
nerative, as  the  market  is  rarely  overstocked  by  the  sudden 
ripening  of  the  crop,  since  the  fruits  ripen  through  a  long 
season.  A  large  part  of  the  crop  is  picked  green  for  culinary 
purposes.  The  leading  market  variety  is  Downing,  a  native 
sort,  which  is  little  subject  to  mildew.  Several  of  the  Eng- 
lish varieties  have  proved  of  value,  having  larger  fruits  than 
the  natives.  Whitesmith,  Chautauqua,  Triumph  and  In- 
dustry are  among  the  best. 

The  propagation  of  the  Gooseberry  is  similar  to  that  of 
the  currant,  although  the  practice  of  earthing  up  a  whole 
plant,  causing  every  branch  thus  covered  to  throw  out  roots, 
is  common  with  the  European  varieties.  The  rooted 
branches  are  cut  off  the  following  spring  and  planted  in 
nursery  rows  or  sometimes  directly  in  the  field.  In  order  to 
succeed  with  this  method,  the  plant  should  have  been  cut 
back  to  the  ground  so  that  all  the  shoots  are  yearling. 

Pruning  is  essentially  the  same  as  for  the  currant 
(which  see);  and  the  treatment  of  the  currant  worm  is  the 
same  as  for  that  fruit. 

Gooseberries  should  l?e  get  (either  in  fall  or  spring)  3  to 


GOOSEBERRY— GRAFTING  115 

4  feet  apart;  rows  5  to  7  feet  apart.  Select  a  rich,  rather 
moist  soil.  The  tops  need  no  winter  protection.  If  mil- 
dew and  worms  are  to  be  kept  in  check,  spraying  must 
be  begun  with  the  very  first  sign  of  trouble  and  be  thor- 
oughly done. 

Gourds  are  valuable  as  rapid -growing  screen 
vines,  the  curious  fruits  of  many  varieties  adding  much  to 
their  attractiveness.  Cultivation  the  same  as  for  melons  or 
squashes.  Height  10  to  15  feet.  Provide  a  chicken-wire 
trellis;  or  let  them  run  on  a  brush  pile. 

Grafting.  Grafting  is  the  operation  of  insert- 
ing a  piece  of  a  plant  into  another  plant  with  the  intention 
that  it  shall  grow.  It  differs  from  the  making  of  cuttings 
in  the  fact  that  the  severed  part  grows  in  another  plant 
rather  than  in  the  soil.  There  are  two  general  kinds  of 
Grafting  —  one  of  which  inserts  a  piece  of  branch  in  the 
stock  (Grafting  proper),  and  one  which  inserts  only  a  bud 
with  little  or  no  wood  attached  (budding).  In  both  cases 
the  success  of  the  operation  depends  upon  the  growing 
together  of  the  cambium  of  the  cion  (or  cutting)  and  that  of 
the  stock.  The  cambium  is  the  new  and  growing  tissue 
which  lies  underneath  the  bark  and  on  the  outside  of  the 
growing  wood.  Therefore,  the  line  of  demarcation  between 
the  bark  and  the  wood  should  coincide  when  the  cion  and 
stock  are  joined.  The  plant  upon  which  the  severed  piece  is 
set  is  called  the  stock.  The  part  which  is  removed  and  set 
into  the  stock  is  called  a  cion  if  it  is  a  piece  of  a  branch,  or 
a  bud  if  it  is  only  a  single  bud  with  a  bit  of  tissue  attached. 
The  greater  part  of  Grafting  and  budding  is  done  when  the 
cion  or  bud  is  nearly  or  quite  dormant.  That  is,  Grafting 
is  usually  done  late  in  winter  and  early  in  spring,  and  bud- 
ding may  be  done  then,  or  late  in  summer,  when  the  buds 
have  nearly  or  quite  matured. 

The  prime  object  of  Grafting  is  to  perpetuate  a  kind  of 
plant  which  will  not  reproduce  itself  from  seed  or  of  which 
seed  is  very  difficult  to  obtain.  Cions  or  buds  are  therefore 


116 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


taken  from  this  plant  and  set  into  whatever  kind  of  plant  is 
obtainable    and   on    which   they   will  grow.     Thus,   if  one 
wants  to  propagate  the  Baldwin  apple,  he  does  not  for 
that  purpose  sow  seeds  thereof,   but    takes  cions  or 
buds  from  the  tree  and  grafts  them  into  some  other 
apple    tree.     The    stocks   are   usually  obtained   from 
seeds.     In  the    case  of  the    apple,  young    plants  are 
raised   from    seeds    which  are  obtained  mostly  from 
cider  factories,  without  reference  to  the  variety  from 
which   they  came.     When  the  seedlings  have  grown 
The  bud  severed  to  a  certain  age,   they    are  budded  or  grafted  ;    and 
thereafter  they  bear  fruit  like   that  of  the  tree  from 
which  the  cions  were  taken. 

There  are  many  ways  in  which  the  union  between  cion 
and  stock  is  made.  Budding  may  be  first  discussed. 
It  consists  in  inserting  a  bud  underneath  the  bark  of 
the  stock,  and  the  commonest  practice  is  that  which  is 
shown  in  the  illustrations.  Budding  is  mostly  per- 
formed in  July,  August  and  early  September,  when 
the  bark  is  still  loose  or  will  peel.  Twigs  are  cut 
from  the  tree  which  it  is  desired  to  propagate,  and 
the  buds  are  cut  off  with  a  sharp  knife,  a  shield-shaped 
bit  of  bark  (with  possibly  a  little  wood)  being  left 
with  them  (see  illustration).  The  bud  is  then  shoved  into  a 
slit  made  in  the  stock,  and  it  is  held  in  place  by  tying 
with  some  soft  strand.  In  two  or  three  weeks  the  bud 
will  have  "stuck"  (that  is,  it  will  have  grown  fast  to 
the  stock),  and  the  strand  is  cut  to  prevent  its  strang- 
ling the  stock.  Ordinarily  the  bud  does  not  grow  until 
the  following  spring,  at  which  time  the  entire  stock  or 
branch  in  which  the  bud  is  inserted  is  cut  off  an  inch 
above  the  bud  ;  and  the  bud  thereby  receives  all  the 
:  bud  energy  of  the  stock.  Budding  is  the  commonest  Graf- 
5rted  ting  operation  in  nurseries.  Seeds  of  peaches  may  be 
sown  in  spring,  and  the  plants  which  result  will  be  ready 
for  budding  that  same  August.  The  following  spring,  or 


GRAFTING 


117 


^left-graft 


a  year  from  the  planting  of  the  seed,  the  stock  is  cut  off 
just  above  the  bud  (which  is  inserted  near  the  ground),  and 
in  the  fall  of  that  year  the  tree  is  ready  for  sale  ;  that 
is,  the  top  is  one  season  old  and  the  root  is  two  seasons 
old,  but  in  the  trade  it  is  known  as  a  1 -year-old 
tree.  In  apples  and  pears  the  stock  is  usually  two 
years  old  before  it  is  budded,  and  the  tree  is  not  sold 
until  the  top  has  grown  two  or  three  years.  Budding 
may  be  performed  also  in  the  spring,  in  which  case  the 
bud  will  grow  the  same  season.  Budding  is  always 
done  in  young  branches,  preferably  in  those  not  more 
than  one  year  old. 

Grafting  is  the  insertion  of  a  small  branch 
(or  cion),  usually  bearing  more  than  one  bud.  If 
Grafting  is  done  on  small  stocks,  it  is  customary  wh'P-£raft 
to  employ  the  whip -graft,  which  is  illustrated  in  the 
margin.  Both  stock  and  cion  are  cut  across  diagon- 
ally, and  a  split  made  in  each,  so  that  one  fits  into  the 
other.  The  graft  is  tied  securely  with  a  string,  and 
then,  if  it  is  above  ground,  it  is  also  waxed  carefully. 
In  larger  limbs  or  stocks,  the  common  method  is  to 
employ  the  cleft-graft.  This  consists  in  cutting  off  the 
stock,  splitting  it  and  inserting  a  wedge-shaped  cion 
in  one  or  both  sides  of  the  split,  taking  care  that 
the  cambium  layer  of  the  cion  matches  that  of 
the  stock.  The  exposed  surfaces  are  then  se- 
curely covered  with  wax.  Grafting  is  usually  performed 
early  in  the  spring,  just  before  the  buds  swell.  The 
cions  should  have  been  cut  before  this  time,  when  they 
were  perfectly  dormant.  Cions  may  be  stored  in  sand 
in  the  cellar  or  in  the  ice  house,  or  they  may  be 
buried  in  the  field.  The  object  is  to  keep  them  fresh 
and  dormant  until  they  are  wanted. 

If  it  is  desired  to  change  the  top  of   an  old  plum, 
apple  or  pear  tree  to  some  other  variety,  it  is  usually  done 
by  means  of  the  cleft-graft.    If  the  tree  is  very  young,  bud- 


a  Cactus 


118       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

ding  or  whip-grafting  may  be  employed.  On  an  old  top  the 
cions  should  begin  to  bear  when  three  to  four  years  old. 
All  the  main  limbs  should  be  grafted.  It  is  important  to 
keep  down  the  suckers  or  water- sprouts  from  around  the 
grafts,  and  part  of  the  remaining  top  should  be  cut  away 
each  year  until  the  top  is  entirely  changed  over  (which  will 
result  in  two  to  four  years). 

A  good  wax  for  covering  the  exposed  parts  is  made  as 
follows:  Eesin,  4  parts  by  weight;  beeswax,  2  parts;  tal- 
low, 1  part.  In  making  the  wax,  the  materials  are  first 
broken  up  and  melted  together.  When  thoroughly  melted 
the  liquid  is  poured  into  a  pail  or  tub  of  cold  water.  It  soon 
becomes  hard  enough  to  handle,  and  it  is  then  pulled  and 
worked  over  until  it  becomes  tough  or  "gets  a  grain,"  at 
which  stage  it  becomes  the  color  of  very  light-colored 
manilla  paper.  When  wax  is  applied  by  hand,  the  hands 
must  be  well  greased.  Hard  cake  tallow  is  the  best  ma- 
terial for  this  purpose.  In  top-grafting  large  trees,  it  is 
well  to  carry  a  supply  of  tallow  when  waxing,  by  smearing 
the  backs  of  the  hands  before  entering  the  tree. 

Grape.     One  of   the   surest   of   fruit   crops   is 

the  Grape,  a  crop  each  year  being  reasonably  certain  after 
the  third  year  from  the  time  of  setting  the  vines.  The 
Grape  does  well  on  any  soil  that  is  under  good  cultivation 
and  well  drained.  A  soil  with  considerable  clay  is  better 
under  these  circumstances  than  a  light,  sandy  loam.  The 
exposure  should  be  to  the  sun ;  and  the  place  should  admit 
of  cultivation  on  all  sides.  One-  or  2-year-old  vines  should 
be  planted,  either  in  the  fall  or  early  spring.  At  planting 
the  vine  is  cut  back  to  3  or  4  eyes,  and  the  roots  are  well 
shortened  in.  The  hole  in  which  the  plant  is  to  be  set 
should  be  large  enough  to  allow  a  full  spreading  of  the 
roots.  Fine  soil  should  be  worked  around  the  roots  and 
firmed  with  the  feet.  If  the  season  should  be  dry,  a  mulch 
of  coarse  litter  may  be  spread  around  the  vine.  If  all  the 
buds  start,  the  strongest  one  or  two  may  be  allowed  to  grow. 


GRAPE  119 

The  canes  arising  from  these  buds  should  be  staked  and  allowed 
to  grow  through  the  season ;  or  in  large  plantations  the  first- 
year  canes  may  be  allowed  to  lie  on  the  ground.  The  second 
year  one  cane  should  be  cut  back  to  the  same  number  of  eyes 
as  the  first  year.  After  growth  begins  in  the 
spring,  two  of  the  strongest  buds  should  be 
allowed  to  remain.  These  two  canes  now  aris- 
ing may  be  grown  to  a  single  stake  through  the 
second  summer,  or  they  may  be  spread  hori- 
zontally on  a  trellis.  These  are  the  canes  which 
form  the  permanent  arms  or  parts  of  the  vine. 
From  them  start  the  upright  shoots  which,  in 
succeeding  years,  are  to  bear  the  fruits.  Grape 

In  order  to  understand  the  pruning  of  Grapes,  the  opera- 
tor must  fully  grasp  this  principle :  Fruit  is  borne  on  wood  of 
the  present  season,  which  arises  from  wood  of  the  previous 
season.  To  illustrate :  A  growing  shoot,  or  cane  of  1899, 
makes  buds.  In  1900  a  shoot  arises  from  each  bud;  and 
near  the  base  of  this  shoot  the  Grapes  are  borne  (1  to  4 
clusters  on  each).  While  every  bud  on  the  1899  shoot  may 
produce  shoots  or  canes  in  1900,  only  the  strongest  of  these 
new  canes  will  bear  fruit.  The  skilled  Grape-grower  can 
tell  by  the  looks  of  his  cane  (as  he  prunes  it  in  winter) 
which  buds  will  give  rise  to  the  Grape -producing  wood  the 
following  season.  The  larger  and  stronger  buds  usually 
give  best  results;  but  if  the  cane  itself  is  very  big  and 
stout,  or  if  it  is  very  weak  and  slender,  he  does  not  expect 
good  results  from  any  of  its  buds.  A  hard,  well-ripened 
cane  the  diameter  of  a  man's  little  finger  is  the  ideal  size. 

Another  principle  to  be  mastered  is  this :  A  vine  should 
bear  only  a  limited  number  of  clusters,—  say  from  30  to  80.  A 
shoot  bears  clusters  near  its  base ;  beyond  these  clusters  the 
shoot  grows  on  into  a  long,  leafy  cane.  An  average  of  two 
clusters  may  be  reckoned  to  a  shoot.  If  the  vine  is  strong 
enough  to  bear  60  clusters,  30  good  buds  must  be  left  at  the 
pruning  (which  is  done  from  December  to  late  February). 


120  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN  -BOC-K 

The  essential  operation  of  pruning  a  Grape  vine,  there- 
fore, is  each  year  to  cut  back  a  limited  number  of  good 
canes  to  a  few  buds,  and  to  cut  off  entirely  all  the  remain- 
ing canes  or  wood  of  the  previous  season's  growth.  If  a  cane  is 
cut  back  to  2  or  3  buds,  the  stub-like  part  which  remains  is 
called  a  spur.  Present  systems,  however,  cut  each  cane 
back  to  8  or  10  buds  (on  strong  varieties),  and  3  or  4  canes 
are  left, —  all  radiating  from  near  the  head  or  trunk  of  the 
vine.  The  top  of  the  vine  does  not  grow  bigger  from  year 
to  year,  after  it  has  once  covered  the  trellis,  but  is  cut  back 
to  practically  the  same  number  of  buds  each  year.  Since 
these  buds  are  on  new  wood,  it  is  evident  that  they  are  each 
year  farther  and  farther  removed  from  the  head  of  the  vine. 
In  order  to  obviate  this  difficulty,  new  canes  are  taken  out 
each  year  or  two  from  near  the  head  of  the  vine,  and  the 
2 -year  or  3 -year- old  wood  is  cut  away. 

The  training  of  Grapes  is  a  different  matter.  A  dozen 
different  systems  of  training  may  be  practiced  on  the  same 
trellis  and  from  the  same  style  of  pruning,— for  training  is 
only  the  disposition  or  arrangement  of  the  parts. 

On  arbors,  it  is  best  to  carry  one  permanent  arm  or 
trunk  from  each  root  over  the  framework  to  the  peak.  Each 
year  the  canes  are  cut  back  to  short  spurs  (of  2  or  3  buds) 
along  the  sides  of  this  trunk. 

Grapes  are  set  from  6  to  8  feet  apart  in  rows  which  are 
8  to  10  feet  apart.  A  trellis  made  of  2  or  3  wires  is  the 
best  support.  Slat  trellises  catch  too  much  wind  and  blow 
down.  Avoid  stimulating  manures.  In  very  cold  climates, 
the  vines  may  be  taken  off  the  trellis  in  early  winter  and 
laid  on  the  ground  and  lightly  covered  with  earth.  Along 
the  boundaries  of  home  lots,  where  Grapes  are  often  planted, 
little  is  to  be  expected  in  the  way  of  fruit  because  the  ground 
is  not  well  tilled.  For  mildew  and  rot,  spray  with  Bordeaux 
mixture.  See  Spraying. 

Concord  is  the  most  cosmopolitan  variety,  but  its  quality 
is  not  the  best.  For  the  home  garden,  a  good  selection  may 


GRAPE— GRAPERY  121 

be  made  from  the  following  list:  Winchell  or  Green  Moun- 
tain, Campbell  Early,  Worden,  Concord,  Niagara,  Moore 
Diamond,  Vergennes,  Agawam,  Salem,  Wilder,  lona, 
Brighton,  Delaware. 

Grapery.  The  European  grapes  rarely  thrive 
out  of  doors  in  eastern  America.  Grape  houses  are  neces- 
sary, with  or  without  artificial  heat.  Fruit  for  home  use  may 
be  grown  very  satisfactorily  in  a  cold  Grapery  (without  ar- 
tificial heat).  A  simple  lean-to  against  the  south  side  of  a 
building  or  wall  is  cheap  and  serviceable.  When  a  separate 
building  is  desired,  an  even- span  house  running  north  and 
south  is  preferable.  There  is  no  advantage  in  having  a 
curved  roof,  except  as  a  matter  of  looks.  A  compost  of  four 
parts  rotted  turf  to  one  of  manure  is  laid  on  a  sloping  cement 
bottom  outside  the  house,  making  a  border  12  feet  wide  and 
2  feet  deep.  The  cement  may  be  replaced  with  rubble  on 
well  drained  soils,  but  it  is  a  poor  makeshift.  Every  three 
years  the  upper  6  inches  of  the  border  should  be  renewed 
with  manure.  The  border  inside  the  house  is  prepared  like- 
wise. Two-year-old  potted  vines  are  planted  about  4  feet 
apart  in  a  single  row.  Part  of  the  roots  go  through  a  crevice 
in  the  wall  to  the  outer  border  and  part  remain  inside ;  or  all 
may  go  outside  if  the  house  is  desired  for  other  purposes. 
One  strong  cane  is  trained  to  a  wire  trellis  hanging  at  least 
18  inches  from  the  glass,  and  is  cut  back  to  3  feet  the  first 
year,  6  the  second,  and  9  the  third.  Do  not  be  in  a  hurry 
to  get  a  long  cane.  Pruning  is  on  the  spur  system,  as  rec- 
ommended for  arbors  on  page  120.  The  vines  are  usually  laid 
on  the  ground  for  winter  and  covered  with  leaves  or  wrapped 
with  cloth. 

As  soon  as  the  buds  swell  in  early  spring,  tie  the  vines 
to  the  trellis  and  start  out  one  shoot  from  each  spur,  rub- 
bing off  all  others.  After  the  berries  begin  to  color,  however, 
it  is  better  to  leave  all  further  growth  to  shade  the  fruit. 
Pinch  back  each  of  these  laterals  two  joints  beyond  the 
second  bunch,  To  keep  down  red  spider  and  thrips,  the 


122  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

foliage  should  be  sprayed  with  water  every  bright  morning 
except  during  the  blooming  season.  At  least  one-third  of 
the  berries  should  be  thinned  from  each  bunch  ;  do  not  be 
afraid  of  taking  out  too  many.  Water  the  inside  border 
frequently  all  through  the  summer,  and  the  outside  occa- 
sionally if  the  season  is  dry.  Mildew  may  appear  in  July. 
The  best  preventives  are  to  syringe  faithfully,  admit  air 
freely,  and  sprinkle  sulfur  on  the  ground. 

Fruit  may  be  kept  fresh  on  the  vines  in  a  warm  ( or  arti- 
ficially heated)  Grapery  until  late  December:  in  a  coldhouse 
it  must  be  picked  before  frost.  After  the  fruit  is  off,  venti- 
late from  top  and  bottom  and  withhold  water,  so  as  to  thor- 
oughly ripen  the  wood.  Along  in  November  the  canes  are 
pruned,  covered  with  straw  or  wrapped  with  mats  and  laid 
down  till  spring.  Black  Hamburg  is  superior  to  all  other 
varieties  for  a  cold  Grapery  ;  Bowood  Muscat,  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  and  Chasselas  Musque  may  be  added  in  the  warm- 
house.  Good  vines  will  live  and  bear  almost  indefinitely. — 
S.  W.  Fletcher. 

Grasses  of  various  kinds  are  grown  for  orna- 
ment, the  most  popular  types  being  the  hardy  perennials, 
which  make  attractive  clumps  in  the  lawn  or  border.  The 
best  of  the  permanent  kinds  in  the  North  are  the  various 
sorts  of  Eulalia  (properly  Miscanthus).  When  once  estab- 
lished they  remain  for  years,  making  large  and  bold  clumps. 
The  striped  kind,  or  zebra  grass,  is  particularly  good.  These 
grasses  thrive  in  any  good  soil.  They  grow  from  4  to  7  feet 
high.  The  great  reed,  or  Arundo  Donax,  is  a  bold  subject 
and  perfectly  hardy.  In  a  rich  and  rather  moist  soil,  it 
grows  10  to  12  feet  high  when  well  establishd.  Pampas 
Grass  is  most  excellent  in  the  Middle  States  and  South. 
Some  of  the  big  native  grasses  and  sedges  make  attractive 
lawn  clumps. 

Grasses  are  also  grown  for  dry  or  everlasting  bouquets. 
For  this  purpose,  small -growing  delicate  annual  species  are 
mostly  used.  Good  types  are  species  of  agrostis,  briza, 


GRASSES— GREENHOUSE  123 

bromus,  eragrostis,  and  pennisetum.  Seeds  of  these  and 
of  others  are  sold  by  seedsmen.  With  ordinary  treatment, 
they  thrive  in  any  garden  soil. 

For  notes  on  sod -making,  see  Lawn. 

Greenhouse.  In  America  the  word  Greenhouse 
has  come  to  be  applied  to  all  kinds  of  glass-houses  in  which 
plants  are  grown.  Originally  the  word  was  applied  to  those 
houses  in  which  plants  are  merely  preserved  or  kept  green 
during  the  winter.  Other  types  of  glass-houses  are  the  con- 
servatory, in  which  plants  are  displayed  ;  stove  or  hothouse, 
in  which  plants  are  grown  in  a  high  temperature;  the  prop- 
agating pit,  in  which  the  multiplication  of  plants  is  carried 
forward  ;  and  the  houses  which  have  various  temperatures, 
as  cold,  cool  and  intermediate.  The  principles  which  under- 
lie the  construction  and  management  of  glass-houses  are  too 
extensive  to  be  discussed  here.  The  reader  should  refer  to 
special  books  on  the  topic.  For  the  general  subject,  Taft's 
"Greenhouse  Construction"  and  "Greenhouse  Management" 
are  excellent.  For  particular  applications  to  floriculture, 
Hunt's  "How  to  Grow  Cut-flowers"  is  a  standard  work. 
For  applications  to  the  forcing  of  vegetable  crops,  Bailey's 
"Forcing-Book"  may  perhaps  be  consulted. 

The  smaller  the  glass-house  the  more  difficult  it  is  to 
manage,  because  it  is  likely  to  be  more  variable  in  tempera- 
ture, moisture  and  other  conditions.  This  is  particularly 
true  if  the  house  is  a  small  lean-to  against  the  south  side  of 
a  dwelling  house,  for  it  becomes  very  hot  at  midday  and 
comparatively  cold  at  night.  In  order  to  moderate  the  heat 
in  these  little  houses,  it  is  ordinarily  advisable  to  use  ground 
glass  for  the  roof  or  to  whitewash  it.  The  house  conserva- 
tory may  be  heated  by  a  coal  stove,  but  the  best  results  are 
rarely  to  be  attained  in  this  case.  A  stove  is  likely  to  leak 
gas,  and  the  temperature  is  more  or  less  uneven.  The  best 
results  are  to  be  attained  when  the  conservatory  is  heated 
by  steam  or  hot  water,  piped  in  the  modern  fashion  with 
wrought  iron  pipes,  which  go  together  with  threads.  If  the 


124       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

conservatory  is  heated  from  the  heater  which  supplies  the 
dwelling  house,  it  should  have  an  extra  amount  of  pipe  ; 
otherwise  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  dwelling  house 
too  hot  for  comfort  in  order  to  maintain  the  conservatory  at 
its  proper  temperature.  It  is  always  best,  when  practicable, 
to  heat  the  conservatory  with  a  separate  apparatus.  There 
are  various  small  hot  water  and  steam  heaters,  the  size  of  coal 
stoves,  which  are  excellent  for  the  purpose.  For  a  small 
conservatory,  hot  water  is  usually  preferable  to  steam,  since 
it  is  less  likely  to  fluctuate.  For  large  establishments,  how- 
ever, the  steam  is  usually  the  better.  For  further  discus- 
sions of  related  subjects,  see  Hotbed,  Window  Garden, 
Potting  and  Watering. 

Grevillea.      A  very  graceful  greenhouse  plant, 

suitable  for  house  culture.  The  plants  grow  freely  from 
seed,  and  until  they  become  too  large  are  as  decorative  as 
ferns.  Grevilleas  are  really  trees,  and  are  valuable  in 
greenhouses  and  rooms  only  in  their  young  state.  They 
withstand  much  abuse.  They  are  now  very  popular  as  jar- 
diniere subjects.  Seeds  sown  in  spring  will  give  handsome 
plants  by  the  next  winter. 

Gypsophila.       BABY'S     BREATH.        Oypsophila 

muralisis  one  of  the  dainty  little  plants  called  Baby's  Breath. 
It  is  a  low- growing  annual  forming  compact  mounds  of  green, 
thickly  covered  with  little  pink  flowers.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  attractive  border  plants  in  cultivation.  It  is  also  a 
charming  pot-plant.  G.  paniculata  is  a  hardy  perennial  hav- 
ing panicles  of  bluish  white  flowers.  This  is  very  graceful,  and 
the  flowers  are  fine  for  cutting  and  for  use  with  sweet  pea 
bouquets  or  with  other  choice  flowers.  The  panicles  are  so 
lasting  that  they  may  be  used  in  winter  bouquets.  The  an- 
nuals may  be  planted  1  foot  apart;  the  perennials  3  feet. 
Both  are  readily  grown  from  seed,  and  bloom  the  first  year. 

Hardy.     A   relative    terra,    used    to    denote    a 
plant  which  endures  the  climate  (particularly  the  winter 


HARDY—  HEDGES  125 

climate)  of  a  given  place.  Half-hardy  plants  are  those 
which  withstand  some  frost  or  uncongenial  conditions,  but 
will  not  endure  the  severity  of  the  climate.  Tender  plants 
are  those  which  are  injured  by  light  frosts. 

Hedges.  Hedges  are  much  less  used  in  this 
country  than  in  Europe,  and  for  several  reasons.  Our 
climate  is  dry,  and  most  Hedges  do  not  thrive  so  well  here  as 
there;  labor  is  high-priced,  and  the  trimming  is  therefore 
likely  to  be  neglected;  our  farms  are  so  large  that  much 
fencing  is  required ;  timber  and  wire  are  cheaper  than  live 
Hedges.  However,  they  are  used  with  good  effects  about 
the  home  grounds.  In  order  to  secure  a  good  Hedge,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  thoroughly  well-prepared,  deep  soil,  to 
set  the  plants  close,  and  to  shear  them  at  least  twice  every 
year.  For  evergreen  Hedges  the  most  serviceable  plant  in 
general  is  the  arborvitse.  The  plants  may  be  set  at  dis- 
tances of  1  to  2%  feet  apart.  For  choice  Hedges  about  the 
grounds,  particularly  outside  the  northern  states,  some  of 
the  retinosporas  are  very  useful.  One  of  the  most  satis- 
factory of  all  coniferous  plants  for  Hedges  is  the  common 
hemlock,  which  stands  shearing  well  and  makes  a  very  soft 
and  pleasing  mass.  The  plants  may  be  set  from  1  to  3  feet 
apart.  Other  plants  which  hold  their  leaves  and  are  good 
for  Hedges  are  the  common  box  and  the  privets.  Box 
Hedges  are  the  best  for  very  low  borders  about  walks  and 
flower  beds.  The  dwarf  variety  can  be  kept  down  to  a 
height  of  6  inches  to  a  foot  for  any  number  of  years.  The 
larger- growing  varieties  make  excellent  Hedges  3,  4  and  5 
feet  high.  The  ordinary  privet  or  prim  holds  its  leaves  well 
into  winter  in  the  North.  The  so-called  Californian  privet 
holds  its  leaves  rather  longer  and  stands  better  along  the 
seashore.  In  the  southern  states,  nothing  is  better  than 
Citrus  trifoliata. 

For  Hedges  of  deciduous  plants,  the  most  common  species 
are  the  buckthorn,  the  European  thorn  apple  or  cratsegus, 
osage  orange,  and  various  kinds  of  roses. 


126  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Hedges  should  be  trimmed  the  year  after  they  are  set, 
although  they  should  not  be  trimmed  very  closely  until  they 
reach  the  desired  or  permanent  height.  Thereafter  they 
should  be  sheared  into  the  desired  form  in  spring  or  fall. 
If  the  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  for  a  year  or  two  without 
trimming,  they  lose  their  lower  leaves  and  become  open  and 
straggly.  Osage  orange  and  some  other  plants  are  plashed— 
that  is,  the  plants  are  set  at  an  angle  rather  than  perpen- 
dicularly, and  they  are  wired  together  in  such  a  way  that 
they  make  an  impenetrable  barrier  just  above  the  surface  of 
the  ground. 

Helianthus.     See  Sunflower. 

Helichrysum.  These  are  perhaps  the  most 
popular  of  the  Everlastings  (which  see),  having  Targe  flowers 
of  several  colors.  They  grow  readily  from  seed,  blooming 
from  July  to  October.  Height  10  inches  to  2  feet.  Should 
be  planted  or  thinned  to  stand  18  inches  apart. 

Heliotrope.  A  universal  favorite  house  or 
border  plant,  growing  readily  from  cuttings  or  seeds,  and 
producing  quantities  of  fragrant  violet,  purple  or  white 
flowers.  One  of  the  best  methods  of  cultivation  is  to  set  a 
strong  plant  in  the  border  and  peg  the  new  growths  to  the 
ground,  where  they  will  root  and  form  a  perfect  mat,  flower- 
ing profusely  during  the  fall  months  until  frost.  They 
will  endure  the  temperature  of  a  living  room  well  if  the 
room  is  not  too  dry.  Red  spider  is  a  natural  enemy  of  the 
Heliotrope,  and  when  once  it  obtains  a  foothold  is  a  very 
difficult  pest  to  manage,  but  frequent  syringing  with  water 
will  keep  it  in  check.  A  light,  rich  soil  and  an  abundance 
of  heat  are  their  requirements.  Height  1  to  3  feet.  Propa- 
gated by  cuttings  or  layers. 

Hellebore  (White  Hellebore)  is  often  used  for 

the  killing  of  currant-worms  and  other  insects  (see  Currant}. 
It  is  not  so  poisonous  as  the  arsenites,  and  therefore  is  to  be 
preferred  when  it  is  necessary  to  apply  a  poison  to  nearly 


HELLEBORE — HIBISCUS  127 

ripe  fruit.  It  is  usually  applied  in  a  spray  with  water,  at 
the  rate  of  %  ounce  to  the  gallon.  It  is  harmless  to  foliage. 

Helleborus,  or  CHRISTMAS  ROSE,  may  be  had 

in  flower  at  the  holidays  if  grown  in  a  frame  and  pro- 
tected. The  usual  time  for  it  to  flower  in  the  open  border  is 
in  March  or  early  April.  It  will  continue  to  bloom  for  many 
years  if  grown  in  a  shady  place.  Roots  may  be  divided  as 
an  increase  is  wanted.  It  may  also  be  grown  from  seeds; 
and  seedlings  may  be  expected  to  bloom  a  year  from  the 
spring  in  which  they  are  sown.  Height  6  to  10  inches. 

Hemerocallis,    or    YELLOW    DAY    LILY.      The 

advice  given  under  Funkia  will  apply  to  this. 

Herbs  are  plants  which  die  to  the  ground  in 
winter.  They  may  be  annual,  biennial,  or  perennial.  For 
a  list  of  annual  Herbs  suitable  for  the  flower  garden,  see 
the  articles  on  Annuals  and  Bedding.  A  border  or  free  mass 
of  perennial  Herbs  is  one  of  the  charms  of  any  place.  It  is 
informal,  easy  of  care,  and  self-sustaining.  The  large  part 
of  the  mass  should  be  composed  of  common  and  hardy 
things  —  wild  or  from  gardens  —  and  incidental  features 
may  be  made  of  the  choicer  and  rarer  exotics.  In  most 
cases,  plants  look  better  when  judiciously  mixed  than  when 
planted  one  kind  in  a  bed.  See  Border. 

Hibiscus.  Annuals  and  perennials,  some  of 
them  shrubs,  with  showy,  hollyhock- like  flowers.  The  an- 
nual Hibiscuses  are  very  satisfactory.  They  grow  quickly 
and  flower  freely.  The  flowers  are  usually  white  or  yel- 
low, of  large  size,  and  appear  from  July  on.  The  herba- 
ceous perennial  kinds  are  amongst  the  best  of  hardy  border 
plants,  blooming  in  late  summer  and  fall.  The  commonest 
of  these  is  Hibiscus  Moscheutos.  Give  rich,  moist  soil. 

The  greenhouse  species  are  old  favorites.  They  may  be 
used  in  outdoor  bedding  through  the  summer,  lifted  in  the 
fall  and  cut  back.  Keep  rather  dry  and  dormant  during 
winter.  Propagated  by  cuttings, 


128  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Hippeastrum.     Consult  Amaryllis. 

Hoes  should  be  of  several  patterns  if  the 
most  efficient  work  is  to  be  done  in  the  garden.  The 
ordinary  Hoe  is  adapted  only  to  the  rougher  and  coarser 
Hoe-work,  such  as  digging  and  fitting  the  ground.  For 
much  of  the  subsequent  tillage,  some  of  the  narrow- 
blade  and  pointed  Hoes  are  excellent.  For  cutting 
off  weeds,  the  push  Hoe  or  scarifier  is  excellent. 

Hollyhock.  These  old  garden  favorites 
™°n  have  been  neglected  of  late  years,  primarily 
because  the  Hollyhock  rust  has  been  so  prev- 
alent, destroying  the  plants  or  making  the  mun- 
sightly.  The  double  varieties  seem  to  suffer  the  . 
most ;  and  for  that  reason,  and  from  the  fact  that 
the  less  formal  type  is  in  favor,  the  single  varieties  are  now 
the  most  generally  grown.  Their  culture  is  very  simple.  The 
seed  is  usually  sown  in  July  or  August,  and  the  plants  set 
where  wanted  the  following  spring.  They  will  bloom  the 
same  year  in  which  they  are  transplanted  —  the  year  follow- 
ing the  seed-sowing.  New  plants  should  be  set  every  two 
years,  as  the  old  crowns  are  apt  to  rot  or  die  after  the  first 
flowering.  For  rust,  spray  early  with  Bordeaux 
mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper. 

Hop,  Ornamental.     Humulus  Japon- 

icus,  or  the  annual  HOP,  is  one  of  the  best 
rapid -growing  screen  vines  in  cultivation.  It 
makes  a  dense  canopy  of  attractive  foliage.  The 
leaves  are  finely  cut,  and  in  one  variety  varie- 
gated with  white.  This  variegated  variety  is  a 
fine  vine  for  a  porch  or  front  screen,  always 
attracting  attention  to  its  markings.  This  Hop 
is  propagated  by  seed  sown  in  boxes  in  March. 
When  once  established,  it  will  seed  itself  and 
start  as  soon  as  the  soil  becomes  warm.  Set 
Hollyhocks  plants  4  to  8  feet  apart.  Height  8  to  20  feet. 


HORSERADISH— HOTBED  129 

Horseradish.  As  a  kitchen  garden  vegetable, 
this  is  usually  planted  in  some  out-of-the-way  spot  and  a 
piece  of  the  root  dug  as  often  as  needed,  the  fragments  of 
roots  being  left  in  the  soil  to  grow  for  further  use.  This 
method  results  in  having  nothing  but  tough,  stringy  roots, 
very  unlike  the  product  of  a  properly  planted  and  well 
cared  for  bed.  The  best  roots  are  those  planted  in  the 
spring  at  the  time  of  setting  early  cabbage,  and  dug  as  late 
the  same  fall  as  the  weather  will  permit.  It  becomes, 
therefore,  an  annual  crop.  The  roots  for  planting  are 
small  pieces,  from  4  to  6  inches  long,  obtained  when  trim- 
ming the  roots  dug  in  the  fall.  These  pieces  may  be  packed 
in  sand  and  stored  until  wanted  the  following  spring.  In 
planting,  the  roots  should  be  set  with  the  upper  end  3  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  using  a  dibber  or  sharp - 
pointed  stick  in  making  the  holes.  The  crop  maybe  planted 
between  rows  of  early-sown  beets,  lettuce  or  other  crop, 
and  given  full  possession  of  the  ground  when  these  crops  are 
harvested.  Where  the  ground  is  inclined  to  be  stiff  or  the 
subsoil  is  near  the  surface,  the  roots  may  be  set  in  a  slant- 
ing position.  In  fact,  many  gardeners  practice  this  method 
of  planting,  thinking  that  the  roots  make  a  better  growth 
and  are  more  uniform  in  size. 

Hotbed.  A  Hotbed  is  a  frame  or  box  which 
has  artificial  heat  and  a  transparent  covering  and  in  which 
plants  are  grown.  It  differs  from  a  coldframe  (which  see) 
iu  the  fact  that  it  has  artificial  bottom  heat.  This  bottom 
heat  is  usually  supplied  by  fermenting  organic  matter, 
chiefly  horse  manure,  but  hot  air,  hot  water  or  steam  con- 
veyed in  pipes,  may  be  employed.  It  is  covered  with  sash 
of  which  the  normal  or  standard  size  is  3  feet  wide  and  6 
feet  long.  These  sashes  are  laid  crosswise  the  box  or  frame. 
The  standard  size  of  frame  is  6  feet  wide  and  12  feet  long. 
A  "frame,"  therefore,  accommodates  four  sashes.  However, 
the  frame  may  be  of  any  length  desired.  This  frame  is 
ordinarily  made  of  boards,  and  the  back  of  it  is  3  or  4 


130  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

inches  higher  than  the  front,  so  that  the  sashes  slope  to 
the  sun.  It  is  customary  to  have  a  space  of  6  to  10  inches 
between  the  earth  and  the  sash  on  the  lower  or  front  side. 
The  manure  which  is  used  to  heat  the  bed 
may  be  placed  on  top  of  the  ground  and  the 
frame  set  on  the  pile,  or  it  may  be  placed 
in  a  pit.  tf  the  land  is  warm  and  well  drained, 
it  is  ordinarily  better  to  have  a  pit  from  1  to 
2  feet  deep  and  to  set  the  frame  over  it.  This 
is  especially  the  case  if  it  is  desired  to  have  a  permanent 
Hotbed  yard.  The  place  in  which  the  frames  are  set  should 
be  protected  from  the  cold  and  prevailing  winds  by  a  rising 
slope,  a  high  board  fence,  a  building,  hedge,  or  other  ob- 
struction. If  the  frame  yard  is  near  the  main  buildings, 
it  will  be  much  more  accessible  in  rainy  or  snowy  times, 
and  the  plants  are  likely  to  have  better  care.  Water  should 
also  be  handy. 

The  time  of  starting  a  Hotbed  will  depend  upon  the 
kinds  of  plants  to  be  grown,  the  amount  of  time  which  one 
wishes  to  gain,  and  something,  also,  on  the  quality  of  the 
manure.  The  hardier  the  plant  the  earlier  it  can  be  started. 
In  the  latitude  of  New  York,  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of 
March  is  the  usual  time  for  starting  a  Hotbed.  In  this  bed  are 
sown  seeds  of  early  flowers  and  such  vegetables  as  cabbage, 
cauliflower,  tomato,  etc.  In  the  raising  of  any  plants  in  the 
Hotbed,  it  is  very  essential  that  they  do  not  become  "  drawn  " 
or  "leggy."  In  order  to  prevent  this,  they  must  be  given 
plenty  of  room,  thorough  ventilation  on  all  pleasant  days, 
and  not  too  great  heat.  It  is  well  to  transplant  them  once 
or  twice  before  they  are  finally  set  in  the  field,  especially  if 
they  are  started,  in  New  York,  as  early  as  the  first  or  middle 
of  March.  When  they  are  transplanted,  they  can  be  set  in 
another  Hotbed  or  in  a  coldframe ;  but  it  is  important  that 
the  succeeding  frames  ir  which  they  are  set  should  not  be 
very  much  colder  than  the  one  in  which  they  grew,  else  they 
may  become  stunted.  It  is  well,  however,  to  transplant 


HOTBED  131 

them  into  a  gradually  cooler  and  freer  atmosphere  in  order 
to  harden  them  off,  so  that  they  may  go  into  the  open  ground 
without  danger.  On  every  pleasant  day,  raise  the  sash  at 
the  upper  end  1  or  2  inches,  or  if  the  sun  shines  brightly 
and  the  wind  does  not  blow,  give  even  more  air  ;  and  even- 
tually strip  off  the  sashes  entirely.  It  is  very  important  that 
the  plants  are  not  kept  too  close  and  grown  too  soft.  It  is 
usually  advisable  to  sow  cabbage,  lettuce  and  other  hardy 
plants  in  different  frames  from  tomatoes  and  other  tender 
things,  in  order  that  the  proper  requirements  may  be  given 
to  each.  At  night  the  Hotbeds  (at  least  early  in  the  season) 
will  need  more  protection  than  the  glass  sash.  It  was  for- 
merly the  custom  to  use  thick  rye -straw  mats  to  cover  Hot- 
beds, but  it  is  now  a  common  practice  to  use  the  straw 
matting  which  can  be  bought  of  carpet  dealers.  This 
is  rolled  out  on  the  sashes  at  night  in  one  or  two  thick- 
nesses ;  and  if  the  weather  is  sharp,  board  shutters,  the 
size  of  the  sash,  may  be  laid  on  top.  As  the  manure  heat 
begins  to  fail  give  more  and  more  air,  so  that  the  plants 
may  be  able  to  shift  for  themselves  when  the  bottom  heat  is 
finally  exhausted. 

Fresh  horse  manure  is  the  material  which  is  commonly 
used  for  the  heating  of  Hotbeds.  If  it  can  be  secured  from 
livery  stables,  so  that  it  is  all  of  nearly  or  quite  the  same  age, 
better  results  may  be  expected.  Manure  from  highly  fed 
horses  usually  heats  better  than  that  from  horses  which  re- 
ceive little  grain,  or  in  which  there  is  very  much  litter.  Put 
the  manure  in  a  pile,  preferably  under  cover,  and  as  soon  as 
it  shows  signs  of  heating,  fork  it  over  in  order  to  mix  the 
entire  mass  and  to  cause  it  to  heat  evenly.  When  it  is 
steaming  throughout  the  whole  mass,  it  may  be  put  in  the 
bed.  Assuming  that  the  Hotbed  has  a  pit  beneath  it,  it  is 
well  to  put  in  2  or  3  inches  of  coarse  litter  in  order  to  keep 
the  manure  off  the  cold  ground.  The  manure  is  then  put  in 
and  tramped  down,  in  layers  of  4  to  6  inches  each.  If  the 
manure  is  of  the  right  consistency,  it  will  pack  without  be- 


132  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

coming  dense  and  soggy;  that  is,  it  will  spring  a  little  be- 
neath the  feet.  If  it  has  too  much  litter,  it  will  fluff  up 
under  the  feet  and  not  pack  well.  From  18  to  24  or  even  30 
inches  of  manure  is  placed  in  the  pit.  On  top,  an  inch  of 
dry  straw  or  light  leaf-mold  may  be  placed  to  serve  as  a  dis- 
tributor of  the  heat  to  the  earth  above.  From  3  to  4  inches 
of  rich,  light  earth  is  placed  upon  this,  in  which  to  sow  the 
seed.  The  manure  will  ordinarily  heat  violently  for  a  few 
days.  Place  a  soil  thermometer  in  it,  and  as  soon  as  the 
temperature  begins  to  fall  below  90°  the  seeds  of  tomatoes 
and  egg-plants  may  be  sown;  and  when  it  begins  to  fall  be- 
low 80,°  the  seeds  of  cabbages,  lettuce  and  cauliflower  may 
be  sown.  If  the  frame  is  not  placed  over  a  pit  and  the 
manure  is  put  on  top  of  the  ground,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
allow  the  body  of  manure  to  project  1  or  2  feet  in  all  direc- 
tions in  order  to  prevent  the  edges  of  the  bed  from  freez- 
ing. 

In  starting  plants  in  a  Hotbed,  one  must  not  expect  to 
gain  as  much  time  in  the  crop  as  he  gains  in  the  starting  of 
the  seeds:  that  is,  if  he  starts  the  seeds  two  months  ahead 
of  the  normal  season,  he  will  not  gain  two  months  in  the 
ripening  of  the  crop.  Ordinarily,  he  cannot  expect  to  gain 
much  more  than  one -half  the  time,  particularly  if  the  plants 
are  transplanted  to  the  field  from  the  Hotbed. 

Some  plants  may  be  grown  to  maturity  in  the  Hot- 
bed, particularly  lettuce  and  radishes.  After  Hotbeds 
have  been  emptied  of  their  plants,  the  sashes  may  be 
stored  away,  and  the  frames,  with  their  spent  manure, 
used  for  the  growing  of  an  early  summer  crop  of  mel- 
ons or  cucumbers. 

House  Plants.  See  Window -Garden. 
Hyacinth  Hyacinth  Bean  (DoUchos  Ldbldb) .  A  very 
bean  rapid -growing  twiner,  bearing  fragrant  flowers  of  pur- 
ple or  white.  It  is  a  fine  screen  plant.  Plant  seeds  when  the 
ground  is  warm  where  the  plants  are  to  grow ;  or  they  may 
be  started  early  in  pots.  Height  10  feet. 


HYACINTH  133 

Hyacinths  are  most  popular  winter-  or  spring  - 
flowering  bulbs.  Hyacinths  are  hardy,  but  they  are  often 
used  as  window  or  greenhouse  plants.  They  are  easy  to 
grow  and  very  satisfactory.  For  winter  flowering  the  bulbs 
should  be  procured  early  in  the  fall,  potted  in  October  in  soil 
composed  of  loam,  leaf-mold  and  sand.  If  ordinary  flower 
pots  are  used,  put  in  the  bottom  a  few  pieces  of  broken  pots, 
charcoal  or  small  stones  for  drainage ;  then  fill  the  pot  with 
dirt,  so  that  when  the  bulb  is  planted  the  top  will  be  on  a 
level  with  the  rim  of  the  pot.  Fill  in  around  the  bulb  with 
soil,  leaving  just  the  tip  of  the  bulb  showing.  These  pots  of 
bulbs  should  be  placed  in  a  cold  pit,  cellar  or  on  the  shady 
side  of  a  building.  In  all  cases,  plunge  the  pot  in  some  cool  ma- 
terial (as  cinders).  Before  the  weather  becomes  cold  enough 
to  freeze  a  crust  on  the  ground,  the  pots  should  have  a  protec- 
tion of  straw  or  leaves  to  keep  the  bulbs  from  severe  freez- 
ing. In  from  six  to  eight  weeks  the  bulbs  should  have  made 
roots  enough  to  grow  the  plant,  and  the  pots  may  be 
placed  in  a  cool  room  for  a  short  time.  When  the  plants  have 
started  into  growth,  they  may  be  placed  in  a  warmer  situa- 
tion. Watering  should  be  carefully  attended  to  from  this 
time,  and  when  the  plant  is  in  bloom  the  pot  may  be  set  in  a 
saucer  or  other  shallow  dish  containing  water.  After  flower- 
ing, the  bulbs  may  be  ripened  by  gradually  witholding  water 
until  the  leaves  die.  They  may  then  be  planted  out  in  the 
border,  where  they  will  bloom  each  spring  for  a  number  of 
years,  but  will  never  prove  satisfactory  for  forcing  again. 
The  open  ground  culture  of  Hyacinths  is  the  same  as  for 
tulips,  which  see.  See  Bulbs. 

Water  Culture  of  Hyacinths. — The  Hyacinth  is  the  most 
popular  of  the  Dutch  bulbs  for  growing  in  vases.  The  Nar- 
cissus may  be  grown  in  water,  and  do  just  as  well,  but  it  is 
not  as  pretty  in  glasses  as  the  Hyacinth.  Glasses  for  Hya- 
cinths may  be  had  of  florists  who  deal  in  supplies,  and  in 
various  shapes  and  colors.  The  usual  form  is  tall  and  nar- 
row, with  a  cup-like  mouth  to  receive  the  bulb.  They  are 


134  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

filled  with  water,  so  that  it  will  just  reach  the  base  of  the 
bulb  when  it  has  been  placed  in  position  in  the  cup  above. 
The  vessels  of  dark-colored  glass  are  preferable  to  those  of 
clear  glass,  as  roots  prefer  darkness.  When  the  glasses,  or 
bowls  as  above  mentioned,  have  been  arranged,  they  are  set 
away  in  a  cool,  dark  place  to  form  roots  like  potted  bulbs. 
Results  are  usually  secured  earlier  in  water  than  in  soil.  To 
keep  the  water  sweet,  a  few  lumps  of  charcoal  may  be  put 
in  the  glass.  As  the  water  evaporates,  add  fresh;  add 
enough  so  that  it  runs  over,  and  thereby  renews  that  in  the 
glass.  Do  not  disturb  the  roots  by  taking  out  the  bulb. 

Hydrangea.  One  of  the  commonest  lawn 
shrubs  is  Hydrangea  paniculata.  The  commonest  fault  in 
growing  it  is  scattering  the  plants  over  the  lawn,  where 
they  suffer  in  the  competition  with  grass  roots,  and  do  not 
show  off  to  advantage.  It  is  far  better  to  mass  them  in 
front  of  taller  things.  The  Hydrangea  blooms  on  wood  of 
the  season ;  therefore  it  should  be  pruned  after  bloom  —  in 
winter  or  early  spring  (see  Pruning}.  Cut  back  heavily,  in 
order  to  secure  the  strong  new  shoots  upon  which  the 
flowers  are  borne. 

Hyssop.     See  Sweet  Herbs. 

Ice  Plant,  or  MESEMBRYANTHEMUM.    Fine  little 

plants  for  rockwork  or  edging.  The  majority  of  the  spe- 
cies are  greenhouse  and  window  plants,  but  a  few  can  be 
recommended  for  outdoor  planting.  A  very  sunny  location, 
with  gravelly  soil,  will  give  the  best  results,  either  in  the 
open  or  in  the  house.  Easily  propagated  by  pieces  of  the 
plant  laid  on  moist  sand  in  a  somewhat  sunny  place.  The 
common  Ice  Plant  of  window- gardens  is  readily  grown  from 
seeds  or  slips.  It  is  prized  for  its  glandular-glistening  thick 
foliage  (whence  the  common  name).  The  little  flowers, 
which  open  in  sunshine,  are  also  interesting. 

Impatiens  Sultani  is  a  generally  known  con- 
servatory plant,  making  a  charming  pot  subject  for  warm 


IMPATIENS— INSECTS  135 

greenhouse  or  a  room.  It  is  readily  propagated  from  seed  or 
cuttings,  seed  being  preferable.  Flowers  bright  pink  -  red. 
Of  easy  culture  in  a  fairly  moist  atmosphere.  Height  about 
18  inches. 

Insects.     For    horticultural    purposes,  Insects 

might  be  grouped  into  three  general  classes :  borers,  or  those 
which  live  inside  the  plant  tissue  ;  chew- 
ing Insects  which  live  on  the  outside  of 
the  plant;  and  the  sucking  Insects. 

As  a  general    statement,    it   may   be 
said  that  the  digging  out  of  borers  is  the 
only   complete    remedy.     Sometimes    an 
application  of  something  to  the  body  of 
the  tree  may  keep  them  out,  but  it  is  al-        Moth  of  one  of  the  borers 
ways  uncertain  ;    and  it  usually  involves  more  work  than  to 
dig  them  out.    All  trees  which  are  subject  to  borers  (espe- 
cially apples,  peaches   and   pears)  should   be   examined  at 
least  twice  every  year.     See  Borers. 

The  general  run  of  chewing  or  biting  Insects  may  be 
killed  by  the  arsenical  poisons.  Such  Insects  are  the  com- 
mon types  of  worms  and  beetles  which  feed  on  foliage.  The 
leading  poison  which  is  now  used  for  this  purpose  is  Paris 
green  (which  see).  Hellebore  and  pyrethrum  are  useful 
when  it  is  not  advisable  to  use  arsenical 
poisons. 

The  sucking  Insects  include  all  the  kinds 
of  plant  lice,  the  squash  bug  and  all  the 
scale  Insects.  These  are  dispatched  by 
some  material  which  kills  by  external  appli- 
cation, especially  material  which  has  kero- 
sene or  petroleum  in  it.  The  common  ma- 
A  beetle  borer  terial  heretofore  used  for  this  purpose  is 

kerosene  and  soap  emulsion ;  but  it  is  now  believed  that  the 
emulsion  of  kerosene  and  water  is  fully  as  efficient,  and  since 
machines  have  been  perfected  for  automatically  mixing  it,  it 
is  a  much  more  practicable  remedy.  See  Kerosene  Emulsion. 


136  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

In  the  fighting  of  all  Insects,  success  depends  upon  tak- 
ing them  in  time.     If  something  is  known  of  the  life  history 
of  the  Insect,  very  much  will  be  gained,  for  the  operator 
may   be    on    hand    as    soon  as   the   Insect   is 
expected  to  appear. 

Insects  on  House  Plants. — The  most  trouble  - 

Weevil -a  chewing  insect  gomeorcommon   Insectg    with    which    the    ftma. 

teur  is  likely  to  meet  in  the  window-garden  or  conserva- 
tory are  the  red  spider,  mite,  mealy  bug,  aphis,  and  scale. 

The  red  spider  is  a  very  minute  Insect  with  a  reddish 
body.  Its  presence  may  be  suspected  whenever  plants  are 
growing  in  a  warm  and  dry  place.  Usually  it  first  appears 
on  the  under  side  of  leaves,  but  it  multiplies  rapidly,  and 
will  soon  not  be  so  choice  of  position.  It  sucks  the  juices  of 
the  leaves,  and  they  soon  indicate  the  injury  by  a  dull  appear- 
ance, and  also,  in  many  cases,  by  small  whitish  or  paler 
areas  on  the  upper  surfaces.  The  mite  is  of  similar  habits 
and  size,  but  is  of  a  pale  color,  with  black  on  its  back. 
It  appears  under  the  same  conditions  as  the  red  spider. 
These  pests  are  small,  but  are  very  serious  if  allowed 
to  multiply  unchecked.  They  should  be  looked  after  as 
soon  as  their  presence  is  detected. 

The  remedy  is  to  arrange  for  keeping  the  air  about  the 
plants  more  moist,  and  giving  drenchings  of  the  foli- 
age with  clear  or  soapy  water.  The  latter  is  most  effective. 
The  soap  used  may  be  simply  the  common  washing  soap,  or 
that  sold  at  drug  stores  known  as  whale-oil  soap.  In  fight- 
ing them,  care  must  be  used  not  to  keep  the  soil  soaked 
with  water,  or  it  will  check  the  plants  in  vigor  and  only  add 
to  the  strength  of  the  enemy.  Even  florists  sometimes  get 
into  just  such  a  predicament.  Flagging  and  extreme  varia- 
tions in  dryness  and  humidity  of  the  air,  checking  the  vigor 
of  plants,  favor  the  appearance  and  presence  of  the  red 
spider  quite  as  much  as  extreme  and  continued  dryness  of 
the  air. 

The  aphids   or    plant   lice  are  readily  discernable  when 


INSECTS  137 

they  appear  on  plants,  as  they  are  sure  to  do  under  nearly  all 
conditions.  They  are  small,  have  elongated,  succulent  bodies, 
move  about  slowly  and  awkwardly,  on  rather  long,  hairlike 
legs,  and  are  most  commonly  of  a  pale  green  color,  though 
often  brown  or  reddish,  and  sometimes  of  other  shades. 
Fumigation  of  the  plants  in  a  closed  box  with  burning 
tobacco  stems  will  kill  them.  Latterly  florists  evaporate  a 
liquid  extract  of  tobacco  (which  is  sold  by  dealers  in 
florists'  supplies)  by  dropping  a  hot  iron  into  a  pan  of  it.  A 
tea  made  by  soaking  tobacco  stems  in  water  for  a  few  hours, 
and  applied  with  a  syringe,  is  effective,  and  a  safe  rem- 
edy in  inexperienced  hands.  A  tablespoonful  of  tobacco 
sheep-dip,  or  extract  of  tobacco,  to  a  couple  of  gallons  of 
water,  also  makes  an  effective  syringing  or  dipping  solution. 
As  mentioned  above,  we  should  use  care,  especially  in  the 
winter  time,  when  the  soil  often  dries  out  slowly,  to  avoid 
soaking  it  when  already  wet  or  sufficiently  moist. 

Mealy  bug  has  a  small,  flat,  tortoise -shaped  body, 
from  about  one -sixteenth  to  one -eighth  of  an  inch  long. 
The  Insects  collect  in  masses  in  the  axils  of  the 
leaves.  They  are  covered  with  a  white  mealy  or 
cottony  substance,  and  are  readily  recognized, 
although  persons  unfamiliar  with  their  appearance 
have  sometimes  mistaken  them  for  bits  of  down 
or  cotton  lodged  upon  the  foliage  or  in  the  axils 
of  the  leaves.  The  young  are  small,  and  likely 
to  escape  observation  unless  one  looks  closely. 
They  are  flat,  of  a  creamy  or  pinkish  tint,  and  liej 
close  to  the  surface  of  the  leaves,  especially  on  the 
under  surface.  Coleus  and  bouvardias  are  among 
the  plants  upon  which  mealy  bugs  are  most  often 

j?  j        r\      '  ii-          -i  c  j-v.     •  •  One  of  the    kind 

found.    Owing  to  the  oily  nature  of  their  covering,  which  sucks  its  food 
it  is  difficult  to  wet  their  bodies  with  any  ordinary  liquid  that 
may  be  applied  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  them.  Fir-tree 
oil  is  one  of  the  most  effective  remedies  for  them.  This  liquid 
is  rather  expensive,  but  for  a  small  collection  a  gallon  can  will 


138       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

last  for  a  long  time.     It  is  also  effective  against  other  In- 
sects.    For  mealy  bugs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  oil  to  one 
pint  of  water  will  make  an  effective  dipping  or  spraying  so- 
lution.    Soft  or  rain-water  should  be  used,  and  tin,  wooden, 
or  earthenware  vessels.     Galvanized  iron  vessels  are  to  be 
avoided.     Apply  forcibly  with  a  syringe  or  atomizer,  prefer- 
ably  in    the  evening.     If  effective,  the  mealy  bug 
wiH turn  buff -color.     For  other  Insects,  except  for 
the  scale,  mentioned  below,   the  solution  will  not 
need  to  be  more  than  half  or  a  fourth  so  strong. 

The  codlin-moth 

Where  there  are  only  a  few  mealy  bugs,  the  plant 
may  be  gone  over  with  a  soft  brush  and  the  Insects 
crushed. 

Scales  are  most  commonly  of  a  brown  or  whitish 
color,  flat  or  tortoise -shaped,  and  easily  seen.  They  adhere 
closely  by  the  under  surface  of  their  bodies  to  the  stems, 
branches,  and  foliage  of  woody  plants.  The  mature  Insect 
is  stationary,  and  its  body  at  length  becomes  a  shell  contain- 
ing hundreds  of  eggs.  These  hatch,  and  the  young  emerge 
from  the  shell,  crawl  about  and  settle,  to  develop  into  the  fa- 
miliar form.  A  strong  solution  of  fir-tree  oil,  like  that  used  for 
mealybugs,  is  a  good  remedy.  A  strong  solution  of  whale-oil 
soap,  made  by  adding  an  ounce  or  more  of  the  soap  to  three 
gallons  of  water,  even  more  if  necessary,  is  also  useful  in 
combating  them.  After  dipping  or  syringing  the  plants 
they  may  be  allowed  to  stand  over  night,  when  they  should 
be  rinsed  off  with  clear  water.  Applications  may  need  re- 
peating every  three  or  four  days  until  the  Insects  are  gotten 
rid  of.  It  is  difficult,  for  a  time,  to  tell  when  they  are  dead. 
If  killed,  the  bodies  will  fall  off  easily,  and  in  the  case  of  the 
soft-shelled  species  shrivel  up  somewhat  after  a  time. 
Kerosene  and  water  emulsion  (see  Kerosene)  will  kill  them. 

Insecticide.  A  substance  which  will  kill  insects. 
Insecticides  are  of  two  general  classes  —  those  that  kill  by 
contact  (see  Kerosene) ,  and  those  that  poison  the  insect  (see 
Paris  Green  and  Hellebore). 


IRIS— KALE  139 

Iris.  Many  handsome  perennials,  of  which  the 
Blue  Flag  is  familiar  to  every  old-fashioned  garden.  Most 
Irises  thrive  best  in  a  rather  moist  soil,  and  some  of  them 
may  be  colonized  in  the  water  in  margins  of  ponds.  Gar- 
deners usually  divide  them  into  two  sections  — the  tuberous- 
rooted  or  rhizomatous,  and  the  bulbous.  A  third  division  — 
the  fibrous -rooted  —  is  sometimes  made.  The  common  and 
most  serviceable  species  belong  to  the  tuberous -rooted  sec- 
tion. Here  belongs  the  beautiful  and  varied  Japanese 
Iris,  Iris  Icevigata  (or  /.  K&mpferi],  which  is  among  the 
most  deserving  of  all  hardy  perennials.  Most  of  these  Irises 
need  no  special  care.  They  are  propagated  by  division  of 
the  rootstocks.  Plant  the  pieces  1  foot  apart  if  a  mass 
effect  is  desired.  When  the  plants  begin  to  fail,  dig  them 
up,  divide  the  roots,  discard  the  old  parts  and  grow  a  new 
stock,  as  before.  I.  Susiana,  of  this  section,  is  one  of  the 
oddest  of  Irises,  but  it  is  not  quite  hardy  in  the  North.  Of 
the  bulbous  section,  most  species  are  not  hardy  in  the 
North.  The  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  and  replanted  every 
two  or  three  years.  The  Persian  and  Spanish  Irises  belong 
here.  The  bulbs  give  rise  to  but  a  single  stem. 

Kale.  A  low -growing,  spreading  plant  be- 
longing to  the  cabbage  family  and  extensively  used  for 
winter  and  spring  greens.  The  same  culture  as  given  to  late 
cabbage  is  suitable.  At  the  approach  of  severe  freezing 
weather  a  slight  protection  is  given  in  the  North.  The 
leaves  remain  green  through  the  winter  and  may  be  gathered 
from  under  the  snow  at  a  time  when  material  for  greens  is 
scarce.  Some  of  the  Kales  are  very  ornamental  because  of 
their  blue  and  purple  curled  foliage.  The  Scotch  Curled  is 
the  most  popular  variety.  Kales  are  extensively  grown  at 
Norfolk,  Va.,  and  southward,  and  shipped  north  in  winter. 
Let  the  plants  stand  18  to  30  inches  apart.  Young  cabbage 
plants  are  sometimes  used  as  Kale.  See  Collards.  Bore- 
cole is  a  kind  of  Kale.  Sea  Kale  is  a  wholly  different  vege- 
table (which  see). 


140 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Kerosene  is  fatal  to  insects.      It  is  likely  to 

injure  plants  if  applied  full  strength,  although  if  applied  in 
full  sunlight  (so  that  evaporation  takes  place  rapidly)  it  may 
do  no  harm.  It  is  safest  to  apply  it  in  dilution.  Of  late, 
there  are  pumps  which  mix  or  emulsify  Kerosene  and  water 
in  definite  proportions,  and  this  mixture  (in  the  proportion 
of  •£  or  -|  Kerosene)  is  fatal  to  insects  and  usually  harmless  to 
plants.  The  standard  Kerosene  emulsion  is  with  soap,  but 
the  perfection  of  mechanical  devices  for  emulsifying  it  with 
water  is  probably  destined  to  supplant  the  soap  emulsion. 

Kerosene  Emulsion. —  Hard  soap,  %  pound  ;  boiling  soft 
water,  1  gallon ;  Kerosene,  2  gallons.  Dissolve  the  soap  in  the 
water,  add  the  Kerosene,  and  churn  with  a  pump  for  5  to  10 
minutes.  Dilute  10  to  25  times  before  applying.  Use  strong 
emulsion,  diluted  four  times  in  winter,  for  all  scale  insects. 
For  insects  which  suck,  as  plant-lice,  mealybugs,  red  spider, 
thrips,  bark-lice  or  scale.  Cabbage -worms,  currant- worms, 
and  all  insects  which  have  soft  bodies  can  also  be  success- 
fully treated. 

Kohlrabi.  This  vegetable  looks  like  a  leafy 
turnip  growing  above  ground.  If  used  when  small  (2  to  3 
inches  in  diam.),  and  not  allowed  to  become 
hard  and  tough,  it  is  of  superior  quality.  It 
should  be  more  generally  grown.  The  culture 
is  very  simple.  A  succession  of  sowings  should 
be  made  from  early  spring  until  the  middle  of 
summer,  in  drills  18  inches  to  2  feet  apart 
thinning  the  young  plants  to  6  or  8  inches  in 
„'  the  rows.  It  matures  as  quickly  as  turnips. 
One  ounce  of  seed  to  100  feet  of  drill. 

Lantana   is   a   popular   greenhouse 
pot-plant,  and  is  occasionally  seen  in  windovv- 
Lantana  gardens,  being  grown  for  the  profusion  of  its 

orange-red,  heliotrope-shaped  flowers.  In  the  South,  and 
sometimes  in  the  North,  it  is  planted  out  for  the  summer. 


LANTANA — LAWNS  141 

It  is  very  easy  to  grow,  and  also  to  propagate  by  means  of 
cuttings.  Although  the  flowers  of  the  common  species  are 
ill-scented,  the  profusion  of  bloom  makes  it  desirable. 

Larkspur.      DELPHINIUM.      The  Larkspurs  are 

among  the  very  best  hardy  plants,  being  free -flowering  and 
having  a  good  habit.  They  should  be  in  every  mixed 
border,  particularly  the  perennial  kinds.  The  tall  flower- 
spikes,  showing  above  the  cut  foliage,  give  the  plant  a 
striking  effect.  The  flowers  are  in  shades  of  blue  in  most 
varieties.  The  plants  are  propagated  by  division  of  root  or 
from  seed.  The  latter  method  will  give  good  results,  although 
the  resulting  plants  are  not  likely  to  be  the  same  variety 
as  the  seed  plant. 

As  winter  approaches,  a  covering  of  coarse  litter  should 
be  thrown  over  the  crowns  of  the  perennial  kinds.  The 
plants  will  come  into  bloom  in  late  June  and  continue  for  a 
long  season.  Plants  should  be  set  3  to  5  feet  apart  if  in  rows, 
but  they  are  seen  to  better  advantage  when  mixed  with  other 
border  plants.  Height  of  plants  from  3  to  5  feet. 

The  annual  Larkspur  may  be  grown  from  seed  sown  in 
heat  and  transplanted  to  the  ground  in  May  ;  or  seed  may 
be  sown  where  the  plants  are  wanted  and  the  seedlings 
thinned  to  1  foot.  These  seedlings  will  bloom  in  June,  and 
continue  through  the  summer.  Plants  grow  from  8  to  18 
inches  high. 

Lathyrus.  See  Pea,  Everlasting;  also,  Sweet 
Pea. 

Lawns.  In  order  to  have  a  good  Lawn,  two 
things  are  essential  :  first,  a  pleasing  surface  or  contour; 
second,  a  dense,  firm  sod. 

Inasmuch  as  the  Lawn  is,  or  should  be,  a  permanent 
thing,  it  is  necessary  that  the  greatest  care  be  exercised  to 
grade  the  land  and  to  thoroughly  prepare  it  before  any 
seeds  are  sown.  About  a  new  building  the  filling  should  be 
allowed  to  settle,  so  that  the  finished  surface  will  slope 


142  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

gradually  away  from  the  foundations  and  the  steps.     If  the 
land  is  very  hard  clay,  or  if  the  place  is  rather  low,  it  is 
always  well  to  lay  tile  under-drains  at  frequent  intervals. 
Everything  should  be  done  to  cause  the  land  to  be  deep 
and  loose,  so  that  the  grass  roots  will  run  far  into  the  soil 
|  ( and  not  be  pressed  for  lack  of  moisture  in  a  dry  time.    If 
the  land  has  not  had  applications  of  manure  in 
recent  years,  it  is  well  to  plow  in,  or  to  spade 
in,  a  liberal  quantity  of  well-rotted  litter  from 
the  barnyard.     Work  this  into  the  soil  as  deeply 
as  possible.    If  the  hardpan  is  rather  high,  it  is 
V*^ ^^s^aSUf^    well  to  subsoil  the  area  or  to  trench  it  (that  is, 
it  is  fun  to  make  a  garden    to  spade  it  up  two  or  three  spades  deep ) .    If  the 
land    is  apparently  not  fertile  in  plant- food,  it  is  well  to 
add  a  dressing  of  some  commercial  fertilizer  to  the  surface 
when  the  grass    seed  is   sown.      This  will    start   the  grass 
quickly  and  allow  it  to  get  a  foothold   before   the   severe 
weather  of  midsummer  comes. 

The  kind  of  grass  seed  to  sow  will  depend  upon  the  re- 
gion and  also  upon  the  personal  tastes  of  the  owner.  The 
one  standard  Lawn  grass  is  June  grass  or  blue  grass  (Poa 
pratensis).  The  seeds  of  this  grass  are  sold  in 
the  hulls,  and  therefore  the  bushel  weighs  only 
fourteen  pounds.  Not  less  than  two  and  one- 
half  to  three  bushels  should  be  sown  to  the  acre. 
In  the  southern  states,  June  grass  will  not  hold, 
and  Bermuda  grass  is  used,  being  sown  about  as 
thick  as  recommended  for  the  June  grass. 
There  are  various  prepared  Lawn  grass 
mixtures  which  are  excellent,  but  the  June 
grass  alone  will  give  a  very  excellent  Lawn 
in  a  short  time.  Whether  one  shall  sow 
white  clover  in  his  Lawn  depends  mostly 
upon  his  personal  taste.  If  he  likes  the 
white  clover,  it  is  well  to  put  in  a  quart  or 
two  of  seed  to  the  acre,  sowing  it  separately  A  garden  comer 


LAWNS  143 

from  the  June  grass  in  order  to  get  an  even  distribution. 
Some  persons  like  to  see  the  white  clover  in  certain  parts 
of  the  Lawn.  It  thrives  very  well  where  the  land  is  rather 
moist.  In  parts  of  the  East,  Rhode  Island  bent  grass  is 
used  for  lawns.  — — r=— 


The  grass  seed    should  be    sown    in  the     J»>»  $7 ~    $^ 
cool  of  the  year.     It  may  be  sown  in   Sep-         *      '  *^l 

tember  and  thereby  become  established  be-    ®V    $  ®    «j>    ^ 
fore  winter ;  or  it  may  be     H3      ^  G& 

sown   very    early   in   the  A  nursery 

spring.  In  newly  made  Lawns,  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  grade  the  area  thoroughly 
in  the  fall,  allowing  it  to  settle  in  the 
winter:  and  then,  if  the  surface  remains 

A  lawn,  with  planting  on  the  sides 

even,  to  sow  the  grass  seed  on  one  of  the 
latest  snows  in  spring.  By  sowing  it  on  the  snow,  one  can 
see  that  it  is  distributed  evenly  ;  and  when  the  snow 
melts,  the  seed  is  carried  into  the  land  and  does  not  need 
covering.  It  is  well  to  sow  three  or  four  quarts  per  acre 
of  timothy  seed,  for  the  timothy  germinates  very  quickly, 
and  makes  a  green  area  the  first  season,  but  is  killed  out 
as  soon  as  the  June  grass  gains  a  foothold.  Timothy 
will  not  stand  the  continued  cutting,  whereas  the  June 
grass  will.  The  timothy,  therefore,  serves  as  a  temporary 
covering  to  the  land,  indicating  where  the  borders  are, 
and  thereby  outlining  the  area  for  the  Lawn  mower  to 
cut.  The  timothy  seed  should  be  sown  separately  from  the 
June  grass  in  order  to  insure  even  distribution.  On  hard 
lands  it  is  well  to  sow  two  or  three  quarts  per  acre  of  crim- 
son clover  seed.  The  long  roots  of  this  plant  tend  to  improve 
the  physical  condition  of  the  soil  ;  and  when  they  decay, 
they  leave  nitrogen  in  the  soil  for  the  grass  to  use.  Since 
crimson  clover  is  an  annual  plant,  it  will  not  do  any  per- 
manent mischief  in  the  Lawn. 

The  first  season  the  weeds  will  probably  come  up  thickly, 
especially  if  the  land   is  rich.     These  weeds  should    not 


144  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

be  pulled,  for  whenever  one  is  pulled  out  of  the  ground, 
many  grass  plants  are  rooted  up  and  the  surface  is  made 
uneven.     The  only  way  in  which  to  keep  down  weeds  is  to 
mow  them  frequently  with  a  Lawn  mower.     They  will  not 
appear  in  any  great  numbers  the  second  year,  unless  there 
should  be  some  perennial  weeds,  like  dandelion  or  dock;  and 
these  may  be  pulled  out  the  first  fall  or  the  following  spring. 
It  is  rare  that  one  secures  a  perfectly  good  and  uniform 
sod  from  one  sowing  of  seed  ;  especially  is  this  true  if  the 
soil  varies  in  different   parts  of  the  area.      If   the  surface 
contour   is   satisfactory,  it   is  unwise   to    dig  up  the  areas 
on  which  the  seed  has  not  caught.     It  is  best  to  rake  them 
over  with  a  steel  rake  in  fall  or  spring,  sowing  on  a  little 
commercial  fertilizer  rather  rich  in  nitrogen,  and  sow  more 
seed.    Nearly  every  Lawn  will  need  patching  in  this  way 
from  year  to  year.     If  the  Lawn  is  attended  to  in  fall  and 
spring  by  sowing  grass  seed,  the  weeds  will  rarely  do  seri- 
ous mischief.      When  weeds  are  troublesome  on  the  Lawn, 
it    means   that    there   is    not    sufficient   grass,    and   every 
effort  should  be  made  to  get  more  grass.     Therefore,  when 
the  perennial  weeds  are  pulled  out,  sow  more  grass  seed. 
When  narrow -leaved  plantain  bothers,  it  is  an  indication 
that  the  land  is  too  poor  and  dry  for  grass. 
In  such  cases,  the  land  usually  lacks  humus 
or  vegetable  matter  ;  and  in  various  severe 
incursions  of  the  plantain,  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  spade  up  the  weedy  areas  and  to  work 
rotted  manure  into  the  soil.     Usually,  how- 
ever, the  plantain  can  be  killed  out  by  en- 
riching the  soil  and  sowing  more  grass  seed. 
The  common  practice  of  sprinkling  Lawns  is 
nearly  always  pernicious,  since  the  water  is  not 
v^r^-  supplied  in  sufficient  amount  to  wet  down  very  far, 
and  the  grass  tends  to  make  surface  roots.    When  the 
.    .  .,,  watering  is  omitted  the  plants   suffer.     The  more  a 

A  picturesque  rill 

on  the  lawn     Lawn  is  sprinkled,  the  more  the  grass  depends  upon 


LAWNS  145 

the  sprinkling.  If  it  is  necessary  to  water  the  Lawn,  the 
water  should  be  allowed  to  run  directly  from  the  hose  until 
the  surface  area  is  completely  soaked.  It  is  best  to  do  this 
at  nightfall.  When  the  water  is  applied  by  means  of  a 
sprinkler,  a  large  part  of  it  evaporates  and  does  no  good  to 
the  ground.  The  fundamental  treatment  of  the  Lawn  is  to 
have  the  land  so  deep  and  porous  that  the  grass  roots  strike 
deep  into  the  soil  and  do  not  need  the  surface  water.  A 
Lawn  which  is  well  made  will  need  watering  only  in  unusu- 
ally dry  timefe.  • 

Mow  the  Lawn  frequently  when  it  is  growing  rapidly, 
—  in  spring  and  early  summer.  In  the  fall  mow  less 
frequently,  and  let  it  go  into  the  winter  with  a  long  coat 
of  grass.  If  the  Lawn  is  mown  as  often  as  is  needed, 
it  will  not  be  necessary  to  rake  off  the  trimmings.  In  fall, 
top-dress  the  Lawn  with  commercial  fertilizer  at  the  rate  of 
500  pounds  to  the  acre.  If  the  Lawn  has  not  been  raked 
clean  of  all  the  trimmings  and  decayed  refuse  which  covers 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  it  is  not  necessary  to  dress  it 
with  stable  manure  ;  for  manure  is  unsightly,  unsavory,  and 
often  brings  in  weeds.  Many  persons  make  the  mistake  of 
raking  the  Lawn  clean  in  late  fall. 

Closely  associated  with  the  making  of  the  Lawn  is  the 
general  arrangement  of  the  planting.  It  is  the  common  fault 
to  scatter  the  planting.  Much  better  effects  are  secured  by 
massing  or  grouping  the  planting.  See  Borders  and  Flower 
Beds.  Particularly  along  the  boundaries  and  about  the 
foundations  of  buildings,  the  shrubbery  and  other  plants  may 
be  massed  to  excellent  effect.  In  large  places  there  should 
be  more  or  less  mass  planting  along  the  walks  and  drives. 
In  the  curves  and  retreats  of  these  plantings  one  will  find 
many  pleasant  corners  ;  and  here  the  children  may  have 
their  play-houses  and  their  pets.  A  little  brook  winding 
across  a  corner  or  along  one  side  of  a  Lawn  may  make  a 
pleasant  picture  if  it  is  allowed  to  take  on  a  half-wild 
character. 


146 


THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


A  layer 


Layers  are  parts  (usually  stems)  of  plants  laid 

down  on  the  earth  while  still  attached  to  the  parent,  with 
the  expectation  that  they  will  take  root  and  can  then  be 
separated  as  independent  plants.  All 
vine -like  plants  can  be  propagated  read- 
ily by  means  of  Layers ;  so  can  most  soft- 
wooded  plants,  as  willows,  maples,  cur- 
rants, etc.  It  is  usual  to  put  down  the 
branches  in  the  fall.  In  a  year  they 

should    be    ready    to    be    severed 

from  the  parent.     They  may  also 

be  made  in  spring,  before  growth 

starts.     See  that  the  layered  part 

rests  in  moist  earth.  Usually  roots 

arise  more  freely  if  the  shoot  is  cracked  or  notched  at 

the  buried  point.     The  Layer  may  be  held  down  by  a 
forked  stick  ("pegged    down"),  or 
by  a  stone  or  clod.     See  that  the 
shoot   does   not   throw  up  suckers 
several  layers  from  one  vine  behind  the  layered  part. 

Leek.  This  belongs  to  the  onion  family,  and  is 
used  mostly  as  flavoring  for  soups.  Well  grown  Leeks  have 
a  very  agreeable  and  not  very  strong  onion  flavor.  Leek  is  of 
the  easiest  culture,  and  is  usually  grown  as  a  second  crop,  to 
follow  beets,  early  peas,  and  other  early  stuff.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  a  seed-bed  in  April  or  early  May  and 
the  seedlings  planted  out  in  the  garden  in  July,  in  rows  2 
feet  apart,  the  plants  being  6  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  The 
plants  should  be  set  deep  if  the  neck  or  lower  part  of  the 
leaves  is  to  be  used  in  a  blanched  condition.  The  soil  may 
be  drawn  towards  the  plants  in  hoeing,  to  further  the 
blanching.  Being  very  hardy,  the  plants  may  be  dug  in 
late  fall,  and  stored  in  the  same  manner  as  celery,  in 
trenches  or  in  a  cool  root-cellar.  One  ounce  of  seed  to  300 
feet  of  drill. 


LETTUCE— LILY  147 

Lettuce  is  probably  the  most  extensively  grown 
salad  vegetable.    It  is  now  in  demand,  and  is  procurable,  every 
month  in  the  year.     The  winter  and  early  spring  crops  are 
grown  in  forcing-houses  and  coldframes,  but  a  supply  from 
the  garden  may  be  had  from  April  to  November,  by  the  use 
of  a  cheap  frame  in  which  to  grow  the  first  and  last  crops, 
relying   on  a  succession  of   sowings   for  the    intermediate 
supply.     Seed  for  the  first  crop  may  be  sown  in  a  coldframe 
in  March,  growing  the  crop  thick  and  having  many  plants 
which  are  small  and  tender  ;  or,  by  thinning  out  to  the  dis- 
tance of  3  inches  and  allowing  the  plants  to  make  a  larger 
growth,  the  plants  pulled  up  may  be  set  in  the  open  ground 
for  the  next  crop.      Sowings  should  be  made  in  the  garden 
from  April  to  October,  at  short  intervals.    A 
moist  location  should  be  selected  for  the  July 
and  August  sowings.    The  early  and  late  sow- 
ings should  be  of  some  loose -growing  variety, 
as   they  are  in  edible  condition  sooner   than 
the  cabbage  or  heading  varieties.  plant  of  heading  lettuce 

The  cabbage  varieties  are  far  superior  to  the  loose - 
growing  kinds  for  salads.  To  be  grown  to  perfection,  they 
should  have  very  rich  soil,  frequent  cultivation  and  an  oc- 
casional stimulant,  such  as  liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda. 
The  Cos  Lettuce  is  an  upright -growing  type  much  es- 
teemed in  Europe,  but  less  grown  here.  The  leaves  of  the 
full  grown  plants  are  tied  together,  thus  blanching  the  cen- 
ter, making  it  a  desirable  salad  or  garnishing  variety.  It 
thrives  best  in  summer.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  grow  3,000 
plants  or  sow  100  feet  of  drill.  In  the  garden,  plants  may 
stand  6  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  and  the  rows  may  be  as 
close  together  as  the  system  of  tillage  will  allow. 

Lily.  Bulbous  plants  of  many  kinds.  It  has 
been  said  of  this  family  of  plants  that  it  has  no  "poor 
relations,"  each  of  them  being  perfect  in  itself.  Many  of 
the  choicest  kinds  are  comparatively  unknown,  although 


148  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

easy  to  cultivate.  In  fact,  all  of  the  Lilies  may  be  grown 
with  comparative  ease.  A  light,  rich,  well-drained  soil, 
mellow  to  the  depth  of  at  least  1  foot,  a  handful  of  sand 
under  each  bulb  if  the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  stiff,  and 
planting  so  that  the  crown  of  the  bulb  will  be  at  least  4 
inches  below  the  surface,  are  the  general  requirements. 
One  exception  to  the  depth  of  planting  is  Lilium  auratum, 
or  Golden-Banded  Lily.  This  should  be  planted  deeper — 
at  least  8  inches  below  the  surface — as  the  new  bulbs  form 
over  the  old  one  and  soon  bring  the  bulbs  to  the  surface  if 
they  are  not  planted  deep. 

While  Lilies  may  have  partial  shade,  they  should  never 
be  planted  near  or  under  trees.     The  shade  or  protection  of 
tall-growing,    herbaceous  plants  is  sufficient.     In  fact,  the 
best  results,  both  as  to  growth  and  effect,  may  be  had  by 
planting   amongst   low   shrubbery  or  border  plants.     Most 
kinds  are  the  better  for  remaining  undisturbed  for  a  number 
of   years;  but  if  they  are  to  be  taken  up   and  divided,  or 
moved  to  other  quarters,  they  should  not  be  allowed  to  be- 
come dry.     The  small  bulbs,  or  offsets,  may  be  planted  in 
the  border,   and  if  protected  will  grow  to    flowering 
size  in  two  or  three  years.     In  taking  up  bulbs  for 
division  it  is   best  to  do  so   soon  after  the  tops  die 
after  blooming.     At  least  this  should  be  done  early 
in  the  fall,  not  later  than  October,  giving  the  plants 
a    chance    to    become    established    before    freezing 
weather.  A  mulch  of  coarse  litter  or  evergreen  boughs 
should   be  placed  over   the   bulbs   after  the    ground 
has  become  frozen,  to  be  gradually  removed  as  the 
spring  advances. 

As  pot-plants  some  Lilies  are  very  satisfactory, 
Easter  Lily  espeeiaiiy  those  that  may  be  forced  into  bloom  through 
the  winter.  The  best  kinds  for  this  purpose  are  L.  Harrisii 
(Easter  Lily),  L.  longiflorum,  and  L.  candidum.  Others 
may  be  forced  with  success,  but  these  are  the  ones  most 
generally  used.  The  winter  culture  of  these  for  forcing  is 


LILY — LOBELIA  149 

the  same  as  for  Hyacinths  (in  pots),  which  see.      The  article 
on    Bulbs    gives   directions  for    both    outdoor   and    indoor 
growing  which  are  directly  applicable  to  Lilies. 
Lily,  Chinese  Sacred.     See  Narcissus. 

Lily-of-the-Valley.  A  perfectly  hardy  little 
plant,  bearing  racemes  of  small  white  bell-shaped  flowers 
in  early  spring.  For  ordinary  cultivation,  sods  or  mats  of 
roots  may  be  dug  from  any  place  in  which  the  plant  is 
colonized.  Usually  it  thrives  best  in  partial  shade;  and 
the  leaves  make  an  attractive  mat  on  the  north  side  of  a 
building,  or  other  shady  place,  in  which  grass  will  Dot 
grow.  The  plants  will  take  care  of  themselves  year  after 
year. 

For  forcing  indoors,  imported  roots  or  "pips"  are  used, 
as  the  plants  are  grown  for  this  particular  purpose  in  parts 
of  Europe.  These  roots  may  be  planted  in  pots,  and 
treated  as  recommended  for  winter-flowering  bulbs,  under 
Bulbs.  Florists  force  them  in  greater  heat,  however,  often 
giving  them  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  or  90°;  but  skill  and 
experience  are  required  in  order  to  attain  uniformly  good 
results  in  this  case. 

Line.     A  garden  Line  is  one  of  the  most  con- 
venient  things    connected  with    garden  operations.     It  is 
always  wanted  when  long  rows  of  seed  are  to  be 
sown,  and  it  is  also  necessary  in  laying  out  walks 
or  drives.      A  very  simple,  yet  handy,  holder  for  a 
line  is  shown  on  the  margin.     The  pin  is  driven  in 
the  soil  at  the  starting  point,  and  the  line  is  un- 
wound as  the  operator  walks  towards  the  end  of 
the    row.      A  line    should  be   100 
„—  feet     long    for     common     garden 

A  garden  Line  Operations. 

Lobelia.  Some  of  these  are  well-known  gar- 
den plants,  being  used  very  freely  as  edging  for  ribbon 
beds  or  basket  plants.  They  require  a  loose,  rich  soil,  and 


150       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

some  stimulant  when  in  full  flower.  The  flowers  continue 
through  a  long  season.  They  propagate  freely  from  seed. 
Lobelia  Erinus,  in  blue,  6  inches  high,  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  all  annual  edging  plants.  In  Europe  various 
perennial  Lobelias  are  popular,  but  they  are  seldom  seen  in 
American  gardens. 

London  Purple.    Discussed  under  Paris  Green. 
Love-Lies-Bleeding.     See  Amarantus. 

Manure  adds  plant-food  to  the  soil,  and  it  also 
improves  the  texture  or  physical  condition  of  the  soil.  This 
latter  effect  is  often  its  greatest  value.  If  one  wants  mere 
plant-food  alone,  he  may  often  do  better  to  add  it  in  some 
more  concentrated  form.  See  Fertilizers.  Manure,  when 
thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  soil,  makes  the  ground 
congenial  for  the  plant.  It  is  important,  in  garden  opera- 
tions, that  the  Manure  be  rotted  or  composted,  or  "short" 
or  "fine,"  as  the  gardeners  say.  It  then  incorporates  readily 
with  the  soil  and  quickly  gives  up  its  fertility.  Manure  is 
composted  by  letting  it  decay  in  piles.  The  compost  pile 
should  be  flat  on  top,  so  that  it  will  catch  the  rains,  and  3 
to  5  feet  high. 

The  most  desirable  Manure  for  the  garden  and  for  house 
plants  is  probably  old  cow  Manure.  It  does  not  burn  or  lose 
its  strength.  It  may  be  kept  for  a  number  of  years  if  piled 
under  shelter,  becoming  more  available  each  year.  It  mixes 
well  with  soil  and  leaf -mold.  When  once  rotted,  this  manure 
is  very  lasting  and  easily  assimilated  by  plants.  Horse 
Manure  is  very  likely  to  become  overheated,  and  to  lose  its 
value;  and  it  is  too  loose  and  dry  for  many  purposes.  Pig 
Manure,  unless  well  composted  with  soil  or  refuse,  is  usually 
too  heavy  and  rich.  Sheep  Manure  is  at  its  best  when  used 
in  a  liquid  form,  although  it  is  most  excellent  to  mix  with 
soil  to  loosen  it. 

All  garden  refuse,  such  as  vines,  leaves,  decaying  vege- 
tables, will  make  Manure  if  composted  with  soil ;  and  if  the 


MANURE— MIGNONETTE  151 

wash  water  is  thrown  on  the  compost  pile  much  fertility  will 
be  added.  Wood  ashes  from  stoves,  the  chip  dirt  from  the 
woodshed  —  in  fact,  almost  any  substance  that  will  decay  — 
will  furnish  plant-food,  and  should  be  added  to  the  compost 
pile.  This  pile  should  be  turned  often,  to  mix  the  material. 
When  practicable,  it  is  best  to  apply  Manure  in  the  fall, 
as  it  then  has  time  to  become  incorporated  with  the  soil  be- 
fore spring.  Beds  which  are  to  be  used  for  flowers  next  year 
may  be  dressed  with  Manure  in  the  fall  and  deeply  spaded, 
leaving  the  surface  rough  and  loose.  It  is  well  to  be  care- 
ful that  the  Manure  does  not  contain  weed  seeds. 

Marigold.  The  Marigolds  of  the  old-fashioned 
gardens  are  still  among  the  best  of  plants  for  fall  color. 
They  are  hardy  annuals  of  the  easiest  culture,  and  are  always 
certain  of  giving  strong  and  excellent  results.  They  have 
been  much  improved  of  late  years.  The  old-fashioned 
African  Marigolds  grow  2  to  3  feet  high,  and  they  are  use- 
ful for  scattering  in  mixed  borders  or  making  large  masses 
or  displays  of  color  in  the  remoter  parts  of  the  place.  The 
French  or  dwarf  Marigolds  grow  about  1  foot  high  and  are 
more  tufty  in  their  habit.  They  are  better  adapted  for  edg- 
ings than  for  mass  effects  in  the  main  parts  of  the  grounds. 
All  Marigolds  may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand, 
since  the  flowers  are  usually  not  wanted  until  late  summer 
or  early  fall,  at  which  time  they  usually  give  their  best 
bloom.  If  they  are  wanted  earlier,  however,  the  seeds  may 
be  started  in  the  house  or  hotbed.  Tall  varieties  may  be 
allowed  to  stand  from  10  to  18  inches  apart  and  the  dwarfs 
at  somewhat  less  distances. 

Matthiola  will  be  found  under  Stocks. 

Mignonette.  Probably  no  flower  is  more  gen- 
erally grown  for  its  fragrance  than  this.  The  Mignonette 
needs  a  cool  soil,  only  moderately  rich,  shade  part  of  the 
day,  and  careful  attention  to  cutting  the  flower- stalks  before 
the  seeds  are  ripe-  If  a  sowing  be  made  in  late  April,  fol- 


152       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

lowed  by  a  second  sowing  in  early  July,  the  season  may  be 
extended  until  severe  frosts.  There  are  few  flowers  that 
will  prove  as  disappointing  if  the  treatment  it  needs  is 
omitted.  Height  1  to  2  feet.  Treated  as  a  half-hardy  an- 
nual. It  can  be  sown  in  pots  late  in  summer  and  had  in  the 
house  in  winter. 

Moon-Flowers  are  species  of  Morning -Glories 
that  open  their  flowers  at  night.  A  well-grown  plant 
trained  over  a  porch  trellis,  or  allowed  to  grow  at  random 
over  a  low  tree  or  shrub,  is  a  striking  object  when  in  full 
flower  at  dusk  or  through  a  moonlit  evening.  In  the  south- 
ern states  the  Moon-Flower  is  a  perennial,  but  even  when 
well  protected  does  not  survive  the  winters  in  the  North. 
Cuttings  may  be  made  before  danger  of  frost  and  wintered 
in  the  house,  or  the  plants  may  be  grown  from  seed  sown  in 
January  or  February.  Cuttings  usually  give  best  results  in 
the  northern  states,  as  the  seasons  are  not  long  enough  for 
seed  plants  to  give  good  bloom.  Seeds  should  be  scalded  or 
filed  just  before  sowing.  The  true  Moon-Flower  is 
Ipomcea  Bona-Nox,  white-flowered ;  but  there  are  other 
kinds.  This  grows  20  to  30  feet  where  the  seasons 
are  long  enough. 

Morning-Glory  is  perhaps  the  most  pop- 
ular of  all  twining  herbs,  because  of  the  ease  with 
which  it  may  be  grown,  the  quickness  with  which 
it  covers  the  object,  and  the  quantities  of  bright, 
cheerful  flowers  it  bears.  Many  of  the  kinds  —  in 
fact  all  that  are  generally  known  —  may  be  readily 
grown  frOm  seed,  flowering  early  in  the  summer. 
Tender  annuals.  Give  rich  soil  and  plenty  of  water.  The 
beautiful  cypress  vine  belongs  to  this  group.  It  requires  the 
same  treatment  as  the  Morning- Glory,  but  the  seeds  should 
be  scalded  just  previous  to  sowing. 

Dwarf  Morning-Glories  (Convolvulus  tricolor}.    They  come 
into  flower  much  sooner  than  the   tall    climbing  varieties, 


MORNING  -GLORY — MULCH  153 

and  are  covered  with  flowers  through  a  long  season.  They 
may  be  used  with  fine  effect  in  vases  or  large  hanging 
baskets.  Give  a  full  sunny  exposure.  May  thrive  on  soil 
that  is  not  very  rich.  They  grow  1  foot  high.  Half-hardy 
annuals. 

Mulberry.  Both  for  fruit  and  ornament  the 
Mulberry  should  be  more  generally  planted.  Even  if  the 
fruit  is  not  to  the  taste,  the  tree  is  naturally  open-cen- 
tered and  round-headed,  and  is  an  interesting  subject;  some 
of  the  varieties  have  finely  cut  leaves.  The  fruits  are  in 
great  demand  by  the  birds,  and  after  they  begin  to  ripen  the 
strawberry  beds  and  cherry  trees  are  free  from  robins  and 
other  fruit-eating  birds.  For  this  reason  alone  they  are  a 
valuable  tree  for  the  fruit-grower.  Trees  may  be  pur- 
chased cheaper  than  one  can  propagate  them. 

If  planted  in  orchard  form,  place  them  25  to  30  feet 
apart.  About  the  borders  of  a  place  they  can  go  closer. 
The  Eussian  varieties  are  often  planted  for  windbreaks,  for 
they  are  very  hardy  and  thrive  under  the  greatest  neglect ; 
and  for  this  purpose  they  may  be  planted  8  to  20  feet 
apart.  The  Russians  make  excellent  screens.  They  stand 
clipping  well.  New  American,  Trowbridge  and  Thorburn 
are  leading  kinds  of  fruit-bearing  Mulberries  for  the  North. 
The  true  Downing  is  not  hardy  in  the  northern  states ;  but 
New  American  is  often  sold  under  this  name.  Mulberries 
thrive  in  any  good  soil,  and  need  no  special  treatment. 

Mulch  is  used  both  in  protecting  plants  from 
the  severe  freezing  of  winter  and  the  severe  drought  of 
summer.  The  same  material  may  be  used  in  either  case, 
although  it  is  now  considered  best  to  make  an  earth  Mulch 
to  prevent  evaporation  and  retain  the  moisture  through  the 
dry  season.  This  earth  Mulch  is  made  by  breaking  the 
crust  of  the  soil  and  leaving  it  in  fine  particles.  This  may 
be  done  with  a  horse  cultivator,  a  hoe  or  a  rake.  In  fact, 
any  tool  which  leaves  the  top  of  the  soil  loose  will  be  in- 
strumental in  preventing  evaporation  of  soil  water.  See 


154       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

Tillage.  The  Mulching  of  the  ground  around  blackberries, 
currants  gooseberries  or  raspberries  with  straw  or  hay  is 
often  practiced  to  keep  the  fruits  clean ;  and  the  winter 
Mulch  of  strawberry  beds  is  used  between  the  rows  for  the 
same  purpose,  as  well  as  to  retain  moisture  and  to  afford 
winter  protection.  Winter  Mulch  usually  consists  of  leaves, 
straw,  hay,  rough  manure,  boughs  of  evergreens,  or  any 
coarse  material  that  will  protect  the  plants  from  severe 
freezing  and  the  heaving  caused  by  alternate  freezing  and 
thawing.  This  winter  Mulch  should  be  removed  as  spring 
advances,  unless  it  is  of  such  a  character  as  to  be 
worked  into  the  soil  to  add  fertility  or  to  loosen  heavy 
lands.  Near  the  seacoast  salt  hay  is  considered  to  be  an 
ideal  Mulch.  The  winter  Mulch  must  not  contain  too  strong 
or  heav.y  manures,  or  plants  may  be  injured  by  the  leaching. 
For  flower  borders  and  shrubbery,  muck  or  peat  makes  a 
good  winter  Mulch.  Ordinarily  the  Mulch  may  be  placed  on 
to  the  depth  of  4  to  6  inches,  and  if  it  is  of  loose  material  it 
may  be  still  deeper.  If  dry  and  loose,  mice  may  nest  in  it 
and  girdle  the. trees  or  bushes.  Even  perfectly  hardy  plants 
are  benefited  by  a  winter  Mulch,  because  it  improves  the 
soil.  Autumn  leaves,  as  they  drift  into  shrubberies,  make 
an  ideal  Mulch  ;  it  is  not  always  necessary  to  remove  these 
leaves.  See  Lawn. 

Mushroom.  There  is  no  science  of  Mush- 
room growing.  Certain  conditions  have  been  found  to  give 
success,  but  it  is  not  known  why.  These  conditions  may  be 
imitated  ever  so  closely  and  complete  failure  result.  There 
are  many  "systems"  advised,  each  system  the  result  of 
somebody's  success;  but  one  cannot  be  sure  of  success  by 
following  any  one  of  them.  Good  results  are  frequently  at- 
tained when  all  rules  are  broken.  The  following  paragraphs 
are  from  "Farmers'  Bulletin,"  No.  53  (by  William  Fal- 
coner), of  the  U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agriculture  (March,  1897) : 

Mushrooms  are  a  winter  crop,  coming  in  from  Septem- 
ber till  April  or  May  —  that  is,  tho  work  of  preparing  the 


MUSHROOM  155 

manure  begins  in  September  and  ends  in  February,  and  the 
packing  of  the  crop  begins  in  October  or  November  and  ends 
in  May.  Under  extraordinary  conditions  the  season  may 
begin  earlier  and  last  longer,  and,  in  fact,  it  may  continue 
all  summer. 

Mushrooms  can  be  grown  almost  anywhere  out  of  doors, 
and  also  indoors  where  there  is  a  dry  bottom  in  which  to  set 
the  beds,  where  a  uniform  and  moderate 
temperature  can  be  maintained,  and  where 
the  beds  can  be  protected  from  wet  over- 
head, and  from  winds,  drought,  and  direct 
sunshine.  Among  the  most  desirable  places 
in  which  to  grow  Mushrooms  are  barns,  cel- 
lars, closed  tunnels,  sheds,  pits,  green- 
houses, and  regular  Mushroom  houses.  Total 
darkness  is  not  imperative,  for  Mushrooms  grow  well  in 
open  light  if  shaded  from  sunshine.  The  temperature  and 
moisture  are  more  apt  to  be  equable  in  dark  places  than  in 
open,  light  ones,  and  it  is  largely  for  this  reason  that 
Mushroom  houses  are  kept  dark. 

The  best  fertilizer  for  Mushrooms,  so  far  as  the  writer's 
experience  goes,  is  fresh  horse  manure.  Get  together  a  lot 
of  this  material  (short  and  strawy)  that  has  been  well 
trampled  and  wetted  in  the  stable.  Throw  it  into  a  heap, 
wet  it  well  if  it  is  at  all  dry,  and  let  it  heat.  When  it  begins 
to  steam  turn  it  over,  shake  it  well  so  as  to  mix  thoroughly 
and  evenly,  and  then  tramp  it  down  solid.  After  this  let  it 
stand  till  it  again  gets  quite  warm,  then  turn,  shake,  trample 
as  before,  and  add  water  freely  if  it  is  getting  dry.  Repeat 
this  turning,  moistening  and  trampling  as  often  as  it  is 
needful  to  keep  the  manure  from  "burning."  If  it  gets  in- 
tensely hot,  spread  it  out  to  cool,  after  which  again  throw  it 
together.  After  being  turned  in  this  way  several  times,  and 
the  heat  in  it  is  not  apt  to  rise  above  130°  F.,  it_ should  be 
ready  to  make  up  in  the  beds.  By  adding  to  the  manure  at  the 
second  or  third  turning  one -fourth  or  one -fifth  of  its  bulk  of 


156  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

loam,  the  tendency  to  intense  heating  is  lessened  and  its 
usefulness  not  at  all  impaired.  Some  growers  prefer  short 
manure  exclusively,  that  is,  the  horse  droppings,  while  others 
like  a  good  deal  of  straw  mixed  in  with  this.  The  writer's 
experience,  however,  is  that,  if  properly  prepared,  it  matters 
little  which  is  used. 

Ordinarily  the  beds  are  only  8  to  10  inches  deep;  that  is, 
they  are  faced  with  10 -inch- wide  hemlock  boards,  and  are 
only  the  depth  of  this  board.  In  such  beds  put  a  layer  of 
fresh,  moist,  hot  manure,  and  trample  it  down  firm  until  it 
constitutes  half  the  depth  of  the  bed  ;  then  fill  up  with  the 
prepared  manure,  which  should  be  rather  cool  (100°  to  115° 
F.)  when  used,  and  pack  all  firmly.  If  desired,  the  beds  can 
be  made  up  entirely  of  the  prepared  manure.  Shelf  beds  are 
usually  9  inches  deep;  that  is,  the  shelf  is  bottomed  with 
1-inch  boards  and  faced  with  10- inch- wide  boards.  This  al- 
lows about  8  inches  for  manure,  and  1  inch  rising  to  2  inches 
of  loam  on  top.  In  filling  the  shelf  beds  the  bottom  half  may 
be  of  fresh,  moist  or  wettish,  hot  manure,  packed  down  solid, 
and  the  top  half  of  rather  cool  prepared  manure,  or  it  may 
be  made  up  of  all  prepared  manure.  As  the  shelf  beds  can 
not  be  trodden  and  can  not  be  beaten  very  firm  with  the  back 
of  the  fork,  a  brick  is  used  in  addition  to  the  fork. 

The  beds  should  be  spawned  after  the  heat  in  them  has 
fallen  below  100°  F.  The  writer  considers  90°  F.  about  the 
best  temperature  for  spawning.  If  the  beds  have  been 
covered  with  hay,  straw,  litter  or  mats,  these  should  be 
removed.  Break  each  brick  into  twelve  or  fifteen  pieces. 
The  rows  should  be,  say,  1  .foot  apart,  the  first  one  being  6 
inches  from  the  edge,  and  the  pieces  should  be  9  inches 
apart  in  the  row.  Commencing  with  the  first  row,  lift  up 
each  piece,  raise  2  to  3  inches  of  the  manure  with  the 
hand,  and  into  this  hole  place  the  piece,  covering  over 
tightly  with  the  manure.  When  the  entire  bed  is  spawned 
pack  the  surface  all  over.  It  is  well  to  cover  the  beds 
again  with  straw,  hay  or  mats,  to  keep  the  surface  equally 


MUSHROOM — MUSKMELON  157 

moist.  The  flake  spawn  is  planted  in  the  same  way  as  the 
brick  spawn,  only  not  quite  so  deep. 

At  the  end  of  eight  or  nine  days  the  mulching  should  be 
removed  and  the  beds  covered  with  a  layer  of  good  loam  2 
inches  thick,  so  that  the  Mushrooms  can  come  up  in  and 
through  it.  This  gives  them  a  firm  hold,  and  to  a  large  ex- 
tent improves  their  quality  and  texture.  Any  fair  loam  will 
do.  That  from  an  ordinary  field,  wayside  or  garden  is 
generally  used,  and  it  answers  admirably.  There  exists  an 
idea  that  garden  soil  surfeited  with  old  manure  is  unfit  for 
Mushroom  beds  because  it  is  apt  to  produce  spurious  fungi. 
This,  however,  is  not  the  case.  In  fact,  it  is  the  earth  most 
commonly  used.  For  molding  the  beds  the  loam  should  be 
rather  fine,  free  and  mellow,  so  that  it  can  be  easily  and 
evenly  spread  and  compacted  firmly  into  the  manure. 

If  an  even  atmospheric  temperature  of  from  55°  to  60°  F. 
can  be  maintained,  and  the  house  or  cellar  containing  the 
Mushroom  beds  is  kept  close  and  free  from  drafts,  the  beds 
may  be  left  uncovered,  and  should  be  watered  if  they  become 
dry.  But  no  matter  where  the  beds  are  situated,  it  is  well  to 
lay  some  loose  hay  or  straw  or  some  old  matting  or  carpet 
over  them  to  keep  them  moist.  The  covering,  however, 
should  be  removed  just  as  soon  as  the  young  Mushrooms 
begin  to  appear  above  ground.  If  the  atmosphere  is  dry, 
the  pathways  and  walls  should  be  sprinkled  with  water. 
The  mulching  should  also  be  sprinkled,  but  not  enough  to 
cause  the  water  to  soak  into  the  bed.  However,  if  the  bed 
should  get  dry,  do  not  hesitate  to  water  it. 

Muskmelon.  The  natural  soil  for  melons  is 
a  light,  sandy  loam,  well  enriched  with  rotted  manure, 
although  good  crops  may  be  grown  on  soil  naturally  heavy 
if  the  hills  are  prepared  as  they  should  be.  When  only 
heavy  soil  is  available,  the  dirt  where  the  seeds  are  to  be 
planted  should  be  thoroughly  pulverized  and  mixed  with 
fine,  well  rotted  manure.  A  sprinkling  of  leaf-mold  or 
chip-dirt  will  help  to  lighten  it.  On  this  hill  from  ten  to 


158  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

fifteen  seeds  may  be  sown,  thinning  to  four  or  five  vines 
when  danger  of  insects  is  over.  The  season  may  be  ad- 
vanced and  the  damage  from  insects  lessened  by  starting  the 
plants  in  hotbeds.  This  may  be  done  by  using  fresh  sod, 
cut  into  6- inch  pieces,  placing  them  grass-side  down  in  the 
hotbed,  sowing  eight  to  ten  seeds  on  each  piece,  and  cover- 
ing with  2  inches  of  light  soil.  When  all  danger  of  frost  is 
over,  and  the  ground  has  become  warm,  these  sods  may  be 
carefully  lifted  and  set  in  the  prepared  hills.  The  plants 
usually  grow  without  check,  and  fruit  from  two 
to  four  weeks  ahead  of  those  from  seed  planted 
directly  in  the  hill.  Old  quart  berry  boxes  are 
excellent  to  plant  seeds  in,  as,  when  they  are 

Muskmeion  set  in  the  ground>  thev  veiT  quickly  decay, 

causing  no  restriction  to  the  roots.  Netted 
Gem,  Hackensack,  Emerald  Gem,  Montreal,  Osage,  and 
the  Nutmeg  Melon  are  popular  varieties.  One  ounce  of 
seed  will  plant  about  fifty  hills. 

For  insects,  see  Cucumber. 

Musk  Plant  is  an  old-fashioned  house  plant 
of  easy  culture.  Raise  a  new  stock  from  seeds  as  soon  as 
the  plants  begin  to  fail. 

Narcissus.  Hardy  bulbous  plants,  including 
the  daffodils,  jonquils,  and  other  forms.  The  ease  with 
which  these  plants  may  be  grown,  the  beauty  and  fragrance 
of  the  flowers,  as  well  as  their  lasting  qualities  when  cut, 
would  seem  to  make  their  culture  in  .this  country  more 
popular  than  it  is.  Good  bulbs  planted  in  September  or 
October  are  sure  to  bloom  in  April  or  May.  The  bulbs  may 
remain  in  the  ground  for  a  number  of  years,  although  the 
best  results  will  be  had  by  digging  them  up  every  three 
years,  and  resetting  in  a  different  location.  Select  a  moist, 
loamy  soil,  slightly  protected  from  the  sun.  No  manure 
should  come  directly  in  contact  with  the  bulb,  but  if  needed 
to  hold  moisture  the  manure  may  be  spaded  down  to  the 
depth  of  twelve  inches, 


NARCISSUS —NASTURTIUM 


159 


Narcissus 


Narcissus  may  be  forced  into  flower  through  the  winter, 
as  described  under  Bulbs.  The  most  popular  for  winter 
bloom  is  the  "Chinese  Sacred  Lily."  This 
grows  in  water  without  any  soil  whatever. 
Secure  a  bowl  or  glass  dish,  about  three  times 
the  size  of  the  bulb;  put  some  pretty  stones 
in  the  bottom ;  set  in  the  bulb  and  build  up 
around  it  with  stones  so  as  to  hold  it  stiff  when 
the  leaves  have  grown ;  tuck  two  or  three  small 
pieces  of  charcoal  among  the  stones  to  keep 
the  water  sweet,  then  fill  up  the  dish  with 
water  and  add  a  little  every  few  days,  as  it 
evaporates.  Set  the  dish  in  a  warm,  light 
place.  In  about  six  weeks 
the  fragrant,  fine  white  flow 
ers  will  fill  the  room  with  perfume. 

Nasturtiums  (Tropceolums)  are 
both  dwarf  and  climbing.  The  Dwarf 
Nasturtiums  make  one  of  the  most  showy 
second-row  plants  for  the  border.  The 
colors  of  the  flowers  have  a  wide  range 
and  the  plants  bloom  profusely.  It  is 
not,  however,  the  plant  in  flower  that  is 
the  greatest  consideration,  but  the  flowers 
themselves  as  cut-flowers.  No  flower 
makes  a  finer  display  in  vase  or  bowl 
than  these  rich  colors,  all  harmonizing 
well  and  lighting  up  a  room  as  very  few 
of  the  common  easily  grown  flowers  do. 
The  same  maybe  said  of  the  tall-growing 
Nasturtiums,  although  the  flowers  of 
these  form  part  of  their  effectiveness 
as  screen  vines.  Few  climbers  make  a 
more  rapid  growth,  and  none  are  better 
adapted  to  hide  unsightly  objects  in  our 
Nasturtium  yards  or  gardens. 


160  THE    PRACTICAL,    GARDEN -BOOK 

For  a  long  season  of  flowers  and  a  large  growth  of  vine 
the  seed  should  be  sown  late  in  March  or  early  in  April, 
in  boxes  or  pots,  the  plants  carried  along  until  the  first 
of  May,  and  planted  out  where  wanted.  The 
dwarf  varieties  bloom  more  freely  and  the  flowers 
are  of  better  color  in  rather  poor  soils,  while  for 
rapid  growth  of  vine  a  well  enriched  border  would 
be  the  best.  The  dwarf  varieties  may  be  planted 
2  or  3  feet  apart,  and  the  tall  ones  as  wanted  to 
make  a  screen.  The  tall  kinds  grow  5  to  8  feet. 
All  Nasturtiums  are  tender. 

Nicotiana.     Tender  annuals  (or  grown 

as  annuals).     They  are  fine  plants  for  borders  or 
pots,   the  tall -growing  varieties  making  a  very  fine  show 
when  in  flower,  having  pure  white  flowers  with  long,  tubular 
necks,   the  season  of   bloom  being  from   July  to 
October.     The  seeds  are  very  fine,  and  should  be 
sown  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  in  boxes  or  pots. 
When  planted  out  they  should  be  set  from  2  to  5 
feet  apart,  according  to  kind.     Some  of  the  giant 
Nicotianas  are  excellent   subjects    for   temporary 
screens  ;  so  is  tobacco,  which  is  also  a  Nicotiana. 

Nicotiana  ajfinis  is  one  of  the  best  of  all  garden 
flowers.  Its  long  white  flowers  are  fragrant  at 
evening,  They  close  in  the  hot  sun.  It  is  a  half- 
hardy  annual  of  easiest  culture.  Height  2  to  3 
feet. 

CEnothera.  EVENING  PRIMROSE.  A  very  in- 
teresting group  of  plants,  opening  their  flowers  at  evening. 
Many  of  them  are  fragrant  and  attract  night  insects,  espe- 
cially the  large  moths,  seldom  seen  until  dusk.  The  opening 
of  the  flowers  of  the  large-flowering  varieties  is  a  source  of 
pleasure  and  surprise,  as  one  flower  follows  another  in  open- 
ing, and  in  a  large  plant  the  late  opening  flowers  seem  to 
burst  all  at  one  time.  The  perennial  species  may  be  propa- 


CENOTHEEA— OLEANDER  161 

gated  by  division  or  seed,  the  annuals  by  seed.  Set  the 
tall  kinds  2  to  3  feet  apart.  Height  1  to  3  feet.  All 
of  easy  culture. 

Okra.     From  the  green  pods  of  this  vegetable 
is  made  the  well-known  Gumbo  soup  of  the  South,  where  the 
plant  is  more  extensively  grown  than  in  the  North.    The  pods 
are  also  used  in  their  green  state  for  stews,  and  are  dried  and 
used   in  winter,  when  they  are  nutritious,  and 
form  no  little  part  of  the  diet  in  certain  sections 
of  the  country.     The  seeds  are  very  sensitive 
to  cold  and  moisture,  and  should  not  be  sown 
until  the  ground  has  become  warm  —  the  last 
week  in  May  or  the  first  of  June  being  early 
enough  in  New  York.    The  seed  should  be  sown 
in  a  drill    1  inch  deep,  the  plants  thinned  to 

T   ->n  •       i         •       ±t  n  •        xi  i  Okra  or  Gumbo 

stand  12  inches  in  the  row.    Give  the  same  cul- 
ture as  for   corn.     One  ounce   will  sow  40  feet    of   drill. 
Dwarf    varieties   are   best  for  the  North.      Green    Density 
and  Velvet  are  leading  varieties. 

Oleander.  While  there  are  many  named  va- 
rieties of  the  Oleander,  but  two  are  often  seen  in  general 
cultivation.  These  are  the  common  red  and  white  varie- 
ties. Both  these,  as  well  as  the  named  varieties,  are  of 
easy  management  and  well  adapted  to  home  culture,  grow- 
ing in  pots  or  tubs  for  several  years  without  special  care. 
Well-grown  specimens  are  very  effective  as  porch  or  lawn 
plants,  or  may  be  used  to  good  advantage  in  mixed  beds  of 
tall-growing  plants,  plunging  the  pot  or  tub  to  the  rim  in  the 
soil.  The  plants  should  be  cut  back  after  flowering.  They 
should  be  rested  in  any  out-of-the-way  place  through  the 
winter.  When  brought  out  in  the  spring,  they  should  be 
given  sun  and  air  in  order  to  make  a  sturdy  growth.  Prop- 
agation is  effected  by  using  well -ripened  wood  for  cut- 
tings, placed  in  a  close  frame ;  or  the  slips  may  be  rooted  in 
a  bottle  or  can  of  water,  care  being  taken  to  supply  water  as 
evaporation  takes  place.  After  being  rooted,  they  may  be 


162       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

potted,  using  soil  with  a  large  proportion  of  sand.  Well 
established  plants  may  be  repotted  in  good  loam  and  well 
rotted  manure. 

Onions   are  grown  from  seeds  ("  black   seed") 

for  the  main  crop.  They  are  also  grown  from  sets  (whioh 
are  very  small  Onions,  arrested  in  their  development),  from 
"tops"  (which  are  bulblets  produced  in  the  place  of  flowers), 
and  from  multipliers  or  potato  onions,  which  are  compound 
bulbs. 

The  extremely  early  crop  of  Onions  is  grown  from  sets, 
and  the  late  or  fall  crop  is  grown  from  seed  sown  in  April 
or  early  May.  The  sets  may  be  saved  from  the  crop  har- 
vested the  previous  fall,  saving  no  bulbs  measuring  over  % 
of  an  inch  in  diameter,  or,  better,  they  may  be  pur- 
chased from  the  seedsman.  These  sets  should  be 
planted  as  early  as  possible  in  the  spring,  preferably 
on  land  that  has  been  manured  and  trenched  in  the 
fall.  Plant  in  rows  12  inches  apart,  the  sets  being  2 
or  3  inches  in  the  row.  Push  the  sets  well  down  into 
the  ground  and  cover  with  soil,  firming  them  with  the 
feet  or  a  roller.  In  cultivating,  the  soil  should  be 
thrown  towards  the  tops,  as  the  white  stems  are 
usually  sought  as  an  indication  of  mildness.  The 
crop  will  be  in  condition  to  use  in  from  three  to 
four  weeks,  and  may  be  made  to  last  until  small 

Early  Onions  J 

seed   Onions  are   to   be    had.       Tops    or  multipliers 
may  also  be  used  for  the  early  crop. 

In  growing  Onions  from  seed,  it  is  only  necessary  to  say 
that  the  seed  should  be  in  the  ground  very  early  in  order 
that  the  bulbs  make  their  growth  before  the  extreme  hot 
weather  of  August,  when,  for  want  of  moisture  and  be- 
cause of  the  heat,  the  bulbs  will  ripen  up  while  small. 
Early  in  April,  in  New  York,  if  the  ground  is  in  condition, 
the  seed  should  be  sown  thickly  in  drills  from  12  to  16  inches 
apart,  and  the  ground  above  the  seeds  well  firmed.  Good 
cultivation  and  constant  weeding  is  the  price  of  a  good  crop 


ONION— PALMS  163 

of  Onions.  In  cultivating  and  hoeing,  the  soil  should  be 
kept  away  from  the  rows,  not  covering  the  growing  bulbs, 
but  allowing  them  to  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
When  the  crop  is  ready  to  be  harvested,  the  bulbs  may 
be  pulled  or  cultivated  up,  left  to  dry  in  double  rows  for 
several  days,  the  tops  and  roots  taken  off,  and  the  bulbs 
stored  in  a  dry  place.  Later  in  the  season  they  may  be 
allowed  to  freeze,  covering  with  chaff  or  straw  to  hold  them 
frozen,  and  kept  until  early  spring;  but  this  method  is 
usually  unsafe  with  beginners,  and  always  so  in  a  changeable 
climate.  Onion  seed  should  always  be  fresh  when  sown  — 
preferably  of  the  last  year's  crop.  One  ounce  of  Onion 
seed  will  sow  100  feet  of  drill. 

One  of  the  recent  methods  of  obtaining  extra  large  bulbs 
from  seed  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  a  hotbed  in  February  or 
early  March,  and  transplant  to  the  open  ground  in  April. 

The  Danvers,  Prizetaker,  Globe  and  Wethersfield  are 
favorite  varieties,  with  the  addition  of  White  Queen  or 
Barletta  for  pickling. 

Oxalis.  A  number  of  hardy  species  of  this 
are  excellent  plants  for  rockwork  and  edging.  The  green- 
house species  are  very  showy,  growing  without  extra  care, 
and  blooming  freely  through  the  late  winter  and  spring 
months;  these  are  mostly  increased  by  bulbs,  a  few  by  divi- 
sion of  the  root.  0.  molacea  is  one  of  the  commonest  of 
house -plants.  Give  a  sunny  window,  for  the  flowers  open 
only  in  sun  or  very  bright  light.  The  bulbous  kinds  are 
treated  as  recommended  for  Bulbs,  except  that  the  bulbs 
must  not  freeze. 

Palms.  No  more  graceful  plant  for  room 
decoration  can  be  found  than  a  well -grown  specimen  of 
some  species  of  Palms.  Most  Palms  are  well  adapted  for 
this  purpose  when  small,  and  as  the  growth  is  usually  very 
slow,  a  plant  may  be  used  for  many  years.  Again,  the 
plants  thrive  better  in  partial  shade.  They  may  be  grown 
in  a  sitting  or  drawing-room  more  satisfactorily  than  most 


164 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


house -plants.  One  of  the  frequent  causes  of  failure  in  the 
culture  of  the  Palm  is  the  over -potting  and  subsequent  over- 
watering.  A  Palm  should  not  be  repotted  until  the  mass  of 
roots  fills  the  soil;  then  a  pot  only  a  size 
larger  should  be  used.  Use  ample  drain- 
age in  the  bottom  to  carry  off  excess  of 
water.  Although  the  plants  need  a  moist 
soil,  water  standing  at  their  roots  proves 
injurious.  A  soil  composed  of  well  rotted 
sod,  leaf -mold  and  a  little  sand  will  meet 
their  requirements.  Among  the  best  paims 

Palms   for    house    culture    are    Arecas, 

Cocos  Weddelliana,  Latania,  Kentia, 
Chameerops  and  Phoenix.  Cycas  may 
also  be  regarded  as  a  Palm. 

The  date  Palm  may  be  grown  from 
seed  of  the  common  commercial  date. 
Seed  of  the  other  varieties  may  be  pur- 
chased from  leading  seedsmen,  but,  as 
the  seed  germinates  only  under  favor- 
able conditions,  and  the  Palm  is  a  very 
slow-growing  plant  while  young,  the 
best  plan  is  to  purchase  the  plants  from 
a  dealer  when  wanted.  When  the 
plants  become  weak  or  diseased,  take  them  to  a  florist  for 
treatment  and  recuperation. 

Pandanus,  or    SCREW   PINE.      The    Pandanus 

utilis  and  P.  Veitcliii  are  exceedingly  ornamental,  and  are 
well  adapted  to  house  culture.  The  singular  habit  of 
growth,  bright,  glossy  leaves,  and  the  ability  to  withstand 
the  dust  and  shade  of  a  dwelling  room,  make  them  a  de- 
sirable addition  to  the  house  collection.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  the  offsets  or  young  plants  that  grow  around  the 
base  of  the  trunk;  or  they  may  be  increased  by  seed.  If  by 
the  former  method,  the  offsets  should  be  cut  off  and  set  in 
sand,  at  a  temperature  of  65°  or  70°.  The  cuttings  root 


A  table  Palm 


PANDANUS— PARIS    GREEN  165 

• 

slowly  and  the  plants  for  a  time  make  a  very  slow  growth. 
The  general  cultural  treatment  is  that  of  palms,  which  see. 

Pansy  is  without  doubt  the  most  popular  spring 
flower  in  cultivation.  The  strains  of  seed  are  many,  each 
containing  great  possibilities.  The  culture  is  simple  and 
the  results  are  sure.  Seed  sown  in  August  or  September,  in 
boxes  or  a  frame,  will  make  plants  large  enough  to  reset 
in  November  and  bloom  the  following  March ;  or  they  may 
be  left  until  March  in  open  seed-beds  before  setting  out. 
Also,  if  they  are  sown  very  thinly  in  the  frames  they  may 
remain  undisturbed  through  the  winter,  blooming  very  early 
the  following  spring.  The  frame 
should  be  protected  by  mats,  boards 
or  other  covering  through  the  severe 
cold,  and  as  the  sun  gains  strength, 
care  should  be  taken  to  keep  them 
from  heaving  by  alternate  thawing 
and  freezing.  Seed  sown  in  boxes 
in  January  or  February  will  make 
fine  blooming  plants  by  April,  tak- 
ing the  place  of  those  blooming  Pansies 
earlier. 

The  requisites  for  satisfactory  Pansy  culture  are  rich, 
moist,  cool  soil,  protection  from  the  noonday  sun,  and  atten- 
tion to  keeping  them  from  going  to  seed.  As  the  ground 
becomes  warm  a  mulch  of  leaf-mold  or  other  light  mate- 
rial should  be  spread  over  the  bed  to  retain  moisture 
and  exclude  heat.  Spring  and  fall  give  the  best  bloom. 

Paris  Green  is  the  leading  arsenical  insecti- 
cide. It  is  usually  applied  in  a  water  spray,  at  the  rate  of 
1  pound  of  the  poison  to  150  to  200  gallons  of  water.  Add  % 
pound  of  lime  to  prevent  injury  to  foliage.  Potatoes  will 
usually  stand  a  stronger  mixture  ;  peaches  and  some  other 
plants  do  not  need  one  so  strong.  Make  the  Paris  Green  into 
a  paste  with  water  before  adding  it  to  the  200  gallons,  that  it 
may  mix  better.  Paris  Green  may  be  added  to  Bordeaux 


166       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

mixture  with  excellent  results,  counting  the  Bordeaux  as  if 
it  were  so  much  water;  in  this  case  it  will  not  be  neces- 
sary to  add  lime  to  the  Paris  Green.  The  Paris  Green  is 
used  only  for  chewing  insects,  as  worms  and  beetles.  Lon- 
don purple  is  used  in  the  same  way. 

Parsley.      The   curled   Parsley  is   used  almost 
exclusively  as  a  garnish  for  meats  and  salads,  although  the 
flavor  in  soups  is  fine.      The  seed  is  slow  to  germinate,  and 
often  the  second  or  third  sowing  is  made,  thinking  the  first 
is  a  failure ;  but  usually  after  what  would  seem 
a  long  time  the   young   plants  will  be    seen. 
When  sown  in  the  open  ground,  it  should  be 
thinned  to  stand  3  or  4  inches  in  the  row,  the 
Parsley  grown  in  a  box    rows  being  10  to  12  inches  apart.     A  few  plants 
in  a  border  will  give  a  supply  for  a  large  family, 
and  with  a  little  protection  will  live  over  winter.     Roots 
may  be  lifted  in  the  fall,  put  into  boxes  or  old  cans,  and 
grown  in  a  sunny  window  for  winter  use. 

Parsnips  are  one  of  the  vegetables  that  are 
the  better  for  the  winter's  freeze,  although  they  are  of  good 
quality  if  taken  up  after  the  fall  frosts  and  packed  in  soil, 
sand  or  moss  in  the  cellar.  The  seed,  which  must  be  not 
over  one  year  old,  should  be  sown  as  early  as  possible  in 
well  prepared  soil,  firmed  with  the  feet  or  roller.  As  the 
seed  germinates  rather  slowly  the  ground  often  becomes 
crusted  or  baked  over  the  seeds,  in  which  case  it  should  be 
broken  and  fined  with  a  garden  rake.  This  operation  often 
means  the  success  of  the  crop.  Kadish  or  cabbage  seeds 
may  be  sown  with  the  Parsnip  seed  to  mark  the  row  and 
break  the  crust.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  200  feet  of 
drill.  Thin  to  6  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

Pea.  Who  does  not  long  for  the  time  when 
early  Peas  are  fit  to  use  ?  And  how  many  know  the  great 
difference  in  quality  between  the  smooth  and  the  wrinkled 
Peas?  The  first  are  a  little  the  earliest  to  be  planted  and 


PEA— PEACH  167 

to  become  fit  for  use,  and  on  that  account  should  be 
planted  in  a  small  way.  For  the  kitchen -garden  the  dwarf 
and  half-dwarf  varieties  are  the  best,  as  the  tall  kinds  will 
need  brush  or  wire  to  support  them,  causing  considerable 
trouble  and  labor  and  not  being  as  neat  in  appearance.  The 
tall  varieties  yield  a  larger  crop  than  the  dwarfs,  but  as  the 
rows  must  be  made  from  3  to  5  feet  apart,  the  dwarf  ones, 
which  are  planted  only  6  to  8  inches  apart,  will  give  as 
large  a  yield  on  the  same  area.  Always  plant  double  rows 
of  the  tall  varieties:  that  is,  two  rows  from  4  to  6  inches 
apart,  with  the  brush  or  wire  between,  the  double  rows 
being  from  3  to  5  feet  apart,  according  to  varieties.  The 
dwarf  varieties  should  be  planted  four  rows  in  a  block,  each 
row  being  only  6  or  8  inches  apart.  The  Peas  on  the  two 
center  rows  may  be  picked  from  the  outside.  Leave  a 
space  of  2  feet  and  plant  the  same.  At  the  time  of  the  first 
planting  only  the  smooth  varieties  should  be  sown,  but  by 
the  middle  of  April  in  New  York  the  ground  will  be  warm 
and  dry  enough  for  the  wrinkled  sorts.  A  succession  should 
be  sown  that  will  come  to  maturity  one  after  the  other,  ex- 
tending the  season  six  or  eight  weeks.  If  a  further  supply 
is  wanted  the  early  quick-maturing  varieties  may  be  sown 
in  August,  usually  giving  a  fair  crop  of  Peas  in  September 
and  early  October.  In  the  hot  weather  of  midsummer  they 
often  do  not  thrive  so  well.  One  quart  of  seed  will  plant 
about  100  feet  of  drill. 

Pea,  Everlasting  (Lathyrus  latifolius).  These 
Peas  do  not  have  the  colors  or  fragrance  of  the  Sweet  Pea, 
but  are  fine  for  planting  against  rocks,  stumps,  or  fences. 
They  bloom  through  a  long  season,  and,  being  perfectly 
hardy,  will  live  for  years.  Height  2  to  6  feet.  Raised  from 
seeds  or  from  cuttings,  usually  the  former.  Keep  the  seed 
pods  picked  off  to  lengthen  period  of  bloom. 

Pea,  Sweet.     See  Sweet  Pea. 

Peach.     Given   the    proper   exposure,  Peaches 


168  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

may  be  fruited  in  many  sections  where  now  it  is  thought 
impossible  to  have  a  crop.  It  is  usually  the  practice  of  the 
amateur  to  set  Peach  trees  in  the  shelter  of  some  building, 
exposed  on  the  south  or  east  to  the  sun,  and  "in  a  pocket" 
as  regards  winds.  This  should  be  reversed,  except  in  the 
close  vicinity  of  large  bodies  of  water.  The  fruit  buds  of 
Peaches  will  stand  very  cold  weather  when  perfectly  dor- 
mant, often  as  low  as  12°  or  18°  below  zero  in  New 
York;  but  if  the  buds  once  become  swollen,  comparatively 
light  freezing  will  destroy  the  crop.  Therefore,  if  the  trees 
be  set  on  elevations  where  a  constant  air  drainage  may  be 
obtained,  sheltered,  if  at  all,  on  the  south 
and  east,  from  the  warming  influence  of 
the  sun,  the  buds  will  remain  dormant 
until  the  ground  becomes  warm,  and  the 
chances  of  a  failure  will  be  lessened.  This 
Peaches"  advice  applies  mostly  to  interior  sections. 

A  well  drained,  sandy  loam  or  gravelly  soil 
suits  the  Peach  better  than  a  heavy  soil ;  but  if  the  heavier 
soil  is  well  drained,  good  crops  may  be  obtained. 

Peaches  are  short-lived  at  best,  and  one  should  be  satis- 
fied with  three  or  four  crops  from  each  tree.  They  bear 
young,  usually  a  partial  crop  the  third  year.  If  a  crop  may 
be  had  every  other  year  until  the  trees  are  eight  or  ten 
years  old,  they  will  have  well  repaid  the  effort  of  cultivation. 
But  they  often  bear  twice  this  long.  Young  trees  may  be 
set  every  four  or  five  years  to  replace  older  ones,  thus 
having  trees  at  a  bearing  age  at  all  times  on  a  small  place. 
Trees  should  be  set  14  to  18  feet  apart  each  way.  A  good 
selection  of  varieties  for  home  use  would  be  Early  York> 
Alexander,  Hale  Early,  Mountain  Rose,  Early  Crawford, 
Wheatland,  Stump,  Elberta,  Stevens,  Oldmixon,  Late  Craw~ 
ford  and  Smock. 

Peach  trees  are  always  bought  when  they  are  one  year 
old,  that  is,  one  year  from  the  bud.  For  example,  the  bud 
is  set  in  the  fall  of  1898.  It  remains  dormant  until  the 


PEACH— PEAR  169 

spring  of  1899,  when  it  pushes  into  vigorous  growth;  and  in 
the  fall  of  1899  the  tree  is  ready  for  sale.  Peach  trees 
which  are  more  than  a  year  old  are  scarcely  worth  the 
buying.  It  is  a  common  practice,  when  setting  Peach  trees, 
to  prune  them  back  to  a  whip,  leaving  a  stub  bearing  not 
more  than  one  bud  where  each  branch  is  cut  off. 

The  three  great  enemies  of  the  Peach  are  the  borer,  the 
yellows  and  the  curculio. 

The  borer  is  best  handled  by  digging  it  out  every  spring 
and  fall.  Trees  which  are  attacked  by  the  borer  have  an 
exudation  of  gum  about  the  crown.  If  the  borers  are  dug 
out  twice  a  year  they  will  not  get  sufficient  start  to  make 
the  operation  very  laborious.  It  is  the  only  sure  way. 

The  yellows  is  a  communicable  disease,  the  cause  of 
which  is  not  definitely  known.  It  shows  itself  in  the  fruit 
ripening  prematurely,  with  distinct  red  spots  which  extend 
through  the  flesh,  and  later  by  the  throwing  out  of  fine, 
branching,  twiggy  tufts  along  the  main  branches.  The 
only  treatment  is  to  pull  out  the  trees  and  burn  them. 
Other  trees  may  be  set  in  the  same  places. 

For  a  discussion  of  curculio,  see  the  remarks  under 
Plum.  » 

Pear.  No  fruit  plantation  should  be  consid- 
ered complete  without  trees  of  various  kinds  of  Pears,  ripen- 
ing fruits  from  early  in  August  till  winter.  The  late  varie- 
ties are  generally  good  keepers,  and  extend  the  season  into 
February,  thus  supplying  fruit  for  six  or  seven  months. 

As  the  Pear  grows  to  perfection  on  quince,  the  dwarf  tree 
is  peculiarly  adapted  to  planting  on  small  home  grounds, 
and  is  often  used  as  a  boundary  plant,  or  to  serve  the  pur- 
pose of  a  screen.  These  dwarf  trees  should  be  set  deep — 4 
to  6  inches  below  the  union  —  to  prevent  the  stock  from 
growing.  Dwarf  trees  may  be  set  as  near  together  as  10 
to  16  feet,  while  the  standard  or  tall -growing  Pears  should 
be  set  18  to  25  feet  apart.  Trees  are  planted  when  two  or 
three  years  old. 


170  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  Pear  thrives  on  clay  soil,  if  well  underdrained,  and 
for  this  reason  may  succeed  in  places  where  other  fruits 
might  fail.  A  good,  steady  growth  should  be  maintained, 
but  the  use  of  nitrogenous  manures  should  be  avoided,  as 
they  tend  to  make  a  rank  growth  and  invite  attacks  of  Pear 
blight,  which  is  the  worst  enemy  of  the  Pear. 
For  summer  fruits  :  Osband's  Summer,  Bart- 
lett,  Clapp  and  Manning  Elizabeth  are  among 
the  best.  For  autumn  :  Duchess,  Flemish 
Beauty,  Bosc,  Louise  Bonne,  Seckel  and 
Sheldon.  For  winter  fruit :  Anjou,  Clairgeau, 
Lawrence  and  Winter  Nelis  are  excellent. 
Kieffer  is  an  excellent  commercial  fruit,  but  it 
is  too  poor  to  be  given  space  in  the  home 
Bartiett  Pear's  ground  except  as  an  ornamental  tree. 

Of  the  Pear  blight,  Duggar  writes  as  follows : 
"REMEDIES,  (a)  The  knife  and  the  saw.— With  a  dis- 
ease working  as  this  does,  it  is  very  evident  that  there  is 
no  chance  either  for  cure  or  prevention  by  means  of  spray- 
ing. The  heroic  treatment  of  the  knife  and  saw  must  be 
adopted  and  vigorously  pursued,  as  has  been  claimed  from 
the  beginning.  The  blackened  leaves  alo^e  must  not 
serve  as  signs  of  the  diseased  area,  but  one  must  examine 
carefully  the  branches  and  remove  them  6  inches  or  more 
below  the  lowest  discolorations.  Often  before  cutting, 
pruners  slice  the  bark  downward  to  see  where  the  injury 
ends.  This  should  not  be  done;  it  is  better  to  be  sure  that 
you  are  below  the  infected  area,  and  run  no  such  risk  of 
infecting  anew  the  tissues  below.  The  cut  surfaces  of 
larger  limbs  and  branches  should  be  painted  for  protection 
against  wound  rots. 

"(&)  When  to  cut. — Cutting  out  diseased  portions 
should  be  done  whenever  the  disease  is  evident.  This  may 
check  the  injuries  temporarily;  but  it  has  been  shown  that 
much  can  be  done  in  the  autumn  to  prevent  the  establish- 
ment of  the  disease  the  following  spring.  It  has  long  been 


PEAR    BLIGHT— PELARGONIUM  171 

known  that  the  disease  may  pass  the  winter  in  the  branches 
by  a  slow  growth  in  the  neighborhood  of  late  infections. 
Thorough  work  of  eradication  should  especially  be  per- 
formed after  the  season  of  growth.  Then  cut  out  every 
diseased  branch  and  burn,  so  that  in  the  spring  when  the 
succulent  growth  begins  again,  there  will  be  few  places  in 
which  insects  may  come  in  contact  with  the  bacterial 
exudations. 

"(c)  Conditions  Javoring  the  disease. — The  knife  is  our 
only  hope  of  extermination;  but  there  are  undoubtedly  con- 
ditions which  favor  the  disease.  In  a  succulent,  rapidly 
growing  tree  the  bacteria  find  more  favorable  conditions  for 
their  development  than  in  one  which  grows  slowly,  yet  with 
sufficient  vigor.  For  this  reason,  too  much  nitrogenous 
manure  is  dangerous;  and,  for  the  same  reason,  a  succu- 
lent growth  induced  by  severe  pruning  should  be  avoided." 

Pelargoniums.     Here  belong  the  plants  known 
as  Geraniums  —  the  most   satisfactory  of  house -plants,  and 
extensively  used  as  bedding  plants.     No  plants  will  give 
better  returns  in  leaf  and  flower ;  and  these  features,  added 
to  the  ease  of  propagation,   make  them  general  favorites. 
Cuttings  of  partially  ripened  wood  root  very  easily, 
grow  to  blooming  size  in  a  short  time,  and,  either 
planted  out  or  grown  in  a  pot,  make  fine  decora- 
tions.      The  common   or  "Fish"   Geraniums    are 
much  more    satisfactory    when    not   more  than  a 
year  old.     Take  cuttings  from  the  old  plants  at 
least  once  a  year.      In  four   or   five  months  the 
young    plants    begin    to  bloom.      Plants  may  be 
taken  up  from  the  garden  and    potted,  but  they     Pelargonium,  or 
rarely  give  as  much  satisfaction  as  young,  vigorous 
subjects.     Eepot  frequently  until  they  are  in  4-  to  5 -inch 
pots;  then  let  them  bloom. 

The  show  Pelargoniums  are  those  commonly  known  as 
Lady  Washington  Geraniums.  These  have  but  one  period 
of  bloom,  usually  in  April,  but  they  make  up  in  size  and 


172  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

coloring.  This  section  is  more  difficult  to  manage  as  a 
house  plant  than  the  common  Geranium,  needing  more  di- 
rect light  to  keep  it  stocky,  and  being  troubled  by  insects. 
Still,  all  the  trouble  taken  to  grow  them  will  be  well  repaid 
by  the  handsome  blossoms.  Take  cuttings  in  late  spring, 
after  flowering,  and  blooming  plants  may  be  had  the  fol- 
lowing year.  Good  results  are  sometimes  secured  by  keep- 
ing these  plants  two  or  three  years.  Cut  back  after  each 
blooming  season. 

For  house  culture  the  Geraniums  need  a  rich,  fibrous 
loam,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  sand;  good  drainage  is 
also  an  essential. 

Peony.  The  herbaceous  Peony  has  long  had 
a  place  in  the  garden,  and  is  now  in  general  use  as  an  early 
flowering  plant.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  free  from  the 
many  diseases  and  insects  that  attack  so  many  fine  plants. 
The  single  and  semi -double  varieties  are  very  fine,  the 
flowers  becoming  large  as  the  plant  becomes  well  estab- 
lished. The  herbaceous  section  is  readily  increased  by  divis- 
ion. The  tree  Peonies  are  increased  by  grafting.  They  grow 
in  some  cases  to  the  height  of  3  or  more  feet,  and  are  covered 

with    large,    very    double    flowers    of    rich    colors. 

Height  2   to   3    feet. 

Peppers  are  tender  while  young,  although 
they  will  endure  a  heavy  frost  in  the  fall.  Their 
culture  is  that  recommended  for  eggplants.  A  small 
seedsman's  packet  of  seed  will  be  sufficient  for  a  large 
number  of  plants,  say  two  hundred.  The  large  Bell 
Peppers  are  the  mildest,  and  are  used  for  making 
"stuffed  Peppers"  and  other  dishes.  The  small,  hot 
Peppers  are  used  for  seasoning  and  sauces. 

Petunia.  The  improvement  made  in  the  size 
and  markings  of  the  Petunia  has  been  marked  of  late.  Now 
almost  every  shade  of  color  may  be  found,  aside  from  yellow. 
A  bed  of  Petunias  makes  a  mass  of  color  equaled  by  few  other 


PETUNIA— PLUM  173 

flowers.      They  also  make  very  fine  single  plants  for  pots, 

baskets  or  window-boxes,  blooming  freely  through  the  winter, 

and    emitting   a   delicate    fragrance.     The   single   varieties 

grow  freely  from  seed,  but  if  plants  of  one 

special  color  are  wanted  cuttings  should  be 

made.     These  cuttings  root  easily  and  bloom 

early.      Cuttings   will   have  to  be  made  of 

the  double  varieties  to  increase  their  number. 

For   common    Petunias,    sow    seeds   where 

plants  are  to  grow,  in  a  warm,  sunny  place ;  Petunia 

or,  for  earlier  bloom,  seeds  may  be  started 

in  the  house.     Thin  to  8  to  12  inches   apart.     The  season 

of  bloom  is  cut  short  only  by  frost  or  other  causes. 

Phlox.  Both  the  perennial  and  the  annual 
Phloxes  are  most  valuable.  Excepting  the  petunia,  no  plant 
will  give  the  profusion  of  bloom  with  as  little  care  as  the 
annual  Phlox  ( Phlox  Drummondii) .  Masses  of  one  color  or 
of  contrasting  colors  make  very  effective  ribbon  borders  or 
edging  beds.  The  perennial  species  are  very  showy,  having 
almost  as  wide  a  range  of  color  as  the  annuals.  They  grow 
to  the  height  of  3  feet.  They  are  most  effective  in  the  back 
row  of  a  border.  The  perennials  have  been  much  improved 
of  late.  They  are  hardy. 

The  annual  Phlox  is  propagated  by  seed  sown  early  in  the 
spring  in  the  border,  or  in  March  in  boxes  and  transplanted. 
The  perennial  Phlox  is  increased  by  division  of  the  roots, 
the  flowers  being  larger  and  more  highly  colored  by  dividing 
at  least  every  three  years.  The  annual  Phlox  blooms  early, 
and  continues  until  late  in  the  fall.  The  perennial  blooms 
from  July  to  frost. 

Pink.     See  Dianthus  and   Carnation. 

Plum.  Of  Plums  there  are  three  general  or 
common  types:  first,  the  common  Domestica  or  European 
Plum,  which  gives  rise  to  all  the  older  varieties,  like  Lom- 
bard, Bradshaw,  Green  Gage,  the  Prunes,  the  Egg  Plums, 


174       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

the  Damsons,  and  the  like;  second,  the  Japanese  Plums, 
which  have  become  popular  within  the  last  ten  years,  and 
which  are  adapted  to  a  wider  range  of  country  than  the 
Domesticas;  third,  the  native  Plums  of  several  species  or 
types,  which  are  adapted  to  the  plains,  the  middle  and 
southern  states,  where  the  Domestica  Plums  do  not  thrive, 
and  some  kinds  to  the  cold  North. 

Wherever  the  Domestica  and  Japanese  Plums  can  be 
grown,  the  native  Plums  are  not  destined  to  become  popu- 
lar; but  many  of  the  natives  are  much  hardier  than  others, 
and  are  therefore  adapted  to  regions  in  which  the  Domestica 
and  Japanese  are  not  safe.  Others  of  them  are  well  adapted 
to  the  middle  and  southern  states.  The  Domestica  and 
Japanese  Plums  are  considerably  hardier  than  peaches,  but 
not  so  hardy  as  the  apple.  The  northern  limit  of  their  gen- 
eral cultivation  is  the  southern  peninsula  of  Michigan,  cen- 
tral and  southern  Ontario,  central  New  York  and  central 
New  England. 

Plums  thrive  on  a  great  variety  of  soils,  but  they  do 
better,  as  a  rule,  on  those  which  are  rather  heavy  and  have 
a  considerable  content  of  clay.  In  fact,  many  of  the  varie- 
ties will  thrive  on  clay  as  hard  as  that  upon  which  pears 
will  grow.  On  the  other  hand,  they  often  thrive  well  upon 
light,  and  even  almost  sandy  soils. 

The  trees  are  set  when  they  are  two  and  three  years  from 
the  bud.  It  is  preferable  to  have  Plum  trees  on  stocks  of 
the  same  species,  but  it  is  not  always  possible  to  secure  them 
at  the  nurseries.  In  the  South,  Plums  are  worked  mostly  on 
peach  roots,  and  these  make  excellent  trees  where  the 
climate  is  not  too  severe,  and  especially  upon  the  lighter 
lands  on  which  they  are  planted  in  the  South.  In  the  North 
the  larger  part  of  the  Plum  stocks  are  grown  on  the 
Myrobalan  Plum  roots.  This  Myrobalan  is  an  Old  World 
species  of  Plum,  of  smaller  growth  than  the  Domestica. 
This  stock,  therefore,  tends  to  dwarf  the  tree,  and  it  is 
also  likely  to  throw  up  sprouts  from  the  roots.  Plum  trees 


PLUM  175 

are  set  from  12  to  18  feet  apart.  Many  growers  like  to  set 
them  8  feet  apart  in  rows,  and  have  the  rows  from  16  to  20 
feet  apart. 

Plums  are  pruned  much  the  same  as  apples  and 
pears.  That  is,  the  top  is  thinned  out  from  year  to  year, 
and  all  superfluous  branches  and  broken  or  diseased  wood 
are  removed.  If  the  soil  is  very  strong  and  the  trees  are 
close  together,  it  may  be  well  to  head  them  in  a  little  each 
year,  especially  those  varieties  which  grow  very  strong 
and  robust. 

The  varieties  of  Plums  are  very  'numerous.  Of  the 
Domestica  or  European  type,  some  of  the  best  are  Brad- 
shaw,  Imperial  Gage,  Jefferson,  Reine  Claude,  Coe  Golden 
Drop,  Quackenbos,  Fellemburg,  German  Prune,  Copper. 
The  Lombard  is  the  most  cosmopolitan  variety,  and  is 
always  sure  to  give  a  crop,  but  the  quality  is  not  so  good  as 
that  of  the  others  mentioned.  For 
culinary  purposes,  some  of  the  Dam- 
sons, which  are  very  small-fruited 
varieties,  are  excellent.  Of  Japanese 
Plums,  the  best  so  far  tested  for  the 
North  are  Bed  June,  Abundance,  Bur- 
bank,  Chabot  and  Satsuma.  For  a 
very  early  cherry-like  Plum  for  home 
use,  the  Berger  is  excellent.  Of  the 
native  Plums,  the  most  cosmopolitan 
variety  is  Wild  Goose.  Excellent 

varieties  are  Weaver,  Quaker,  Forest  Garden,  Wayland,  and 
others. 

There  are  four  leading  difficulties  in  the  growing  of  Plums 
—  leaf  blight,  fruit  rot,  black  knot,  and  curculio. 

The  leaf  blight  usually  comes  on  about  midsummer,  the 
leaves  becoming  spotted  and  dropping  off.  The  remedy  for 
this  trouble  is  to  spray  thoroughly  with  Bordeaux  mixture, 
beginning  soon  after  the  fruits  have  set,  and  before  the 
trouble  begins  to  show. 


176  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  fruit  rot  may  be  prevented  by  the  same  means  —  that 
is,  by  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  It  is  usually  best 
to  begin  just  after  the  fruits  are  well  set.  A  very  important 
consideration  in  the  checking  of  this  disease  is  to  thin  the 
fruit  so  that  it  does  not  hang  in  clusters.  If  one  fruit  touches 
another,  the  rot  spreads  from  fruit  to  fruit  in  spite  of  the 
spraying.  Some  varieties,  like  Lombard  and  Abundance, 
are  susceptible  to  this  injury. 

The  black  knot  is  best  kept  in  check  by  cutting  out  the 
knots  whenever  they  can  be  seen,  and  burning  them.  As 
soon  as  the  leaves  drop,  the  orchard  should  be  gone  over 
and  all  knots  taken  out.  Orchards  which  are  thoroughly 
sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture  for  the  leaf  blight  and  fruit- 
rot  fungus  are  less  liable  to  attacks  of  black  knot. 

The  curculio,  or  the  insect  which  is  the  parent  of  the 
worms  in  the  fruit,  is  the  inveterate  enemy  of  the  Plum  and 
other  stone  fruits.  The  mature  beetle  lays  the  eggs  in  the 
fruits  when  they  are  very  small,  usually  beginning  its  work 
about  as  soon  as  the  flowers  fall.  These  eggs  soon  hatch,  and 
the  little  maggot  bores  into  the  fruit.  Those  fruits  which 
are  attacked  whilst  very  young  ordinarily  fall  from  the  tree, 
but  those  which  are  attacked  when  they  are  half  or  more 
grown  may  adhere  to  the  tree,  but  are  wormy  and  gummy  at 
the  picking  time.  The  mature  beetles  are  sluggish  in  the 
mornings,  and  are  easily  jarred  from  the  trees.  Taking  advan- 
tage of  this  fact,  the  fruit-grower  may  jar  them  into  sheets; 
or,  in  large  orchards,  into  a  large  canvas  hopper,  which  is 
wheeled  from  tree  to  tree  upon  a  wheelbarrow-like  frame,  and 
under  the  apex  of  which  is  a  tin  can  into  which  the  insects 
roll.  There  is  a  slit  or  opening  in  one  side  of  the  hopper, 
which  allows  the  tree  to  stand  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
canvas.  The  operator  then  gives  the  tree  two  or  three  sharp 
jars  with  a  padded  pole  or  mallet.  The  edges  of  the  hopper 
are  then  quickly  shaken  with  the  hands  and  the  insects  roll 
down  into  the  tin  receptacle.  In  this  receptacle  there  is 
kerosene  oil,  or  it  may  be  emptied  from  time  to  time.  Just 


PLUM — PORTULACA  177 

how  long  this  machine  is  to  be  run  in  the  orchard  will  de- 
pend entirely  upon  circumstances.  It  is  advisable  to  use  the 
catcher  soon  after  the  blossoms  fall,  for  the  purpose  of  find- 
ing out  how  abundant  the  insects  are.  If  a  few  insects  are 
caught  upon  each  tree,  there  is  indication  that  there  are 
enough  of  the  pests  to  make  serious  trouble.  If  after  a  few 
days  the  insects  seem  to  have  disappeared,  it  will  not  be 
necessary  to  continue  the  hunt.  In  some  years,  especially  in 
those  succeeding  a  very  heavy  crop,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
run  the  curculio- catcher  every  morning  for  four  or  five 
weeks  ;  but,  as  a  rule,  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  use  it 
oftener  than  two  or  three  times  a  week  during  that  season ; 
and  sometimes  the  season  may  be  shortened  by  one-half. 
The  insects  fall  most  readily  when  the  weather  is  cool,  and 
it,  therefore,  is  best  to  get  through  the  whole  orchard,  if 
possible,  before  noon.  Upon  cloudy  days,  however,  the 
insects  may  be  caught  all  day.  A  smart  man  can  attend  to 
300  to  400  full -bearing  trees  in  six  hours  if  the  ground  has 
been  well  rolled  or  firmed,  as  it  should  be  before  the 
bugging  operation  begins.  But  whether  the  operation  is 
troublesome  or  not,  it  is  the  price  of  Plums,  and  the  grower 
must  not  expect  to  succeed  long  without  it.  The  same 
treatment  is  essential  to  the  saving  of  peaches  and  rarely, 
also,  of  sour  cherries. 

Poppy.  These  showy  annuals  and  perennials 
should  be  more  generally  grown.  Nothing  will  lighten  up 
a  corner  better  than  the  hardy  oriental  Poppy,  or  the 
solid  crimson  or  scarlet  annual  Poppies.  All  of  the  varie- 
ties grow  readily  from  seed,  which,  in  most  cases,  should 
be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom.  The  seeds  of  the 
oriental  and  the  Iceland  Poppy  may  be  sown  in  pots,  the 
plants  wintered  over  in  a  frame  and  carefully  planted 
out  the  second  spring.  The  Poppy  is  very  impatient  of 
root  disturbance,  however,  and  the  safest  method  is  to  sow 
the  seed  where  wanted. 

Portulaca,  or  ROSE  Moss.     Brilliant  little  ten- 


178  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

der  annuals,  low-growing  and  sun-loving.  They  usually 
seed  themselves,  and  once  established  will  continue  for 
years.  Many  of  the  varieties  will  produce  a  good  percent- 
age of  flowers  as  double  as  roses  and  of  many  colors. 
Seed  should  be  sown  where  wanted.  They  bloom  freely  in 
light,  sandy  soil  in  the  full  blaze  of  the  sun. 

Potato.  The  common  practice  of  growing 
Potatoes  in  ridges  or  elevated  hills  is  wrong,  unless  the  soil 
is  so  wet  that  this  practice  is  necessary  to  insure  proper 
drainage;  but  in  this  case  the  land  is  not  adapted  to  the 
growing  of  Potatoes.  If  the  land  is  elevated  into  ridges  or 
hills,  there  is  a  great  loss  of  moisture  by  means  of  evapo- 
ration. During  the  last  cultivating  the  Potatoes  may  be 
hilled  up  slightly  in  order  to  cover  the  tubers ;  but  the  hills 
should  not  be  made  in  the  beginning.  Land  for 
Potatoes  should  be  rather  loamy  in  character,  and 
ought  to  have  a  liberal  supply  of  potash,  either 
naturally  or  supplied  in  the  drill,  by  means  of  an 
application  of  sulfate  of  potash.  See  that  the 
land  is  deeply  plowed  or  spaded,  so  that  the  roots 
can  penetrate  deeper.  Plant  the  Potatoes  3  or 
4  inches  below  the  natural  surface  of  the  ground. 
It  is  ordinarily  best  to  drop  the  pieces  in  drills. 
A  continuous  drill  maybe  made  by  means  of  drop- 
ping one  piece  every  6  inches,  but  it  is  usually 
thought  best  to  drop  two  pieces  about  every  12 
to  18  inches.  The  drills  are  far  enough  apart  to  allow  good 
cultivation.  If  horse  cultivation  is  used,  the  drills  should 
be  at  least  3  feet  apart. 

Small  Potatoes  are  considered  not  to  be  so  good  as  large 
ones  for  planting.  One  reason  is  because  too  many  sprouts 
arise  from  each  one,  and  these  sprouts  are  apt  to  crowd 
each  other.  The  same  is  true  of  the  tip  end  or  seed  end  of 
the  tuber.  Even  when  it  is  cut  off,  the  eyes  are  so  numer- 
ous that  one  secures  many  weak  shoots  rather  than  two  or 
three  strong  ones.  It  is  ordinarily  best  to  cut  the  Potatoes 


POTATO— POTTING 


179 


Too  deep 


to  two  or  three  eyes,  leaving  as  much  tuber  as  possible 
with  each  piece.  From  seven  to  eight  bushels  of  Potatoes 
are  required  to  plant  an  acre. 

For  a  very  early  crop  in  the  garden,  tubers  are  some- 
times sprouted  in  the  cellar.  When  the 
sprouts  are  4  to  6  inches  high  the  tubers  are 
carefully  planted.  It  is  essential  that  the 
sprouts  are  not  broken  in  the  handling. 
In  this  practice,  also,  the  tubers  are  first 
cut  into  large  pieces,  so  that  they  will  not 
dry  out  too  much. 

The  staple  remedy  for  the  Potato  bug  is 
Paris  green,  1  pound  of  poison  to  150  to  200 
gallons  of  water,  with  a  little  lime  (see 
Paris  Green).  For  the  blight,  spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture,  and  spray  thoroughly. 
Bordeaux  mixture  will  also  keep  away  the 
flea  beetle  to  a  large  extent. 

Potato,  Sweet.    See  Sweet  Potato. 

Potting.  The  operation  of  potting 
a  plant,  while  in  itself  simple,  is  very  often 
associated  with  success  or  failure  in  the 
growth  of  the  plant.  The  first  and  most 
common  reason  of  failure  is  using  too  large 
a  pot  ;  the  second,  imperfect  drainage  ; 
and  the  third,  the  poor  physical  condition 
of  the  soil. 

A  small -rooted  cutting  or  a  feeble  plant 
should   have    a  pot   only  large  enough   to 
hold  soil  sufficient  to  surround  the  roots  to 
the  extent    of    1    or    2   inches.      More  soil 
would   hold  too  much   moisture,    thus   ex- 
cluding the  air.     As  the  plants   grow  and 
the   ball   of  dirt  becomes  well   covered  with   white  roots, 
and   before   these  roots   become    dark   in  color,  the   plant 
should  be  repotted,  using  a  pot  one  size  larger  and  usually 


Plant  too  high 


180 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Too  full 


a  little  richer  soil.     This   operation  should   continue  until 

the  plant  has  made  the  desired  growth.  If  it  is  desired  to 
grow  a  geranium,  fuchsia,  begonia,  or 
plants  of  a  similar  character,  large  enough 
for  a  window  plant — say  to  the  height  or 
breadth  of  two  feet, —  a  6-inch  pot  will  be 
large  enough,  provided  the  soil  is  rich 
enough  to  continue  the  growth  of  the 
plant  while  in  flower.  It  often  happens 
that  pots  of  the  various  sizes  are  not  to 
hand  ;  and  in  case  the  pot  is  too  large,  it 
should  have  the  drainage  increased  until  it 
will  take  up  as  much  room  in  the  bottom  as 
the  pot  is  too  large.  Bear  in  mind  that 
the  soil  should  not  hold  free  water.  After 
the  plant  has  filled  the  pot  with  roots  it 
will  often  be  necessary  to  supply  more  food 
as  the  soil  becomes  exhausted.  This  may 

be  done  by  digging  out  the  top  soil  down 

to  the  young,  white  roots,  replacing  with 

new  soil  in  which  a  little  rotted  manure, 

a  pinch   of   bone-meal    or  other    plant- 
food,  has  been  added.      Liquid  manure 

may    be  used.      This    liquid   manure  is 

made  from  well  rotted   cow-,  horse-,  or 

sheep -manure  thrown  into  a  tub  or  barrel, 

covered  with  water,  and  allowed  to  stand 

until     the   strength    of    the    manure   is 

soaked  out.    This  liquid  should  be  diluted 

before  using  with  clear  water  until  it  has 

the  color  of  weak  coffee.     If  used  with 

judgment,    nothing  will   cause    a  better 

growth  or  a  greater  quantity  of  flowers. 

The  drainage  may  consist  of  any  coarse  material,  such 

as  old  broken  pots,  small  stones,  pieces  of  charcoal,  and  the 

like,  over  which  should  be  placed  small  broken  sod  or  a  little 


Careless 


POTTING — PRIMULAS 


181 


moss  to  keep  the  dirt  from  washing  through  and  eventually 
stopping  up  the  crevices  through  which  the  excess  water 
should  flow. 

A  safe  rule  to  follow  in  first  potting  the  majority  of 
house-plants,  is  to  use  one-third  turf-loam,  one-third  leaf- 
mold  or  decayed  leaves,  and  one-third  sand,  thoroughly 
mixed.  Reduce  the  amount  of  leaf-mold  and  sand  at 
successive  pottings,  adding  a  little  well 
rotted  manure,  until,  when  the  plants  have 
been  potted  in  6 -inch  pots,  at  least  four- 
fifths  of  the  soil  is  turfy  loam.  Press  the 
soil  firmly  in  the  pot  and  around  the  plant. 
Never  fill  the  pot  level  full  of  soil,  else  the 
plant  cannot  be  watered. 

Prickly  Poppies,  or  ARGEMONES, 

are  hardy  annuals,  with  large,  bluish 
striking  foliage  and  yellow  flowers.  They 
are  easily  grown  in  a  warm  soil  and  sunny 
exposure.  Sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants 
are  to  stand.  Thin  to  12  to  18  inches 
apart.  They  grow  2  feet  high. 

Primulas,  or  PRIMROSES,  are   of 

various  kinds.  One  of  them  is  the  Auricula  (which  see). 
Others  are  hardy  border  plants.  The  true  or  English  cow- 
slip is  one  of  these;  also  the  plants  commonly  known  as 
Polyanthus.  Hardy  Primulas  grow  6  to  10  inches  high, 
sending  up  trusses  of  yellow  and  red  flowers  in  early 
spring.  Propagated  by  division,  or  by  seed  sown  a  year 
before  the  plants  are  wanted.  Give  them  rich,  moist  soil. 

The  Primula  of  the  winter-garden  is  mostly  the  P.  Sinensis 
(Chinese  Primrose),  grown  very  extensively  by  florists  as  a 
Christmas  plant.  With  the  exception  of  the  full  double 
varieties,  it  is  usually  grown  from  seed.  The  seed  sown  in 
March  or  April  will  make  large  flowering  plants  by  No- 
vember or  December,  if  the  young  plants  are  shifted  to 
larger  pots  as  needed.  The  seed  should  be  sown  on  the  flat 


182  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

surface  of  the  soil,  composed  of  equal  parts  loam,  leaf-mold 
and  sand.      The  seed  should  be  pressed  down  lightly  and 
the  soil  watered  carefully  to  prevent  the  seed  from  being 
washed  into  the  soil.      Very  fine  sphagnum  moss   may  be 
sifted    over  the    seed,  or   the   box    set  in    a  moist  place, 
where  the  soil  will  remain  wet  until  the  seeds  germinate. 
When  the  plants  are  large  enough  they  should  be  potted  sep- 
arately or  pricked  out  into  shallow  boxes.    Frequent  pottings 
or  transplantings  should  be  given  until  September,  when  they 
should  be  in  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  bloom. 
The  two  essentials   to  successful  growth  through 
the  hot  summer  are  shade  and  moisture.     Height 
6  to  8  inches.     Bloom  in  winter  and  spring. 

At    present   the    "baby    Primrose"     (Primula 
Forbesi)  is  popular.      It  is  treated  in   essentially 
the  same  way  as  the  Sinensis.     All  Primulas 
are  impatient  of  a  dry  atmosphere  and  flue-  / 

improper  way  to  tuating  conditions.  NJ 

make  the  wound  r 

Prince's  Feather.  See  Amarantus. 

Prunes  are  varieties  of  plums  with 
firm,  meaty  flesh,  and  which  readily  make 
dried  fruit.  Some  of  the  Prunes  are  com- 
mercially grown  in  the  East,  but  they  are  Before 
sold  in  the  green  state  as  other  plums  are ; 
and  they  are  adapted  to  all  the  uses  of 
other  plums.  Prunes  are  cultivated  like 

Proper  way        . ,  , 

other  plums. 

Pruning.     There  are  two  general  types  of 

inquiry    connected    with     the    question   of    Pruning: 
First,  that  which  has  to  do  with  the  healing  of  the 
wounds;  and  second,  that  which  has  to  do  with  the 
shaping  of  the  top  and  the  general  welfare  of  the  tree.        Aft 
When    a  limb    is   cut   off,   it   heals   by    being    covered 
with  callus  tissue,  which  grows  out  from  the  cambium  zone 
between  the  bark  and  wood  and  rolls  over  the  face  of  the 


PRUNING 


183 


Before  pruning 


wound.  The  hard  wood  itself  never  heals;  that  is,  the 
cells  do  not  have  the  power  of  making  new  cells ;  therefore 
the  old  wood  is  simply  covered  up,  or  hermetically  sealed  as 
a  cap  is  put  on  a  fruit  jar.  It  is  evi- 
dent, therefore,  that  no  kind  of  dress- 
ing will  hasten  the  healing  of  this 
wound.  The  merit  of  a  dressing  is  to 
keep  the  wound  sound  and  healthy  un- 
til the  callus  naturally  covers  it  over. 
All  things  considered,  the  best  dress- 
ing is  probably  thick  linseed-oil  paint. 
So  far  as  the  wound  is  concerned, 
the  best  time  for  Pruning  is  ordinarily 
in  the  spring,  when  the  vital  activities 
are  beginning;  but  the  season  also  in- 
fluences fruit-bearing  and  wood-mak- 
ing, and  these  questions  should  be  considered.  Those  wounds 
heal  best  which  are  on  strong  main  limbs,  where  there  is 
a  full  flow  of  nutritious  sap.  The  limb  should  be  cut  off  so 
that  the  wound  is  parallel  with  the  trunk  upon  which  it  sits, 
and  close  to  it.  That  is  to  say,  the  longer  the  stub,  the  less 
rapid  in  general  is  the  healing  of  the 
wound.  It  is  the  custom  to  cut  the 
limb  just  outside  the  bulge  at  its  base ; 
but,  in  most  cases,  it  is  better  to  cut 
through  this  bulge,  and  to  have  the 
wound  close  to  the  main  trunk. 

Heavy  Pruning  of  the  top  tends  to 
the  production  of  wood ;  therefore  the 
severe  Pruning  of  orchard  trees,  fol- 
lowing three  or  four  years  of  neglect, 
sets  the  trees  into  heavy  wood-bear- 
ing, and  makes  them  more  vigorous. 
Such  treatment  generally  tends  away 
from  fruit-bearing.  This  heavy  Pruning  is  usually  neces- 
sary in  neglected  orchards,  however,  to  bring  trees  back 


After  pruning 


184 


THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Sickle  saw 


into  shape  and  to  revitalize  them  ;    but  the  best  Pruning- 
treatment  of  an  orchard  is  to  Prune  it  a  little  every  year. 
It  should  be  so  Pruned  that  the  tops  of  the  trees 
>will  be   open,  that  no  two  limbs  will  interfere 
with  each  other,  and  so  that  the  fruit  itself  will 
not  be  so  abundant  as   to   overload  the  tree. 
Pruning  is  a  means  of  thinning.    In  general, 
it  is  best  to  prune  orchard  trees  late  in  win- 
ter or  early  in  spring.   It  is  ordinarily  better, 
however,  to  leave  peaches  and  other  tender  fruits  until 
after  the  buds    have  swollen,   or  even  after  the  flowers 
have  fallen,  in  order  that  one  may  determine  how  much 
they  have  been  injured  by  the  winter.    Grape  vines  should 
be  Pruned  in  winter  or  not  later  (in  New  York)  than  the 
first  of  March.    If  Pruned  later  than  this,  they  may  bleed. 
The  above  remarks  will  apply  to  other  trees  as  well  as  to  k^ea-  ,^n°ges 
fruits.  handle 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  Pruning  has  two  ob- 
jects: one  is  to  merely  trim  the  tree  or  to 
make  it  assume  some  designed  shape;  the 
other  is  to  make  the  tree  more  vigorous  or 
more  fruitful,  or  to  make  some  other  change 
in  its  character.  These  ideals  are  well  illus- 
trated in  the  Pruning  of  ornamental  shrubs. 
If  one  wants  to  have  the  shrubs  sheared  into 
some  particular  shape,  the  shearing 
may  be  done  at  almost  any  time  of  the 
year ;  in  fact,  it  is  better  to  do  it  two 
or  three  times  each  year  in  order  to 
keep  the  trees  trim  and  neat.  If, 
however,  the  desire  is  to  secure  more 
flowers,  the  case  is  a  very  different  one.  Some  shrubs 
and  trees  bear  their  flowers  on  the  wood  of  the  pre- 
ceding year.  Such,  for  example,  are  the  early  flower- 
ing shrubs  like  lilacs  and  the  snowballs.  The  flower 
buds  are  made  the  fall  before.  In  this  case,  Pruning 


Curved  Pruning 
saw 


PRUNING— PUMPKIN 


185 


the  shrub  in  winter  cuts  off  the  flower  buds.     The  ideal  time 
for  Pruning  them,  therefore,  is  just  after  the  flowers  have 
passed.      The   flower    buds  will   form    later   in   the  season 
for  the  production  of  the   flowers    the  following  spring. 
Other   shrubs,    however    (particularly    those   which 
blossom  late  in  the  season),  bear  on  wood    of  the 
current   year's  growth.     That  is,  the  clematis 
blossoms    in    late    summer  and  fall   on    wood 
which    grew    that    same     season.      The 
greater    the    quantity    of    strong    wood 
which    grows    in    any  season,   therefore, 

Waters'  tree  Primer— for  limbs 

the  greater  the  quantity  of  bloom  in  that  out  Of  reach 

season.     With  such  shrubs,  it  is  well  to 

Prune  in  winter  or  early  spring,  and  to  Prune 
rather  heavily.  The  abundance  of  new  shoots 
which  arise  may  be  expected  to  bear  flowers  later 
on  in  the  same  season. 

Following  are  some  shrubs  which,  for  best  re- 
sults in  flower-bearing,  may  be  Pruned  when  dor- 
mant (in  winter) :  camellia,  Jackmani  type  of  clem- 
atis, cornus,  hibiscus  (shrubby),  hydrangea,  many 
loniceras  or  honeysuckles,  philadelphus  or  mock- 
orange,  some  spireas. 

Shrubs  which  may  be  Pruned  when  in  leaf  (just  after 
blooming):  lilac,  deutzia,  weigelas,  exochorda,  spring- 
flowering  loniceras,  tree  peony,  flowering  almond,  some 
spireas  and  viburnums,  wistaria. 

The  mai'ginal  illustrations  show  how  apple, 
pear  and  plum  trees  may  be  Pruned  when  received 
from  the  nursery.  Cut  back  the  roots  to  fresh, 
unbroken  wood. 

Various  kinds  of  useful  tree  Pruners 
are  shown  ,in  the  margins.  See  also 
Scraping. 

f^  1   •  r<  o  7  /      r         An  excellent  Pruning 

Pumpkin.     See  Squash.  AT       saw.  xhebiadeis 

•^ — *•  on  a  swivel 


Pruning  shears 


186  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Pyrethrum.  The  little,  low -growing  yellow - 
foliaged  Feverfew,  called  Golden  Feather,  is  used  exten- 
sively for  edging  and  design  beds.  Propagated  by  cuttings, 
as  are  geraniums. 

The  tall-growing  species  are  very  fine  border  plants, 
being  easy  to  grow  and  having  showy  flowers,  in  colors 
ranging  from  white  through  lilac  to  crimson.  Their  flowers 
appear  in  June  and  last  a  month,  when,  if  the  plants  are 
cut  down,  they  will  flower  again  in  the  fall.  The  Persian  in- 
sect powder  is  made  from  the  dried  flower  heads  of  some 
of  these  species.  Propagated  by  seed  or  division.  Hardy 
and  fine. 

Radishes  should  be  grown  quickly  in  order  to 
have  them  at  their  best.  They  become  tough  and  woody  if 
grown  slowly  or  allowed  to  stay  in  the  ground  too 
long.  A  light  soil,  well  enriched,  will  grow  most  of 
the  early  varieties  to  table  size  in  from  three  to  five 
weeks.  To  have  a  supply  through  the  early  months, 
sowings  should  be  made  every  two  weeks. 
For  summer,  the  large  white  or  gray  varie- 
ties are  best.  The  winter  varieties  may  be 
sown  in  September,  harvested  before  severe 
spring  Radishes  frosts,  and  stored  in  sand  in  a  cool  cellar. 
When  they  are  to  be  used,  if  thrown  into  cold 
water  for  a  short  time  they  will  regain  their  crispness. 
Sow  Eadishes  thickly  in  drills,  12  to  18  inches  apart. 
Thin  as  needed. 

Raspberry.  Both  the  red  and  black  Rasp- 
berries are  essentials  of  a  good  garden.  A  few  plants  of 
each  will  produce  a  supply  of  berries  for  a  family  through 
six  or  eight  weeks,  provided  both  early  and  late  varieties 
are  planted.  A  cool  situation,  soil  that  will  hold  moisture 
without  being  wet,  and  a  thorough  preparation  of  the 
ground,  are  the  conditions  necessary  to  success.  The  black- 
cap Raspberries  should  be  set  3  to  4  feet  apart,  the  rows  6 


RASPBERRY  187 

or   7  feet;  the   red  varieties  3    feet  apart,  the  rows  5  feet 
apart.     Spring  setting  is  usually  preferable. 

As  with  blackberries  and  dewberries,  Raspberries  bear 
on  last  year's  canes,  and  these  canes  bear  but  once. 
Therefore  cut  out  the  old  canes  after  fruiting,  or  before  the 
following  spring,  thus  destroying  such  insects  and  fungi  as 
may  have  lodged  on  them.  New  caues  should  have  grown 
in  the  meantime,  3  to  6  to  a  hill. 

The  first  year  after  the  plants  are  set  the  canes  should 
be  pinched  back  when  they  reach  the  height  of  from  30  to 
36  inches.  If  a  very  vigorous  growth  has  been  made  the 
first  season  two  canes  may  be  left  for  fruiting,  but  in  the 
case  of  weak  growth  only  one  cane  should  be  allowed  to 
fruit.  In  case  of  low-growing  varieties  —  those  that  have 
been  pinched  back  short  —  a  mulch  of  straw  or  grass  around 
the  plants  at  fruiting  time  will  help  to  hold 
the  moisture,  and  also  serve  to  keep  the 
fruits  clean  in  case  of  heavy  rains.  A 
Raspberry  plantation  will  last  three  to  five 
years.  The  black  varieties  are  propagated 
by  layers,  the  tip  of  a  cane  being  laid  in 
the  soil  in  midsummer;  by  fall  the  tip 
will  have  taken  root  and  may  be  separated.  The  red 
varieties  are  propagated  by  suckers  from  the  roots.  In 
nurseries  both  blacks  and  reds  are  often  propagated  by 
means  of  root- cuttings. 

For  red  rust,  pull  out  the  plant,  root  and  branch,  and 
burn  it.  Short  rotations — fruiting  the  plants  only  two  or 
three  years  — and  burning  the  old  canes  and  trimmings, 
will  do  much  to  keep  Raspberry  plantations  healthy.  Spray- 
ing will  have  some  effect  in  combating  anthracnose.  Rasp- 
berries may  be  bent  over  to  the  ground  so  that  the  snow 
will  protect  them,  in  severe  climates. 

Varieties  are  always  changing  in  favor.  Good  black- 
caps are  Gregg,  Ohio,  and  Kansas.  Good  red  and  purple 
sorts  are  Shaffer,  Cuthbert,  Loudon,  and  others. 


188  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Rhododendrons  are  broad -leaved  evergreen 
shrubs  which  require  a  fibrous  or  peaty  soil  and  protection 
from  bleak  winds  and  hot  suns  in  winter.  It  is  well  to 
plant  them  amongst  trees  for  protection.  In  the  North, 
mulch  heavily  with  leaves  in  the  fall.  See  that  the  soil  is 
made  fibrous  with  leaf-mold  or  other  material.  Rhododen- 
drons bloom  from  winter  buds:  therefore  prune  just  after 
flowering,  if  at  all. 

Rhubarb,  or  PIE  PLANT.  This  is  usually  propa- 
gated by  division  of  the  fleshy  roots,  small  pieces  of  which 
will  grow  if  separated  from  the  old,  established  roots  and 
planted  in  rich,  mellow  soil.  Poor  soil  should  be  made  rich 
by  spading  out  at  least  3  feet  of  the  surface,  filling  with 
well  rotted  manure  to  within  1  foot  of  the  level,  throwing  in 
the  top  soil  and  setting  the  roots  with  the  crowns  4  inches 
below  the  surface,  firming  them  with  the  feet.  The  stalks 
should  not  be  cut  for  use  until  the  second  year,  but  the  first, 
as  well  as  the  succeeding  falls,  some  coarse  manure  should 
be  thrown  over  the  crowns,  to  be  forked  or  spaded  in  lightly 
when  spring  opens. 

In  growing  seedling  Rhubarb,  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  a 
coldframe  in  March  or  April,  protected  from  freezing,  and 
in  two  months  the  plants  will  be  ready  to  set  in  rows,  12 
inches  apart.  Give  the  plants  good  cultivation,  and  the 
following  spring  they  may  be  set  in  a  permanent  place.  At 
this  time  the  plants  should  be  set  in  well  prepared  ground, 
at  a  distance  each  way  of  from  4  to  5  feet,  and  treated  as 
those  set  with  pieces  of  roots. 

If  given  good  care  and  well  manured,  the  plants  will  live 
for  years  and  yield  abundantly.  Two  dozen  good  roots  will 
supply  a  large  family. 

Ricinus.     See  Castor  Oil  Plant. 

Roses.  It  seems  to  be  the  first  desire  of  the  home 
maker,  when  he  considers  the  planting  of  his  grounds,  to 
set  out  Roses.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  should  be  one  of 


ROSES  189 

the  last  things  to  do.  Roses  are  essentially  flower  garden 
subjects,  rather  than  lawn  subjects.  That  is  to  say,  the 
flowers  are  their  chief  beauty.  They  have  very  little  to 
commend  them  in  the  way  of  foliage  or  habit,  and  they  are 
inveterately  attacked  by  insects  and  sometimes  by  fungi. 
In  order  to  get  the  best  results  with  Roses,  they  should  be 
placed  in  a  bed  by  themselves,  where  they  can  be  tilled  and 
pruned  and  well  taken  care  of  ;  and  they  should  be  grown 
as  specimen  plants,  as  other  flower  garden  plants  are.  The 
ordinary  garden  Roses  should  rarely  be  grown  in  mixed 
borders  of  shrubbery. 

If  it  is  desired  to  have  Roses  in  mixed  borders,  then  the 
single  and  informal  types  should  be  chosen.  The  best  of  all 
these  is  Rosa  rugosa.  This  has  not  only  at- 
tractive flowers  through  the  greater  part  of 
the  season,  but  it  also  has  very  interesting 
foliage  and  a  striking  habit.  The  great  profu- 
sion of  bristles  and  spines  gives  it  an  indivi- 
dual and  strong  character.  Even  without  the 
flowers,  it  is  valuable  to  add  character  and 
cast  to  a  foliage  mass.  The  foliage  is  not  at- 
tacked by  insects  or  fungi,  but  remains  green 
and  glossy  throughout  the  year.  The  fruit  is 
also  very  large  and  showy,  and  persists  on  Wild  Roses 

bushes    well    through    the    winter.      Some    of 
the  wild  Roses  are  also  very  excellent  for  mixing  into  foliage 
masses,  but,  as  a  rule,  their  foliage  characteristics  are  rather 
weak,  and  they  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  thrips. 

Probably  the  most  extensively  grown  class  of  Roses  is 
the  Remontant  or  Hybrid  Perpetual.  These,  while  not 
constant  bloomers,  are  so  easy  of  culture  and  give  such 
good  returns  for  the  care  and  labor,  that  their  popularity 
grows  each  year.  The  list  of  good  varieties  is  very  exten- 
sive, and  while  a  few,  such  as  General  Jacqueminot,  Paul 
Neyron,  Marshall  P.  Wilder,  Victor  Verdier,  Anne  de  Dies- 
bach,  and  Ulrich  Brunner,  are  seen  in  most  collections,  one 


190  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

cannot  go  far  wrong  in  planting  any  of  the  list.  Two  of  the 
Hybrid  Chinese  Roses  may  go  with  the  Remontants,  having 
the  same  season  of  bloom  and  being  about  as  hardy. 
These  are  Magna  Charta  and  Mme.  Plantier. 

The  next  group  in  point  of  hardiness,  and  superior  to 
the  foregoing  in  continuity  of  bloom,  are  the  Hybrid 
Noisettes,  such  as  Coquette  des  Alpes,  Coquette  des 
Blanches,  andElise  Boelle.  The  blooms  of  these  are  white, 
often  tinted  with  pink,  very  double  and  fragrant. 

The  Hybrid  Tea  section,  containing  Duchess  of  Albany, 
La  France,  Meteor  and  Wootton,  is  very  fine.  These  are 
not  hardy  in  the  North,  but  if  protected  by  a  frame,  or  if 
grown  in  pots,  wintered  in  a  pit,  no  class  of  Roses  will  give 
more  general  satisfaction. 

The  Bourbon  section  contains  three  of  the  best  bedding 
Roses, — Apolline,  Hermosa,  and  Souvenir  de  la  Mal- 
maison.  These  will  bloom  continually  through  the  fall 
months  until  severe  frost,  and  with  a  little  protection  will 
prove  hardy. 

The  Bengal  Roses,  of  which  Agrippina  is  a  leading  va- 
riety, bloom  through  a  long  season,  but  are  not  hardy,  and 
should  be  protected  in  a  pit.  They  also  make  very  fine 
pot -plants. 

The  Moss  Roses  are  well  known,  and  are  desirable  in  a 
general  collection. 

The  'little  Polyantha  Roses,  with  Cecile  Brunner  and 
Clothilde  Soupert  as  two  of  the  best,  are  always  attrac- 
tive, either  when  planted  out  or  grown  in  pots. 

The  climbing  Roses,  which  bloom  later  in  the  season 
than  the  Remontants,  are  very  useful  as  pillar  and  screen 
plants.  The  old  Queen  of  the  Prairies  and  Baltimore  Belle 
are  still  in  favor.  A  newer  and  better  variety  is  the  Crim- 
son Rambler. 

The  Tea  Roses  have  proved  more  disappointing  to  the 
amateur  than  any  other.  No  one  can  resist  the  temptation 
to  try  to  have  a  few  of  these  highly  perfumed,  richly  colored 


ROSES  191 

Roses,  but  unless  one  has  a  conservatory  or  an  especially 
favored  location  in  the  house,  the  results  do  not  pay  for  the 
trouble.  A  few  blooms  may  be  had  outdoors  with  plants  set 
in  the  spring,  but  on  the  approach  of  winter  they  must  be 
taken  up  and  protected  by  more  secure  means  than  is  taken 
with  other  Eoses.  If  potted  and  grown  in  the  house,  they 
are  the  first  plants  to  become  infested  with  red  spider;  or  if 
grown  cool  enough  to  escape  that  pest,  they  will  be  subject 
to  an  attack  of  mildew.  Still,  the  results  are  well  worth 
striving  for,  and  a  few  persons  will  find  the  proper 
conditions  ;  but  the  Tea  Rose  is  essentially  a  florist's 
flower. 

All  Roses  are  heavy  feeders  and  require  rich,  moist 
soil.  A  clay  soil,  if  well  enriched  and  having  perfect 
drainage,  is  ideal.  Pruning  should  be  carefully  done, 
preferably  in  the  spring.  All  weak  growth  should  be 
cut  out  and  the  balance  well  cut  back.  The  flowers 
of  all  Roses,  except  the  Yellow  Persian  and  the 
Harrison's  Yellow,  being  borne  on  the  new  wood,  the  bushes 
should  be  cut  back  half  or  more  of  their  growth. 

In  the  majority  of  cases,  Roses  on  their  own  roots  will 
prove  more  satisfactory  than  budded  stock.  On  own-rooted 
stock,  the  suckers  or  shoots  from  below  the  surface  of  the 
soil  will  be  of  the  same  kind,  whereas  with  budded  Roses 
there  is  danger  of  the  stock  (usually  Manetti  or  Dog  Rose) 
starting  into  growth  and,  not  being  discovered,  outgrowing 
the  bud,  taking  possession,  and  finally  killing  out  the  weaker 
growth.  Still,  if  the  plants  are  set  deep  enough  to  prevent 
adventitious  buds  of  the  stock  from  starting,  there  is  no 
question  that  finer  Roses  may  be  grown  than  from  plants 
on  their  own  roots. 

The  summer  insects  that  trouble  the  Rose  are  best 
treated  by  a  forceful  spray  of  clear  water.  This  should  be 
done  early  in  the  day  and  again  at  evening.  Those  having 
city  water  or  good  spray  pumps  will  find  this  an  easy 
method  of  keeping  Rose  pests  in  check.  Those  without 


192  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

these  facilities  may  use  whale  oil  soap,  fir-tree  oil,  good 
soap  suds,  or  Persian  insect  powder. 

Roses  in  Winter.  Although  the  growing  of 
Eoses  under  glass  is  a  business  which  would  better  be  left 
to  florists,  as  already  said,  the  following  advice  may  be 
useful  to  those  who  have  conservatories  : 

When  growing  forcing  Roses  for  winter  flowers,  florists 
usually  provide  raised  beds,  in  the  best-lighted  houses 
they  have.  The  bottom  of  the  bed  or  bench  is  left  with 
cracks  between  the  boards  for  drainage;  the  cracks  are 
covered  with  inverted  strips  of  sod,  and  the  bench  is  then 
covered  with  four  or  five  inches  of  fresh,  fibrous  loam.  This 
is  made  from  rotted  sods,  with  decayed  manure  incorpo- 
rated at  the  rate  of  about  one  part  in  four.  Sod  from  any 
drained  pasture -land  makes  good  soil.  The  plants  are  set 
on  the  bed  in  the  spring  or  early  summer,  from  12  to  18 
inches  apart,  and  are  grown  there  all  summer. 

During  the  winter  they  are  kept  at  a  temperature  of  58° 
to  60°  at  night,  and  from  5°  to  10°  warmer  during  the  day. 
The  heating  pipes  are  often  run  under  the  benches,  not  be- 
cause the  Rose  likes  bottom  heat,  but  to  economize  space 
and  to  assist  in  drying  out  the  beds  in  case  of  their  becom- 
ing too  wet.  The  greatest  care  is  required  in  watering, 
in  guarding  the  temperature  and  in  ventilation.  Draughts 
result  in  checks  to  the  growth  and  in  mildewed  foliage. 

Dryness  of  the  air,  especially  from  fire  heat,  is  followed 
by  the  appearance  of  the  minute  red  spider  on  the  leaves. 
The  aphis,  or  green  plant  louse,  appears  under  all  condi- 
tions, and  must  be  kept  down  by  syringing  with  tobacco-tea 
or  fumigation  with  tobacco  stems. 

An  effectual  and  preferable  method  now  employed  for 
destroying  the  aphis  is  to  fumigate  with  the  vapor  arising 
from  a  pan  containing  a  gallon  of  water  and  a  pint  of  strong 
extract  of  tobacco.  To  generate  the  vapor,  a  piece  of  red- 
hot  iron  is  dropped  into  the  pan.  From  one  to  three  or  four 
pans  are  required  to  a  house,  according  to  its  size.  For  the 


EOSES    IN    WINTER 


193 


red  spider,  the  chief  means  of  control  is  syringing  with 
either  clear  or  soapy  water.  If  the  plants  are  intelligently 
ventilated  and  given,  at  all  times,  as  much  fresh  air  as  pos- 
sible, the  red  spider  is  less  likely  to  appear.  For  mildew, 
which  is  easily  recognized  by  its  white,  powdery  appear- 
ance on  the  foliage,  accompanied  with  more  or  less  distor- 
tion of  the  leaves,  the  remedy  is  sulfur 
in  some  form  or  other.  The  flowers  of 
sulfur  may  be  dusted  thinly  over  the 
foliage ;  enough  merely  to  slightly  whiten 
the  foliage  is  sufficient.  It  may  be  dusted 
on  from  the  hand  in  a  broadcast  way,  or 
applied  with  a  powder-bellows,  which  is 
a  better  and  less  wasteful  method.  Again, 
a  paint  composed  of  sulfur  and  linseed  oil 
may  be  applied  to  a  portion  of  one  of  the 
steam  or  hot- water  heating  pipes.  The 
fumes  arising  from  this  are  not  agreeable 
to  breathe,  but  fatal  to  mildew.  Again, 
a  little  sulfur  may  be  sprinkled  here  and 
there  on  the  cooler  parts  of  the  green- 
house flue.  Under  no  circumstances, 
however,  ignite  any  sulfur  in  a  greenhouse. 
of  burning  sulfur  is  death  to  plants. 

Propagation. —  The  writer  has  known  women  who  could 
root  Roses  with  the  greatest  ease.  They  would  simply 
break  off  a  branch  of  the  Rose,  insert  it  in  the  flower-bed, 
cover  it  with  a  bell -jar,  and  in  a  few  weeks  they  would  have 
a  strong  plant.  Again  they  would  resort  to  layering;  in 
which  case  a  branch,  notched  half  way  through  on  the  lower 
side,  was  bent  to  the  ground  and  pegged  down  so  that 
the  notched  portion  was  covered  with  a  few  inches  of  soil. 
The  layered  spot  was  watered  from  time  to  time.  After 
three  or  four  weeks  roots  were  sent  forth  from  the  notch  and 
the  branch  or  buds  began  to  grow,  when  it  was  known  that 
the  layer  had  formed  roots. 


A  Hybrid  Perpetual  Rose 


The  vapor 


194 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Vase  of  Roses 


Several  years  ago  a  friend  took  a  cheese -box,  filled  it 
with  sharp  sand  to  the  brim,  supported  it  in  a  tub  of  water 
so  that  the  lower  half  inch  of  the  box  was  immersed.  The 
sand  was  packed  down,  sprinkled,  and  single  - 
joint  Rose  cuttings,  with  a  bud  and  a  leaf 
near  the  top,  were  inserted  almost  their 
whole  length  in  the  sand.  This  was  in  July, 
a  hot  month,  when  it  is  usually  difficult  to 
root  any  kind  of  cutting ;  moreover,  the  box 
stood  on  a  southern  slope,  facing  the  hot 
sun,  without  a  particle  of  shade.  The 
only  attention  given  the  box  was  to  keep 
the  water  high  enough  in  the  tub  to  touch 
the  bottom  of  the  cheese -box.  In  about 
three  weeks  he  took  out  three  or  four  dozen 
of  as  nicely  rooted  cuttings  as  could  have 
been  grown  in  the  greenhouse. 
The  "saucer  system,"  in  which  cuttings  are  inserted  in 
wet  sand  contained  in  a  saucer  an  inch  or  two  deep,  to 
be  exposed  at  all  times  to  the  full  sunshine,  is  of  a  similar 
nature.  The  essentials  are,  to  give  the  cuttings  the  "full 
sun"  and  to  keep  the  sand  saturated  with  water. 

Whatever  method  is  used,  if  cuttings  are  to  be  trans- 
planted after  rooting,  it  is  important  to  pot  them  off  in 
small  pots  as  soon  as  they  have  a  cluster  of  roots  one -half 
inch  or  an  inch  long.  Leaving  them  too  long  in  the  sand 
weakens  the  cutting. 

Sage  is  a  perennial,  but  best  results  are  se- 
cured by  resowing  every  two  or  three  years.  Give  a  warm, 
rich  soil.  Hardy. 

Salpiglossis.  Very  fine  half-hardy  annuals. 
The  flowers,  which  are  borne  in  profusion,  are  of  many 
colors,  and  rival  in  markings  most  other  annuals.  The 
flowers  are  short-lived  if  left  on  the  plant,  but  will  hold 
well  if  cut  and  placed  in  water.  Seed  should  be  sown  in 


SALPIGLOSSIS — SAN    JOSE    SCALE  195 

heat  in  February  or  March,  the  seedlings  grown  along  until 
May,  when  they  may  be  planted  out.     It  is  usually  best  to 
pinch  out  the  centers  of  the  plants  at  this  time 
to  cause    them  to    branch. 

Salsify,  or  VEGETABLE  OYSTER.  Sal- 
sify is  one  of  the  best  of  winter  and  early  spring 
vegetables,  and  should  be  grown  in  every  gar- 
den. It  may  be  cooked  in  several  different 
ways.  The  seed  should  be  sown  as  early  in  the  -^»____  _. 

spring  as  possible.     Handle  the  same  as  pars-   =*^^** J 

nips   in  every  way.      The  roots,   like  parsnips,  Salsify 

are  the  better  for  the  winter  freeze,  but  part 
of  the  crop  should    be    dug  in  the  fall,   and  stored  in   soil 
or  moss  in  a  cellar  for  winter  use. 

Salvia.  The  SCARLET  SALVIA  (or  SAGE)  is  a  well 

known  tender  perennial,  blooming  late  in  the  fall  and  mak- 
ing a  fine  effect  in  beds  or  borders.  It  is  easily  transplanted, 
and  large  plants  removed  to  the  house  continue  in  bloom  for 
some  time.  The  blue  and  white  species  are  both 
desirable  summer -flowering  plants,  and  the  low- 
growing  Silver  Leaf  Sage  is  well  adapted  for  edging. 
Propagated  from  seed,  cuttings,  or  by  division. 
Height  2  to  3  feet. 

San  Jose  Scale  has  now  become  a  wide- 
spread pest.     It  has  been  introduced  into  the  eastern 
'         states  from   the    Pacific  slope.     It   is  a  minute  scale 
saivia      insect  the    size  of   a   small    pinhead,   shield -shaped, 

coccinea 

with  a  raised  center.  There  are  various  native  and 
comparatively  harmless  scales  which  look  very  much  like 
it,  and  an  expert  is  usually  needed  to  distinguish  them. 
The  San  Jose  Scale  can  usually  be  distinguished,  however, 
by  its  very  serious  results.  In  favorable  seasons  it  spreads 
with  enormous  rapidity,  covering  the  branches  of  many 
kinds  of  plants,  sapping  their  juices,  and  either  killing  or 
reducing  them  to  such  a  low  state  of  vitality  as  to  render 


196  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

them  useless ;  or  they  are  killed  by  the  winter.  The  indica- 
tions are  that  the  scale  will  never  be  so  serious  in  the 
moist,  cool  climates  of  the  northeastern  states  as  it  is  in 
the  hotter  and  drier  climates  of  the  West.  It  has  been 
found  by  careful  experiments  that  it  can  be  killed  by  a 
spray  of  kerosene  and  water  (see  Kerosene]  in  a  proportion 
of  one  part  of  kerosene  to  four  or  five  of  water.  This  ma- 
terial is  applied  with  a  mechanical  pump  mixer,  and  the  ap- 
plication should  be  made  on  a  sunny  day  so  that  evaporation 
soon  takes  place.  Spraying  with  kerosene  in  cloudy  weather 
is  very  likely  to  result  in  injury  to  the  plants.  Some  experi- 
menters have  found  crude  petroleum  to  be  a  specific  for 
the  San  Jose"  Scale. 

It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  the  San  Jose  Scale  can  be 
exterminated  any  more  than  the  tent  caterpillar  or  apple 
scab  can.  It  follows,  therefore,  that  wo  should  spray  for 
the  San  Jose  Scale  as  we  do  for  other  pests.  It  is  such  a 
serious  pest,  however,  that  the  state  or  province  should  take 
measures  to  hold  it  in  check.  Some  system  of  inspection 
should  be  inaugurated,  and  it  is  probably  best  that  nursery 
stock  be  fumigated  with  hydrocyanic  gas  before  it  is  sold. 
This  gas  is  exceedingly  poisonous,  however,  and  should 
never  be  handled  by  the  inexperienced.  Whenever  it  is 
used,  it  should  be  under  the  control  of  experts.  Plants  or 
plantations  which  are  badly  infested  with  the  scale  would 
better  be  destroyed. 

Scabiosa.    MOURNING  BRIDE.    A  useful  annual, 

producing  a  profusion  of  bloom  through  the  greater  part  of 
the  summer  if  not  allowed  to  go  to  seed.  The  flowers  range 
in  color  from  white  to  rich  purple,  are  borne  on  long 
stems,  and  are  very  lasting.  The  seed  may  be  sown  where 
the  plants  are  wanted,  or  to  hasten  the  season  of  bloom  may 
be  sown  in  boxes  in  February  and  grown  along  to  be  planted 
out  in  April. 

Scarlet  Runner.     One  of   the  pole  or  running 


SCARLET     RUNNER— SEA -KALE  197 

beans  (Phaseolus  multiflorus] .  It  is  a  great  favorite  with  people 
from  the  Old  World,  especially  English  and  Germans.  This 
bean  is  used  either  as  an  ornamental  vine  for  porches  or 
trellises,  or  as  a  screen  to  hide  unsightly  objects.  The  red 
flowers  are  very  showy,  either  on  the  plant  or  in  bouquets. 
The  green  pods  are  excellent  as  string  beans,  and  the  dried 
beans  are  of  superior  quality.  Seed  should  not  be  sown 
until  the  ground  has  become  thoroughly  warm ;  or  the  plants 
may  be  started  in  the  house. 

Scraping  of  trees  is  rarely  to  be  advised,  except  in 

fruit  plantations.  The  old  and  hanging  bark  on  apple  and 
pear  trees  may  be  taken  off  in  order  to  destroy  the  hiding 
places  of  insects  and  the  breeding  places  of  fungi,  and  also 
to  make  the  plantation  look  more  neat  and  kempt.  Only 
the  loose  outer  bark  should  be  removed,  however.  Trees 
should  not  be  scraped  to  the  quick.  If  there  is  moss  on 
trees,  it  can  be  destroyed  readily  by  a  spray  of  Bordeaux 
mixture. 

A  large  part  of  the  beauty  of  an  ornamental  tree  lies  in 
its  characteristic  bark,  and  it  is  very  rare  that  such  trees 
should  be  scraped. 

Screens.     See  Windbreak. 

Screw  Pine.     See  Pandanus. 

Sea-Kale  shoots  are  very  highly  prized  as  a 
delicacy  when  blanched.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed early  in  the  spring,  plants  transplanted  to  the  garden 
when  from  2  to  3  inches  high,  and  given  high  cultivation 
through  the  season,  being  covered  with  litter  on  the  approach 
of  winter.  The  young  stalks  are  blanched  early  the  following 
spring  by  covering  with  large  pots  or  boxes,  or  by  banking 
with  sand  or  other  clean  material.  The  Dwarf  Green  Scotch, 
Dwarf  Brown,  and  Siberian  are  among  the  leading  varieties. 
Sea-kale  is  eaten  much  as  asparagus  is.  Highly  prized  by 
those  who  know  it. 

Sea-Kale  is  also  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  roots  4  or 


198  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

5  inches  long,  planted  directly  in  the  soil  in  spring.  The 
plant  is  perennial,  and  the  early  shoots  may  be  bleached 
year  after  year. 

Seed    Sowing.      The   general   rule   in   sowing 

seeds  is  to  cover  them  twice  or  three  times  their  thickness. 
This  rule  will  apply  to  the  majority  of  seeds,  but  in  many 
plants  of  a  naturally  short  season  of  bloom  or  growth,  an 
instance  of  which  is  the  sweet  pea,  it  may  be  advisable 
to  sow  the  seed  deeper,  that  the  roots  may  have  sufficient 
moisture  and  be  in  a  cool  temperature  through  the  hot 
summer  months.  Also,  in  sowing  very  minute  seed,  as 
tobacco,  petunia,  begonia,  and  others  of  like  size,  care 
should  be  taken  to  have  them  only  under  the  surface  of  the 
soil,— simply  pressed  down  with  a  smooth  surface  or  allowed 
to  settle  into  the  soil  with  the  soaking  in  of  the  water.  The 
soil  for  all  seeds  should  be  loose  and  porous,  in  order  to 
allow  the -excessive  moisture  to  escape  and  the  warmth  to 
penetrate,  but  should  be  firmed  directly  over  the  seeds  to 
induce  an  upward  flow  of  moisture.  One  of  the  most  com- 
mon mistakes  in  sowing  seed  is  in  sowing  all  kinds  at  the 
same  time  without  regard  to  the  season,  thus  causing  a  fail- 
ure with  some,  while  others  grow  freely.  All  tender  seed 
should  be  sown  only  when  the  ground  has  become  thoroughly 
warm,  while  seeds  of  the  so-called  hardy  plants  may  be 
sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  is  fit  to  work.  A 
few  kinds  of  seed  are  the  better  for  soaking,  especially  such 
as  for  some  reason  have  been  delayed  in  sowing.  Sweet  pea 
seed  is  benefited  by  soaking  if  not  put  into  the  ground  until 
the  soil  is  warm.  Seed  of  canna,  moonflower  and  others 
with  hard  shells  may  be  scraped  until  the  outer  shell  is 
pierced  or  is  very  thin. 

It  is  generally  better  to  buy  garden  seeds  than  to  grow 
them,  for  those  who  make  a  business  of  seed-growing  be- 
come expert  in  the  cultivation  and  selection  of  the  plants. 

Seeds  of  most  plants   should  be  kept  dry  and 


SEEDS — SHADE    TREES  199 

also  rather  cool.  It  is  always  better  to  rely  upon  fresh 
seeds.  Test  them  in  boxes  in  the  house,  if  possible,  before 
planting  them  in  the  open.  If  beans,  peas,  corn  or  other 
Seeds  become  buggy,  pour  a  little  bisulfide  of  carbon  (very 
inflammable)  into  them.  The  material  will  not  injure  the 
Seeds  even  if  poured  on  them.  It  soon  evaporates.  A  tea- 
spoonful  will  kill  the  insects  in  four  quarts  of  Seeds,  if  the 
receptacle  is  tight. 

Most  tree  Seeds  should  be  kept  moist  until  planted. 
They  are  usually  buried  or  kept  in  sand. 

Sensitive  Plant  (Mimosa).  This  curious  plant 
is  often  grown  for  the  amusement  it  affords  by  its  habit  of 
closing  its  leaves  and  dropping  the  leaf -stalk  whenever  the 
plant  is  touched.  Seed  should  be  sown  in  heat  early  in  the 
season,  and  the  plants  grown  in  pots  or  a  protected  border. 
The  seed  is  sold  by  all  seedsmen.  The  plant  grows  readily 
in  a  temperature  suited  to  beans.  It  will  not  stand  frost. 
The  young  plants  are  usually  the  most  sensitive. 

Shade  Trees.  The  best  Shade  Trees  are 
usually  those  which  are  native  to  the  particular  region, 
since  they  are  hardy  and  adapted  to  the  soil  and  other  con- 
ditions. Elms,  maples,  basswoods,  and  the  like,  are  nearly 
always  reliable.  In  regions  in  which  there  are  serious 
insect  enemies  or  fungous  disease/3,  the  trees  which  are 
most  likely  to  be  attacked  may  be  omitted.  For  instance, 
in  parts  of  the  East  the  elm  leaf  beetle  is  a  very  serious 
pest;  and  it  is  a  good  plan  in  such  places  to  plant  other 
trees  than  elms.  Amongst  the  best  exotic  trees  for  shade 
in  the  northern  parts  of  the  country  are  the  Norway  maple, 
European  lindens,  horse  chestnut,  and  the  European  species 
of  elm.  Trees  for  shade  should  ordinarily  be  given  suffi- 
cient room  that  they  may  develop  into  full  size  and 
symmetrical  heads.  The  trees  may  be  planted  as  close  as 
10  or  15  feet  apart  for  temporary  effect ;  but  as  soon  as  they 
begin  to  crowd  they  should  be  thinned. 


200  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Shelter-belts.     See  Windbreak. 

Shrubbery.  Shrubs  have  two  kinds  of  values 
or  uses:  first,  they  are  useful  for  their  own  sakes  or  as 
individual  specimens ;  and  second,  for  use  in  the  making  of 
foliage  masses  or  groups.  Ordinarily  they  are  used  only  for 
the  former  purpose  in  home  grounds ;  but  their  greatest  use 
is,  nevertheless,  in  heavy  masses  about  the  borders  of  the 
place  or  in  the  angles  of  the  building.  That  is  to  say, 
they  should  contribute  to  the  general  design  of  the  place 
or  to  its  pictorial  effect.  If  they  are  planted  in  Shrub- 
beries or  masses,  the  flowers  are  still  as  interesting  and 
as  showy  as  they  are  when  the  bushes  are  planted  alone. 
In  fact,  the  flowers  usually  show  to  better  advantage, 
since  they  have  a  heavy  background  of  foliage.  In  the 
Shrubbery  mass  the  bushes  are  more  easily  cared  for  than 
when  they  are  scattered  as  single  specimens  over  the  lawn. 
The  single  specimen  which  is  irregular,  or  ragged,  or  un- 
tidy, is  an  undesirable  object;  but  such  a  specimen  may 
contribute  an  indispensable  part  to  the  border  mass.  In  the 
border  they  do  not  need  the  attention  to  pruning  that  they 
do  in  the  lawn.  The  main  part  of  the  Shrubbery  mass 
should  be  made  of  the  stronger,  larger  growing  and  coarser 
Shrubs;  and  the  more  delicate  ones,  or  those  with  highly 
colored  leaves  or  showy  flowers,  may  be  placed  near  the 
inner  edge  of  the  plantation.  Shrubs  which  are  valued 
chiefly  for  their  flowers  or  showy  foliage,  as,  for  example, 
the  Hydrangea  paniculata,  may  be  planted  just  in  front  of  a 
bold  Shrubbery  mass,  so  that  they  will  have  a  background 
to  show  off  their  beauties.  Further  directions  for  the  lay- 
out of  the  grounds  will  be  found  under  the  articles  Lawns 
and  Borders. 

It  is  ordinarily  best  to  plow  or  spade  the  entire  area  in 
which  the  Shrubs  are  to  be  set.  For  a  year  or  two  the 
ground  should  be  tilled  between  the  Shrubs,,  either  by  horse 
tools  or  by  hoes  and  rakes.  If  the  place  looks  bare,  seeds  of 


SHRUBBERY  201 

quick -growing  flowers  may  be  scattered  about  the  edges  of 
the  mass.  The  larger  Shrubs,  like  lilacs  and  syringas,  may 
be  set  about  4  feet  apart;  but  the  smaller  ones  should  be 
set  about  2  feet  apart  if  it  is  desired  to  secure  an  immediate 
effect.  If  after  a  few  years  the  mass  becomes  too  crowded, 
some  of  the  specimens  may  be  removed.  Throw  the  Shrubs 
into  an  irregular  plantation,  not  in  rows,  and  make  the 
inner  edge  of  the  mass  more  or  less  undulating  and  broken. 
It  is  a  good  practice  to  mulch  the  plantation  each  fall  with 
light  manure,  leaf -mold  or  other  material.  Even  though  the 
Shrubs  are  perfectly  hardy,  this  mulch  greatly  improves  the 
land  and  promotes  growth.  After  the  Shrub  borders  have 
become  two  or  three  years  old,  the  drifting  leaves  of  fall 
will  be  caught  therein  and  will  be  held  as  a  mulch.  It  is 
often  advisable  not  to  remove  these  leaves,  but  to  allow 
them  to  remain  year  after  year,  where  they  make  a  fine 
covering  of  leaf-mold.  When  the  Shrubs  are  first  planted, 
they  are  headed  back  one-half  or  more;  but  after  they  are 
established  they  are  not  to  be  pruned,  but  allowed  to  take 
their  own  way,  and  after  a  few  years  the  outermost  ones 
will  droop  and  meet  the  greensward. 

Good  Shrubs  are  numerous.  Some  of  the  best  are  those 
to  be  found  in  woods  and  along  roadsides.  They  are  hardy. 
Of  Shrubs  which  are  generally  adaptable  for  the  North,  the 
following  are  excellent: 

Barberries. 

Box. 

Burning  Bush,  or  Euonymus. 

Bush  Honeysuckles. 

Bush  Willows. 

Caryopteris,  blooming  in  August  and  September, 

Cotoneasters. 

Desmodiums,  or  Lespedezas,  blooming  in  fall. 

Dwarf  Sumac.     Bhus  copallina. 

Elders.     Native  species  are  excellent. 

Exochorda,  with  profuse  white  bloom  in  spring. 


L'02  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Flowering  Almond. 

Flowering  Crabs. 

Flowering  Currants. 

Forsythias,  or  Golden  Bells. 

Fringe  Tree,  or  Chionanthus. 

Hawthorns. 

Hydrangeas. 

Indian  Currant.     SympJwricarpos  vulgaris, 

Japanese  Quince. 

Kerria,  or  Corchorus. 

Lilacs. 

Mock  Orange,  or  Philadelphus. 

New  Jersey  Tea,  or  Ceanothus. 

Osiers,  or  Dogwoods. 

Privet. 

Rose  Acacia. 

Roses  (see  Roses}. 

Smoke  Tree. 

Snowballs.     The  Japanese  is  preferable, 

Snowberry.     Symphoricarpos  racemosus, 

Spireas  of  many  kinds. 

Viburnums  of  many  kinds. 

Weigelas. 

White  Alder.     Clethra  alnifolia. 

Witch  Hazel.     Blooms  on  the  eve  of  winter. 

Xanthoceras  sorbifolia. 

Silene,  or  CATCHFLY.     Some  of  the  Silenes  are 

hardy  annuals  of  very  easy  culture.  Sow  seeds  where  the 
plants  are  to  stand ;  or,  if  early  results  are  desired,  seeds 
may  be  started  in  boxes.  The  plants  thrive  in  any  garden 
soil,  even  if  it  is  not  very  rich.  Colors  red,  or  sometimes 
running  to  white.  One  foot.  Let  plants  stand  6  to  10 
inches  apart. 

Smilax    of     the    florists    is    closely    allied    to 
asparagus.     While  it  cannot  be  recommended  for  house  cul- 


SMILAX— SNOWFLAKE  203 

ture,  the  ease  with  which  it  may  be  grown  and  the  uses  to 
which  the  festoons  of  leaves  may  be  put,  entitle  it  to  a 
place  in  the  conservatory  or  greenhouse.  Seed  sown  in  pots 
or  boxes  in  January  or  February,  the  plants  shifted  as 
needed  until  planted  on  the  bench  in  August,  will  grow  fine 
strings  of  green  by  the  holidays.  The  plants  should  be  set 
on  low  benches,  giving  as  much  room  as  possible  overhead. 
Green-colored  strings  should  be  used  for  the  vines  to  climb 
on,  the  vines  frequently  syringed  to  keep  down  the  red 
spider,  which  is  very  destructive  to  this  plant,  and  liquid 
manure  given  as  the  vines  grow.  The  soil  should  contain  a 
good  proportion  of  sand  and  be  enriched  with  well-rotted 
manure.  After  the  first  strings  are  cut,  a  second  growth 
fully  as  good  as  the  first  may  be  had  by  cleaning  up  the 
plants  and  top-dressing  the  soil  with  rotted  manure. 
Slightly  shading  the  house  through  August  will  add  to  the 
color  of  the  leaves.  The  odor  from  a  vine  of  Smilax 
thickly  covered  with  the  small  flowers  is  very  agreeable. 
Snapdragon,  or  ANTIRRHINUM.  An  old  garden 

favorite,  flowering  freely  through  a  long  season.  The  dwarf 
strain  is  well  adapted  for  bedding  or  borders.  Any  light 
soil,  well  enriched  with  rotted  manure,  will  grow  Snap- 
dragons to  perfection.  Distinct  varieties  should  be  propa- 
gated by  cuttings,  as  they  do  not  come  true  from  seed. 
Sow  seed  early  in  the  spring. 

Although  bloom  may  be  obtained  the  first  year,  late 
sown  plants  sometimes  persist  over  winter  and  bloom  early 
in  the  spring.  Snapdragons  make  good  window  plants. 

Snowdrop  (Galantlius) .  This  is  one  of  the 
earliest  flowers  of  spring,  always  welcome.  It  should  be 
planted  in  the  edge  of  the  border.  The  bulbs  may  be 
planted  in  October  in  any  good  border  soil  and  left  undis- 
turbed for  years;  or  they  may  be  potted  at  that  time,  and 
after  forming  roots  be  gently  forced  into  bloom  in  winter. 

Snowflake  (Leucoium) .  Culture  same  as  for 
Snowdrop. 


204       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

Sodding.     In  general,  the  best  way  to  secure  a 
lawn  is  by  the  sowing  of  seed  (see  Lawn],  since  it  is  the 
least  expensive  way.     For  small  areas,  and  along  the  sides 
of  walks  and  drives,  sods  may  be  used.     The  results   are 
quicker.      Unless  the  sod  is  of  the  right  kind,  however, 
and  very  carefully  laid,  the  results  are  not  so  good  as 
with  seed. 

The  sod  which  is  best  adapted  to  the  Sodding  of  lawns 
is  that  which  comes  from  an  old,  closely  grazed  pasture. 
Sod  from  a  sheep  pasture  is  supposed  to  be  best.     Such 
sod  has  been  so  closely  grazed  that  it  has  made  a  very 
dense  mat   of   roots,  and    all  the  weeds  have    been  de- 
St°r]Cfc>V     stroyed.     The  droppings  of  the  animals  also  make  the 
TodTdJ?    ground  rich.    The  sod  should  be  cut  in  very  thin  strips. 
ings       It  should  not  be  more  than  an  inch  and  one -half  or  two 
inches  in  thickness.    If  it  is  thicker  than  that,  it  is  heavy  and 
bulky  to  handle,  and  is  not  so  easily  laid.     Ordinarily,  the 
sod  is  cut  in  strips  ten  inches  or  a  foot  wide.     A  board  is 
laid  on  the  sod  and  the  strip  is  cut  along  either  side  of  it 
with  a  sod  cutter  or  a  sharp   spade.      Two  men  then  roll 
up  the  sod.     One  stands  on  the  strip  of   sod  with  his  face 
toward  the  man  who,  with  the  spade,  cuts  it  loose  beneath. 
As  it  is  cut  loose,  the  man  on  the  strip  rolls  the  sod  so  that 
the  upper  surf  ace  is  on  the  inside  of  the  roll.     Strips  longer 
than  ten  or  twelve   feet    make  rolls  which 
are  too  heavy  to  handle  with  ease. 

The  soil  upon  which  the  sod  is  to  be 
placed  should  be  very  loose,  so  that  the  sod 
can  be  pounded  down  firmly.  Some  heavy 
pounder  should  be  used,  as  a  block  of  wood. 
It  is  usually  impossible  to  pound  down  sod  with  the  back  of  a 
spade  sufficiently  firm  unless  the  soil  is  very  loose.  The 
sod  should  be  pounded  until  the  top  is  about  level  with  the 
surrounding  soil.  This  insures  contact  with  the  soil  be- 
neath, so  that  there  are  no  air  spaces  and  no  likelihood  of 
drying  out.  Sod  pounded  down  as  firmly  as  this  should 


SODDING — SOILS  205 

grow  very  readily.  If  a  sod  edging  is  laid  along  walks  and 
drives,  it  should  be  pounded  down  an  inch  or  more  lower 
than  the  surrounding  loose  land  which  is  seeded,  because 
the  loose  land  will  finally  settle ;  otherwise  the  sod  border 
is  likely  to  be  higher  than  adjacent  land  after  a  year  or  two. 

If  there  are  uneven  places  on  the  sodded  area,  these  de- 
pressions can  be  filled  in  with  very  loose,  fine  soil;  and  the 
grass  will  grow  through  it.  In  dry  weather,  a  sodded  area 
may  be  mulched  with  a  half  inch  of  fine  loam  to  protect  it. 

Soils.  Soils  are  of  many  kinds.  The  classi- 
fication of  soils  depends  upon  one's  point  of  view.  Garden- 
ers ordinarily  call  a  good,  friable,  dark-colored,  rich  Soil  a 
garden  loam.  No  Soil  is  so  good  that  it  cannot  be  improved. 
It  is  improved  in  two  general  ways:  by  tilling  (see  Till- 
age], and  by  the  application  of  various  substances. 

In  considering  the  improvement  of  lands  by  the  applica- 
tion of  foreign  substances,  two  distinct  things  are  to  be  con- 
sidered: the  improvement  of  the  physical  texture,  or  tilth, 
of  the  Soil  ;  the  increasing  of  its  plant-food.  These  are 
coordinate  objects.  In  some  cases  one  may  be  of  prime 
importance,  and  in  another  case  the  other  may  be  more 
necessary.  Lands  which  have  a  fair  store  of  available  plant- 
food  may  be  unproductive.  Such  lands  may  be  very  greatly 
benefited  by  stable  manure,  even  though  that  manure  may 
have  lost  a  large  part  of  fertility  by  being  baptized  under 
the  eaves  of  the  barn.  If  plant-food  alone  is  needed,  then 
some  concentrated  or  commercial  fertilizer  may  be  the  best 
thing  to  apply.  In  most  cases  the  main  or  chief  ameliora- 
tion of  the  land  is  to  be  wrought  by  tillage,  stable  manures, 
mulches,  green  crops,  and  the  like;  if  special  results  are 
desired,  commercial  fertilizers  may  be  added  more  or  less 
liberally,  as  the  case  demands  (see  Manures,  Fertilizers). 

The  top-dressing  of  Soils  is  often  very  beneficial  because 
it  tends  to  prevent  the  escape  of  moisture,  and  often  im- 
proves the  physical  texture.  If  the  material  contains  plant - 
food,  the  land  will  also  be  directly  enriched.  The  trim- 


206 


THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Spade 


mings  from  lawns  may  be  a  distinct  protection  to  lands  if 
allowed  to  remain  (see  Lawns) ;  and  the  leaves  which  blow 
into  clumps  of  shrubbery  may  often  be  allowed  to  remain 
with  good  results.  However,  if  the  leaves  become  too  thick 
year  after  year,  they  tend  to  induce  a  surface  rooting  of  the 
shrubs.  This,  however,  may  be  no  disadvantage  unless  the 
mulch  were  finally  to  be  removed.  One  of  the  very  best 
top -dressings  for  borders  and  shrubbery  is  spent  tan 
bark,  since  it  does  not  pile  up  on  the  ground,  but 
tends  to  work  into  it.  Well-rotted  sawdust  often 
has  the  same  effect.  These  materials  are  much  used 
by  gardeners,  when  they  can  be  had,  since  they  can 
be  raked  into  the  soil  in  the  spring,  and  need  not  be 
removed. 

Solidago.     See  Goldenrod. 

Spades  and  Shovels  must  be  a  part  of  every 
garden  equipment.  The  common  and  most  useful  forms 
are  shown  in  the  cuts,  but  long- handled  tools  are  more 
useful  for  the  loading  of  earth,  the  making  of  ditches,  the 
spreading  of  mulches,  and  the  like.  It 
pays  to  buy  the  steel  tools,  with  strongly 
strapped  handles. 

Spearmint  is  prized   by  many 
people  as  a  seasoning,  particularly  for 
the  Thanksgiving  and  holiday  cookery. 
It  is  a  perennial   and    perfectly  hardy, 
and  will  live  in  the  open   garden  year 
after  year.     If  a  supply  of  the  fresh 
herbage  is  wanted  in  winter,  remove 
sods  of    it  to    the   house    six  weeks 
before  wanted.      Place    the    sods  in 

boxes,  and  treat  as  for  house  plants.  The  plants  should 
have  been  frosted  and  become  perfectly  dormant  before 
removal. 

Spinach.     Probably  the  most  extensively  grown 


SPINACH— SPRAYING  207 

early  spring  vegetable,  being  in  great  demand  as  greens. 
The  earliest  crop  that  finds  its  way  to  market  is  gathered 
from  seed  sown  in  September  or  October,  often  pro- 
tected by  frames  or  other  means  through  the  severe  winter, 
and  cut  soon  after  growth  starts  in  early  spring.  Even  as 
far  north  as  New  York  Spinach  may  stand  over  winter  with- 
out protection.  Spinach  is  forced  by  placing  sash  over 
the  frames  in  February  and  March,  protecting  the  young 
leaves  from  severe  freezing  by  mats  or  straw  thrown  over 
the  frames.  Seed  may  be  sown  in  early  spring  for  a  succes- 
sion ;  later  in  the  season  seed  of  the  New  Zealand  Summer 
Spinach-  may  be  sown,  and  this  will  grow  through  the  heat 
of  the  summer  and  yield  a  fine  quality  of  leaves.  The  seed 
of  this  kind  being  very  hard,  should  be  scalded  and 
allowed  to  soak  a  few  hours  before  sowing.  This  seed  is 
usually  sown  in  hills  about  three  feet  apart,  sowing  four  to 
six  seed  in  each  hill.  The  spring  and  winter  Spinach  should 
be  sown  in  drills  12  to  14  inches  apart,  one  ounce  being  suf- 
ficient for  100  feet  of  drill.  Remember  that  common 
Spinach  is  a  cool-weather  (fall  and  spring)  crop. 

Spraying.  Of  late  years  Spraying  has  come  to 
be  one  of  the  most  important  of  all  horticultural  operations. 
Most  kinds  of  injurious  fungi  and  insects  can  be  combated 
by  a  water  spray  in  which  various  poisons  or  injurious  sub- 
stances are  contained.  There  are  two  general  classes  of 
Spraying  material  :  first,  fungicides,  or  those  which  are 
used  for  the  control  of  fungi  or  plant  diseases ;  second,  in- 
secticides, or  those  which  are  used  for  the  control  of  in- 
sect enemies. 

The  fungicides  usually  contain  copper  or  sulfur,  or  both. 
The  most  popular  and  generally  useful  fungicide  is  the 
Bordeaux  mixture  (which  see).  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  most  injurious  fungi  work  on  the  interior  of  the  leaf  or 
stem,  and  only  the  spore-bearing  parts  come  to  the  surface. 
It  is  therefore  very  important  that  Spraying  with  fungicides 
be  done  very  early  in  order  to  prevent  the  fungus  from  get- 


208  THE     PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 

ting  a  hold.  It  is  much  better  to  Spray  once  very  thor- 
oughly than  to  Spray  a  half  dozen  times  carelessly.  It  is 
important  that  the  entire  surface  of  the  foliage  or  stems  be 
covered  with  the  material  in  order  to  prevent  the  access  of 
the  fungi. 

Of  insecticides,  there  are  two  general  types :  those 
which  kill  by  external  contact  and  are  applied  to  plant  lice, 
scale  insects,  and  all  other  insects  which  suck  their  food ; 
and  the  poisonous  compounds  which  are  used  for  the  chew- 
ing insects,  as  all  the  tribes  of  worms  and  beetles.  Of  the 
former  class,  the  most  important  material  is  kerosene  in 
various  forms  (which  see).  Of  the  latter  kind  is  Paris 
green  (which  see).  For  insects,  Spray  just  as  soon  as  the 
attack  is  evident.  Paris  green  and  Bordeaux  mixture  may 
be  used  together. 

The  best  pump  for  Spraying  is  the  one  which  throws  the 
stream  the  greatest  distance  with  the  least  amount  of  liquid, 
and  the  best  nozzle  is  that  which  distributes  the  material 
most  finely  and  evenly.  For  Spraying  plants  close  at  hand, 
the  Vermorel  nozzle  is  now  the  most  popular.  If  it  is  de- 
sired to  reach  the  tops  of  large  trees,  some  other  nozzle 
should  be  used,  as  the  McGowen,  Boss,  or  other  types. 
Every  outfit  should  have  two  or  three  kinds  of  nozzles  for 
different  kinds  of  work.  Get  a  pump  with  much  power. 

Spray  thoroughly.  The  general  rule  is  to  spray  the  entire 
plant  until  the  material  begins  to  drip,  at  which  time  it  may 
be  supposed  that  the  plant  is  covered  completely.  When 
and  how  often  one  should  Spray,  and  what  material  ho 
should  use,  will  depend  entirely  upon  the  difficulty  which 
he  is  endeavoring  to  combat.  Most  fruit  trees  should  be 
Sprayed  before  they  bloom  and  again  just  afterwards.  Some- 
times they  will  need  Spraying  again. 

Sprekelia.     Culture  of  Amaryllis. 

Squash.  The  time  of  planting,  method  of  pre- 
paring the  hills  and  after  culture  are  the  same  as  for  cucum- 


SQUASH— STOCKS 


209 


bers  and  melons  (which  see),  except  that  for  the  Early 
Bush  varieties  the  hills  should  be  4  or  5  feet  apart,  and  for 
the  later  running  varieties  from  6  to 
8  feet  apart.  From  eight  to  ten 
seeds  should  be  planted  in  each  hill, 
thinning  to  four  plants  after  danger 
from  bugs  is  over.  Of  the  early 
Squashes,  one  ounce  of  seed  will 
plant  fifty  hills;  of  the  later  va- 
rieties, one  ounce  will  plant  but 
eighteen  to  twenty  hills.  For  winter  ubbard  Squash 

use,  varieties  of  the  Hubbard  type  are  best.  For  summer 
use,  the  Crooknecks  and  Scallop  Squashes  are  popular.  In 
growing  winter  Squashes  in  a  northern  climate,  it  is  essen- 
tial that  the  plants  start  off  quickly  and  vig- 
orously: a  little  chemical  fertilizer  will  help. 
Pumpkins  are  grown  the  same  as  Squashes. 

Squills  (Scilla).  BLUEBELL.  WILD 
HYACINTH.  Well-known  bulbous  plants,  most 
of  them  hardy.  They  plant  well  with  snow- 
drops and  crocus,  flowering  at  the  same  time, 
but  continuing  longer  in  bloom.  The  colors 
are  red,  pink,  blue  or  white.  The  blue  varieties  have  very 
fine  shades  of  color.  Should  be  planted  in  October  and 
remain  undisturbed. 

Stocks.  The  Ten -weeks  and  the  biennial  or 
Brompton  Stocks,  are  found  in  nearly  all  old-fashioned  gar- 
dens. Most  gardens  are  thought  to  be  incomplete  without 
Stocks,  and  the  use  of  the  biennial  flowering  species  as  house 
plants  is  increasing.  The  Ten-weeks  Stock  is  usually  grown 
from  seed  sown  in  hotbed  or  boxes  in  March.  The  seedlings 
are  transplanted  several  times  previous  to  being  planted  out 
in  early  May.  At  each  transplanting  the  soil  should  be  made 
a  little  richer.  The  double  flowers  will  be  more  numerous 
when  the  soil  is  rich. 


Scallop  or  Patty-pan 
Summer  Squash 


N 


210  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  biennial  species  should  be  sown  the  season  previous 
to  that  in  which  flowers  are  wanted,  the  plants  wintered  over 
in  a  cool  house,  and  grown  on  the  following  spring. 
They  may  be  planted  out  through  the  summer  and  lifted  into 
pots  in  August  or  September  for  winter  flowering.  These 
may  be  increased  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  side  shoots ;  but 
the  sowing  of  seed  is  a  surer  method,  and  unless  an 
extra  fine  variety  is  to  be  saved,  it  would  be  the  best  one  to 
pursue.  Height  10  to  15  inches. 

Storing.  The  principles  which  are  involved  in 
the  Storing  of  perishable  products,  as  fruits  and  vegetables, 
differ  with  the  different  commodities.  All  the  root  crops, 
and  most  fruits,  need  to  be  kept  in  a  cool,  moist  and  uniform 
temperature  if  they  are  to  be  preserved  a  great  length  of 
time.  Squashes,  sweet  potatoes,  and  some  other  things,  need 
to  be  kept  in  an  intermediate  and  what  might  be  called  a 
high  temperature ;  and  the  atmosphere  should  be  drier  than 
for  most  other  products.  The  low  temperature  has  the  effect  of 
arresting  decomposition  and  the  work  of  fungi  and  bacteria. 
The  moist  atmosphere  has  the  effect  of  preventing  too  great 
evaporation  and  the  consequent  shriveling.  In  the  Storing 
of  any  commodity,  it  is  very  important  to  see  that  the  prod- 
uct is  in  proper  condition  for  keeping.  Discard  all  specimens 
which  are  bruised  or  which  are  likely  to  decay.  Much  of  the 
decay  of  fruits  and  vegetables  in  Storage  is  not  the  fault  of 
the  Storage,  but  is  really  the  work  of  diseases  with  which  the 
materials  are  infested  before  they  are  put  into  Storage.  For 
example,  if  potatoes  and  cabbages  are  affected  with  the  rot, 
it  is  practically  impossible  to  keep  them  any  length  of 
time. 

Apples,  winter  pears,  and  all  roots,  should  be  kept  at  a 
temperature  somewhat  near  the  freezing  point.  It  should  not 
raise  above  40°  Fahr.  for  best  results.  Apples  can  even  be 
kept  at  one  or  two  degrees  below  the  freezing  point  if  the 
temperature  is  kept  uniform.  Cellars  in  which  there  are 
heaters  are  likely  to  be  too  dry  and  the  temperature  too  high. 


STORING  211 

In  such  cases  it  is  well  to  keep  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits  in 
tight  receptacles,  and  pack  the  roots  in  sand  or  moss  in  order 
to  prevent  shriveling.  In  these  places,  apples  usually  keep 
better  if  headed  up  in  barrels  than  if  kept  on  racks  or 
shelves.  In  moist  and  cool  cellars,  however,  it  is  preferable 
for  the  home  supply  to  place  them  on  shelves,  not  piling 
them  more  than  five  or  six  inches  deep,  for  then  they  can  be 
sorted  over  as  occasion  re- 
quires. In  case  of  fruits,  be 
sure  that  the  specimens  are 
not  over-ripe  when  placed  in 
storage.  If  apples  are  allowed 
to  lie  in  the  sun  for  a  few  days 
without  being  packed,  they 
will  ripeu  so  much  that  it  is 
very  difficult  to  keep  them. 

Cabbages  should  be  kept  at  a  low  and  uniform  tem- 
perature, and  water  should  be  drained  away  from  them. 
They  are  Stored  in  many  ways  in  the  field,  but  success  de- 
pends so  much  upon  the  season,  particular  variety,  ripe- 
ness, and  the  freedom  from  injuries  by  fungi  and  insects, 
that  uniform  results  are  rarely  secured  by  any  method.  The 
best  results  are  to  be  expected  when  they  can  be  kept  in  a 
house  which  is  built  for  the  purpose,  in  which  the  tempera- 
ture can  be  kept  uniform  and  the  air  fairly  moist.  When 
Stored  out  of  doors,  they  are  likely  to  freeze  and  thaw  alter- 
nately; and  if  the  water  runs  into  the  tteads,  mischief  is 
likely  to  result.  Sometimes  they  are  easily  Stored  by  being 
piled  into  a  conical  heap  on  well-drained  soil  and  covered 
with  dry  straw,  and  the  straw  covered  with  boards.  It  does 
not  matter  if  they  are  frosted,  provided  they  do  not  thaw  out 
frequently.  Sometimes  cabbages  are  laid  head  down  in  a 
shallow  furrow  plowed  in  well -drained  land,  and  over  them 
is  thrown  straw,  the  stumps  being  allowed  to  project  through 
the  cover.  It  is  only  in  winters  of  rather  uniform  tempera- 
ture that  good  results  are  to  be  expected  from  such  methods. 


212  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

In  the  Storing  of  all  things,  especially  those  which  have 
soft  and  green  matter,  as  cabbages,  it  is  well  to  provide 
for  the  heating  of  the  produce.  If  the  things  are  buried  out 
of  doors,  it  is  important  to  put  on  a  very  light  cover  at  first 
so  that  the  heat  may  escape.  Cover  them  gradually  as  the 
cold  weather  comes  on.  This  is  important  with  all  vegetables 
that  are  placed  in  pits,  as  potatoes,  beets  and  the  like.  If 
covered  deeply  at  once,  they  are  likely  to  heat  and  rot. 
All  pits  made  out  of  doors  should  be  on  well -drained  and 
preferably  sandy  land. 

When  vegetables  are  wanted  at  intervals  during  the 
winter  from  pits,  it  is  well  to  make  compartment  pits, 
each  compartment  holding  a  wagon  load  or  whatever 
quantity  will  be  likely  to  be  wanted  at  each  time.  These 
pits  are  sunk  in  well -drained  land,  and  between  each 
of  the  two  pits  is  left  a  wall  of  earth  about  a  foot  thick. 
One  pit  can  then  be  emptied  in  cold  weather  without  in- 
terfering with  the  others. 

An  outside  cellar  is  better  than  a  house  cellar  in  which 
there  is  a  heater,  but  it  is  not  so  handy.  If  it  is  near  the 
house,  it  need  not  be  inconvenient,  however.  A  house  is 
usually  healthier  if  the  cellar  is  not  used  for  storage.  House 
cellars  used  for  storage  should  have  a  ventilating  shaft. 

Strawberry.  The  saying  that  Strawberries  will 
grow  on  almost  any  soil  is  misleading,  although  true. 
Some  varieties  of  Strawberries  will  grow 
on  certain  soils  better  than  other  varie- 
ties. What  these  varieties  are  can  only 
be  determined  by  an  actual  test,  but  it  is 
a  safe  rule  to  select  such  varieties  as 
prove  good  in  many  localities.  As  to 
the  methods  of  culture,  so  much  depends 

Strawberries  on  tne  gjze    of    the    plo^    the   purpOse    for 

which  the  fruit  is  wanted,  and  the  amount  of  care  one  is 
willing  to  give,  that  no  set  rule  can  be  given  for  a  garden 
in  which  but  few  plants  are  grown  and  extra  care  can  be 


STRAWBERRY 


213 


Well  planted  Strawberry 


given.  Large  fruits  and  a  number  of  them  may  be  had  by 
growing  to  the  single  plant,  keeping  off  all  runners  and 
relying  on  numerous  fruit -crowns  on  one  plant  for  the 
crop  of  berries.  Or  Strawberries  may  be  grown  by  the  nar- 
row matted -row  system,  in  which  the 
runners,  before  rooting,  should  be 
turned  along  the  rows  at  a  distance  of 
from  4  to  6  inches  from  the  parent 
plant.  These  runners  should  be  the 
first  ones  made  by  the  plant  and  should 
not  be  allowed  to  root  themselves,  but 
"  set  in."  This  is  not  a  difficult  opera- 
tion ;  and  if  the  runners  are  separated 
from  the  parent  plant  as  soon  as  they 
become  well  established,  the  drain  on 
that  plant  is  not  great.  All  other  run- 
ners should  be  cut  off  as  they  start.  The  row  should  be 
about  12  inches  wide  at  fruiting  time.  Each  plant  should 
have  sufficient  feeding  ground,  full  sunlight,  and  a  firm 
hold  in  the  soil.  This  matted- row  system  is  perhaps  as 
good  a  method,  either  in  a  private  garden  or  field  culture, 
as  could  be  practiced.  With  a  little  care  in  hoeing,  weed- 
ing and  cutting  off  runners,  the  beds 
seem  to  produce  as  large  crops  the 
second  year  as  the  first. 

The  old  way  of  growing  a  crop 
was  to  set  the  plants  10  to  12  inches 
apart,  in  rows  3  feet  apart,  and  al- 
low them  to  run  and  root  at  will, 
the  results  being  a  mass  of  small, 
crowded  plants,  each  striving  to  ob- 
tain plant-food  and  none  of  them  succeeding  in  getting 
enough.  The  last,  or  outside  runners,  having  but  the 
tips  of  their  roots  in  the  ground,  are  moved  by  the 
wind,  heaved  by  the  frost,  or  have  the  exposed  roots 
dried  out  by  the  wind  and  sun. 


Pot-grown  Strawberry 


214  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

Ground  rich  in  potash  produces  the  firmest  and  best 
flavored  berries.  Excessive  use  of  stable  manure,  usually 
rich  in  nitrogen,  should  be  avoided,  as  tending  to  make  too 
rank  growth  of  foliage  and  berries  of  a  soft  texture. 

Except  in  the  case  of  a  skillful  grower  in  a  favored 
locality,  the  fall  setting  of  plants  is  not  to  be  recom- 
mended. The  preparation  of  the  soil  and  care  of  the 
plants  more  than  overbalance  the  partial  crop  obtained  the 
following  spring. 

In  the  single -plant  or  hill  system  the  plants  should  beset 
12  inches  apart,  in  rows  3  feet  apart.  In  the  narrow  matted 
row  system  the  plants  should  be  set  18  inches  apart,  in  rows 
'3%  ^ee^  apart.  The  first  method  requires  about  14,000 
plants  per  acre,  the  second  about  8,000  plants. 

The  winter  treatment  of  a  Strawberry  bed  should  consist 
in  covering  the  plants,  when  the  ground  is  frozen,  in  Novem- 
ber or  December,  with  straw  or  hay.  Salt  marsh  hay,  if  ob- 
tainable, is  the  best,  as  no  weed  seeds  are  introduced.  Cover 
the  soil  and  the  plants  to  the  depth  of  3  to  6  inches.  As 
soon  as  growth  begins  in  spring,  rake  the  mulch  off,  allow- 
ing it  to  lie  between  the  rows;  or,  if  the  soil  is  hard  or 
weedy,  it  may  be  taken  off  the  patch  entirely,  the  ground 
tilled,  and  then  replaced  for  the  purpose  of  holding  moisture 
and  keeping  the  berries  clean. 

Usually,  Strawberries  may  be  fruited  twice  or  three 
times  ;  but  on  rich  soil,  with  extra  good  care,  the  first 
crop  may  be  very  heavy,  and  the  patch  may  be  plowed 
up  thereafter.  Some  varieties  do  not  produce  pollen,  and 
not  more  than  two  rows  of  these  should  be  planted  without 
a  row  of  a  pollen-bearing  kind. 

The  rust  and  mildew  may  be  held  in  check  by  Bordeaux 
mixture.  It  is  usually  sufficient  to  spray  after  the  blooming 
season  (or  at  any  time  the  first  year  the  plants  are  set), 
in  order  to  secure  healthy  foliage  for  the  next  year. 

Sunflower  (HeUanthus) .  People  who  know 
only  the  coarse  annual  Sunflower  are  not  aware  of  the 


SUNFLOWER — SWAN     RIVER    DAISY 


215 


Helianthus 


beauty  which  it  is  possible  to  secure  with  the  herbaceous 

perennials  belonging  to  that  family.     No  border  should  be 

without  a    few    of    the    hardy    species. 

Their    blooming     period    extends    from 

early  in  August  until  heavy  frost.     The 

color    runs    from    light    lemon    to    the 

richest  orange,  and  the  range  of  growth 

from   3  to    10    feet,   thus  enabling    one 

to    scatter     them    through    the     border 

without  any  formal  arrangement.    They 

are  of  the  easiest  culture.     Plants  may 

be  dug  in  the  wild  or  bought  of  nursery- 
men.      The    domesticated    double 
multiftorns  is  always  valuable. 

Of  the  annual  Sunflowers,  there  are  some 
which  are  not  generally  cultivated  that  should 
receive  more  attention.  The  silver-leaved 
species  from  Texas  (H.  argophylhis] ,  and  the 
small,  light  lemon-yellow  variety,  are  two  of 
the  best. 

Swainsona.  This  makes  a  very  de- 
sirable house  plant,  blooming  through  the  late 
winter  and  early  spring  months.  The  blossoms, 
which  resemble  those  of  the  pea, 
are  borne  in  long  racemes.  The 
wild  sunflower  Plant  foliage  js  finely  cut>  resembling  small 

locust  leaves,  and  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  plant, 
the  whole  effect  being  exceedingly  graceful.  It 
may  be  grown  from  seed  or  cuttings.  Propagate 
a  new  stock  each  year.  The  flowers  are  large 
and  pure  white.  The  plant  has  been  called 
the  "Winter  Sweet  Pea,"  but  the  flowers  are 
not  fragrant. 

Swan  River  Daisy  (Brachycome  iberidifolia)  is 
a  charming  little  border  plant,  growing  to  the  height  of  12  to 
15  inches,  and  bearing  quantities  of  blue  or  white  flowers 


Wild  Sunflower 


216  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  flowers  last  a  long  time  when  cut,  and  give  a  vase  of 
flowers  a  light,  graceful  effect.  The  seed  should  be  sown 
in  boxes,  hotbed,  or  windows  ;  or,  in  warm  garden  soil,  the 
seed  may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  Only  half 
hardy,  and  should  not  be  planted  out  until  settled  weather. 
Annual. 

Sweet  Corn.     See  Corn. 

Sweet  Herbs.  The  Herb  garden  should  find  a 
place  on  all  amateurs'  grounds.  Herbs  may  readily  be  made 
profitable  by  disposing  of  the  surplus  to  the  green  grocer 
and  the  druggist.  The  latter  will  often  buy  all  that  the 
housewife  wishes  to  dispose  of,  as  the  general  supply  of 
medicinal  herbs  is  grown  by  specialists,  and  goes  into  the 
hands  of  the  wholesaler  and  is  often  old  when  re- 
ceived by  the  local  dealer.  The  seedsmen's  catalogues  men- 
tion upwards  of  forty  different  Herbs,  medicinal  and  culinary. 
The  majority  of  them  are  perennial,  and  will  grow  for  many 
years  if  well  taken  care  of.  However,  it  is  better  to  resow 
every  three  or  four  years.  The  annual  kinds  are  raised 
from  seeds  each  year.  Beds  4  feet  square  of  each  of  the 
Herbs  will  supply  an  ordinary  family. 

Sweet  Pea.  No  annual  receives  greater  atten- 
tion these  days  than  the  Sweet  Pea.  Sweet  Pea  exhibitions 
are  held  in  several  sections  of  the  country,  the  press  gives 
considerable  space  to  the  discussion  of  varieties,  and  the 
public  generally  is  interested  in  the  growing  or  buying  of 
the  flower.  On  any  occasion  the  Sweet  Pea  is  in  place.  A 
bouquet  of  shaded  colors,  with  a  few  sprays  of  galium  or  the 
perennial  gypsophila,  makes  one  of  the  choicest  of  table 
decorations.  Deep,  mellow  soil,  early  planting  and  heavy 
mulching  suit  them  admirably.  Sow  the  seeds  as  soon 
as  the  ground  is  fit  to  work  in  the  spring,  making  a  drill  5 
inches  deep.  Sow  thickly  and  cover  with  2  inches  of  soil. 
When  the  plants  have  made  2  or  3  inches  growth  above  the 
soil,  fill  the  drill  nearly  full,  leaving  a  slight  depression  in 


SWEET    PEA — SWEET    POTATOES  217 

which  water  may  be  caught.  After  the  soil  is  thoroughly 
soaked  with  water,  a  good  mulch  will  hold  the  moisture.  To 
have  the  ground  ready  in  early  spring,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
trench  the  soil  in  the  fall.  The  top  of  the  soil  then  dries  out 
very  quickly  in  the  spring  and  is  left  in  good  physical  condi- 
tion. Frequent  syringing  with  clear  water  will 
keep  off  the  red  spider  that  often  destroys  -the 
foliage,  and  attention  to  picking  the  seed  pods 
will  lengthen  the  season  of  bloom.  If  the  finest 
flowers  are  wanted,  do  not  let  the  plants  stand 
less  than  8-12  inches  apart. 

A  succession  of  sowings  may  be-made  at  inter- 
vals through  May  and  June,   and  a  fair  fall  crop 
obtained   if   care  is    taken  to  water  and  mulch  ; 
but  the  best  results  will  be  secured  with  the  very 
early  planting.    In  the  middle  and  southern  states, 
the  seed   may  be   planted   in  fall,  particularly  in 
lighter  soils.     It  is  easy  to  get  soils  too  rich  in  nitrogen  for 
Sweet  Peas  ;  in  such  case,  they  will  run  to  vine  at  the  ex- 
pense of   flowers.     If  the  plants  are  watered,  apply  enough 
to  soak  the  soil,  and  do  not  water  frequently. 

Sweet  Potatoes  are  grown  from  sprouts 
planted  on  ridges  or  hills,  not  by  planting  the  tubers,  as 
with  the  common  or  Irish  potato.  The  method  of  obtaining 
these  sprouts  is  as  follows:  In  April,  tubers  of  Sweet 
Potatoes  are  planted  in  a  partially  spent  hotbed  by  using  the 
whole  tuber  (or  if  a  large  one,  by  cutting  it  in  two  through 
the  long  way),  covering  the  tubers  with  2  inches  of  light, 
well  firmed  soil.  The  sash  should  be  put  on  the  frames  and 
only  enough  ventilation  given  to  keep  the  Potatoes  from  de- 
caying. In  ten  or  twelve  days  the  young  sprouts  should 
begin  to  appear,  and  the  bed  should  be  watered  if  dry.  The 
sprouts  when  pulled  from  the  tuber  will  be  found  to  have 
rootlets  at  the  lower  end  and  along  the  stems.  These 
sprouts  should  be  about  3  to  5  inches  long  by  the  time 
the  ground  is  warm  enough  to  plant  them  out.  The  ridgts 


218  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

or  hills  should  be  prepared  by  plowing  out  a  furrow  4  to  6 
inches  deep.  Scatter  manure  in  the  furrow  and  plow  back 
the  soil  so  as  to  raise  the  center  at  least  6  inches  above  the 
level  of  the  soil.  On  this  ridge  the  plants  are  set,  placing 
the  plants  well  in  to  the  leaves,  and  about  12  to  18  inches 
apart  in  the  rows,  the  rows  being  from  3  to  4  feet  apart. 
The  after  cultivation  consists  in  stirring  the  soil  between  the 
ridges  ;  and  as  the  vines  begin  to  run  they  should  be 
lifted  frequently  to  prevent  rooting  at  the  joints.  When  the 
tips  of  the  vines  have  been  touched  by  frost  the  crop  may  be 
harvested,  the  tubers  left  to  dry  a  few  days,  and  stored  in  a 
dry,  warm  place.  To  keep  Sweet  Potatoes,  store  in  layers 
in  barrels  or  boxes  in  dry  sand,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry 
room.  See  that  all  bruised  or  chilled  potatoes  are  thrown  out. 

Syringing  plants  with  water  has  two  general 
offices:  to  clean  the  plants  of  pests  or  of  dirt;  to  check 
evaporation  or  transpiration  from  the  plant  itself. 

Gardeners  look  upon  water  as  a  good  insecticide.  That 
is,  if  it  can  be  thrown  upon  the  plants  somewhat  forcibly  by 
means  of  a  syringe  or  pump,  or  by  the  hydrant  hose,  it  will 
wash  off  the  insects  and  drown  many  of  them.  The  water 
should  be  applied  in  a  line  and  somewhat  forcible  spray. 
Care  should  be  taken  that  the  plant  is  not  torn  or  bruised. 
The  red  spider  is  one  of  the  most  serious  pests  on  house 
plants,  and,  in  a  dry  season,  on  plants  about  the  lawn. 
It  thrives  in  a  dry  atmosphere.  It  usually  lives  on  the 
under  sides  of  the  leaves.  Syringing  the  plants  frequently 
will  destroy  the  pests.  The  thrips  and  slugs  on  rose  bushes 
can  nearly  always  be  kept  in  check  if  one  can  spray  or 
syringe  his  plants  frequently.  See  Spraying. 

Syringing  to  check  transpiration  from  the  foliage  is 
very  useful  with  plants  which  are  recently  transplanted. 
For  instance,  when  carnations  are  taken  from  the  field  and 
placed  in  the  house,  it  is  well  to  syringe  them  occasionally 
until  they  have  become  established.  The  same  is  true  with 
cuttings. 


SYRINGING — TERRACE 


219 


In  Syringing  plants,  it  is  well  to  take  care  that  the 
ground  does  not  become  too  wet';  otherwise  the  plant  may 
suffer  at  its  root.  In  the  house,  plants  should  rarely  be 
syringed  except  when  the  weather  is  bright,  so  that  they 
may  soon  dry  off.  The  plant  should  not  go  into  the  night 
with  wet  foliage.  Out  of  doors  in  hot  weather,  it  is  best  to 
syringe  toward  nightfall.  The  foliage  will  ordinarily  not 
suffer  in  such  cases.  With  plants  in  the  house,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  keep  the  leaves  dry  most  of  the  time  in  order  that 
fungi  may  not  breed.  This  is  true  of  carnations,  which  are 
very  liable  to  attacks  of  the  rust. 

Plants  are  sometimes  syringed  or  sprayed  to  protect  them 
from  frost.  See  Frost. 

Terraces  may  be  desirable  for  two  reasons  : 
to  hold  a  very  steep  slope  ;  to  afford  an  architectural  base 
for  a  building. 

It  is  rarely  necessary  to  make  a  distinct  Terrace  in  the 
lawn.  Even  if  the  lawn  is  very  steep,  it  may  be  better  to 
make  a  gradual  slope  than  to  cut  the  place  in  two  with  a 
Terrace.  A  Terrace  makes  a  place  look  smaller.  It  is  al- 
ways difficult  to  make  and  to  keep 
in  repair.  The  surface  is  not  read- 
ily cut  with  a  lawn  mower.  Unless 
the  sod  is  very  dense,  the  upper 
corner  tends  to  wash  off  with  the 
rains  and  the  foot  tends  to  fill  in. 
Nature  does  not  have  straight  banks 
unless  they  are  rock.  The  illustra- 
tion in  the  margin  shows  how  it 
sloping  lawn.  In  the  distance  is 


A  slope  is  better  than  a  terrace 


is   possible    to  treat    a 
a  distinct,  sharp-angled 


carried  out  into  the  lawn,  so  that  the  slope  is  an  agreeable 
one. 

If  it  is  necessary  to  Terrace  a  yard  in  order  to  hold  it, 
the  Terrace  would  better  be  at  one  side  rather  than  in  the 
middle.  In  that  case,  one  is  able  to  secure  a  good  breadth 


220  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

of  lawn.  If  the  Terrace  is  at  the  outer  side  next  the  street, 
a  perpendicular,  mason-work,  retaining  wall  may  be  con- 
structed. If  it  is  on  the  inner  side  of  the  lawn,  it  may  be 
placed  close  to  the  building  and  be  made  to  appear  as  a 
part  of  the  architecture  :  it  may  be  made  the  base  of  the 
building.  If  this  is  done,  there  should  be  a  balustrade 
around  the  edge  of  the  Terrace  to  give  it  architectural  feel- 
ing. The  descent  from  the  Terrace  to  the  lawn  may  be 
made  by  means  of  steps,  so  as  to  add  to  the  architectural 
aspect  of  the  place.  Terraces  are  most  in  place  about  build- 
ings which  have  many  strong  horizontal  lines  ;  they  do  not 
lend  themselves  so  well  to  buildings  in  the  Gothic  style. 
The  general  tendency  is  to  make  too  many  Terraces.  The 
cases  are  relatively  few  in  which  they  may  not  be  dispensed 
with. 

Thinning  of  fruit  has  four  general  uses  :  to 
cause  the  remaining  fruit  to  grow  larger  ;  to  increase  the 
chances  of  annual  crops  ;  to  save  the  vitality  of  the  tree  ; 
to  enable  one  to  combat  insects  and  diseases  by  destroying 
the  injured  fruit. 

The  Thinning  of  fruit  is  nearly  always  done  soon  after 
the  fruit  is  thoroughly  set.  It  is  then  possible  to  determine 
which  of  the  fruits  are  likely  to  persist.  Peaches  are  usu- 
ally Thinned  when  they  are  the  size  of  one's  thumb.  If 
Thinned  before  this  time,  they  are  so  small  that  it  is  difficult 
to  pick  them  off  ;  and  it  is  not  so  easy  to  see  the  work  of 
the  curculio  and  thereby  to  select  the  injured  fruits.  Sim- 
ilar remarks  will  apply  to  other  fruits.  The  general  ten- 
dency is,  even  with  those  who  Thin  their  fruits,  not  to  Thin 
enough.  It  is  usually  safer  to  take  off  what  would  seem  to 
be  too  many  than  not  to  take  off  enough.  The  remaining 
specimens  are  better.  Varieties  which  tend  to  overbear 
profit  very  greatly  by  Thinning.  This  is  notably  the  case 
with  many  Japanese  plums,  which,  if  not  Thinned,  are  very 
inferior. 

Thinning  may  also  be  accomplished  by  pruning.     If  one 


THINNING— TILLAGE  221 

knows  where  the  fruit  buds  are,  cutting  them  off  will  have 
the  effect  of  removing  the  fruit.  In  the  case  of  tender 
fruits,  like  peaches,  however,  it  may  not  be  advisable  to 
Thin  very  heavily  by  means  of  pruning,  since  the  fruit  may 
be  still  further  Thinned  by  the  remaining  days  of  winter, 
by  late  spring  frost,  or  by  the  leaf -curl  or  other  disease. 
However,  the  proper  pruning  of  a  peach  tree  in  winter  is, 
in  part,  a  Thinning  of  the  fruit.  The  peach  is  borne  on  the 
wood  of  the  previous  season's  growth.  The  best  fruits  are 
to  be  expected  on  the  strongest  and  heaviest  growth.  It  is 
the  practice  of  peach-growers  to  remove  all  the  weak  and 
immature  wood  from  the  inside  of  the  tree.  This  has  the 
effect  of  Thinning  out  the  inferior  fruit  and  allowing  the  en 
ergy  of  the  tree  to  be  expended  on  the  remainder.  Apples 
are  rarely  Thinned  ;  but  in  many  cases,  Thinning  can  be 
done  with  profit.  On  all  home  grounds,  fruits  should  be 
Thinned  whenever  the  trees  are  very  full.  In  general,  the 
best  time  to  thin  the  fruit,  as  already  said,  is  when  the 
fruits  have  become  large  enough  to  be  seen  and  handled. 
The  discarded  fruits  should  be  burned  if  they  contain  insects 
or  fungi. 

Thunbergia.      Tender   climbers,    making    very 
pretty  low  screens.     They  are  at  their  best  when 
grown  along  the  ground  where  the  moisture  keeps; 
them  free  from  the   attacks  of  red  spider.     Some' 
of  the  kinds  are  very  fine  vase  or  basket  plants. 
All  may  be  grown  easily  from  seed.      Annuals,  4 
to  6  feet.     Flowers  white  and  yellow. 

Tillage.     By  Tillage  is  meant  the  stir- 
ring of  the  soil.     Tillage  is  the  fundamental  opera-     Thunbergia  aiata 
tion    in  agricultural   practice.     Most    farmers    till 
for  three  reasons :    to  get  the  seed  into  the  land ;    to    keep 
the  weeds  down;  and  to  get  the  crop  out  of  the  land.     The 
real  reason  for  Tillage,  however,  is  to  ameliorate  the  land; 
that   is,  Tillage  makes   the   soil  mellow  and  fine,   and    an 
agreeable  place  in  which  plants  may  grow.     It  enables  the 


222 


THE     PRACTICAL     GARDEN -BOOK 


soil  to  hold  moisture,  to  present  the  greatest  feeding  surface 
to  roots,  to  allow  the  circulation  of  air,  and  intensifies  many 
chemical  activities.  Tilling  the  soil  is  the  first  means  of 
making  it  productive.  If  one  understands  the  many  forces 
that  are  set  at  work,  the  Tilling  of  the  soil  becomes  one  of 
the  most  interesting  and  exciting  of  all  agricultural  opera- 
tions. 

The  exact  method  of  Tilling  the  soil  in  any  particular 
case  must  be  determined  by  many  circumstances.  Light 
soils  are  handled  differently  from  heavy  soils;  and  much  de- 
pends also  upon  the  season  of  the  year  in  which  the  Tillage 
is  done.  In  all  ordinary  soils,  the  effort  should  be  made  to 
work  them  deep,  so  that  there  is  a  deep  reservoir  for  the 
storage  of  moisture  and  a  large  area  in  which  roots  can 
work.  Subsequent  Tillage  throughout  the  growing  season 
is  performed  very  largely  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  top 
of  the  soil  loose  and  fine  so  that  the  moisture  from  beneath 
cannot  pass  off  into  the  atmosphere.  This  loose  layer  of 
soil,  extending  two  or  three  inches  from  the  surface,  may 
itself  be  very  dry ;  but  it  breaks  up  the  capillary  connection 
between  the  lower  soil  and  the  air,  and  thereby  prevents 
This  surf  ace  layer  of  loose,  mellow  soil  is  often 
spoken  of  as  the  earth-mulch.  It  answers 
much  the  same  purpose  as  a  mulch  of 
straw  or  leaves  in  interposing  a  material 
between  the  moist  soil  and  the  air  through 
which  the  moisture  cannot  rise.  If  this 
mulch  is  repaired  as  often  as  it  should  be, 
weeds  cannot  grow;  but  the  object  of  the 
Tilling  is  more  to  make  and  maintain  the 
mulch  than  to  destroy  weeds.  The  surface 
should  be  Tilled  shallow  in  the  growing  sea- 
son as  often  as  it  tends  to  become  compact 
This  will  be  after  every  rain,  and  usually  as 


evaporation. 


For  hand  Tilling 

or  encrusted 


often  as  once  in  ten  days  when  there  is  no  rain.     The  tools 
to  be  used  for  this  surface  Tillage  are  those  which  will  com- 


TILLAGE— TOMATO  223 

minute  or  fine  the  soil  most  completely  without  compacting 
it  or  leaving  it  in  ridges  or  in  furrows.     In  garden  work,  a 
fine  rake  is  the  ideal  thing;    whereas  in   field   work,  some 
of  the  wire -tooth  weeders  or  smoothing  harrows  are  ex- 
cellent.    In  fields  which  are  hard  and  lumpy,  however, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  use  heavier  and  rougher  tools. 

In  order  to  break  down  hard  clay  soils,  one  must  ex- 
ercise great  care  not  to  work  them  when  they  are  wet; 
and  also  not  to  work  them  very  much  when  they  are  dry. 
There  is  a  time,  shortly  after  a  rain,  when  clay  lumps 
will  break  to  pieces  with  a  very  slight  blow.  At  this 
time  it  is  well  to  go  over  them  with  a  harrow  or  a  Steelrake 
rake.  After  the  next  rain,  they  can  be  gone  over  again, 
and  before  the  end  of  the  season  the  soil  should  be  in  fine 
condition.  An  excellent  way  of  breaking  down  clay  land  is 
to  plow  or  spade  it  in  the  fall  and  allow  it  to  weather  in 
the  winter.  In  such  cases  the  land  should  not  be  raked  or 
harrowed,  but  allowed  to  lie  rough  and  loose.  Very  hard 
clay  lands  sometimes  run  together  or  cement  if  handled  in 
this  way,  but  this  will  not  occur  if  the  land  has  stubble  or 
sod  or  a  dressing  of  manure,  for  the  fibrous  matter  will  then 
prevent  it  from  puddling.  Lime  sown  on  clay  land  at  the 
rate  of  twenty  to  forty  bushels  to  the  acre  also  has  a  dis- 
tinct effect  in  pulverizing  it.  This  may  be  sown  in  fall, 
or  preferably  in  spring  when  the  land  is  plowed. 

One  of  the  most  important  ways  of  ameliorating  laud  is 
to  work  vegetable  matter  into  it  so  as  to  give  it  humus. 
Soils  which  are  loose,  black  and  friable  contain  much  of 
this  vegetable  mold.  In  many  cases  the  chief  value  of 
stable  manure  is  to  add  this  humus  to  the  soil.  Many  soils 
need  humus  more  than  they  need  plant-food,  and  hence 
stable  manure  gives  better  results  in  those  cases  than  com- 
mercial fertilizers.  The  farmer  secures  the  humus  by  plow- 
ing under  stubble  and  sod,  and  occasional  green  crops. 

Tomato.  The  early  fruits  are  very  easily 
grown  by  starting  the  plants  in  a  greenhouse,  hotbed  or  in 


224  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

shallow  boxes  placed  in  windows.  A  pinch  of  seed  sown  in 
March  will  give  all  the  early  plants  a  large  family  can  use. 
When  the  plants  have  reached  the  height  of  two  or  three 
inches  they  should  be  transplanted  into  3 -inch  flower  pots, 
old  berry  boxes  or  other  receptacles,  and  allowed  to 
grow  slow  and  stocky  until  time  to  set  them  out,  which  is 
from  May  15  on  ( in  New  York) .  They  should  be  set  in  rows 
four  or  five  feet  apart,  the  plants  being  the  same  distance  in 
the  rows.  Some  support  should  be  given  to  keep  the  fruits 
off  the  ground  and  to  hasten  the  ripening.  A  trellis  of 
chicken -wire  makes  an  excellent  support,  as  does  the  light 
lath  fencing  that  may  be  bought  or  made  at  home.  Stout 
stakes,  with  wire  strung  the  length  of  the 
rows,  afford  an  excellent  support.  A  very 
showy  method  is  that  of  a  frame  made  like 
an  inverted  V,  which  allows  the  fruits  to 
hang  free;  with  a  little  attention  to  trim- 
ming, the  light  reaches  the  fruits  and  ripens 
them  perfectly.  This  support  is  made  by 
Tomato  ""^  leaning  together  two  lath  frames.  The  late 
fruits  may  be  picked  green  and  ripened  on 
a  shelf  in  the  sun;  or  they  will  ripen  if  placed  in  a  drawer. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  be  enough  for  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  hundred  plants.  A  little  fertilizer  in  the  hill  will 
start  the  plants  off  quickly.  The  rot  is  less  serious  when 
the  vines  are  kept  off  the  ground  and  the  rampant  suckers 
are  cut  out. 

Tools  of  many  kinds,  and  well  chosen,  are 
one  of  the  joys  of  a  garden.  There  is  great  satisfaction  in 
a  well-made,  clean  tool  which  does  its  work  well.  Keep 
the  tools  bright.  They  should  be  under  cover,  and  in  place, 
when  not  in  use.  A  cupboard  may  be  built  by  the  rear 
porch,  or  in  the  barn  or  carriage  house.  See  that  the  cup- 
board is  in  a  dry  place.  Various  Tools  have  been  men- 
tioned in  the  preceding  pages,  and  other  useful  kinds  are 
shown  in  the  article  on  Weeds. 


TRANSPLANTING— TUBEROSE    •  225 

Transplanting.     This   operation    the    gardener 

calls  in  one  instance  "pricking  out."  This  means  taking 
young  seedling  plants  from  the  seed  box  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough  to  be  handled — usually  when  the  first  "rough" 
leaves  have  developed — and  replanting  them  in  other  boxes 
or  pots,  either  singly  or  at  a  greater  distance  apart  than  they 
were  when  in  the  seed  boxes.  The  term  is  used  in  the 
operation  of  setting  out  plants  from  the  hotbed,  frame  or 
house  to  the  garden;  also  in  removing  shrubs  or  trees. 
Transplant  on  a  cloudy  day,  and  just  before  a  rain,  if 
possible. 

Trimming  is  a  term  which  is  ordinarily  con- 
founded with  pruning  (  which  see ) .  The  word  "Trimming," 
however,  should  be  restricted  to  the  shaping  of  the  trees  and 
not  to  the  thinning  of  the  tree  or  to  pruning  for  wood,  fruit 
or  other  special  object.  Trimming  is  only  one  of  the  means 
of  pruning.  Trimming  is  mostly  used  in  the  case  of  hedges. 
It  is  also  used  to  keep  evergreens  in  shape.  Many  orna- 
mental plants  are  also  Trimmed  into  various  forms,  although 
it  is  a  question  if  such  Trimming  is  usually  wise.  Fruit 
trees  should  be  pruned,  as  a  rule,  rather  than  Trimmed: 
that  is,  they  usually  should  be  allowed  to  take  their  natural 
form,  the  pruner  taking  out  the  superfluous  wood  and  keep- 
ing them  within  manageable  bounds. 

Tropseolum.     See  Nasturtium. 

Tuberose.  The  Tuberose  requires  more  heat 
to  grow  to  perfection  than  it  is  usually  possible  to  give 
here  in  the  North.  If  planted  in  the  border  they  will  not 
start  into  growth  until  the  ground  has  become  thoroughly 
warm — usually  after  the  middle  of  June, — making  the  season 
before  frost  too  short  for  their  perfect  growth  and  flower. 
However,  if  started  in  loose  soil  or  moss  in  a  warm  room  or 
on  benches  of  a  greenhouse,  the  roots  will  soon  start  from 
the  tuber  and  make  a  fine  growth.  If  planted  out  in  June 
with  a  good  ball  of  roots  they  are  likely  to  bloom  before 

O 


226  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

frost.  If  any  danger  of  frost  is  feared  they  may  be  lifted 
into  pots  or  boxes  and  taken  into  the  house,  when  they  will 
bloom  without  a  check.  As  with  other  bulbs,  a  sandy  soil 
will  suit. 

Tuberous  Begonia.  A  large  bed  of  these  covered 

with  crimson,  pink,  white,  or  yellow  flowers,  ranging  from 
2  to  4  and  even  6  inches  in  diameter,  some  double,  some 
single,  is  a  striking  sight.  Yet  such  a  sight  is  not  uncom- 
mon about  the  large  eastern  cities  where  the  Tuberous  Be- 
gonia is  now  used  somewhat  for  bedding. 

Our  interior  summers  are  more  trying,  and  so  far,  few  in 
the  west  have  succeeded  so  well  with  the  Tuberous  Begonia 
as  a  bedding  plant.  It  makes  a  fine  summer-blooming  pot- 
plant,  however,  for  the  greenhouse  or  window,  and  with  due 
attention  to  its  requirements,  it  may  be  used  as  a  bedding 
plant.  It  properly  falls  under  greenhouse  plants  in  its  re- 
quirements. 

C.  L.  Allen,  writing  of  its  culture  in  his  work  on  "Bulbs 
and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants,"  says:  "The  principal  point 
learned  in  regard  to  its  culture  is,  that  it  must  be  treated  as 
a  plant  and  not  as  a  bulb.  The  enthusiastic  florist,  seeing 
the  many  good  qualities  of  the  plant,  has 
led  amateurs  to  believe  it  could  be  treated 
as  a  bulb,  and  planted  out  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  gladiolus  or  tigridia  and  kept 
dormant  during  the  winter  in  the  same 
manner.  This  is  a  great  mistake,  as  the 
tubers  will  not  endure  as  long  a  period  of 
rest  and  cannot  be  exposed  to  the  air  for  a 
long  time  without  seriously  injuring  their 
Double  Tuberous  Begonia  vitality.  The  tubers  must  be  kept  in  dry 
earth  or  sand,  until  they  show  signs  of  growth,  which  will 
be  not  later  than  the  first  of  March;  then  they  may  be 
started  into  rapid  growth.  After  the  eyes  are  fully  developed 
the  tubers  may  be  divided  :  each  eye  will  make  a  plant. 
Then  they  are  treated  in  all  respects  like  greenhouse  plants, 


TUBEROUS    BEGONIA  227 

and  grown  on  until  the  proper  season  for  their  planting  out. 
This  is  not  before  the  first  of  June,  as  Begonias  are  quite 
sensitive  to  cold  nights,  but  not  at  all  to  heat.  At  that 
time  the  plants  should  be  fully  6  inches  in  height  and  pro- 
portionately strong.  Such  plants  will  make  a  grand  display 
the  entire  season,  rather  delighting  in  great  heat." 

In  starting  the  tubers  in  March,  they  should  be  placed 
in  moist  sand  or  moss  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  either 
in  the  greenhouse  or  window.  After  the  buds 
are  well  started  the  tubers  may  be  divided 
as   pointed   out,   or  planted    whole.      They 
prefer   a  rich,    rather   sandy    soil.      When 
they  are  well  under  way  give  them  all  the 
light   and    air   they    will    bear,    and    keep 
them  close  to  the  glass  to  avoid  "  legginess  " 
and  to  insure  a  firm,  sturdy  growth.     A  week 
before  planting   them    out   they  should   be      Tuberous  Begonia>  single' 
given  abundance  of  air  and  light  to  "  harden  off "  the  plants 
preparatory  to  setting  them  in  sun  and  wind. 

The  beds  should  be  in  a  somewhat  sheltered  place  where 
they  will  be  partially  shaded  from  the  hot  midday  sun. 
Let  the  soil  be  well  enriched  with  old  manure  or  humus  and 
thoroughly  worked  over  to  a  depth  of  one  foot.  During  dry 
periods  the  beds  will  need  watering  from  time  to  time  ;  but 
never  water  them  when  the  sun  is  shining  full  on  them,  or 
the  foliage  may  be  scorched.  A  mulch  of  leaf -mold  or  old 
manure  will  be  helpful  in  keeping  the  soil  moist  and  the 
roots  cool. 

Before  frost  the  tubers  should  be  carefully  taken  up  and 
gradually  dried  in  the  shade,  after  which  they  are  to  be 
placed  in  dry  sand  or  earth,  in  shallow  boxes,  and  kept  till 
time  to  start  them  in  the  spring.  They  should  be  kept 
in  a  cool  place,  secure  from  frost  and  away  from  stoves  or 
heating  pipes. 

For  amateurs  it  is  better  to  recommend  buying  bulbs  of 
the  several  colors,  instead  of  attempting  to  grow  them  from 


228  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

seeds,  which  are  extremely  small  and  require  early  sowing, 
warmth  and  close  attention. 

Tulips  are  hardy  and  easy  to  grow.  The  ad- 
vice given  under  Bulbs,  Crocus  and  Hyacinth  applies  to 
Tulips.  They  may  be  forced  for  winter  bloom  (see 
under  Window  -  Gardens) .  The  garden  bed  will  last 
several  years  if  well  cared  for,  but  most  satisfactory 
bloom  is  secured  if  the  old  bulbs  are  taken  up  every 
two  or  three  years  and  replanted,  all  the  inferior  ones 
being  cast  aside.  When  the  stock  begins  to  run 
out,  buy  anew.  Plant  in  October,  4  to  6  inches 
deep. 

Turnips  and  Rutabagas  are  usually  a  fall 
crop,  from  seed  sown  in  July  and  early  August, 
although  many  kitchen  gardens  have  them  from  spring 
sown  seed.  The  culture  is  easy.  Sow  in  drills  12  inches 
apart.  They  will  become  edible  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks. 
They  are  cool-weather  crops,  and  the  tops  stand  much 
frost.  If  maggots  bother,  do  not  raise  them  on  the  same 
land  again  for  three  or  four  years.  Bordeaux  mixture 
repels  the  flea-beetles.  One  ounce  will  sow  150  feet  of 
drill. 

Varieties.  It  is  usually  one  of  the  first  desires 
of  the  intending  planter  to  inquire  about  Varieties.  It  is 
one  of  the  secondary  things  to  be  considered,  however,  for 
the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  prepare  the  land,  to  determine 
whether  one's  soil  and  site  are  adapted  to  the  plant  in  ques- 
tion, and  to  discuss  other  matters  of  a  general  nature. 
When  all  the  fundamental  things  are  settled,  then  the 
question  of  Varieties,  which  is  a  special  matter,  may  be 
taken  up.  Although  the  selection  of  Varieties  is  a  very 
special  matter,  it  is  nevertheless  essential  to  success  or 
satisfaction  in  the  growing  of  any  plant. 

It  should  first  be  considered  that  the  selection  of  Varieties 
is  very  largely  a  personal  matter.  The  man  should  grow 


VARIETIES — VEGETABLE     GARDEN  229 

the  Varieties  which  he  likes.  This  is  especially  true  in  the 
selection  of  Varieties  for  the  home  grounds,  in  which  case 
the  market  ideals  enter  very  little  into  the  problem.  Hav- 
ing satisfied  one's  own  mind  as  to  what  kinds  of  Varieties  he 
would  like,  he  may  then  inquire  of  the  neighbors  and  of  ex- 
perts if  those  Varieties  are  adapted  to  the  soil  and  climate. 
If  he  intends  to  grow  for  market,  he  should  canvass  the 
market  demands  thoroughly  before  choosing  the  Varieties. 
The  lists  of  Varieties  in  books,  bulletins,  and  seedmen's 
catalogues  are  hints,  not  rules.  As  a  general  statement,  it 
may  be  said  that  the  only  way  to  determine  the  best  variety 
for  one's  own  conditions  is  to  experiment.  There  is  intense 
satisfaction  in  the  experimenting  itself.  The  best  lists  of 
Varieties  are  those  which  are  recommended  for  some  specific 
purpose,  and  which  represent  the  combined  opinions  of  many 
expert  growers.  It  is  rare  that  one  man's  judgment  should 
be  final,  particularly  with  respect  to  fruits  or  plants  which 
are  grown  in  general  outdoor  conditions.  Under  glass  a 
gardener  can  make  his  climate  and  conditions,  and  there- 
fore he  can  adapt  his  conditions  to  his  plants.  The  experi- 
ment station  test  usually  represents  but  one  man's  opinion. 
It  may  be  a  more  valuable  opinion  than  that  of  another  man, 
but  it  is  not  final.  It  should  be  studied  in  connection  with 
other  lists,  particularly  those  made  by  practical  growers.  If 
one  desires  to  choose  Varieties,  therefore,  he  should  consult 
the  best  growers  of  those  plants  in  his  immediate  neighbor- 
hood; he  should  call  upon  the  experiment  station  of  his 
state  or  province;  and  he  should  consult  the  most  recent 
writings  on  the  subject. 

Vegetable  Garden.  It  is  one  of  the  choicest 
of  pleasures  to  raise  one's  own  vegetables.  Make  the  Vege- 
table Garden  ample,  but  economize  labor.  Plant  the  things 
in  rows,  not  in  beds.  Then  they  can  be  tilled  easily,  either 
by  horse-  or  hand-tools.  Wheel-hoes  will  accomplish  most 
of  the  labor  of  tillage  in  a  small  garden.  Have  the  rows 
long,  to  avoid  waste  of  time  in  turning  and  to  economize 


230  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

the  land.  One  row  caii  be  devoted  to  one  vegetable;  or  two 
or  more  vegetables  of  like  requirements  (as  parsnips  and 
salsify)  may  comprise  a  row.  Have  the  permanent  vegeta- 
bles, as  rhubarb  and  asparagus,  at  one  side,  where  they  will 
not  interfere  with  the  plowing  or  tilling.  The  annual  vege- 
tables should  be  grown  on  different  parts  of  the  area  in  suc- 
ceeding years,  thus  practicing  something  like  a  rotation  of 
crops.  If  radish  or  cabbage  maggots  or  club-root  become 
thoroughly  established  in  the  plantation,  omit  for  a  year  or 
more  the  vegetables  on  which  they  live. 

Make  the  soil  deep,  mellow  and  rich  before  the  seeds  are 
sown.    Time  and  labor  will  be  saved.    Rake  the  surface  fre- 
quently to  [keep  down  weeds  and  to  prevent  the    soil  from 
baking  (see  Tillage).      Eadish   seeds    sown   with   celery  or 
other  slow -germinating  seeds  will 
come    up    quickly,   breaking    the 
crust  and  marking  the  rows.  About 

the  borders  Of  the   Vegetable    Gar- 


Layout  of  a  farm  Vegetable  Garden  den  is  a  good  place  for  flowers 

to  be  grown  for  the  decoration 

of  the  house  and  to  give  to  friends.  Along  one  side  of 
the  area  rows  of  bush  fruits  may  be  planted. 

A  home  Vegetable  Garden  for  a  family  of  six  would  re- 
quire, exclusive  of  potatoes,  a  space  not  over  100  by  150 
feet.  Beginning  at  one  side  of  the  garden  and  running  the 
rows  the  short  way  (having  each  row  100  feet  long)  sowings 
may  be  made,  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  condition  to  work, 
of  the  following: 

Fifty  feet  each  of  parsnips  and  salsify. 

One  hundred  feet  of  onions,  25  feet  of  which  may  be 
potato  or  set  onions,  the  balance  black- seed  for  summer  and 
fall  use. 

Fifty  feet  of  early  beets,  50  feet  of  lettuce,  with  which 
radish  may  be  sown  to  break  the  soil  and  be  harvested  be- 
fore the  lettuce  needs  the  room. 

One  hundred  feet  of  early  cabbage,  the  plants  for  which 


VEGETABLE  GARDEN — VERBENA      231 

should  be  from  a  frame  or  purchased.  Set  the  plants  18 
inches  to  2  feet  apart. 

One  hundred  feet  of  early  cauliflower;  culture  same  as 
for  cabbage. 

Four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  peas,  sown  as  follows : 
100  feet  of  extra  early. 
100  feet  of  intermediate. 
100  feet  of  late. 

100  feet  of  extra  early,  sown  late. 
50  feet  of  dwarf  varieties. 

If  trellis  or  brush  is  to  be  avoided,  frequent  sowings  of 
the  dwarfs  will  maintain  a  supply. 

After  the  soil  has  become  warm  and  all  danger  of  frost 
has  passed,  the  tender  vegetables  may  be  planted,  as 
follows: 

Corn  in  five  rows  3  feet  apart,  three  rows  to  be  early  and 
intermediate,  and  two  rows  late. 

One  hundred  feet  of  string  beans,  early  to  late  varieties. 
Vines  as  follows  : 

10  hills  of  cucumbers,  6x6  feet. 
20  hills  of  muskmelon,  6x6  feet. 
6  hills  of  early  squash,  6x6  feet. 
10  hills  of  Hubbard,  6x6  feet. 
One  hundred  feet  of  okra. 

Twenty  eggplants.    One  hundred  ft.  (25  plants)  tomatoes. 
Six  large  clumps  of  rhubarb. 
An  asparagus  bed  25  feet  long  and  3  feet  wide. 
Late   cabbage,  cauliflower  and  celery  are  to  occupy  the 
space  made  vacant  by  removing  early  crops  of  early  and  in- 
termediate peas  and  string  beans. 

A  border  on  one  side  or  end  will  hold  all  herbs,  such  as 
parsley,  thyme,  sage,  hyssop,  mints. 

Verbena.     The   Verbena    is    one    of    the    most 

satisfactory  garden  plants,  blooming  early.  Bloom  continues 
through  the  dry,  hot  days  of  summer.  As  the  cool  weather 
of  the  fall  comes  on,  Verbenas  increase  in  size  of  plant 


232       THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN -BOOK 

and  flower  until  killed  by  severe  frost.  Plants  grown  from 
seed  sown  in  a  hotbed  or  house  early  in  the  spring,  trans- 
planted into  pots  or  boxes  when  large  enough,  and  planted 
out  as  soon  as  the  ground  has  become  warm,  are  more  vigor- 
ous and  seem  to  have  more  fragrance  than  those  grown  from 
cuttings.  Many  of  the  strains  have  become  so  well  fixed 
that  the  colors  come  true  from  seed.  Cut- 
tings are  often  employed,  but  the  handling 
of  stock  plants  is  a  difficult  matter  except 
in  the  hands  of  a  professional,  and  when 
plants  are  wanted  in  quantity  it  is  cheaper 
to  buy  them  of  the  plantsman  than  to 
grow  them  from  seed  or  attempt  to  keep 
over  stock  plants.  Therefore,  for  the  home  garden,  seed- 
grown  plants  are  usually  most  satisfactory.  Give  a  sunny 
position.  Thin  to  10  to  15  inches  apart  each  way. 

Vinca,  or  PERIWINKLE.    Trailing  plants.    Useful 

in  covering  unsightly  places,  for  vases,  urns  or  baskets. 
Some  of  the  species  (as  the  common  evergreen,  mat-like 
"running  myrtle")  are  hardy,  but  the  most  useful  ones  need 
the  protection  of  a  house  through  the  winter.  The  varie- 
gated-leaved kinds  are  fine  for  winter  decorations.  Propa- 
gated mostly  by  cuttings.  Perennials. 

Vines.  The  use  of  Vines  for  screens  and 
pillar  decorations  has  increased  in  the  last  decade  until  now 
they  may  be  seen  in  nearly  all  grounds.  The  tendency  has 
been  towards  using  the  hardy  Vines,  of  which  the  ampe- 
lopsis,  or  Virginia  creeper,  is  one  of  the  most  common.  It  is 
a  very  rapid  grower,  and  lends  itself  to  training  more  readily 
than  many  others.  The  Japan  ampelopsis  (A.  tricuspidata 
or  Veitchii)  is  a  fine  clinging  Vine,  growing  very  rapidly 
when  once  established,  and  being  brilliantly  colored  after 
the  first  fall  frosts.  It  clings  closer  than  the  other,  but  is 
not  so  hardy.  Either  of  these  may  be  grown  from  cuttings 
or  division  of  the  plants.  Two  woody  twiners  of  recent 
introduction  are  the  actinidia  and  the  akebia,  both  from 


VINES 


233 


Japan.  They  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  are  rapid  growers. 
The  former  has  large,  thick,  glossy  leaves,  not  affected  by 
insects  or  disease,  growing  thickly  along  the  stem  and 
branches,  making  a  perfect  thatch  of  leaves. 
It  blooms  in  June.  The  flowers,  which  are 
white  with  a  purple  center,  are  borne  in  clus- 
ters, followed  by  round  or  longish  edible  fruits. 
The  akebia  has  very  neat  cut  foliage,  quaint 
purple  flowers,  and  often  bears  ornamental 
fruit.  Other  hardy  Vines  are  the  wistaria, 
clematis,  tecoma  (or  trumpet-flower),  aris- 
tolochia  (or  Dutchman's  pipe),  hedera  (or  ivy), 
and  loniceras  (or  honeysuckles). 

Of  the  tender  Vines,  the  nasturtiums  and 
ipomeas  are  the  most  common,  while  the 
adlumia  (p.  3),  balloon  vine  (p.  28),  passion 
vine,  and  the  gourds  (p.  115),  are  frequently 
used.  One  of  the  best  of  recent  introduction 
is  the  annual  hop,  especially  the  variegated 
variety.  This  is  a  very  rapid  growing  Vine,  seeding  itself 
each  year,  and  needing  little  care.  See  Hop.  All  the 
tender  Vines  should  be  planted  after  all  danger  of  frost 


A  vine  support  for  a  porch 


ANNUAL   HERBACEOUS    CLIMBERS 


Tendril-climbers 
Adlumia  (biennial). 
Balloon  Vine. 
Cobea. 
Gourds. 
Nasturtiums. 
Sweet  Pea. 
Wild  Cucumber. 


Twiners 

Beans,  Flowering. 
Cypress  Vine. 
Dolichos. 
Hop,  Japanese. 
Ipomea. 
Moonflower. 
Morning-glory . 
Thunbergia. 
Yam,   Chinese,    or   Cinnamon 

Vine  (perennial  from  a  hardy 

tuber ) . 


234 


THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


PERENNIAL    WOODT   CLIMBERS   FOR   THE    OPEN 


Tendril-climbers 
Ampelopsis  tricuspidata. 
Clematis  of  many  kinds. 
Grape  of  various  kinds. 
Greenbrier. 
Ivy  (by  roots). 
Roses  (scramblers). 


Twiners 

Actinidia  polygama. 
Akebia  quinata. 
Aristolochia,    or    Dutchman's 

Pipe. 

Bittersweet,  or  Celastrus. 
Honeysuckles. 


Trumpet  Creeper  (by  roots).    Moonseed. 


Virginia  Creeper. 


Wistaria. 


Violet.  While  the  culture  of  Violets  as  house- 
plants  rarely  proves  successful,  there  is  no  reason  why  a 
good  supply  may  not  be  had  elsewhere  through  the  greater 
part  of  the  winter  and  the  spring  months.  A  sheltered  lo- 
cation being  selected,  young  plants  from  runners 
may  be  set  in  August  or  September.  Have  the 
ground  rich  and  well  drained.  These  plants  will 
make  fine  crowns  by  December,  and  often  will 
bloom  before  weather  sufficiently  cold  to  freeze 
them.  In  order  to  have  flowers  through  the 
winter,  it  will  be  necessary  to  afford  some  pro- 
tection to  the  plants.  This  may  best  be  done 
by  building  a  frame  of  boards  large  enough  to 
cover  the  plants,  making  the  frame  in  the  same 
way  as  for  a  hotbed,  four  to  six  inches  higher 
at  the  back  than  the  front.  Cover  the  frame 
with  sash  or  boards,  and  as  the  weather  be- 
comes severe,  mats  or  straw  should  be  placed  over 
and  around  the  frame  to  protect  the  plants  from 
freezing.  Whenever  the  weather  will  permit, 
the  covering  should  be  removed  and  air  admitted, 
but  no  harm  will  come  if  the  frames  are  not  dis- 
turbed for  several  weeks.  A  large  amount  of  sunlight  and 
a  high  temperature  through  the  middle  of  winter  are  to 
be  avoided,  for  if  the  plants  are  stimulated  a  shorter 


VIOLET— WALKS  235 

period  of  bloom  will  result.  In  April  the  frame  may 
be  removed,  the  plants  yielding  the  later  part  of  the  crop 
without  protection.  Violets  belong  with  the  "cool"  plants 
of  florists.  When  well  hardened  off,  considerable  frost  does 
not  harm  them.  They  should  always  be  kept  stocky.  Start  a 
new  lot  from  runner-plants  each  year.  They  thrive  in  a 
temperature  of  55°  to  65°. 

Walks.  The  place  for  a  Walk  is  where  it  is 
needed.  It  should  go  directly  between  two  points.  It  need 
not  be  straight,  but  if  it  is  curved,  the  curve  should  be 
direct.  That  is,  the  pedestrian  should  be  conscious  that  he 
is  going  in  the  direction  in  which  he  desires  to  go,  and  is 
not -making  a  detour  for  the  simple  purpose  of  following  the 
walk.  Convenience  should  be  the  first  thing  to  be  con- 
sidered. After  the  Walks  have  been  laid  in  the  most  con- 
venient places,  the  question  of  ornamenting  the  borders  may 
be  considered.  It  is  always  well  to  avoid,  so  far  as  possible, 
the  bisecting  of  lawns  by  Walks,  as  that  makes  two  lawns 
where  there  should  be  only  one.  The  larger  a  greensward 
can  be  made  to  look,  the  more  park- like  and  natural  is  the 
place.  Avoid  taking  the  Walks  circuitously  around  the 
borders  unless  they  are  laid  for  the  simple  purpose  of  mak- 
ing a  ramble  to  show  off  the  grounds.  All  Walks  which  are 
designed  for  serious  use  should  appear  to  be  necessary, 
direct  and  convenient. 

Some  soils  which  contain  considerable  loam  and  sand  will 
pack  with  tramping  and  will  make  good  Walks,  but  it  is 
usually  necessary  to  lay  some  material  on  the  soil.  Gravel, 
cinders,  and  the  like,  may  be  better  than  the  natural  sur- 
face; but  in  many  cases  they  are  worse,  since  the  surface 
is  loose  and  is  unpleasant  to  walk  on.  In  Walks  which 
are  on  decided  slopes,  and  down  which  the  water  is  likely  to 
run,  any  loose  material  is  very  objectionable,  since  it  runs  to 
the  low  places.  The  best  material  for  Walks,  all  things 
considered,  is  cement,  or  what  is  called  artificial  stone.  If 
well  made,  it  is  as  durable  as  nagging,  and  is  not  so  likely  to 


236  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

get  out  of  place.  It  holds  its  surface  perfectly  year 
after  year. 

The  only  objection  to  cement  Walks  is  when  they  are 
more  or  less  temporary,  for  in  such  cases  they  cannot  be 
moved.  There  is  often  very  serious  difficulty  in  securing 
good  cement  Walks,  but  the  difficulties  are  easily  overcome. 
They  are  chiefly  two:  there  is  not  sufficient  draining  ma- 
terial beneath  the  cement ;  and  the  cement  itself  is  not  made 
strong  enough.  There  should  be  at  least  a  foot  of  loose 
material,  as  brickbats  or  cinders,  below  the  cement  cover; 
and  if  the  place  is  low  and  likely  to  hold  water,  there  should 
be  still  greater  drainage.  Pound  the  material  down,  or  let  it 
stand  for  some  time  until  it  becomes  thoroughly  settled 
together.  Then  lay  the  cement  in  two  courses.  The  first 
course  may  be  three  or  four  inches  thick  and  made  of  well 
mixed  mortar,  comprising  three  parts  Portland  cement, 
one  part  water  lime,  and  two  to  three  times  as  much  sharp 
sand  as  Portland.  When  this  has  become  partially  hard- 
ened, but  before  it  is  set  and  while  still  moist,  put  on  a 
finishing  layer  of  one  inch,  made  of  one  part  Portland 
cement,  one  part  water  lime,  and  one  part  sharp  sand.  It  is 
important  that  the  materials  be  very  thoroughly  mixed.  See 
that  the  edges  of  the  walk  are  made  square  and  true  by  lay- 
ing down  a  form  of  boards  lengthwise  the  area  before  the 
cement  is  put  on.  The  edges  should  be  as  thick  as  the 
middle,  for  a  thin  crust  on  the  edge  tends  to  snap  off.  A 
walk  made  in  this  way  on  a  well -drained  foundation  will  last 
almost  indefinitely.  It  is  best  that  it  be  made  in  such  sea- 
son that  it  can  become  thoroughly  set  before  frosty  weather 
comes. 

Wallflower.  A  favorite  plant  for  pots  or  gar- 
den, having  a  clove -like  fragrance.  Seed  of  most  varieties 
should  be  sown  the  year  before  wanted.  One  kind,  being  an 
annual,  will  flower  the  same  season  the  seed  is  sown.  Hardy. 
Two  to  3  feet. 

Washing  orchard  trees  is  an  old  practice.     It 


WASHING— WATERING  237 

usually  results  in  making  a  tree  more  vigorous.  One  reason 
is  that  it  destroys  insects  and  fungi  which  lodge  underneath 
the  bark;  but  probably  the  chief  reason  is  that  it  softens  the 
bark  and  allows  the  trunk  to  expand.  It  is  possible,  also, 
that  the  potash  from  the  soap  or  lye  eventually  passes  into 
the  ground  and  affords  some  plant- food.  Trees  are  ordi- 
narily Washed  with  soap  suds  or  with  a  lye  solution.  The 
material  is  usually  applied  with  an  old  broom  or  a  stiff 
brush.  The  scrubbing  of  the  tree  is  perhaps  nearly  or  quite 
as  beneficial  as  the  application  of  the  wash  itself. 

It  is  customary  to  wash  trees  late  in  spring  or  early  in 
summer,  and  again  in  the  fall,  with  the  idea  that  such  Wash- 
ing destroys  the  eggs  and  the  young  of  borers.  It  no  doubt 
will  destroy  borers  if  they  are  just  getting  a  start,  but  it  will 
not  keep  away  the  insects  which  lay  the  eggs,  and  will  not 
destroy  the  borers  which  have  found  their  way  underneath 
the  bark.  It  is  perhaps  quite  as  well  to  wash  the  trees  very 
early  in  the  spring,  when  they  are  starting  into  growth.  It 
is  an  old  practice  to  wash  trees  with  strong  lye  when  they 
are  affected  with  the  oyster- shell  bark  louse.  The  modern 
method  of  treating  these  pests,  however,  is  to  spray  with 
some  kerosene  compound  when  the  young  growth  is  starting, 
for  at  that  time  the  young  insects  are  migrating  to  the  new 
wood  and  they  are  very  easily  destroyed. 

Watering  House  Plants.  It  is  impossible  to 
give  rules  for  the  Watering  of  plants.  Conditions  that  hold 
with  one  grower  are  different  from  those  of  another.  Advice 
must  be  general.  Give  one  good  Watering  at  the  time  of 
potting,  after  which  no  water  should  be  given  until  the  plants 
really  need  it.  If,  on  tapping  the  pot,  it  gives  out  a  clear 
ring,  it  is  an  indication  that  water  is  needed.  In  the  case  of 
a  soft-wooded  plant,  just  before  the  leaves  begin  to  show 
signs  of  wilt,  is  the  time  for  Watering.  When  plants  are 
taken  up  from  the  ground,  or  when  plants  have  their  roots 
cut  back  in  repotting,  gardeners  rely,  after  the  first  copious 
Watering,  on  syringing  the  tops  of  the  plants  two  or  three 


238  THE    PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

times  each  day,  until  a  new  root-growth  has  started,  Watering 
at  the  roots  only  when  absolutely  necessary.  Plants  that 
have  been  potted  into  larger  pots  will  grow  without  the  extra 
attention  of  syringing,  but  those  from  the  borders,  that  have 
had  their  roots  mutilated  or  shortened,  should  be  placed  in  a 
cool,  shady  spot  and  be  syringed  often.  One 
soon  becomes  familiar  with  the  wants  of  indi- 
vidual plants,  and  can  judge  closely  as  to  need 
of  water.  All  soft-wooded  plants  with  a  large 
leaf -surf  ace  need  more  water  than  hard- wooded 
plants,  and  a  plant  in  luxuriant  growth  of  any 
kind  more  than  a  plant  that  has  been  cut  back 
or  become  defoliated.  When  plants  are  grown  in  living- 
rooms,  moisture  must  be  supplied  from  some  source,  and  if 
no  arrangement  has  been  made  for  having  a  moist  air  the 
plants  should  be  syringed  often.  See  Syringing. 

Watermelon.  The  culture  of  this  is  essen- 
tially the  same  as  that  for  muskmelons  (which  see),  except 
that  most  varieties  require  a  warmer  place  and  longer  period 
of  growth.  Give  the  hills  a  distance  of  from  6  to  10  feet 
apart.  Choose  a  warm,  "quick"  soil  and  sunny  exposure. 
It  is  essential,  in  the  North,  that  the  plants  grow  rapidly  and 
come  into  bloom  early.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  plant 
thirty  hills. 

Wax  Plant.  The  Wax  Plant,  or  HOYA,  is 
one  of  the  commonest  of  window-garden  plants,  and  yet  it 
is  one  which  people  usually  have  difficulty  in  flowering. 
However,  it  is  one  of  the  easiest  plants  to  manage  if  a  per- 
son understands  its  nature.  It  is  naturally  a  summer-bloom- 
ing plant,  and  should  rest  during  the  winter  time.  In  the 
winter,  keep  it  just  alive  in  a  cool  and  rather  dry  place.  If 
the  temperature  does  not  go  above  50°  Fahr.,  so  much 
the  better;  neither  should  it  go  much  lower.  In  late  winter 
or  spring,  the  plant  is  brought  out  to  warm  temperature, 
given  water  and  started  into  growth.  The  old  flower-stems 


WAX    PLANT— WINDBREAKS 


239 


Potato  hook  and 
weed-puller 


should  not  be  cut  off,  since  new  flowers  come  from  them  as 
well  as  from  the  new  wood.     When  it  is  brought  out  to  be 
started  into  growth,  it  may  be  repotted,  sometimes  into  a 
size  larger  pot,  but  always  with  more  or  less  fresh  earth. 
The  plant  should   increase  in  value  each  year.      In 
conservatories,  it  is    sometimes    planted   out    in  the 
ground    and   allowed   to  run   over  a  wall,    in    which 
case  it  will  reach  a  height  of  many  feet. 

Weeds.  Many  very  strong  Weeds 
are  a  compliment  to  one's  soil:  only  good  soil 
produces  them.  But  they  are  not  a  compli- 
ment to  one's  tillage.  If  the  soil  is  well  pre- 
pared and  well  tilled  to  conserve  moisture  and 

to  unlock  plant-food  (see  Tillage],  Weeds  will 
find  little  chance  of  growing.  Stir  the  ground 
often:  it  benefits  the  ground  and  keeps  out 
;the  Weeds.  Plant  vegetables  in  long  straight 
rows  rather  than  in  beds,  for  thereby  tillage  is 
made  easier.  .  For  beds  and  for  small  plants, 
the  hand-weeders  (as  shown  in  the  margin)  are  very  effi- 
cient. They  save  laborious  finger- work.  Weed  seeds  are 
often  distributed  in  manure,  especially  if  Weeds  have  been 
allowed  to  grow  and  ripen  on  the  piles.  See 
that  pernicious  Weeds  do  not  seed  about  the 
premises.  For  the  treatment  of  weedy  lawns, 
see  the  article  Lawns. 

Windbreaks.  There  is  the  greatest 
difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  value  of  Wind- 
breaks for  fruit  plantations.  These  differ- 
ences arise  from  the  fact  that  a  Windbreak 
may  be  of  great  benefit  in  one  place,  but  a  disadvantage 
in  another.  It  is  always  advisable  to  break  the  force  of 
very  strong  winds,  for  such  winds  tend  to  injure  the  trees 
when  laden  with  fruit  or  ice,  and  they  blow  off  the  fruit; 
and  in  dry  countries  they  cause  the  soil  to  become  parched. 
If  the  wind  is  usually  warmer  than  the  area,  however,  par- 


Finger-weeder 


Trowel  and  angle-weeder 


240  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

ticularly  in  the  winter  time,  it  is  better  not  to  stop  it,  but  to 
allow  it  to  circulate  through  the  plantation.  This  is  the  case 
in  areas  which  lie  close  to  large  bodies  of  water.  The  wind 
coming  off  the  water  is  warmer  than  that  off  the  land,  and 
tends  thereby  to  protect  the  fruit  plantation  from  severe  cold. 
A  circulation  of  air  is  desirable  in  late  spring  and  early  fall 
in  order  to  avoid  the  still  frosts.  Therefore,  if  the  area  is 
very  closely  surrounded  by  dense  plantations,  it  may  have 
what  the  fruit-growers  call  "stagnant  air;"  but  thinning  out 
the  Windbreak  on  one  or  two  sides,  or  cutting  holes  through 
it,  may  allow  the  air  to  move  through,  thereby  affording  at- 
mospheric drainage  and  insuring  greater  immunity  from 
the  light  local  frosts. 

It  is  ordinarily  better  to  break  the  force  of  the  winds  than 
to  stop  or  deflect  them.  That  is,  the  Windbreak  may  be  thin 
enough  to  allow  the  wind  to  take  its  normal  direction,  but  its 
force  is  broken.  A  stone  wall  or  a  very  dense  hedge  of 
evergreens  may  cause  the  wind  to  rise  over  the  plantation  or 
to  be  deflected  to  one  side;  and  this,  in  many  cases,  as  al- 
ready said,  may  be  a  decided  disadvantage.  The  philosophy  of 
a  good  Windbreak  for  fruit  plantations  may  be  summed  up  in 
this  way:  the  force  of  heavy  winds  should  be  broken; 
warm  winds  should  be  allowed  to  circulate  freely  through 
the  plantation;  still  air  should  be  avoided. 

Ordinarily,  one  or  two  rows  of  deciduous  trees  are  suffi- 
cient protection.  When  the  plantation  is  very  much  ex- 
posed to  very  cold  or  land  winds,  a  thick  evergreen  screen 
may  be  a  decided  advantage.  It  is  usually  better  to  have 
the  heavy  Windbreak  on  the  upper  side  of  the  area,  so  that  it 
may  not  interfere  with  the  natural  drainage  of  the  cold  air 
down  the  slope.  In  making  a  Windbreak,  it  is  important 
that  those  trees  be  chosen  which  will  not  become  harboring 
places  for  orchard  enemies.  The  wild  cherry,  for  example, 
is  inveterately  attacked  by  the  tent  caterpillar,  and  the  wild 
crabs  and  wild  plums  are  likely  to  breed  orchard  insects.  If 
the  Windbreak  is  planted  some  time  in  advance  of  the 


WINDBREAKS — WINDOW -GARDENS  241 

orchard,  the  row  of  fruit  trees  next  the  Windbreak  will  be 
very  likely  to  suffer  from  lack  of  moisture  and  food. 

A  different  type  of  Windbreak  is  that  which  is  desired  for 
a  shelter  belt  about  the  home  grounds.  The  matter  of  at- 
mospheric drainage  does  not  enter  into  this  problem  to  any 
great  extent.  Such  shelter  belt  is  usually  placed  at  the  ex- 
treme edge  of  the  home  yard,  toward  the  heaviest  or  pre- 
vailing wind.  It  may  be  a  dense  plantation  of  evergreens. 
If  so,  the  Norway  spruce  is  one  of  the  best  for  general  pur- 
poses. For  a  lower  belt,  the  arborvitse  is  excellent.  Some 
of  the  pines,  as  the  Scotch  or  Austrian,  are  also  to  be  ad- 
vised, particularly  if  the  belt  is  at  some  distance  from  the 
residence.  As  a  rule,  the  coarser  the  tree  the  farther  it 
should  be  placed  from  the  house. 

Persons  may  desire  to  use  the  Windbreak  as  a  screen  to 
hide  undesirable  objects.  If  these  objects  are  of  a  perma- 
nent character,  as  a  barn  or  an  unkempt  property,  evergreen 
trees  should  be  used.  For  temporary  screens,  any  of  the 
very  large -growing  herbaceous  plants  may  be  used.  Very 
excellent  subjects  are  sunflowers,  the  large -growing  nico- 
tianas,  castor  beans,  large  varieties  of  Indian  corn,  and 
plants  of  like  growth.  Very  efficient  summer  screens  may 
be  made  with  ailanthus,  paulownia,  basswood,  sumac,  and 
other  plants  which  tend  to  throw  up  succulent  shoots  from 
the  base.  After  these  plants  have  been  set  a  year  or  two, 
they  are  cut  back  nearly  to  the  ground  every  winter  or 
spring,  and  strong  shoots  are  thrown  up  with  great  luxu- 
riance during  the  summer,  giving  a  dense  screen  and  pre- 
senting a  semi-tropical  effect.  For  such  purposes,  the  roots 
should  be  planted  only  two  or  three  feet  apart.  If,  after  a 
time,  the  roots  become  so  crowded  that  the  shoots  are  weak, 
some  of  the  plants  may  be  removed.  Top-dressing  the  area 
every  fall  with  manure  will  tend  to  make  the  ground  rich 
enough  to  afford  a  very  heavy  summer  growth. 

Wind  Flower.     See  Anemone. 
Window-Gardens.       The    Summer      Window- 


242 


THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 


Garden. — This  type  of  gardening  is  particularly  suited  to 
those  who  live  in  the  crowded  city,  where  the  want  of  other 
space  makes  the  Window-Garden  the  only  one  possible. 

Handsomely    finished    boxes,    ornamental    tiling,    and 
bracket  work  of  wood  and  iron  suitable  for  fitting  out  win- 
dows for  the  growing  of  plants,  are  on  the  market ;  but  such, 
while  desirable,  are  by  no  means  necessary.     A  stout  pine 
box  of  a  length  corresponding  to  the  width  of 
the  window,  about  10  inches  wide  and  6  deep, 
answers  quite  as  well  as  a  finer  box,  since  it 
will  likely  be  some  distance  above  the  street 
and  its  sides,  moreover,  are  soon  covered  by  the 
vines.      A  zinc  tray  of   a  size  to  fit  into  the 
wooden   box  may  be  ordered  of  the   tinsmith. 
It  will  tend  to  keep  the  soil  from  drying  out  so 
rapidly,  but  it  is  not  a  necessity.     A  few  small 
holes  in  the   bottom  of  the    box  will    provide 
Asum^eT^dowiedge    for  drainage;    but  with  carefulness  in  water- 
ing these  are  not  necessary,  since  the  box  by 
its  exposed  position    will   dry  out  readily  during   summer 
weather,   unless   the    position  is    a    shaded    one.      In    the 
latter  case  provision  for  good  drainage  is  always  advisable. 

Since  there  is  more  or  less  cramping  of  roots,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  make  the  soil  richer  than  would  be  required 
were  the  plants  to  grow  in  the  garden.  The  most  desirable 
soil  is  one  that  does  not  pack  hard  like  clay,  nor  contract 
much  when  dry,  but  remains  porous  and  springy.  Such  a 
soil  is  found  in  the  potting  soil  used  by  florists,  and  it  may 
be  obtained  from  them  at  from  50  cts.  to  $1  a  barrel.  Often 
the  nature  of  the  soil  will  be  such  as  to  make  it  desirable 
to  have  at  hand  a  barrel  of  sharp  sand  for  mixing  with  the 
soil,  to  make  it  more  porous  and  prevent  baking. 

Some  pot  the  plants  and  then  set  them  in  the  window- 
box,  filling  the  spaces  between  the  pots  with  moist  moss. 
Again,  they  are  planted  directly  in  the  soil.  The  former 
method,  as  a  general  rule,  is  to  be  preferred  in  the  winter 
Window-Garden;  the  latter  during  the  summer. 


WINDOW -GARDENS  243 

The  plants  most  valuable  for  the  purpose  are  those  of 
drooping  habit,  such  as  lobelias,  tropseolums,  Othonna 
crassifolia,  Kenil worth  ivy,  and  sweet  alyssum.  Such 
plants  may  occupy  the  front  row,  while  back  of  them  may  be 
the  erect-growing  plants,  like  geraniums,  heliotropes, 
begonias,  etc. 

Just  what  plants  will  be  most  suitable  will  depend  on 
the  exposure.  For  the  shady  side  of  the  street,  the  more 
delicate  kinds  of  plants  may  be  used.  For  full  exposure  to 
the  sun,  it  will  be  necessary  to  select  the  more  vigorous - 
growing  kinds.  In  the  latter  position,  suitable  plants  for 
drooping  would  be:  *tropseolums,  *passhloras,  the  single 
petunias,  sweet  alyssum,  lobelias,  verbenas,  mesembry- 
anthemums.  For  erect-growing  plants:  geraniums,  helio- 
tropes, etc.  If  the  position  is  a  shaded  one,  the  drooping 
plants  might  be  of  the  following  :  tradescantia,  Kenilworth 
ivy,  *senecio  or  parlor  ivy,  sedums,  ^moneywort,  vinca, 
*smilax,  *lygodium  or  climbing  fern.  Erect-growing 
plants  would  be  draceenas,  palms,  ferns,  coleus,  centaurea, 
spotted  calla,  and  others. 

For  shady  situations  the  main  dependence  is  upon  plants 
of  graceful  form  or  handsome  foliage ;  while  for  the  sunny 
window  the  selection  may  be  of  blooming  plants.  Of  the 
plants  above  mentioned  for  these  two  positions,  those 
marked  with  an  asterisk  (*)  are  of  climbing  habit,  and  may 
be  trained  up  about  the  sides  of  the  window.  Others  will  be 
found  among  the  climbing  plants  mentioned  under  Vines, 
Annuals  and  Basket  Plants. 

After  the  plants  have  filled  the  earth  with  roots,  it  will  be 
desirable  to  give  the  surface  of  the  soil  among  the  plants  a 
very  light  sprinkling  of  bone-dust  or  a  thicker  coating  of 
rotted  manure  from  time  to  time  during  the  summer;  or  in- 
stead of  this,  a  watering  with  weak  liquid  manure  about 
once  a  week.  This  is  not  necessary,  however,  until  the 
growth  shows  that  the  roots  have  about  exhausted  the  soil. 

In  the  fall  the  box  may  be  placed  on  the  inside  of  the 


244  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

window.  In  this  case  it  will  be  desirable  to  thin  out  the 
foliage  somewhat,  shorten  in  some  of  the  vines,  and  per- 
haps remove  some  of  the  plants.  It  will  also  be  desirable  to 
give  a  fresh  coating  of  rich  soil.  Increased  care  will  be 
necessary,  also,  in  watering,  since  the  plants  will  have  less 
light  than  previously,  and,  moreover,  there  may  be  no  pro- 
vision for  drainage. 

The  Winter  Window-Garden  may  consist  simply  of  a  jar- 
diniere, or  a  few  choice  pot-plants  on  a  stand  at  the  window, 
or  of  a  considerable  collection,  with  more  or  less  elaborate 
arrangements  for  their  accommodation  in  the  way  of  box, 
brackets,  shelves  and  stands.  Expensive  arrangements 
are  by  no  means  necessary,  nor  is  a  large  collection.  The 
plants  and  flowers  themselves  are  the  main  consideration, 
and  a  small  collection  well  cared  for  is  better  than  a  large 
one  unless  it  can  be  easily  accommodated  and  kept  in 
good  condition. 

The  window  for  plants  should  have  a  southern,  south- 
eastern or  eastern  exposure.  Plants  need  all  the  light  they 
can  get  in  the  winter,  especially  those  which  are  ex- 
pected to  bloom.  The  window  should  be  tight-fitting. 
Shutters  and  a  curtain  will  be  an  advantage  in  cold 
weather. 

Plants  like  a  certain  uniformity  in  conditions.  It  is  very 
trying  on  them,  and  often  fatal  to  success,  to  have  them  snug 
and  warm  one  night  and  shivering  in  a  temperature  only 
a  few  degrees  above  freezing  the  next.  Some  plants  will 
live  in  spite  of  it,  but  they  cannot  be  expected  to  prosper. 
Those  whose  rooms  are  heated  with  steam,  hot  water  or  hot 
air  will  have  to  guard  against  keeping  ro.oms  too  warm 
fully  as  much  as  keeping  them  too  cool.  Rooms  in  brick 
dwellings  that  have  been  warm  all  day,  if  shut  up  and  made 
snug  in  the  evening  will  often  keep  warm  over  night  with- 
out heat  except  in  the  coldest  weather.  Booms  in  frame 
dwellings,  and  exposed  on  all  sides,  soon  cool  down. 

It  is  difficult  to  grow  plants  in  rooms  lighted  by  gas,  as 


WINDOW  -  GARDENS  245 

the  burning  gas  vitiates  the  atmosphere.  Most  living-rooms 
have  too  dry  air  for  plants.  In  such  cases  the  bow  window 
may  be  set  off  from  the  room  by  glass  doors ;  one  then  has  a 
miniature  conservatory. 

While  keeping  the  plants  at  a  suitable  temperature,  we 
must  not  forget  that  plants  love  moisture,  or  a  humid  atmos- 
phere, and,  that  our  living-rooms  ordinarily  are  very  dry.  A 
pan  of  water  on  the  stove  or  on  the  register  and  damp  moss 
among  the  pots,  will  afford  plants  the  necessary  humidity. 

The  foliage  will  need  cleansing  from  time  to  time  to  free 
it  from  dust.  A  bath  tub  provided  with 
a  ready  outlet  for  the  water  is  an  excel- 
lent place  for  this  purpose.  The  plants 
may  be  turned  on  their  sides  and  sup- 
ported on  a  small  box  above  the  bottom 
of  the  tub.  Then  they  may  be  freely 
syringed  without  danger  of  making  the 
soil  too  wet.  It  is  usually  advisable  not 
to  wet  the  flowers,  however,  especially 
the  white  waxen  kinds,  like  hyacinths. 
The  foliage  of  Rex  begonias  should  be 
cleansed  with  a  piece  of  dry  or  only  A  window-box 

slightly  moist  cotton.     But  if  the  leaves 
can  be  quickly  dried  off  by  placing  them  in   the  open  air 
on  mild  days,  or  moderately  near  the  stove,  the  foliage  may 
be  syringed. 

The  window-box  in  the  room  will  be  seen  near  at  hand, 
so  may  be  more  or  less  ornamental  in  character.  The  sides 
may  be  covered  with  ornamental  tile  held  in  place  by  mould- 
ing; or  a  light  lattice-work  of  wood  surrounding  the  box 
is  pretty.  But  a  neatly  made  and  strong  box  of  about  the 
dimensions  mentioned  on  page  242,  with  a  strip  of  moulding 
at  the  top  and  bottom,  answers  just  as  well ;  and  if  painted 
green,  or  some  neutral  shade,  only  the  plants  will  be  seen  or 
thought  of.  Brackets,  jardinieres  and  stands  may  be  pur- 
chased of  any  of  the  larger  florists. 


246  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

The  window-box  may  consist  of  merely  the  wooden  box: 
but  a  preferable  arrangement  is  to  make  it  about  eight 
inches  deep  instead  of  six,  then  have  the  tinsmith  make  a 
zinc  tray  to  fit  the  box.  This  is  provided  with  a  false 
wooden  bottom,  with  cracks  for  drainage,  two  inches 
above  the  real  bottom  of  the  tray.  The  plants  will  then 
have  a  vacant  space  below  them  into  which  drainage  water 
may  pass.  Such  a  box  may  be  thoroughly  watered  as  the 
plants  require  without  danger  of  the  water  running  on  the 
carpet.  Of  course,  a  faucet  should  be  provided  at  some 
suitable  point  on  a  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  tray,  to 
permit  of  its  being  drained  every  day  or  so  if  the  water 
tends  to  accumulate.  It  would  not  do  to  allow  the  water  to 
remain  long;  especially  should  it  never  rise  to  the  false 
bottom,  as  then  the  soil  would  be  kept  too  wet. 

Some  persons  attach  the  box  to  the  window,  or  support  it 
on  brackets  attached  below  the  window-sill;  but  a  prefer- 
able arrangement  is  to  support  the  box  on  a  low  and  light 
stand  of  suitable  height  provided  with  rollers.  It  may  then 
be  drawn  back  from  the  window,  turned  around  from  time  to 
time  to  give  the  plants  light  on  all  sides,  or  turned  with  the 
handsome  side  in  as  may  be  desired,  and  so  on. 

Often  the  plants  are  set  directly  in  the  soil ;  but  if  they 
are  kept  in  pots  they  may  be  rearranged,  changed  about  to 
give  those  which  need  it  more  light,  etc.  Larger  plants 
which  are  to  stand  on  shelves  or  brackets  may  be  in  porous 
earthenware  pots ;  but  the  smaller  ones  which  are  to  fill  the 
window-box  may  be  placed  in  heavy  paper  pots.  The  sides 
of  these  are  flexible,  and  the  plants  in  them  therefore  may 
be  crowded  close  together  with  great  economy  in  space. 
When  pots  are  spaced,  damp  sphagnum  or  other  moss  among 
them  will  hold  them  in  place,  keep  the  soil  from  drying  out 
too  rapidly,  and  at  the  same  time  give  off  moisture,  so 
grateful  to  the  foliage. 

In  addition  to  the  stand,  or  box,  a  bracket  for  one  or 
more  pots  on  either  side  of  the  window,  about  one -third  or 


WINDOW -GARDENS  247 

half  way  up,  will  be  desirable.  The  bracket  should  turn  on 
a  basal  hinge  or  pivot,  to  admit  of  swinging  it  forward  or 
backward.  These  bracket  plants  usually  suffer  for  moisture, 
and  are  rather  difficult  to  manage. 

Florists  now  usually  grow  plants  suitable  for  Window- 
Gardens  and  winter  flowering,  and  any  intelligent  florist,  if 
asked,  will  take  pleasure  in  making  out  a  suitable  collec- 
tion. The  plants  should  be  ordered  early  in  the  fall;  the 
florist  will  then  not  be  so  crowded  for  time  and  can  give  the 
matter  better  attention. 

Most  of  the  plants  suitable  for  the  winter  Window- Garden 
belong  to  the  groups  which  florists  grow  in  their  medium  and 
cool  houses.  The  former  are  given  a  night  temperature  of 
about  60°,  the  latter  about  50°.  In  each  case  the  temperature 
is  10  to  15°  higher  for  the  daytime.  Five  degrees  of  varia- 
tion below  these  temperatures  will  be  allowable  without  any 
injurious  effects;  even  more  may  be  borne,  but  not  without 
more  or  less  check  to  the  plants.  In  bright,  sunny  weather 
the  day  temperature  may  be  higher  than  in  cloudy  and 
dark  weather. 


PLANTS   FOR   AN   AVERAGE    NIGHT   TEMPERATURE 
OF   6CP 

Upright  flowering  plants. — Abutilons,  browallias,  cal- 
ceolaria "Lincoln  Park,"  begonias,  bouvardias,  euphorbias, 
scarlet  sage,  richardia  or  calla,  heliotropes,  fuchsias, 
Chinese  hibiscus,  jasmines,  single  petunias,  swainsona, 
billbergia,  freesias,  geraniums,  cupheas. 

Upright  foliage  plants. — Muehlenbeckia,  Cycas  revoluta, 
Draccena  fragrans  and  others,  palms,  cannas,  Farfugium 
grande,  achyranthes,  ferns,  araucaria,  epiphyllums,  pan- 
danus  or  "screw  pine,"  Pilea  arborea,  Ficus  elastica, 
Grevillea  robusta. 

Climbing  plants. — Asparagus  tenuissimus,  A.  plumosus. 
Cobcea  scandens,  smilax,  Japanese  hop,  Madeira  vine  (Bous- 


248  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

singaultia),  Senecio  mikanioides  and  S.  macroglossus  (parlor 
ivies).  See  also  list  below. 

Low  -growing,  trailing,  or  drooping  plants. — These  maybe 
used  for  baskets  and  edgings.  Flowering  kinds  are:  Sweet 
alyssum,  lobelia,  Fuchsia  procumbens,  mesembryanthemum, 
Oxalis  pendula,  O.  floribunda  and  others,  Russelia  juncea, 
Mahernia  odorata  or  honey-bell. 

Foliage  plants  of  drooping  habit. — Vincas,  Saxifraga  sar- 
mentosa,  Kenilworth  ivy,  tradescantia  or  Wandering  Jew, 
*Festuca  glauca,  othonna,  *Isolepsis  gracilis,  English  ivy, 
Selaginella  denticulata  and  others.  Some  of  these  plants 
flower  quite  freely,  but  the  flowers  are  small  and  of  sec- 
ondary consideration.  Those  with  an  asterisk  (*)  droop  but 
slightly. 

PLANTS   FOR   AN   AVERAGE   NIGHT   TEMPERATURE 
OF   50° 

Upright  flowering  plants. — Azaleas,  cyclamens,  carna- 
tions, chrysanthemums,  geraniums,  Chinese  primroses, 
stevia,  marguerite  or  Paris  daisy,  single  petunias,  Anthemis 
coronaria,  camellias,  ardisia  (berries'),  cineraria,  violets, 
hyacinths,  narcissus,  tulips,  the  Easter  lily  when  in  bloom, 
and  others. 

Upright  foliage  plants. — Pittosporum,  palms,  aucuba, 
euonymus  (golden  and  silvery  variegated),  araucaria,  pan- 
danus,  dusty  miller. 

Climbing  plants. — English  ivy,  maurandia,  senecio  or 
parlor  ivy,  lygodium  (climbing  fern). 

Drooping  or  trailing  plants. — Flowering  kinds  are :  Sweet 
alyssum,  Mahernia  odorata,  Eusselia  and  ivy  geranium. 

Bulbs  in  the  Window -Garden. —  The  single  Roman  hya- 
cinth is  an  excellent  house  plant.  Its  flowers  are  small,  but 
they  are  graceful  and  especially  well  suited  for  cutting.  The 
bulbs  are  easily  forced,  and  are  managed  like  other  hya- 
cinths. The  secret  of  forcing  the  Dutch  bulbs  and  most 
others  is  to  pot  them  and  then,  after  watering  the  pots, 


WINDOW  -  GARDENS 


249 


set  them  away  in  a  cool,  dark  place  until  the  pot  is  filled 

with  roots.     They  may  be  placed  in  the  cellar  "to  root  up," 

or  be  buried  3  or  4  inches  deep  in  the  soil.     It   is  well  to 

delay  potting   them   until  such  time  as 

they   can    be   kept   cool   while    forming 

their  roots.     A  temperature  of  about  40° 

to  45°  suits  them  during  this  period.     In 

most  cases  it  is  well  to  select  pots  5  or  6 

inches  in  diameter  and  place  from  three 

to  six  bulbs  in  a  pot,  according  to  the 

size  of  the  bulbs   and   the   plants.     The 

pot  having  been  filled  with  soil,  it  is  only 

necessary  to    press   them  down   till   the 

tip,    or    about    one-fourth,   shows  above 

the  soil.     After  this  a  slight  jarring  or 

sharp  rap  will  settle  the  soil.     They  are 

then  watered  and  set    away,    as    before 

mentioned.     If  kept  dark  and  cool  they 

will   need    110  more  watering   until   they 

are  brought   out    and   begin    to    grow,  when  they  may  be 

watered  freely. 

Hyacinths,  tulips  and  narcissus  all  require  about  the 
same  treatment.  When  well  rooted,  which  will  be  in  six  or 
eight  weeks,  they  are  brought  out  and  given  a  temperature 
of  some  55°  to  60°  till  the  flowers  appear,  when  they  should 
be  kept  in  a  cooler  temperature,  say  50°. 

The  Easter  lily  is  managed  the  same  way,  only,  to  hasten 
its  flowers,  it  should  be  kept  at  not  lower  than  60°  at 
night.  Warmer  will  be  better.  Lilies  may  be  covered  an 
inch  or  more  deep. 

Freesias  may  be  potted  six  or  more  in  a  pot  of  mellow 
soil,  and  then  started  into  growth  at  once.  At  first  they 
might  be  given  a  night  temperature  of  50°,  and  55°  to  60° 
when  they  have  begun  to  grow. 

Bulbs  like  the  snowdrep  and  crocus  are  planted  several 
or  a  dozen  in  a  pot  and  buried,  or  treated  like  hyacinths; 


Window-gard  en 


250  THE     PRACTICAL    GARDEN -BOOK 

but  they  are  very  sensitive  to  heat,  and  require  only  to  be 
given  the  light  when  they  have  started  to  grow,  without  any 
forcing.  Forty  to  45°  will  be  as  warm  as  they  ever  need  be 
kept.  See  the  article  on  Bulbs;  also,  the  advice  given  for 
the  various  plants  under  their  respective  names. 

Pests. — Window-Garden  pests  are  discussed  under  Insects. 

Winter-killing  is  induced  by  a  late  fall  growth, 
and  also  by  a  dry,  unprotected  soil.  All  tender  woody  plants 
should  be  well  ripened  before  cold  weather  comes:  cease 
tillage  early:  do  not  apply  stimulating  manures  late  in  the 
season.  Mulch  all  tender  or  half  hardy  plants  (see  Mulch}. 
Even  hardy  plants  are  benefited  by  a  mulch.  When  pos- 
sible, it  is  better  to  bend  plants  to  the  ground  and  cover 
them  than  to  wrap  them  up  as  they  stand ;  but  this  cannot 
be  done  with  tall  or  stiff  subjects.  Wrapping  in  straw  or 
burlaps  affords  excellent  protection,  but  it  is  possible  to 
wrap  too  heavily.  A  barrel,  less  the  heads,  may  be  set  over 
small  plants  and  then  filled  with  leaves  or  other  loose  litter ; 
or  a  cylinder  of  wire  chicken -screen  may  be  substituted  for 
the  barrel.  Remove  the  protection  in  the  spring  before  the 
bud's  start.  See  that  mice  do  not  nest  in  the  barrel  or 
in  the  mulch. 

Zinnia.  Showy  hardy  annuals.  The  old  for- 
mal type  of  Zinnias  has  given  place  to  a  race  of  freer  forms 
which  are  excellent  plants  either  for  color  effect  or  for 
cutting.  The  colors  have  been  varied  and  brightened,  the 
flowers  doubled  and  the  plants  dwarfed.  Seed  should  be 
sown  in  a  hotbed  or  house  in  March,  transplanted  once  at 
least  before  planting  out,  and  set  in  well  enriched  soil.  Or, 
the  seed  may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow.  The 
tall  varieties  (3  feet)  should  stand  18  to  24  inches  apart. 
These  are  best  for  masses  at  a  distance. 


The  Best  and  Newest 
Rural  Books 


BOOKS  ON  LEADING  TOPICS 
CONNECTED  WITH  AGRI- 
CULTURAL AND  RURAL 
LIFE  ARE  HERE  MENTIONED. 
EACH  BOOK  IS  THE  WORK 
OF  A  SPECIALIST,  UNDER  THE 
EDITORIAL  SUPERVISION  OF 
PROFESSOR  L.  H.  BAILEY,  OF 
THE  CORNELL  UNIVERSITY, 
OR  BY  PROFESSOR  BAILEY 
HIMSELF,  AND  IS  READABLE, 
CLEAR-CUT  AND  PRACTICAL. 


THE   RURAL. SCIENCE   SERIES 

Includes  books  which  state  the  underlying  principles 
of  agriculture  in  plain  language.  They  are  suitable 
for  consultation  alike  by  the  amateur  or  professional 
tiller  of  the  soil,  the  scientist  or  the  student,  and  are 
freely  illustrated  and  finely  made. 

The  following  volumes  are  now  ready: 

THE  SOIL.  By  F.  H.  KING,  of  the  University  of  Wisconsin.  303  pp.  45 
illustrations.  75  cents. 

THE  FERTILITY  OF  THE  LAND.  By  I.  P.  ROBERTS,  of  Cornell  Univer- 
sity. 421  pp.  45  illustrations.  $1.25. 

THE  SPRAYING  OF  PLANTS.  By  E.  G.  LODEMAN,  late  of  Cornell  Uni- 
versity. 399  pp.  92  illustrations.  $1.00. 

MILK  AND  ITS  PRODUCTS.  By  H.  H.  WING,  of  Cornell  University, 
311  pp.  43  illustrations.  $1.00. 

THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  FRUIT-GROWING.  By  L.  H.  BAILEY.  516  pp. 
120  illustrations.  $1.25. 

BUSH-FRUITS.  By  F.  W.  CARD,  of  Rhode  Island  College  of  Agriculture 
and  Mechanic  Arts.  537  pp.  113  illustrations.  $1.50. 

FERTILIZERS.  By  E.  B.  VOORHEES,  of  New  Jersey  Experiment  Station. 
332  pp.  $1.00. 

THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  AGRICULTURE.  By  L.  H.  BAILEY.  300  pp.  92 
illustrations.  $1.25. 

IRRIGATION  AND  DRAINAGE.  By  F.  H.  KING,  University  of  Wisconsin. 
502  pp.  163  illustrations.  $1.50.  - 

THE  FARMSTEAD.     By  I.  P.  ROBERTS.    350pp.    138  illustrations.    $1.25. 

RURAL  WEALTH  AND  WELFARE.  By  GEORGE  T.  FAIRCHILD,  Ex-Presi- 
dent of  the  Agricultural  College  of  Kansas.  381  pp.  14  charts.  $1.25. 

THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  VEGETABLE-GARDENING.  By  L.  H.  BAILEY. 
468  pp.  144  illustrations.  $1.25. 

THE  FEEDING  OF  ANIMALS.  By  W.  H.  JORDAN,  of  New  York  State 
Experiment  Station.  450  pp.  $1.25  net. 

FARM  POULTRY.  By  GEORGE  C.  WATSON,  of  Pennsylvania  State  College. 
341  pp.  $1.25  net. 

THE  FARMER'S  BUSINESS  HANDBOOK.  By  I.  P.  ROBERTS,  of  Cornell 
University.  300  pp.  $1.00  net. 

THE  CARE  OF  ANIMALS.  By  NELSON  S.  MAYO,  of  Kansas  State  Agri- 
cultural College.  458  pp.  $1.25 .net. 

New  volumes  will  be  added  from  time  to  time  to 
the  RURAL  SCIENCE  SERIES.  The  following  are  in 
preparation : 

PHYSIOLOGY  OF  PLANTS.    By  .T.  C.  ARTHUR,  Purdue  University. 

THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  STOCK  BREEDING.  By  W.  H.  BREWER,  of  Yale 
University. 

PLANT  PATHOLOGY.  By  B.  T.  GALLOWAY  and  associates,  of  U.  S.  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture. 

THE  POME  FRUITS  (Apples,  Pears,  Quinces).    By  L.  H.  BAILEY. 


THE   GARDEN-CRAFT   SERIES 

Comprises  practical  handbooks  for  the  horticultur- 
ist, explaining  and  illustrating  in  detail  the  various 
important  methods  which  experience  has  demon- 
strated to  be  the  most  satisfactory.  They  may  be 
called  manuals  of  practice,  and  though  all  are  pre- 
pared by  Professor  BAILEY,  of  Cornell  University, 
they  include  the  opinions  and  methods  of  success- 
ful specialists  in  many  lines,  thus  combining  the 
results  of  the  observations  and  experiences  of  nu- 
merous students  in  this  and  other  lands.  They  are 
written  in  the  clear,  strong,  concise  English  and  in 
the  entertaining  style  which  characterize  the  author. 
The  volumes  are  compact,  uniform  in  style,  clearly 
printed,  and  illustrated  as  the  subject  demands. 
They  are  of  convenient  shape  for  the  pocket,  and 
are  substantially  bound  in  flexible  green  cloth. 

THE   HORTICULTURIST'S   RULE   BOOK.     By  L.   H.  BAILEY.    312  pp. 

75  cents. 

THE  NURSERY-BOOK.     By  L.  H.  BAILEY.    365  pp.    152  illustrations.    $1. 
PLANT-BREEDING.     By  L.  H.  BAILEY.     293  pp.     20  illustrations.     $1.00. 
THE  FORCING-BOOK.     By  L.  H.  BAILEY.     266  pp.    88  illustrations.    $1.00. 
GARDEN-MAKING.     By  L.  H.  BAILEY.    417pp.     256  illustrations.    $1.00. 
THE  PRUNING-BOOK.    By  L.  H.  BAILEY.   545  pp.   331  illustrations.    $1.50. 

THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN-BOOK.     By  C.  E.  HUNN  and  L.  H.  BAILEY. 
250  DD.     Many  marginal  cuts.    $1.00. 


WORKS    Bf    PROFESSOR     BAILEY 

EVOLUTION    OF    OUR    NA- 

TIVE     FRUITS.       By    L.    H.    BAILEY,    Pro- 

fessor  of   Horticulture  in  the  Cornell  University. 

472    PACES  -125     ILLUSTRATIONS  —  92.00 

In  this  entertaining  volume,  the  origin  and  de- 
velopment of  the  fruits  peculiar  to  North  America 
are  inquired  into,  and  the  personality  of  those  horti- 
cultural pioneers  whose  almost  forgotten  labors 
have  given  us  our  most  valuable  fruits  is  touched 
upon.  There  has  been  careful  research  into  the 
history  of  the  various  fruits,  including  inspection 
of  the  records  of  the  great  European  botanists  who 
have  given  attention  to  American  economic  botany. 
The  conclusions  reached,  the  information  presented, 
and  the  suggestions  as  to  future  developments,  can- 
not but  be  valuable  to  any  thoughtful  fruit-grower, 
while  the  terse  style  of  the  author  is  at  its  best  in 
his  treatment  of  the  subject. 

THE  EVOLUTION  OF  OUR  NATIVE  FRUITS  discusses  The  Rise  of 
the  American  Grape  (North  America  a  Natural  Vineland,  Attempts 
to  Cultivate  the  European  Grape,  The  Experiments  of  the  Dufours, 
The  Branch  of  Promise,  John  Adlum  and  the  Catawba,  Rise  of 
Commercial  Viticulture,  Why  Did  the  Early  Vine  Experiments  Fail  ? 
Synopsis  of  the  American  Grapes) ;  The  Strange  History  of  the  Mul- 
berries (The  Early  Silk  Industry,  The  "Multicaulis  Craze,");  Evolu- 
tion of  American  Plums  and  Cherrios  (Native  Plums  in  General, 
The  Chickasaw,  Hortulana,  Marianna  and  Beach  Plum  Groups, 
Pacific  Coast  Plum,  Various  Other  Types  of  Plums,  Nat<ve  Cherries, 
Dwarf  Cherry  Group) ;  Native  Apples  (Indigenous  Species,  Amelio- 
ration has  begun);  Origin  of  American  Raspberry-growing  (Early 
American  History,  Present  Types,  Outlying  Types) ;  Evolution  of 
Blackberry  and  Dewberry  Culture  (The  High-bush  Blackberry  and 
Its  Kin,  The  Dewberries,  Botanical  Names);  Various  Types  of 
Berry-like  Fruits  (The  Gooseberry,  Native  Currants,  Juneberry, 
Buffalo  Berry,  Elderberry,  High-bush  Cranberry,  Cranberry,  Straw- 
berry); Various  Types  of  Tree  Fruits  (Persimmon,  Custard -Apple 
Tribe,  Thorn-Apples,  Nut-Fruits) ;  General  Remarks  on  the  Improve- 
ment of  our  Native  Fruits  (What  Has  Been  Done,  What  Probably 
Should  Be  Done). 


T 


WORKS    BY  PROFESSOR    BAILEY 

HE  SURVIVAL  OF  THE  UNLIKE: 

A  Collection  of  Evolution  Essays  Suggested 
by  the  Study  of  Domestic  Plants.    By  L.  H. 

BAILEY,    Professor  of    Horticulture   in   the  Cornell 
University. 

FOURTH  EDITION— 515    PACES  —  2Z    ILLUSTRATIONS  — 82.0O 

To  those  interested  in  the  underlying  philosophy 
of  plant  life,  this  volume,  written  in  a  most  enter- 
taining style,  and  fully  illustrated,  will  prove  wel- 
come. It  treats  of  the  modification  of  plants  under 
cultivation  upon  the  evolution  theory,  and  its  atti- 
tude on  this  interesting  subject  is  characterized 
by  the  author's  well-known  originality  and  inde- 
pendence of  thought.  Incidentally,  there  is  stated 
much  that  will  be  valuable  and  suggestive  to  the 
working  horticulturist,  as  well  as  to  the  man  or 
woman  impelled  by  a  love  of  nature  to  horticul- 
tural pursuits.  It  may  well  be  called,  indeed,  a 
philosophy  of  horticulture,  in  which  all  interested 
may  find  inspiration  and  instruction. 

THE  SURVIVAL,  OF  THE  UNLIKE  comprises  thirty  essays  touching 
upon  The  General  Fact  and  Philosophy  of  Evolution  (The  Plant 
Individual,  Experimental  Evolution,  Coxey's  Army  and  the  Russian 
Thistle,  Recent  Progress,  etc.);  Expounding  the  Fact  and  Causes  of 
Variation  (The  Supposed  Correlations  of  Quality  in  Fruits,  Natural 
History  of  Synonyms,  Reflective  Impressions,  Relation  of  Seed- 
bearing  to  Cultivation,  Variation  after  Birth,  Relation  between 
American  and  Eastern  Asian  Fruits,  Horticultural  Geography,  Prob- 
lems of  Climate  and  Plants,  American  Fruits,  Acclimatization,  Sex 
in  Fruits,  Novelties,  Promising  Varietie3,  etc.);  and  Tracing  the 
Evolution  of  Particular  Types  of  Plants  (the  Cultivated  Strawberry, 
Battle  of  the  Plums,  Grapes,  Progress  of  the  Carnation.  Petunia. 
The  Garden  Tomato,  etc.)- 


WORKS    BY    PROFESSOR    BAILEY 

ESSONS  WITH  PLANTS:  Sugges- 
tions for  Seeing  and  Interpreting  Some  of 
the  Common  Forms  of  Vegetation.  By  L. 

H.  BAILEY,  Professor  of  Horticulture  in  the  Cornell 
University,  with  delineations  from  nature  by  W.  S. 
HOLDSWORTH,  of  the  Agricultural  College  of 
Michigan. 

SECOND  EDITION— 491  PAGES— 446  ILLUSTRATIONS— 1  2  MO- 
CLOTH -$  T.I  0  NET 

There  are  two  ways  of  looking  at  nature.  The 
old  way,  which  you  have  found  so  unsatisfactory, 
was  to  classify  everything — to  consider  leaves,  roots, 
and  whole  plants  as  formal  herbarium  specimens, 
forgetting  that  each  had  its  own  story  of  growth 
and  development,  struggle  and  success,  to  tell. 
Nothing  stifles  a  natural  love  for  plants  more  effect- 
ually than  that  old  way. 

The  new  way  is  to  watch  the  life  of  every  grow- 
ing thing,  to  look  upon  each  plant  as  a  living 
creature,  whose  life  is  a  story  as  fascinating  as  the 
story  of  any  favorite  hero.  "Lessons  with  Plants" 
.is  a  book  of  stories,  or  rather,  a  book  of  plays,  for 
we  can  see  each  chapter  acted  out  if  we  take  the 
trouble  to  look  at  the  actors. 

"  I  have  spent  some  time  in  most  delightful  examination  of  it,  and  the 
longer  I  look,  the  better  I  like  it.  I  find  it  not  only  full  of  interest,  but 
eminently  suggestive.  I  know  of  no  book  which  begins  to  do  so  much  to 
open  the  eyes  of  the  student —whether  pupil  or  teacher  — to  the  wealth  of 
meaning  contained  in  simple  plant  forms.  Above  all  else,  it  seems  to  be 
full  of  suggestions  that  help  one  to  learn  the  language  of  plants,  so  they 
may  talk  to  him."—  DARWIN  L.  BAUDWELL,  Superintendent  of  Schools,  King* 
hainton. 

"It  is  an  admirable  book,  and  cannot  fail  both  to  awaken  interest  in 
the  subject,  and  to  serve  as  a  helpful  and  reliable  guide  to  young  students 
of  plant  life.  It  will,  I  think,  fill  an  important  place  in  secondary  schools, 
and  comes  at  an  opportune  time,  when  helps  of  this  kind  are  needed  and 
eagerly  sought."— Professor  V.  M.  SPALDINU,  University  of  Michigan. 

FIRST    LESSONS    WITH    PLANTS 

An  Abridgement  of  the  above.  117  pages — 116  illustra- 
tions— 40  cents  net. 


WORKS   BY   PROFESSOR   BAILEY 


B 


OTANY :  An  Elementary  Text  for  Schools. 

By  L.  H.  BAILEY. 

366    PACES-500    ILLUSTRATIONS -S  1 . 1  O    NET 


"This  book  is  made  for  the  pupil:  'Lessons  With  Plants' 
was  made  to  supplement  the  work  of  the  teacher."  This  is  the 
opening  sentence  of  the  preface,  showing  that  the  book  is  a 
companion  to  "Lessons  With  Plants,"  which  has  now  become  a 
standard  teacher's  book.  The  present  book  is  the  handsomest 
elementary  botanical  text-book  yet  made.  The  illustrations 
illustrate.  They  are  artistic.  The  old  formal  and  unnatural 
Botany  is  being  rapidly  outgrown.  The  book  disparages  mere 
laboratory  work  of  the  old  kind:  the  pupil  is  taught  to  see  things 
as  they  grow  and  behave.  The  pupil  who  goes  through  this  book 
will  understand  the  meaning  of  the  plants  which  he  sees  day 
by  day.  It  is  a  revolt  frqm  the  dry-as-dust  teaching  of  botany. 
It  cares  little  for  science  for  science'  sake,  but  its  point  of  view 
is  nature-study  in  its  best  sense.  The  book  is  divided  into  four 
parts,  any  or  all  of  which  may  be  used  in  the  school:  the  plant 
itself;  the  plant  in  its  environment;  histology,  or  the  minute 
structure  of  plants;  the  kinds  of  plants  (with  a  key,  and  de- 
scriptions of  .300  common  species).  The  introduction  contains 
advico  to  teachers.  The  book  is  brand  new  from  start  to 
finish. 

"An  exceedingly  attractive  text-book." — Educational  Review. 
"It  is  a  school  book  of  the  modern  methods."— The  Dial. 

"It  would  be  hard   to   find   a  better  manual   for  schools  or  for  indi 
vidual  use."— The  Outlook. 


THE   MACMILLAN   COMPANY 

No.  86  Fifth  Avenue  NEW  YORK 


T 


WORKS    BY    PROFESSOR     BAILEY 

HE  CYCLOPEDIA  OF  AMERICAN 
HORTICULTURE  :   By  L.  H.  BAILEY,  of 

Cornell  University,  assisted  by  WILHELM  MILLER, 
and  many  expert  cultivators  and  botanists. 

4  VOLS.—  OVER    2800     ORIGINAL   ENGRAVINGS  -  CLOTH  —  OCTAVO 
820.00    NET    PER    SET.      HALF    MOROCCO,    $32. OO    NET    PER    SE.T 

This  great  work  comprises  directions  for  the  cul- 
tivation of  horticultural  crops  and  original  descrip- 
tions of  all  the  species  of  fruits,  vegetables  flowers 
and  ornamental  plants  known  to  be  in  the  market  in 
the  United  States  and  Canada.  "It  has  the  unique 
distinction  of  presenting  for  the  first  time,  in  a  care- 
fully arranged  and  perfectly  accessible  form,  the  best 
knowledge  of  the  best  specialists  in  America  upon 
gardening,  fruit-growing,  vegetable  culture,  forestry, 
and  the  like,  as  well  as  exact  botanical  information. 
.  The  contributors  are  eminent  cultivators  or 
specialists,  and  the  arrangement  is  very  systematic, 
clear  and  convenient  for  ready  reference." 


"We  have  here  a  work  which  every  ambitious  gardener  will  wish  to  place 
on  his  shelf  beside  his  Nicholson  and  his  London,  and  for  such  users  of  it  ;i 
too  advanced  nomenclature  would  have  been  confusing  to  the  last  degree. 
With  the  safe  names  here  given,  there  is  little  liability  to  serious  perplexity. 
There  is  a  growing  impatience  with  much  of  the  controversy  concerning 
revision  of  names  of  organisms,  whether  of  plants  or  animals.  Those  in- 
vestigators who  are  busied  with  the  ecological  aspects  of  organisms,  and 
also  those  who  are  chiefly  concerned  with  the  apolication  of  plants  to  the 
arts  of  agriculture,  horticulture,  and  so  on,  care  for  the  names  of  organisms 
under  examination  only  so  far  as  these  aid  in  recognition  and  identification. 
To  introduce  unnecessary  confusion  is  a  serious  blunder.  Professor  Bailey 
has  avoided  the  risk  of  confusion.  In  short,  in  range,  treatment  and  edit- 
ing, the  Cyclopedia  appears  to  be  emphatically  useful  ;  .  .  .  a  work  worthy 
of  ranking  by  the  side  of  the  Century  Dictionary." — The  Nation. 

This   work    is    sold   only  by    subscription,  and    terms    and 
further  information  may  be  had  of  the  publishers. 


THE    MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

No.  66   Fifth  Avenue  NEW    YORK 


YB 


678997 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


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